Index:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu

Title	The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses, with grading and special measurements, according to the most approved & up-to-date method; specially designed for self instruction
Author	Rosenfeld, Isidor
Year	1911
Publisher	The Leading Pattern Co.
Location	New York
Source	djvu
Progress	Proofread—All pages of the work proper are proofread, but not all are validated
Transclusion	Transclusion check required

Pages (key to Page Status)

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INDEX.

1. PAGE.

2. Title ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

   1

3. Preface ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

   2

4. Introduction ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

   3

5. The Grammar of Designing and Garment Cutting ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

   4–5

6. The Measure of a Woman by Proportion ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

   6

7. A Rule of Proportions ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

   6

8. How to Find the Height ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

   7

9. The System of Heights ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

   8

10. Proportional Height Scale ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    9

11. Proportional Height Scale Table ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    10

12. The Study on Width Proportions ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    11

13. The System of Width Proportions ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    13

14. A Test of Systematical Knowledge ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    13–11

15. The System of Practical Value ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    15–16

16. Proportional Measurements for Women's Garments ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    17

17. Scale Method on Drafting ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    17

18. How to Measure for a Regular Size ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    18

19. Lesson 1.

    On Drafting ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    19–20

20. Lesson 2.

    On Drafting ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    31–22

21. Lesson 3.

    A Tight-fitting Garment ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    33–24

22. Lesson 4.

    A Tight-fitting Jacket with Two Darts ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    25–26

23. Lesson 5.

    A Tight-fitting French Seam Fitting ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    27–28

24. Lesson 6.

    14-Gored Tight-fitting ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    39–30

25. Lesson 7.

    18-Gored Tight-fitting ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    31–32

26. Lesson 8.

    Half-fitting Garment ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    33–34

27. Lesson 9.

    Half-fitting French Seam, Broad Back ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    35–36

28. Lesson 10.

    Half-fitting French Seam, Narrow Back ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    37-38

29. Lesson 11.

    A Lost Dart in Front ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    39–40

30. Lesson 12.

    Half-fitting Jacket with Dart on Top ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    39–40

31. Lesson 13.

    Dressing Sack with Shawl Collar ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    41–42

32. Lesson 14.

    Eton Coats ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    43–44

33. Lesson 15.

    Eton with a Dart in Front ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    45–46

34. Lesson 16.

    Eton with a French Seam ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    45–46

35. Lesson 17.

    Eton Front with a Dart on Top ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    47–48

36. Lesson 18.

    Blouse ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    48–50

37. Lesson 19.

    Tunic Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    49–50

38. Lesson 20.

    Butterfly Sleeve Draft ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    51–52–53

39. Lesson 21.

    Kimono Sleeve in One Piece ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    52–54

40. Lesson 22.

    Butterfly with Under Arm Sleeve ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    55–56

41. Lesson 23.

    A Raglan Style Butterfly Sleeve ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    55–56

42. Lesson 24.

    To Cut a Yoke ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    57

43. Lesson 25.

    Long Half-fitting Hipless Coat ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    58–60

44. Lesson 26.

    Short Box Coat ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    61–62

45. Lesson 27.

    Double-breasted Automobile Coat ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    63–64

46. Lesson 28.

    Raglan Top Coat ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    65–66

47. Lesson 29.

    Inverness Coat ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    67–68

48. Lesson 30.

    Butterfly Sleeve Cape ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    69–70

49. Lesson 31.

    Opera Cloak ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    71–72

50. Lesson 32.

    Short Two-piece Cape ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    73–74

51. Lesson 33.

    A Circle Cape ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    74–75

52. Lesson 34.

    A Circle Cape, with Shoulder Dart ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    76–77

53. Lesson 35.

    Long Shoulder Seam Cape ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    77–78

54. PAGE.

55. Lesson 36.

    Single-breasted Riding Coat ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    79–82

56. Lesson 37.

    Cut-away Front Riding Coat ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    83–84

57. Lesson 38.

    Double-breasted Riding Coat ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    85–86

58. Lesson 39.

    A Closed Back and Closed Front ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    87–88

59. Lesson 40.

    Single-breasted Vest ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    89–90

60. Lesson 41.

    Double-breasted Vest ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    91

61. Lesson 42.

    To Draft All Kinds of Sizes ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    92–94

62. The Study of the Stout Form ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    95

63. Lesson 43.

    Box Coat' for a Stout Form ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    96–97–98

64. Lesson 44.

    To Cut Out the Pattern for the Stout ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    99

