This page has been validated.
RUBIES.
41

are necessary to hold the stones in their places, but you find neither invention nor beauty in these little bits of gold claws. In fact, they are frequently prepared by the gross, ready for the mounting of any stones, provided the shape of the latter be suitable. Rubies, sapphires, diamonds, garnets, and emeralds are all set in the same way, not an attempt being made to adapt the amount of gold surface or its form to the specific nature of each gem. But why should not some variety and some appropriateness of mounting be secured for all stones? How exquisite, and yet how strong, were the gold and enamel settings of precious stones in the cinque-cento time in Italy! Let those patrons who desire the rather barbaric splendour of masses of rubies gratify their taste by means of jewels in which the setting is not seen at all. But surely a fine stone is worthy of a fine and originally designed setting—proportioning the latter in form, in amount of work and surface, and also in colour, whether red, or green, or yellow gold, or enamel, to the shape and the hue of the stone to be set. And even small stones become quite beautiful when arranged with taste and judgment, in accordance with the conditions just named, and with the further condition as to collocation of individual stones in accordance with their size and shape. In pendants, and necklets, and lockets, and brooches there is room for the expression of some definite and intelligible design. The mere alternation of rubies with diamonds in rows or chequer work may, in some instances, achieve all that is needed. But a design of more definite form may often be preferable, especially where the stones at one's disposal are of differing colours and sizes. Then one may construct a suitable bit of leafage or flowerage, duly conventionalised, in accordance with the nature of the available materials, into forms of more or less geometrical severity. It should be noted that moonstones and white sapphires, in which there often lurks a faint opalescence, accord well with rubies; but it must be kept in mind that the size of the colourless stones which are to be associated with