The Innocents Abroad

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The Innocents Abroad (1869)
by Mark Twain
68501The Innocents Abroad1869Mark Twain

THE

INNOCENTS ABROAD,

OR

THE NEW PILGRIMS’ PROGRESS;

BEING SOME ACCOUNT OF THE STEAMSHIP QUAKER CITY’S PLEASURE
EXCURSION TO EUROPE AND THE HOLY LAND: WITH
DESCRIPTIONS OF COUNTRIES, NATIONS,
INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES,
AS THEY APPEARED.
TO THE

A U T H O R.

WITH TWO HUNDRED AND THIRTY-FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS,

BY
MARK TWAIN,
(SAMUEL L. CLEMENS.)

(ISSUED BY SUBSCRIPTION ONLY, AND NOT FOR SALE IN THE BOOK-STORES, RESIDENTS OF ANY STATE DESIRING A COPY SHOULD ADDRESS THE PUBLISHERS, AND AN AGENT WILL CALL UPON THEM.)


HARTFORD, CONN.:
AMERICAN PUBLISHING COMPANY.
BLISS & CO., NEWARK, N. J.; R. W. BLISS & CO., TOLEDO, OHIO.
F. G. GILMAN & CO., CHICAGO. ILL.; NETTLETON & CO., CINCINNATI,
F. A. HUTCHINSON & CO., ST. LOUIS, MO.

H. H. BANCROFT AND COMPANY, SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.
1869.


Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1869, by
AMERICAN PUBLISHING CO.,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Connecticut.


To
My Most Patient Reader
and
Most Charitable Critic,
MY AGED MOTHER,
This Volume is Affectionately
Inscribed.


THE QUAKER CITY IN A STORM. (Page 62)

PREFACE.


This book is a record of a pleasure-trip. If it were a record of a solemn scientific expedition, it would have about it that gravity, that profundity, and that impressive incomprehensibility which are so proper to works of that kind, and withal so attractive. Yet notwithstanding it is only a record of a pic-nic, it has a purpose, which is to suggest to the reader how he would be likely to see Europe and the East if he looked at them with his own eyes instead of the eyes of those who traveled in those countries before him. I make small pretense of showing anyone how he ought to look at objects of interest beyond the sea—other books do that, and therefore, even if I were competent to do it, there is no need.

I offer no apologies for any departures from the usual style of travel-writing that may be charged against me—for I think I have seen with impartial eyes, and I am sure I have written at least honestly, whether wisely or not.

In this volume I have used portions of letters which I wrote for the Daily Alta California, of San Francisco, the proprietors of that journal having waived their rights and given me the necessary permission. I have also inserted portions of several letters written for the New York Tribune and the New York Herald.

THE AUTHOR.

San Francisco, 1869.

[List of Illustrations]

"List of Illustrations"

