Index:Whymper - Scrambles amongst the Alps.djvu
CONTENTS 1860 CHAPTER I. BEACHY HEAD—DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME—MULES—SCRAMBLING ALONE—THE WEISSHORN—ST. BERNARD—RASCALLY GUIDE—A VILLAGE CONCERT—STORM ON THE COL DE LAUTARET
Pages 1-13
CHAPTER II. THE VALLEYS OF DAUPHINÉ—THE PEAKS OF DAUPHINÉ—MISTAKES IN THEIR IDENTIFICATION—EARLY ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND MONT PELVOUX—INTRODUCTION TO MONSIEUR REYNAUD—THE "ASSOCIATION ALIMENTAIRE" OF GRENOBLE—MEETING WITH MACDONALD—CROSS THE COL DE LAUTARET—NATIONAL SENTIMENTS—WE ENGAGE A GUIDE—START FOR PELVOUX—PASS THE CAVERN OF THE VAUDOIS—MASSACRE OF THE VAUDOIS—FIRST NIGHT OUT—WE ARE REPULSED—ARRIVAL OF MACDONALD—THIRD NIGHT OUT—TORRENTS ON FIRE—FALLING ROCKS—ASCENT OF THE PELVOUX—THE PYRAMID—VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—WE DISCOVER THE POINTE DES ECRINS—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—ON FLEAS—EN ROUTE FOR MONTE VISO—VALUE OF THE PASSPORT SYSTEM—DESERTERS—CAMP ON AN ANT-HILL—ST. VERAN—PRIMITIVE MANNERS—NATURAL PILLARS—ARRIVE AT BRIANCON
14-45 CHAPTER III. DILIGENCES—A STEEP RAILROAD—THE CENTRE RAIL—DESCRIPTION OF THE FELL RAILROAD—CENTRE RAIL BREAK—ADVANTAGES AND DEFECTS—HISTORY OF THE MONT CENIS TUNNEL—THE "PERFORATRICES"—TEMPERATURE OF THE TUNNEL—THE ADVANCED GALLERY—SYSTEM OF ATTACK—THE COST—ANNUAL PROGRESS—VENTILATION—COMPARISONS
46-79 CHAPTER IV. INTRODUCTION TO JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL—SUPERSTITIONS OF THE NATIVES IN REGARD TO THE MATTERHORN—RIDGES OF THE MATTERHORN—EARLIEST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MOUNTAIN—ATTEMPT BY THE MESSRS. PARKER—ATTEMPT BY MESSRS. HAWKINS AND TYNDALL—ARRIVE AT BREIL—UNWILLINGNESS OF THE GUIDES TO HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE MATTERHORN—THE CARRELS ENDEAVOUR TO CUT US OUT—THE 'GREAT STAIRCASE'—WE DECIDE TO CAMP ON THE COL DU LION—GREAT EXCITEMENT FROM FALLING STONES—LIGHT AND SHADE—THE 'CHIMNEY'—DEFEATED—A COOL PROCEEDING
80-95 1862 CHAPTER V. MR. KENNEDY'S WINTER ATTEMPT—BENNEN REFUSES TO START AGAIN—THE THEODULE PASS—MEYNET, THE HUNCHBACK OF BREIL—ON ALPINE TENTS—MACDONALD AND I START FOR THE MATTERHORN—NARROW ESCAPE OF KRONIG—VIOLENT WIND TURNS US BACK—ENGAGE CARREL AND PESSION AND START AGAIN—THE 'GREAT TOWER'—PESSION BECOMES ILL AND WE ARE OBLIGED TO RETURN—BAD WEATHER—SCRAMBLE ALONE ON THE MATTERHORN—PIONEERS OF VEGETATION—VIEW FROM THE TENT—A SOLITARY BIVOUAC—MONTE VISO SEEN BY MOONLIGHT AT NINETY-EIGHT MILES' DISTANCE—ON AIDS TO CLIMBERS—CLIMBING CLAW—FIND A NEW PLACE FOR THE TENT—DIFFICULTY AND DANGER—ON FOOLHARDINESS—I ATTAIN A GREATER ALTITUDE ALONE THAN HAD BEEN REACHED BEFORE, AND NEARLY COME TO GRIEF—MY FOURTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN—DEFEATED AGAIN BY WEATHER—THE CARRELS GO MARMOT-HUNTING, AND WE START FOR A FIFTH ATTEMPT—DEFEATED BY NATURAL DIFFICULTIES—TYNDALL ARRIVES AND CARRIES OFF THE CARRELS—A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN—TYNDALL IS REPULSED-CONFLAGRATION IN DAUPHINÉ