65. Lesson 45.

    Hood ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    100–101

66. Lesson 46.

    Sailor Collar ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    101–102

67. Lesson 47.

    Shield for a Sailor Collar ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    103–104

68. Lesson 48.

    Standing Collars ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    105

69. Lesson 49.

    Lap Over Collars ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    105–106

70. Lesson 50.

    Storm Collar ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    106

71. Lesson 51.

    Automobile Collar ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    107–108

72. Lesson 52.

    Flat or Dutch Collar ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    107–108

73. Lesson 54.

    First Draft on Sleeves without Fullness ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    109–110

74. Lesson 55.

    Sleeve with Some Fullness ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    111–112

75. Lesson 56.

    Sleeve with All Fullness ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    113

76. Lesson 57.

    One-piece Sleeve with Fullness on the Bottom ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    114

77. Lesson 58.

    Sleeve with Fullness on Top ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    115

78. Lesson 59.

    One-piece Dress Sleeve ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    115–116

79. Lesson 60.

    Dart Sleeve ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    117

80. Lesson 62.

    Raglan Sleeve with a Dart on Shoulder ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    118–119

81. Lesson 61.

    Raglan Sleeve ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    118–119

82. SKIRTS.

83. Lesson 63.

    Beginning Skirts ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    121–133

84. Lesson 64.

    5-gored Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    133–124

85. Lesson 65.

    7-gored Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    125–126

86. Lesson 66.

    9-gored Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    127–128

87. Lesson 67.

    11-gored Flare Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    129–130

88. Lesson 68.

    15-gored Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    131–132

89. Lesson 69.

    Empire or Girdle Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    133–134

90. Lesson 70.

    Girdle Belt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    133–134

91. Lesson 71.

    Flounce Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    135–136

92. Lesson 72.

    Circle Flounce Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    137–138

93. Lesson 73.

    Circle Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    139–140

94. Lesson 74.

    Princess Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    141–143

95. Lesson 75.

    Divided Riding Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    143–144

96. Lesson 76.

    Side Saddle Riding Skirt, Front Part ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    145–146

97. Lesson 77.

    Side Saddle, Back Part ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    145–147

98. Lesson 78.

    Bloomers, Front Part ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    148–149

99. Lesson 79.

    Bloomers, Back Part ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    148–150

100. Lesson 80.

     Riding Breeches, Front Part ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     150–151

101. Lesson 81.

     Breeches, Back Part ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     150–151

102. Lesson 82.

     Pantaloons, Front Part ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     152–153

103. Lesson 83.

     Pantaloons, Back Part ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     152–153

104. Lesson 84.

     Stout Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     154–155

105. Lesson 85.

     A Very Stout Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     154–155

106. Lesson 86.

     Skirt with Seams Allowed ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     156–157

107. Lesson 87.

     Skirt with More or Less Fullness ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     157–158

108. Proportional Stout Measurements for Women ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     159

109. Short and Stout Proportions ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     159

110. PAGE

111. MISSES' SIZES.

112. Proportional Measurements for Misses ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     160

113. Lesson 88.

     Misses' French Seam, Tight- fitting ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     161–162

114. Lesson 89.

     Misses, Half-fitting Jacket ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     163–164

115. Lesson 90.

     Misses' Short Box Coats ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     165–666

116. Lesson 91.

     Misses' Size Sleeve ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     167–168

117. Lesson 92,

     Misses' Size 5-gored Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     169–170

118. Extra Stout Proportions for Women ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     171

119. Children's Stout Measurements ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     171

120. JUNIOR SIZES.

121. Proportional Measurements for Juniors ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     173

122. Lesson 93.

     Junior Box Coat ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     173–174

123. Lesson 94.

     Juniors' Half-fitting French Seam Jackets ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     175–177

124. Lesson 95.

     Juniors' Long Capes ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     177–178

125. Lesson 96.

     A Yoke for the Box Coat ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     179–180

126. Lesson 97.

     A Junior Sleeve ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     181–182

127. Lesson 98.

     Juniors' 5-gored Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     183–184

128. Lesson 99.

     Juniors' Circle Skirts ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     185

129. CHILDREN'S SIZES.

130. Proportional Measurements for Children ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     186

131. Lesson 100.

     Child's Reefer Coat ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     187–188

132. Lesson 101.

     Child's Box Coat ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     189–190

133. Lesson 102.

     Child's French Seam Coat ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     191–193

134. Lesson 103.

     Child's Sleeve without Any Fullness ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     194

135. Lesson 104.

     Child's Short Two-piece Cape ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     195–196