PAGE
1. The Quaker City in a Storm Frontispiece
2. Illuminated Title-Page—The Pilgrim’s Vision
3. “I’ll Pay You in Paris” 28
4. The Start 30
5. “Good Morning, Sir” 34
6. The Old Pirate 36
7. Dancing Under Difficulties 42
8. The Mock Trial 44
9. “Land, ho!” 49
10. The Capote. 52
11. Ruin and Desolation 53
12. Port of Horta, Fayal (Full Page), face page 56
13. “Sekki-Yah!” 59
14. Beautiful Stranger 64
15. Rock of Gibraltar (Full Page), face page 65
16. “Queen’s Chair” 67
17. The Oracle 70
18. The Interrogation Point 71
19. Garrison at Malabat 72
20. Entertaining an Angel 74
21. View of a Street in Tangier 77
22. Change for a Napoleon 81
23. The Consul’s Family 88
24. “Poet Lariat” 91
25. First Supper in France 95
26. Painting 96
27. Rinfging for Soap 99
28. “Wine, Sir!” 100
29. The Pilgrim 101
30. The Prisoner 103
31. Homeless France (Full Page), face page 106
32. Railroad Official in France 108
33. “Five Minutes for Refreshments.”America 109
34. “Thirty Minutes for Dinner”France 110
35. The Old Traveller 111
36. A Decided Shave 115
37. A Gas-tly Substitute 117
38. The Three Guides 119
39. “Ze Silk Magazin” 122
40. Return in War Paint 124
41. Napoleon III 126
42. Abdul Aziz 126
43. The Morgue 132
44. We took a walk 135
45. The Can-Can 136
46. Graves of Abelard and Heloise 141
47. A Pair of Canons of 13th Century 142
48. The Private Marriage 144
49. American Drinks 148
50. Royal Honors to a Yankee 150
51. The Grisette 151
52. Fountain at Versailles 154
53. Women of Genoa 161
54. Petrified Lackey 163
55. Priest and Friar 164
56. Statue of Columbus 168
57. Graves of Sixty Thousand 169
58. Roof and Spires of Cathedral at Milan (Full Page), face page 172
59. Central Door of Cathedral at Milan 173
60. Interior of Cathedral at Milan 174
61. Boyhood’s Experience 176
62. Treasures of the Cathedral 179
63. Cathedral at Milan 181
64. La Scala Theatre 184
65. Copying from Old Masters 191
66. Facial Expression 194
67. The Echo 196
68. Note Book 197
69. A Kiss for a Franc 198
70. The Fumigation 200
71. Lake Como 202
72. Garden, Lake Como (Full Page), Face Page 204
73. Social Driver 207
74. Wayside Shrine 208
75. Peace and Happiness 209
76. Castle of Count Luigi 210
77. The Wicked Brother 216
78. Disgusted Gondolier 220
79. Cathedral of St. Mark 226
80. The Peg 229
81. “Good-by" 230
82. M’sieur Gor-r-dong 234
83. Monument to the Doge 236
84. St. Mark.By the Old Masters 238
85. St. Matthew.By the Old Masters 238
86. St. Jerome.By the Old Masters 238
87. St. Sebastian.By the Old Masters 239
88. St. Unknown.By the Old Masters 239
89. Rialto Bridge 241
90. Bridge of Sighs 241
91. Florence 245
92. The Pensioner 246
93. “I Want to go Home” 248
94. The Leaning Tower 250
95. The Contrast 258
96. Italian Pastimes 263
97. Incendiary Document 264
98. A Roman of 1869 267
99. Mamertine Prison 176
100. Old Roman 178
101. Coliseum of Ancient Rome 281
102. Did not Complain 285
103. Humboldt House 286
104. Dan 288
105. Bronze Statue 289
106. Penmanship 291
107. On a Bust 293
108. Vaults of the Convent 299
109. Dried Convent Fruits 302
110. At the Store 303
111. At Home 304
112. Soothing the Pilgrims 309
113. Ascent of Mt. Vesuvius 313
114. Bay of Naples 316
115. The Mustang 319
116. Island of Capri 320
117. Blue Grotto 321
118. Vesuvius and Bay of Naples (Full Page), face page 323