96-130 1863 CHAPTER VI. THE DOUANE—"BUT WHAT IS THIS?"—DIFFICULTIES WITH MY LADDER—EXPLANATION OF TYNDALL'S REPULSE—ROMAN (?) AQUEDUCT IN THE VAL TOURNANCHE—ASCEND THE CIMES BLANCHES—WE DECEIVE A GOAT—NEW PASS TO ZERMATT (BREUILJOCH)—AQUEOUS AND GLACIER EROSION-GLACIER VERSUS ROCKS—RESULTING FORMS (ROCHES MOUTONNÉES)—MOTION OF GLACIERS PREVENTS THE ICE FROM BEING FORCED INTO HOLLOWS—PROJECTIONS ALONE SUFFER—CONSEQUENT FLATTENING OF ROCK-SURFACES—ROCHES NIVELEES—STRIATIONS AND THEIR MEANING—VIOLENT GLACIAL ACTION IN ICELAND—ROTUNDITY OF ROCHES MOUTONNEES PROVES A SMALL AMOUNT OF EROSION—ON LEE-SIDES—THE EROSIVE POWER OF A GLACIER CONSTANTLY DIMINISHES—CONSERVATION OF ROCKS—SEILER'S DISINTERESTEDNESS—THE MATTERHORN CLIFFS—EXTRAORDINARY ACCIDENT TO A CHAMOIS—COL DE VALPELLINE—THE MASTER OF PRERAYEN—ATTEMPT TO ASCEND DENT D'ERIN (D'HERENS)—THE VA CORNÈRE PASS—ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN—SPLENDID VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—ON PANORAMIC VIEWS—GOUFFRE DES BUSSERAILLES—AN ENTERPRISING INNKEEPER
131-168
CHAPTER VII. EXTREMES MEET—THUNDER AND LIGHTNING—ECHOES OF THUNDER—GREAT ROCK—FALLS DURING THE NIGHT—DEFEATED BY THE WEATHER—MYSTERIOUS MISTS
169-178 1864 CHAPTER VIII. MICHEL CROZ—COL DE VALLOIRES—THE AIGUILLES D'ARVE—WE MAKE A PASS BETWEEN THEM—COL DE MARTIGNARE—ASCENT OF THE AIG. DE LA SAUSSE—THE MEIJE—BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJE—MELCHIOR ANDEREGG—LA GRAVE—THE BRÈCHE IS WON—THE VALLON DES ETANÇONS
179-200 CHAPTER IX. BIVOUAC ON THE GLACIER DE LA BONNE PIERRE—DISSOLVING VIEWS—DRYNESS OF THE AIR—TOPOGRAPHY OF CENTRAL DAUPHINE ALPS—FIRST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE ECRINS—A MIGHTY AVALANCHE—OUR ASCENT OF THE FINAL PEAK—ON SPLINTERS FROM SUMMITS—LE JEU NE VAUT PAS LA CHANDELLE—SHATTERED RIDGE—ALMER'S LEAP—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—A WARNING
201-221 CHAPTER X. CHALETS OF ENTRAIGUES—ARRIVAL OF REYNAUD—ON SNOW COULOIRS—SUMMIT OF THE COL—EXCITING DESCENT—REYNAUD COMES OVER THE SCHRUND—THE LAST OF DAUPHINÉ
222-231 CHAPTER XI. MAPS OF MONT BLANC—MR. ADAMS-REILLY—OUR COMPACT—THE PEAKS OF THE MONT BLANC RANGE—ACROSS THE COL DE TRIOLET—A MINIATURE ASCENT—REILLY ADVOCATES PATIENCE—BIVOUAC ON MONT SUC—ASCENT OF AIG. DE TRÉLATÊTE—THE MORAINE OF THE MIAGE—ON MORAINES IN GENERAL—ERRONEOUS VIEWS RESPECTING THEM—MORAINES IN GREENLAND—OUR FIRST ATTEMPT TO ASCEND AIG. D'ARGENTIÈRE—A CONCEALED CAVERN—SUCCESS AT LAST—MR. REILLY'S MAP
232-252
CHAPTER XII. SWISS MENDICANTS—NIGHT ON THE ARPITETTA ALP—A PERILOUS PATH—ICE-AVALANCHE—SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS—CROZ DISTINGUISHES HIMSELF—THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT
253-262
1865 CHAPTER XIII. ON CHOICE OF ROUTES—REGRETS—ZINAL—ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER—EFFECTS OF SUN AND FROST—GREAT RIDGES SUFFER MOST—POINTS OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ATMOSPHERIC AND GLACIER EROSION—ABRICOLLA
263-273
CHAPTER XIV. LESLIE STEPHEN—KENNEDY'S ASCENT—ON BERGSCHRUNDS—UNWELCOME ATTENTIONS—A RACE FOR LIFE—BENIGHTED—A SURPRISE
274-280
CHAPTER XV. A LATE START AND THE RESULT—BEWILDERED—RETURN TO ABRICOLLA—CROSS COL D'HÉRENS TO ZERMATT—ASCEND THE THEODULHORN—NEW IDEAS REGARDING THE MATTERHORN—DECEPTIVENESS OF THE EAST FACE—STRATIFICATION—DIP OF THE BEDS—TRY ANOTHER ROUTE—"SAUVE QUI PEUT"—BEATEN AGAIN.
