I certainly, at any rate, felt the force of this truth when, on
scaling the general rock with the eye of apprehension, I made out
at a point much nearer its summit than its base the gleam of a
dizzily-perched white sea-gazing front which I knew for my
particular landmark and which promised so much that it would have
been welcome to keep even no more than half. Let me instantly say
that it kept still more than it promised, and by no means least
in the way of leaving far below it the worst of the outbreak of
restorations and breweries. There is a road at present to the
upper village, with which till recently communication was all by
rude steps cut in the rock and diminutive donkeys scrambling on
the flints; one of those fine flights of construction which the
great road-making "Latin races" take, wherever they prevail,
without advertisement or bombast; and even while I followed along
the face of the cliff its climbing consolidated ledge, I asked
myself how I could think so well of it without consistently
thinking better still of the temples of beer so obviously
destined to enrich its terminus. The perfect answer to that was
of course that the brooding tourist is never bound to be
consistent. What happier law for him than this very one,
precisely, when on at last alighting, high up in the blue air, to
stare and gasp and almost disbelieve, he embraced little by
little the beautiful truth particularly, on this occasion,
reserved for himself, and took in the stupendous picture? For
here above all had the thought and the hand come from far away--
even from ultima Thule, and yet were in possession
triumphant and acclaimed. Well, all one could say was that the
way they had felt their opportunity, the divine conditions of the
place, spoke of the advantage of some such intellectual
perspective as a remote original standpoint alone perhaps can
give. If what had finally, with infinite patience, passion,
labour, taste, got itself done there, was like some supreme
reward of an old dream of Italy, something perfect after long
delays, was it not verily in ultima Thule that the vow
would have been piously enough made and the germ tenderly enough
nursed? For a certain art of asking of Italy all she can give,
you must doubtless either be a rare raffine or a rare
genius, a sophisticated Norseman or just a Gabriele d' Annunzio.
All she can give appeared to me, assuredly, for that day and the following, gathered up and enrolled there: in the wondrous cluster and dispersal of chambers, corners, courts, galleries, arbours, arcades, long white ambulatories and vertiginous points of view. The greatest charm of all perhaps was that, thanks to the particular conditions, she seemed to abound, to overflow, in directions in which I had never yet enjoyed the chance to find her so free. The indispensable thing was therefore, in observation, in reflection, to press the opportunity hard, to recognise that as the abundance was splendid, so, by the same stroke, it was immensely suggestive. It dropped into one's lap, naturally, at the end of an hour or two, the little white flower of its formula: the brooding tourist, in other words, could only continue to brood till he had made out in a measure, as I may say, what was so wonderfully the matter with him. He was simply then in the presence, more than ever yet, of the possible poetry of the personal and social life of the south, and the fun would depend much--as occasions are fleeting--on his arriving in time, in the interest of that imagination which is his only field of sport, at adequate new notations of it. The sense of all this, his obscure and special fun in the general bravery, mixed, on the morrow, with the long, human hum of the bright, hot day and filled up the golden cup with questions and answers. The feast of St. Antony, the patron of the upper town, was the one thing in the air, and of the private beauty of the place, there on the narrow shelf, in the shining, shaded loggias and above the blue gulfs, all comers were to be made free.