119. The Descent 325
120. Ruins, Pompeii 327
121. Forum of Justice, Pompeii 330
122. House, Pompeii 335
123. Stromboli 338
124. View of the Acropolis, looking West 341
125. “Ho!” 343
126. The Assault 344
127. The Caryatides 346
128. The Parthenon (Full Page), face page 348
129. We Sidled, not Ran 350
130. Ancient Acropolis 352
131. Tail Piece, Ruins 353
132. Queen of Greece 355
133. Palace at Athens 356
134. Street Scene in Constantinople (Full Page), face page 359
135. Goose Rancher 360
136. Mosque of St. Sophia 363
137. Turkish Mausoleum 365
138. Slandered Dogs 371
139. The Censor on Duty 374
140. Turkish Bath 378
141. Far-Away-Moses 382
142. A Fragment 385
143. Tail-Piece—A Memento 386
144. Yalta from the Emperor’s Palace 392
145. Emperor of Russia 393
146. Tinsel King 399
147. Ship Emperor 404
148. The Reception 405
149. Street Scene in Smyrna 411
150. Smyrna 413
151. An Apparent Success 416
152. Drifting to Starboard 419
153. A Spoiled Nap 420
154. Ancient Amphitheatre at Ephesus 422
155. Modern Amphitheatre at Ephesus 423
156. Ruins of Ephesus 424
157. The Journey 425
158. Graves of the Seven Sleepers 429
159. The Selection 434
160. Camping Out 436
161. Tail Piece—Arabs’ Tents 437
162. A Good Feeder 439
163. Interesting Fête 440
164. Sunday School Grapes 442
165. An Old Fogy 445
166. Race with a Camel 446
167. Temple of the Sun 447
168. Ruins of Baalbec 449
169. Hewn Stones in Quarry 450
170. Mercy 452
171. Patron Saint 453
172. Water Carrier 455
173. View of Damascus, (Full Page) face page 456
174. Street Cars of Damascus 460
175. Full Dressed Tourist 466
176. Impromptu Hospital 474
177. The Horse “Baalbec” 476
178. Oak of Bashan 479
179. Dangerous Arab 482
180. Grimes on the War-Path 483
181. Tail-Piece—Bedouin Camp 487
182. Home of Ancient Pomp 489
183. Jack 491
184. A Disappointed Audience 493
185. Fig-Tree 495
186. “Fare too High” 497
187. Syrian House 504
188. Tiberias and Sea of Galilee 506
189. The Guard 516
190. Mount Tabor 521
191. Tail-Piece—Gathering Fuel 524
192. Fountain of the Virgin 530
193. “Madonna-like Beauty” 531
194. Putnam Outdone 533
195. The Bastinado 535
196. “I Wept” 536
197. Want of Dignity 539
198. An Oriental Well 544
199. Arabs Saluting 545
200. Free Sons of the Desert 546
201. Shechem 552
202. Tail Piece—Gate of Jerusalem 556
203. Beggars in Jerusalem 559
204. Church of the Holy Seluchre 564
205. Grave of Adam 566
206. View of Jerusalem (Full Page), face page 574
207. The Wandering Jew 577
208. Mosque of Omar 581
209. An Epidemic 589
210. Charge on Bedouins 590
211. Dead Sea 594
212. Grotto of the Nativity (Full Page), face page 601
213. Jaffa (Full Page), face page 606
214. Read Elevation of Jack 610
215. Street in Alexandria 611
216. Viceroy of Egypt 612
217. Eastern Monarch 614
218. Moses S. Beach 615
219. Room No. 15 617
220. The Nilometer 620
221. Ascent of the Pyramids 622
222. High Hopes Frustrated 625
223. King’s Chamber in the Pyramid, (Full Page), face page 626
224. A Powerful Argument 627
225. Pyramids and Sphynx, (Full Page), face page 629
226. The Relic Hunter 630
227. The Mameluke’s Leap 631
228. Would not be Comforted 633
229. Tail Piece, The Traveler 634
230. Homeward Bound 635
231. Bad Coffee 639
232. Our Friends the Bermudians 640
233. Captain Duncan 641
234. Tail Piece, Finis 651

