Page:Mongolia, the Tangut country, and the solitudes of northern Tibet vol 1 (1876).djvu/146

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PILGRIMAGES.

temples of Mongolia, especially the larger and more, famous, attract wealthy pilgrims from far distances.

These pilgrimages, however, are, if we may so call them, private enterprises. Lhassa is the sacred city; hither large caravans of worshippers annually come, and, regardless of the difficulties of the long journey, esteem it a special mark of Divine favour to be allowed to fulfil their religious obligations. The Dungan insurrection put a stop to them for eleven years, but, as soon as the Chinese forces occupied Eastern Kan-su, they were renewed. Women sometimes take part in them, but, let it be said to their credit, are not such hypocrites as the men. This may be from the fact that all domestic work is done by them, and they have less time to spare for religion. The inhabitants of the border-land are also far less devout than those in the heart of the country.

The clergy, or so-called lamas,[1] are very numerous, and comprise a third, if not more, of the male population, who are thereby relieved from the payment of all taxes.[2] It is not difficult to become a lama. Parents must voluntarily dedicate their son to this profession while he is an infant, shave his head, and dress him in a red or yellow robe. This is an external mark of the future vocation of the

  1. Properly speaking, the word 'lama' is only applied by Mongols to their superior clergy; an ordinary member of that profession is called Huvarak. But the former name is much more generally used than the latter.
  2. Lamas holding important posts at the temples are entirely freed from imposts; those non-officiating are paid for by their families.