136. Lesson 105.

     Child's One-piece Cape ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     117–198

137. Lesson 106.

     Child's One-piece Skirt ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     199–200

138. Lesson 107.

     Child's One-piece Sleeve, Fullness on Bottom ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     201

139. GRADING FOR ALL SIZES.

140. Interest of Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     203

141. Corrections on Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     204

142. Manual of Grading Sizes ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     204

143. Lesson 108.

     Blouse Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     205–206

144. Lesson 109.

     Box Coat Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     207–208

145. Lesson 110,

     Long Cape Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     209–210

146. Lesson 111.

     Half-fitting Jacket Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     211–212

147. Lesson 112.

     Tight-fitting Jacket Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     213–214

148. Lesson 113.

     Tight-fitted French Seam Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     215–216

149. Lesson 114.

     Two-piece Sleeve Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     217–218

150. Lesson 115.

     One-piece Sleeve Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     219

151. Lesson 116.

     Butterfly Blouse Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     220

152. Lesson 117.

     How to Grade the Sailor Collar ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     221–222

153. Lesson 118.

     Standing Collar Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     221–222

154. Lesson 119.

     Flat Collar Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     221–222

155. Lesson 120.

     5-gored Skirt Grading, Size 36 ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     223–224

156. Lesson 121.

     Misses' Blouse Grading, Size 16 ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     225–226

157. Lesson 122.

     Misses' Half-fitting Jacket Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     227–228

158. Lesson 123.

     Misses' French Seam Tight-fitting Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     229–230

159. Lesson 124.

     Misses' Sleeve Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     231

160. Lesson 125.

     Misses' Circle Skirt Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     232

161. PAGE.

162. Lesson 126.

     Misses' 5-gored Skirt Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     233–234

163. Lesson 127.

     Junior Blouse Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     235–236

164. Lesson 128.

     Junior Box Coat Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     237–238

165. Lesson 129.

     Junior Long Cape Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     239–240

166. Lesson 130.

     Junior Two-piece Sleeve Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     241

167. Lesson 131.

     Junior One-piece Sleeve Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     242

168. Lesson 132.

     Junior 5-gored Skirt Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     243

169. Lesson 133.

     Junior Circle Skirt Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     244

170. SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS.

171. The Problem of Special Garment Cutting ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     245–246

172. The Right Way of Taking Special Measurements ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     247–248

173. Lesson 137.

     First Draft on Special Measurements ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     249–250

174. Lesson 138.

     Second Draft on Special Measurements ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     251–253

175. Lesson 139.

     Third Lesson on Special Measurements ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     253

176. Lesson 140.

     Special Measurements without Seams ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     254–256

177. Study of Special Garment Cutting ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     257

178. Lesson 141.

     Special Sleeve ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     258

179. Importance of Fitting ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     259

180. SHIRT WAISTS AND DRESSES.

181. Lesson 142.

     Shirt Waist ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     261–263

182. Lesson 143.

     Shirt Waist with a Side Body ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     263–364

183. Lesson 144.

     Lining with Two Dart in Front ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     265–266

184. Lesson 145.

     Princess Dress ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     267–268

185. Lesson 146.

     To Allow Pleats on a Blouse ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     269–270

186. Lesson 147.

     Pleats on a Blouse with a Yoke ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     269–270

187. Lesson 148.

     Crinoline Cuff ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     271–272

188. Lesson 149.

     To Draft a Cuff ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     273

189. Lesson 150.

     High Standing Collar ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     274

190. Lesson 151.

     Misses' Blouse Drafting ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     275–376

191. Lesson 152.

     Junior Blouse Blouse Drafting ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     277–278

192. Lesson 153.

     Child's Princess Dress ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     279–280

193. Lesson 154.

     Child's Sleeve Drafting ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     281

194. Lesson 155.

     Grading Rules for Waists and Dresses ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     283

195. Lesson 156.

     Child's Blouse Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     283–284

196. Lesson 157.

     Child's Box Coat Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     285–286

197. Lesson 158.

     Child's Two-piece Sleeve Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     287

198. Lesson 159.

     Child's One-piece Skirt Grading ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     288

199. Lesson 160.

     Table of All Kinds of Divisions ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     289–290

200. Lesson 161.

     Systematical Bust Sketching ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     291–392

201. Lesson 162.

     Systematical Back Sketching ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     293

202. Lesson 163.

     Systematical Skirt Sketching ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     294

203. Lesson 164.

     Philosophy of Corrections ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     295-301

204. Rules to Be Remembered ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

     303