CONTENTS.



PAGE
Popular Talk of the Excursion—Programme of the Trip—Duly Ticketed for the Excursion—Defection of the Celebrities 19
Grand Preparations—An Imposing Dignitary—The European Exodus—Mr. Blucher’s Opinion—Stateroom No. 10—The Assembling of the Clans—At Sea at Last 26
“Averaging” the Passengers—“Far, far at Sea”—Tribulation among the Patriarchs—Seeking Amusement under Difficulties—Five Captains in the Ship 32
The Pilgrims Becoming Domesticated—Pilgrim Life at Sea—“Horse-Billiards”—The “Synagogue”—The Writing School—Jack’s “Journal”—The “Q. C. Club”—The Magic Lantern—State Ball on Deck—Mock Trials—Charades—Pilgrim Solemnity—Slow Music—The Executive Officer Delivers an Opinion 38
Summer in Mid-Atlantic—An Eccentric Moon—Mr. Blucher Loses Confidence—The Mystery of “Ship Time”—The Denizens of the Deep—“Land-Ho!”—The First Landing on a Foreign Shore—Sensation among the Natives—Something about the Azores Islands—Blucher’s Disastrous Dinner—The Happy Result 47
Solid Information—A Fossil Community—Curious Ways and Customs—Jesuit Humbuggery—Fantastic Pilgrimizing—Origin of the Russ Pavement—Squaring Accounts with the Fossils—At Sea Again 55
A Tempest at Night—Spain and Africa on Exhibition—Greeting a Majestic Stranger—The Pillars of Hercules—The Rock of Gibraltar—Tiresome Repetition—“The Queen’s Chair”—Serenity Conquered—Curiosities of the Secret Caverns—Personnel of Gibraltar—Some Odd Characters—A Private Frolic in Africa—Bearding a Moorish Garrison (without loss of life)—Vanity Rebuked—Disembarking in the Empire of Morocco 62
The Ancient City of Tangier, Morocco—Strange Sights—A Cradle of Antiquity—We become Wealthy—How they Rob the Mail in Africa—The Danger of being Opulent in Morocco 76
A Pilgrim in Deadly Peril—How they Mended the Clock—Moorish Punishments for Crime—Marriage Customs—Looking Several ways for Sunday—Shrewd Practice of Mohammedan Pilgrims—Reverence for Cats—Bliss of being a Consul-General 83
Fourth of July at Sea—Mediterranean Sunset—The “Oracle” is Delivered of an Opinion—Celebration Ceremonies—The Captain’s Speech—France in Sight—The Ignorant Native—In Marseilles—Another Blunder—Lost in the Great City—Found Again—A Frenchy Scene 90
Getting “Used to it”—No Soap—Bill of Fare, Table d’hôte—“An American Sir!”—A Curious Discovery—The “Pilgrim” Bird—Strange Companionship—A Grave of the Living—A Long Captivity—Some of Dumas’ Heroes—Dungeon of the Famous “Iron Mask.” 98
A Holiday Flight through France—Summer Garb of the Landscape—Abroad on the Great Plains—Peculiarities of French Cars—French Politeness—American Railway Officials—“Twenty Minutes to Dinner!”—Why there are no Accidents—The “Old Travellers”—Still on the Wing—Paris at Last—French Order and Quiet—Place of the Bastile—Seeing the Sights—A Barbarous Atrocity—Absurd Billiards 105
More Trouble—Monsieur Billfinger—Re-Christening the Frenchman—In the Clutches of a Paris Guide—The International Exposition—Fine Military Review—Glimpse of the Emperor Napoleon and the Sultan of Turkey 118
The Venerable Cathedral of Notre-Dame—Jean Sanspeur’s Addition—Treasures and Sacred Relics—The Legend of the Cross—The Morgue—The Outrageous Can-Can—Blondin Aflame—The Louvre Palace—The Great Park—Showy Pageantry—Preservation of Noted Things 130
French National Burying-Ground—Among the Great Dead—The Shrine of Disappointed Love—The Story of Abelard and Heloise—“English Spoken Here”—“American Drinks Compounded Here”—Imperial Honors to an American—The Over-estimated Grisette—Departure from Paris—A Deliberate Opinion Concerning the Comeliness of American Women 139
