Diary of A Tour in Greece, Turkey, Egypt, and The Holy Land/Volume 2

by Mary Georgiana Emma Seymour Dawson Damer

DIARY
OF
A TOUR
IN
GREECE, TURKEY, EGYPT,
AND
THE HOLY LAND.

BY
THE

HON. MRS. G. L. DAWSON DAMER.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER,
GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1841.

CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME.

• CHAPTER I.

Pilgrimage to Bethlehem—An Arab funeral—The Wilderness —The grotto—David's tomb—Prince Pückler Muskau —Jewish masonry—Pool of Bethesda—Armenian convent —Bazaar of Jerusalem—A disagreeable mistake 1

• CHAPTER II.

Village of Bethany—Tomb of Lazarus—View of the Dead Sea—Accounts of Acre—Termination of the Rhamazan— Our Doctor in great request—Want of medical attendance —The Burying Ground—Visit to Mount Calvary—Glorious sunset—Laziness of the Jews—Leave Jerusalem 21

• CHAPTER III.

Our deaf and dumb guide—The country about Jerusalem— Ramla—Arrival at the Latin convent—Illness of the superior—A sociable monk—Delightful garden—Esdoud —One of Mehemet Ali's messengers — Uncomfortable quarters, and troublesome visitors—Dummy's good qualities —Splendid appearance of the sky—Our lodgings at Gaza — The inspector of quarantine, and his adventures 43

• CHAPTER IV.

A visit from the Governor of Gaza, and his suite—Our return visit—The Governor's stud—His harem—The gates of Gaza—Singular conveyance—Our camel—Travelling disasters —Uncomfortable lodgings, and unpleasant intelligence —At home in the desert 65

• CHAPTER V.

Appearance of the Desert—Fresh vegetables—An Arabic lesson—Our bivouac—Jewish feast of Tents—Camel's milk—Heat of the sun—A skirmish which is threatened with disagreeable consequences—Desert fare—Aerolites— Symptoms of discord 87

• CHAPTER VI.

Fog and cold—The necessity of discipline—Marks of a wild animal—The Philistines and the Ishmaelites—Our employments —Meeting a caravan—Inconvenience of watering the camels—Beautiful situation of our encampment— A solitary robber—Wild partridges—We approach the Red Sea—Our impressions and reflections—Christmas-day in the Desert

• CHAPTER VII.

Journey to Suez—The British hotel—Mahomedan pilgrims —Egyptian plagues—An Arab marriage—The Consular agent — English news—The town of Suez—Hadjis— Tedious journey—Deep excavation—Hyenas 120

• CHAPTER VIII.

Journey to Cairo continued—English inn in the Desert— Divine worship—Pilgrims in want of water—Donkey chairs—First view of Cairo—Impressions on entering the city—Singular petrifactions—Mr. Waghorn—Mehemet Ali's resources — Cairo donkey-boys and donkeys — Egyptian mules—Mosque of the Sultan Hassan—The citadel—Massacre of the Mamelukes—Court of Yousouff —New mosque—New palace of the viceroy—Punishments — Beautiful garden—Egyptian necromancy — A wedding 135

• CHAPTER IX.

Expedition to Boulac—Nile boats—First view of the Nile— Garden of Rhoda—Table d'hôte—Theatre—Visit to the tombs of the Caliphs—Mehemet Ali's sepulchre—Opening a mummy—Petrified forest—Protestant chapel at Cairo— Coptic language—Turkish repast—Almée dancing—Elegant ancient Egyptian ornament—The Mauristan—Harem of Halib Effendi—Circassian slave—Princess Nazly— European physicians at Cairo

• CHAPTER X.

Cross the Nile—Giza—Ascent of a pyramid—Monument of Cheops—The king's chamber—English inscriptions—The tomb of Numbers—Visit to the Sphinxes—Sacrilegious fuel—Pyramids of Dashour—Bird mummy-pits—The Reis of Saqquarda—Strange contents of a packet from England 182

• CHAPTER XI.

The site of Memphis—Statue of Sesostris—Real antiquities— Rich soil—The inhabitants—Vultures—Fresh Arrivals— Visit to a Turkish bath—The Princess's palace—Shami Bey's harem—The fair Saramé—Our entertainment— Feasting—Dancing and singing 194

• CHAPTER XII.

Boulac—Joseph's well—Stores of grain—A rhinoceros—Embark on board a Nile boat—Discomforts of the voyage— A strange meeting—Arrival at the gates of Alexandria— Difficulties in getting admitted — Mehemet Ali — His palace 213

• CHAPTER XIII.

Pompey's pillar—The Pacha and the Sultan's portrait—A ball at Alexandria—Seyd Bey's palace—Singular bequest —Sir M. M—— and the Pacha—The garden of the palace —The fleet off Alexandria—Preparations for departure, and reflections on returning to England

• CHAPTER XIV.

Effects of a double rainbow—Security from lightning in a steam-boat — Unfavourable weather — Fearful storm— Its effect on the passengers—Alarm—Weather improves —A general thanksgiving—Arrival at Malta—In quarantine 242

• APPENDIX I.

Thoughts on the Question of the East 257

• APPENDIX II.

The Talmud 289

• APPENDIX III.

Coming of the Messiah 291

• APPENDIX IV.

Return of the Jews to the Holy Land 295