281-294
CHAPTER XVI. THE BOUQUETIN—ON CRÉTINISM AND GOÎTRE—CAUSES OF THEIR ORIGIN—POSSIBILITY OF CHECKING PROGRESS OF CRÉTINISM—THE ANCIENT GLACIER OF AOSTA AND THE MORAINES OF IVREA—RAMSAY'S EROSION THEORY—TYNDALL's THEORY—CONTRADICTIONS—CRITICISM OF THE THEORIES—CONCLUSIONS—SUMMIT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES—WE START AN AVALANCHE
295-345
CHAPTER XVII. CONFUSION OF IDEAS—A MIDNIGHT START—SUMMIT OF THE PASS—EXTRAORDINARY ICE-WALL—MANNER OF ITS DESCENT—ON ICE-AXES AND THEIR USE—ON ICE-SLOPES AND THEIR SAFETY—CRAMPONS—ARRIVAL AT CHAMOUNIX
346-352
CHAPTER XVIII. CROZ LEAVES US—CHRISTIAN ALMER—SUNSET ON THE MER DE GLACE—STRUCTURE OF GLACIERS—THE "VEINED STRUCTURE"—ORIGIN OF VEINS IN GLACIERS—ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE—ADVICE TO MOUNTAIN WALKERS—VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—STORMS COME ON—A WORTHY PORTER—THE NOBLE ATTITUDE OF CHAMOUNIX
353-365
CHAPTER XIX. THE COL DU GÉANT—THE GLACIER DE TALÈFRE—EASY WAY FROM CHAMOUNIX TO CORMAYEUR—GLISSADING—PASSES OVER THE MAIN CHAIN OF MONT BLANC
366-369
CHAPTER XX. FACILITY WITH WHICH THE RUINETTE CAN BE ASCENDED—NOBLE PANORAMA—ON CONCEALED CREVASSES—GUIDES' OBJECTION TO USE OF THE ROPE—ON THE USE AND ABUSE OF THE ROPE—ALMER DECLINES THE MATTERHORN—ENGAGE THE CARRELS—THEIR DEFECTION—THE ITALIANS STEAL A MARCH—ARRIVAL OF LORD FRANCIS DOUGLAS—MEETING WITH CROZ AND HUDSON
370-383
CHAPTER XXI. CHARLES HUDSON—CAMP ON THE EAST FACE—CROZ REPORTS FAVOURABLY—ASCENT OF THE EASTERN FACE—CROSS TO THE NORTHERN SIDE—ARRIVAL AT SUMMIT—DISCOMFITURE OF THE ITALIANS—ASTONISHMENT AT BREIL—MARVELLOUS PANORAMA
384-394
CHAPTER XXII. ORDER OF THE DESCENT—A FRIGHTFUL AVALANCHE—HADOW SLIPS—DEATH OF CROZ, HADOW, HUDSON, AND LORD F. DOUGLAS—TERROR OF THE TAUGWALDERS—THE BROKEN ROPE—AN APPARITION—AN INFAMOUS PROPOSITION—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—SEARCH FOR AND RECOVERY OF THE BODIES—OFFICIAL EXAMINATION—THE END
395-408
APPENDIX.
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