Versailles—Paradise Regained—A Wonderful Park—Paradise Lost—Napoleonic Strategy 153
War—The American Forces Victorious—“Home Again”—Italy in Sight—The “City of Palaces”—Beauty of the Genoese Women—The “Stub-Hunters”—Among the Palaces—Gifted Guide—Church Magnificence—“Women not Admitted”—How the Genoese Live—Massive Architecture—A Scrap of Ancient History—Graves for 60,000 159
Flying Through Italy—Marengo—First Glimpse of the Famous Cathedral—Description of some of its Wonders—A Horror Carved in Stone—An Unpleasant Adventure—A Good Man—A Sermon from the Tomb—Tons of Gold and Silver—Some More Holy Relics—Solomon’s Temple Rivalled 171
“Do You Wis zo Haut can be?”—La Scala—Petrarch and Laura—Lucrezia Borgia—Ingenious Frescoes—Ancient Roman Amphitheatre—A Clever Delusion—Distressing Billiards—The Chief Charm of European Life—An Italian Bath—Wanted: Soap—Crippled French—Mutilated English—The Most Celebrated Painting in the World—Amateur Raptures—Uninspired Critics—Anecdote—A Wonderful Echo—A Kiss for a Franc 183
Rural Italy by Rail—Fumigated, According to Law—The Sorrowing Englishman—Night by the Lake of Como—The Famous Lake—Its Scenery—Como compared with Tahoe—Meeting a Shipmate 199
The Pretty Lago di Lecco—A Carriage Drive in the Country—Astonishing Sociability in a Coachman—A Sleepy Land—Bloody Shrines—The Heart and Home of Priestcraft—A Thrilling Mediæval Romance—The Birthplace of Harlequin—Approaching Venice 207
Night in Venice—The “Gay Gondolier"—The Grand Fête by Moonlight—The Notable Sights of Venice—The Mother of the Republics Desolate 217
The Famous Gondola—The Gondola in an Unromantic Aspect—The Great Square of St. Mark and the Winged Lion—Snobs, at Home and Abroad—Sepulchres of the Great Dead—A Tilt at the “Old Masters"—A Contraband Guide—The Conspiracy—Moving Again 228
Down Through Italy by Rail—Idling in Florence—Dante and Galileo—An Ungrateful City—Dazzling Generosity—Wonderful Mosaics—The Historical Arno—Lost Again—Found Again, but no Fatted Calf Ready—The Leaning Tower of Pisa—The Ancient Duomo—The Old Original First Pendulum that Ever Swung—An Enchanting Echo—A New Holy Sepulchre—A Relic of Antiquity—A Fallen Republic—At Leghorn—At Home Again, and Satisfied, on Board the Ship—Our Vessel an Object of Grave Suspicion—Gen. Garibaldi Visited—Threats of Quarantine 244
The Works of Bankruptcy—Railway Grandeur—How to Fill an Empty Treasury—The Sumptuousness of Mother Church—Ecclesiastical Splendor—Magnificence and Misery—General Execration—More Magnificence—A Good Word for the Priests—Civita Vecchia the Dismal—Off for Rome 255
The Modern Roman on His Travels—The Grandeur of St. Peter’s—Holy Relics—Grand View from the Dome—The Holy Inquisition—Interesting Old Monkish Frauds—The Ruined Coliseum—The Coliseum in the Days of its Prime—Ancient Play-bill of a Coliseum Performance—A Roman Newspaper Criticism 1700 Years Old 266
“Butchered to Make a Roman Holiday”—The Man who Never Complained—An Exasperating Subject—Asinine Guides—The Roman Catacombs—The Saint Whose Fervor Burst his Ribs—The Miracle of the Bleeding Heart—The Legend of Ara Cœli 284
Picturesque Horrors—The Legend of Brother Thomas—Sorrow Scientifically Analyzed—A Festive Company of the Dead—The Great Vatican Museum—Artist Sins of Omission—The Rape of the Sabines—Papal Protection of Art—High Price of “Old Masters”—Improved Scripture—Scale of Rank of the Holy Personages in Rome—Scale of Honors Accorded Them—Fossilizing—Away for Naples 298
