154 THROUGH THE MOUNTAIN PASS OF AHUAN
much better that our progress was comparatively easy, though not so swift as the bounding speed of some gazelles that scoured over the plain in timid flight at the clatter of our horses' hoofs and the rattle of our wheels.
Various points along the plain, as well as some localities on our journey of the next two days, were marked by small hillocks or mounds. Though much worn away by the action of the elements, they occasionally showed traces of the remains of mud walls that had served to make them places of temporary refuge in the time of Turkoman forays ; though they are some- times explained, on the basis of local tradition, as mounds on which stood temples of the * Fire-worshipers. ' ^
Before another hour the barren rolling reach had gradually merged into the dip of a verdant valley near the station of Sur- khanah. This halting-place, which has supplanted the station of Chasht-khvaran, I remember the better because of the green grass in the vicinity, over which the blue eyes of a wild weed peeped laughingly. When one has long been traveling over tracts of arid waste, the smile of a flower, or the welcome waved by a nodding tree, seems cheering indeed. Nature appeared to have imparted somewhat more of sunshine to the half dozen peasants around the station ; for the tot of a boy who took charge of our horses — the Persians are born on horseback — seemed more alert than the men at most of the places, and our relay was quickly brought.
Over hill and dale our advance was made, and the road up the mountain ascent was good, nor oversteep, although I can imagine that the pass must be extremely difficult in winter.^ From time to time a huge bolder of volcanic rock stood grim guard as a sentry to watch, though not to bar, the path. Owing to a slight change in the direction of the post-route, which has
1 On these tumuli consult O'Dono- and Houtum-Schindler (Bouten in van, Merv, 1. 383, and Curzon, Persia, Chorassdn, p. 318) speaks of it as 1. 289. ' sehr schwer.' My own transits were
2 Fraser (Narrative, pp. 308-309) made in May-June, when travel was found it very hard on Dec. 27, 1821, easy.
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