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265; effect of lamaism on, 282; prefer Russians to Chinese, 285; not China, but civilization is driving them to the wall, 296, 297.

Mongols, of the author's Mongolian expedition, 257, 258, 265.

Mongols, Northern, 268, 270.

Monks, of Burma, their Buddhism, 282.

Morrison, George B., 237, 238.

Moscow, 236.

Namti River, 18, 21 ; valley of, 15, 21.

Nan River, 165.

Nanking, as the possible capital of China, 229; 159, 226.

Nankow, 233, 234.

Nankow, Pass of, 228.

Napoleon III, 8.

Ni T'ou, 111, 121.

Nicholas II, Tsar, 306.

Nicolai, 292, 295.

Ning-yüan-fu, 33, 34, 37, 71, 74, 75, 80-82, 83, 85, 86, 178.

Omei (town), and its pilgrims, 185; its shops, 186.

Omei, Mount. See Omei Shan.

Omei River, 184, 187.

Omei Shan, the holy of holies, 180;

ascent of, 187 ff.; myths and legends concerning, 188, 189; monasteries on, 190, 193, 194; memories of a three days' stay on the summit of, 194-199; wherein its charm consists, 198,

199, 280.

Opium habit, among coolies, 107, 108; rare in Mongolia, 255.

Opium trade, in Yunnan, 25, 26;

Manchu government adverse

to, 26.

Pai-chang, hiring a pony at, 163-165.

Pai-la shu (white- wax tree), 73.

Pailou (memorial arch), 104, 105.

Palm-leaf hats, 19, 20.

Pao-an-ying, 95.

Paper, substitute for glass in West China, 40.

Passports, lack of, n; not required within Chinese Empire, 212; for Mongolia, 237.

Pechihli, Gulf of, 228.

Peking, arrival at, 228; situation

of, 228, 229; the Tartar Wall, 229 ff.; the divers cities of, 230; viewed from the Wall, 231, 232; the American Legation, 232; the streets, 232 ; to the average European its history begins in 1900, 233; preparing for Mongolian journey at, 237 ff.; 24,

163, 176, 222, 223, 280.

Peking cart, an instrument of torture, 243, 244.

Peking railway, the. See Lu-Han R.R.

People's Assembly, the, 230.

Photographing, in Szechuan, 156.

Pien-ma boundary question, 29, 30.

Pilgrim to Lhasa, the, 112.

Pilgrims to Omei Shan, 185, 187, 189, 193. 195.

P'ing-i-p'u, 98, 99.

Polo, Marco, 74, 81, 124, 171, 172, 230, 244, 248, 250.

Pongkiong, 260.

Ponies, Yunnanese, 34, 35.

Poppies, not now cultivated in

Yunnan, 26; banished from

Chien Ch'ang, 72, 94.

"Pork money," 36, 96, 97.

Post-routes, between Kalgan and Siberian frontier, 245, 246.