Naples—In Quarantine at Last—Annunciation—Ascent of Mount Vesuvius—A Two-Cent Community—The Black Side of Neapolitan Character—Monkish Miracles—Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued—The Stranger and the Hackman—Night View of Naples from the Mountain-side—Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued 308
Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued—Beautiful View at Dawn—Less Beautiful in the Back Streets—Ascent of Vesuvius Continued—Dwellings a Hundred Feet High—A Motley Procession—Bill of Fare for a Pedler’s Breakfast—Princely Salaries—Ascent of Vesuvius Continued—An Average of Prices—The wonderful “Blue Grotto”—Visit to Celebrated Localities in the Bay of Naples—The Poisoned “Grotto of the Dog”—A Petrified Sea of Lava—Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued—The Summit Reached—Description of the Crater—Descent of Vesuvius 315
The Buried City of Pompeii—How Dwellings Appear that have been Unoccupied for Eighteen Hundred Years—The Judgment Seat—Desolation—The Footprints of the Departed—“No Women Admitted”—Theatres, Bake-shops, Schools—Skeletons preserved by the Ashes and Cinders—The Brave Martyr to Duty—Rip Van Winkle—The Perishable Nature of Fame 327
At Sea Once More—The Pilgrims all Well—Superb Stromboli—Sicily by Moonlight—Scylla and Charybdis—The “Oracle” at Fault—Skirting the Isles of Greece—Ancient Athens—Blockaded by Quarantine and Refused Permission to Enter—Running the Blockade—A Bloodless Midnight Adventure—Turning Robbers from Necessity—Attempt to Carry the Acropolis by Storm—We Fail—Among the Glories of the Past—A World of Ruined Sculpture—A Fairy Vision—Famous Localities—Retreating in Good Order—Captured by the Guards—Travelling in Military State—Safe on Board Again 337
Modern Greece—Fallen Greatness—Sailing Through the Archipelago and the Dardanelles—Footprints of History—The First Shoddy Contractor of whom History gives any Account—Anchored Before Constantinople—Fantastic Fashions—The Ingenious Goose-Rancher—Marvelous Cripples—The Great Mosque—The Thousand and One Columns—The Grand Bazaar of Stamboul 354
Scarcity of Morals and Whiskey—Slave-Girl Market Report—Commercial Morality at a Discount—The Slandered Dogs of Constantinople—Questionable Delights of Newspaperdom in Turkey—Ingenious Italian Journalism—No More Turkish Lunches Desired—The Turkish Bath Fraud—The Narghileh Fraud—Jackplaned by a Native—The Turkish Coffee Fraud 368
Sailing Through the Bosporus and the Black Sea—“Far-Away Moses”—Melancholy Sebastopol—Hospitably Received in Russia—Pleasant English People—Desperate Fighting—Relic Hunting—How Travellers Form “Cabinets” 381
Nine Thousand Miles East—Imitation American Town in Russia—Gratitude that Came Too Late—To Visit the Autocrat of All the Russias 387
Summer Home of Royalty—Practising for the Dread Ordeal—Committee on Imperial Address—Reception by the Emperor and Family—Dresses of the Imperial Party—Concentrated Power—Counting the Spoons—At the Grand Duke’s—A Charming Villa—A Knightly Figure—The Grand Duchess—A Grand Ducal Breakfast—Baker’s Boy, the Famine-Breeder—Theatrical Monarchs a Fraud—Saved as by Fire—The Governor-General’s Visit to the Ship—Official “Style”—Aristocratic Visitors—“Munchausenizing” with Them—Closing Ceremonies 390
Return to Constantinople—We Sail for Asia—The Sailors Burlesque the Imperial Visitors—Ancient Smyrna—The “Oriental Splendor” Fraud—The “Biblical Crown of Life”—Pilgrim Prophecy-Savans—Sociable Armenian Girls—A Sweet Reminiscence—“The Camels are Coming, Ha-ha!” 403
Smyrna’s Lions—The Martyr Polycarp—The “Seven Churches”—Remains of the Six Smyrnas—Mysterious Oyster Mine—Oysters Seeking Scenery—A Millerite Tradition—A Railroad Out of its Sphere 412
Journeying Toward Ancient Ephesus—Ancient Ayassalook—The Villanous Donkey—A Fantastic Procession—Bygone Magnificence—Fragments of History—The Legend of the Seven Sleepers 418
Vandalism Prohibited—Angry Pilgrims—Approaching Holy Land!—The “Shrill Note of Preparation”—Distress About Dragomans and Transportation—The “Long Route” Adopted—In Syria—Something about Beirout—A Choice Specimen of a Greek “Ferguson”—Outfits—Hideous Horse-flesh—Pilgrim “Style”—What of Aladdin’s Lamp? 430
“Jacksonville,” in the Mountains of Lebanon—Breakfasting above a Grand Panorama—The Vanished City—The Peculiar Steed, “Jericho”—The Pilgrim’s Progress—Bible Scenes—Mount Hermon, Joshua’s Battle-Fields, etc.—The Tomb of Noah—A Most Unfortunate People 438
Patriarchal Customs—Magnificent Baalbec—Description of the Ruins—Scribbling Smiths and Joneses—Pilgrim Fidelity to the Letter of the Law—The Revered Fountain of Baalam’s Ass 445
Extracts from Note-Book—Mahomet’s Paradise and the Bible’s—Beautiful Damascus, the Oldest City on Earth—Oriental Scenes within the Curious Old City—Damascus Street Car—The Story of St. Paul—The “Street called Straight”—Mahomet’s Tomb and St. George’s—The Christian Massacre—Mohammedan Dread of Pollution—The House of Naaman—The Horrors of Leprosy 454
The Cholera by way of Variety—Hot—Another Outlandish Procession—Pen-and-Ink Photograph of “Jonesborough,” Syria—Tomb of Nimrod, the Mighty Hunter—The Stateliest Ruin of All—Stepping over the Borders of Holy Land—Bathing in the Sources of Jordan—More “Specimen”-Hunting—Ruins of Cesarea—Philippi—“On This Rock Will I Build my Church”—The People the Disciples Knew—The Noble Steed “Baalbec”—Sentimental Horse Idolatry of the Arabs 465
Dan—Bashan—Genessaret—A Notable Panorama—Smallness of Palestine—Scraps of History—Character of the Country—Bedouin Shepherds—Glimpses of the Hoary Past—Mr. Grimes’s Bedouins—A Battle-Ground of Joshua—That Soldier’s Manner of Fighting—Barak’s Battle—The Necessity of Unlearning Some Things—Desolation 478
“Jack’s Adventure”—Joseph’s Pit—The Story of Joseph—Joseph’s Magnanimity and Esau’s—The Sacred Lake of Genessaret—Enthusiasm of the Pilgrims—Why We did not Sail on Galilee—About Capernaum—Concerning the Saviour’s Brothers and Sisters—Journeying toward Magdala 488
Curious Specimens of Art and Architecture—Public Reception of the Pilgrims—Mary Magdalen’s House—Tiberias and its Queer Inhabitants—The Sacred Sea of Galilee—Galilee by Night 503
The Ancient Baths—Ye Apparition—A Distinguished Panorama—The Last Battle of the Crusades—The Story of the Lord of Kerak—Mount Tabor—What one Sees from its Top—Memory of a Wonderful Garden—The House of Deborah the Prophetess 514
Toward Nazareth—Bitten By a Camel—Grotto of the Annunciation, Nazareth—Noted Grottoes in General—Joseph’s Workshop—A Sacred Bowlder—The Fountain of the Virgin—Questionable Female Beauty—Literary Curiosities 525
The Boyhood of the Saviour—Unseemly Antics of Sober Pilgrims—Home of the Witch of Endor—Nain—Profanation—A Popular Oriental Picture—Biblical Metaphors Becoming steadily More Intelligible—The Shunem Miracle—The “Free Son of The Desert”—Ancient Jezreel—Jehu’s Achievements—Samaria and its Famous Siege 537
Curious Remnant of the Past—Shechem—The Oldest “First Family” on Earth—The Oldest Manuscript Extant—The Genuine Tomb of Joseph—Jacob’s Well—Shiloh—Camping with the Arabs—Jacob’s Ladder—More Desolation—Ramah, Beroth, the Tomb of Samuel, The Fountain of Beira—Impatience—Approaching Jerusalem—The Holy City in Sight—Noting Its Prominent Features—Domiciled Within the Sacred Walls 551
“The Joy of the Whole Earth”—Description of Jerusalem—Church of the Holy Sepulchre—The Stone of Unction—The Grave of Jesus—Graves of Nicodemus and Joseph of Arimathea—Places of the Apparition—The Finding of the There Crosses—The Legend—Monkish Impostures—The Pillar of Flagellation—The Place of a Relic—Godfrey’s Sword—“The Bonds of Christ”—“The Center of the Earth”—Place whence the Dust was taken of which Adam was Made—Grave of Adam—The Martyred Soldier—The Copper Plate that was on the Cross—The Good St. Helena—Place of the Division of the Garments—St. Dimas, the Penitent Thief—The Late Emperor Maximilian’s Contribution—Grotto wherein the Crosses were Found, and the Nails, and the Crown of Thorns—Chapel of the Mocking—Tomb of Melchizedek—Graves of Two Renowned Crusaders—The Place of the Crucifixion 558
The “Sorrowful Way”—The Legend of St. Veronica’s Handkerchief—An Illustrious Stone—House of the Wandering Jew—The Tradition of the Wanderer—Solomon’s Temple—Mosque of Omar—Moslem Traditions—“Women not Admitted”—The Fate of a Gossip—Turkish Sacred Relics—Judgment Seat of David and Saul—Genuine Precious Remains of Solomon’s Temple—Surfeited with Sights—The Pool of Siloam—The Garden of Gethsemane and Other Sacred Localities 574
Rebellion in the Camp—Charms of Nomadic Life—Dismal Rumors—En Route for Jericho and The Dead Sea—Pilgrim Strategy—Bethany and the Dwelling of Lazarus—“Bedouins!”—Ancient Jericho—Misery—The Night March—The Dead Sea—An Idea of What a “Wilderness” in Palestine is—The Holy hermits of Mars Saba—Good St. Saba—Women not Admitted—Buried from the World for all Time—Unselfish Catholic Benevolence—Gazelles—The Plain of the Shepherds—Birthplace of the Saviour, Bethlehem—Church of the Nativity—Its Hundred Holy Places—The Famous “Milk” Grotto—Tradition—Return to Jerusalem—Exhausted 586
Departure from Jerusalem—Samson—The Plain of Sharon—Arrival at Joppa—Horse of Simon the Tanner—The Long Pilgrimage Ended—Character of Palestine Scenery—The Curse 604
The Happiness of being at Sea once more—“Home” as it is in a Pleasure-Ship—“Shaking Hands” with the Vessel—Jack in Costume—His Father’s Parting Advice—Approaching Egypt—Ashore in Alexandria—A Deserved Compliment for the Donkeys—Invasion of the Lost Tribes of America—End of the Celebrated “Jaffa Colony”—Scenes in Grand Cairo—Shepheard’s Hotel Contrasted with a Certain American Hotel—Preparing for the Pyramids 609
“Recherché” Donkeys—A Wild Ride—Specimens of Egyptian Modesty—Moses in the Bulrushes—Place where the Holy Family Sojourned—Distant view of the Pyramids—A Nearer View—The Ascent—Superb View from the top of the Pyramid—“Backsheesh! Backsheesh!”—An Arab Exploit—In the Bowels of the Pyramid—Strategy—Reminiscence of “Holiday’s Hill”—Boyish Exploit—The Majestic Sphynx—Things the Author will not Tell—Grand Old Egypt 618
Going Home—A Demoralized Note-Book—A Boy’s Diary—Mere Mention of Old Spain—Departure from Cadiz—A Deserved Rebuke—The Beautiful Madeiras—Tabooed—In the Delightful Bermudas—An English Welcome—Good-by to “Our Friends the Bermudians”—Packing Trunks for Home—Our First Accident—The Long Cruise Drawing to a Close—At Home—Amen 635
Thankless Devotion—A Newspaper Valedictory—Conclusion 638
A Newspaper Valedictory 643
Conclusion 648


THE PILGRIM’S VISION.

 (not listed in original)

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This work was published before January 1, 1929, and is in the public domain worldwide because the author died at least 100 years ago.

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