94.—TURTLE SOUP. (Fr.—Potage Tortue.) (Founded on M. Ude's Recipe.)
Ingredients.—A very small turtle, 6 slices of ham, 2 knuckles of veal, 1 large bunch of sweet herbs, 3 bay-leaves, parsley, green onions, 1 onion, 6 cloves, 3 blades of mace, ¼ lb. of fresh butter, 1 bottle of Madeira, 1 lump of sugar.
For the Quenelles à la tortue 1 lb. of veal, 1 lb. of breadcrumbs, milk, 7 eggs, cayenne, salt, spices, chopped parsley, the juice of 2 lemons.
Method.—To make this soup more easily, cut off the head of the turtle the preceding day. In the morning open the turtle by leaning heavily with a knife on the shell of the animal's back, while you cut this off all round. Turn the turtle upright on its end to drain out all the water, etc., then cut the flesh off along the spine with the knife sloping towards the bones, so as to avoid touching the gall, which sometimes may escape the eye. When all the flesh about the members is obtained, wash these clean, and let them drain. Have ready, on the fire, a large vessel full of boiling water, into which put the shells; when you perceive that they come off easily, take them out of the water, and prick them all, with those of the back, belly, fins, head, etc. Boil the back and the belly until the bones can be taken out, without, however, allowing the softer parts to be sufficiently done, as they will be boiled again in the soup. When these latter come off easily, lay them on earthen dishes singly for fear they should stick together, and put them to cool. Keep the liquor in which you have blanched the softer parts, and let the bones stew thoroughly in it, this liquor being valuable for moistening sauces.
All the flesh of the interior parts, the four legs and head, must be drawn down in the following manner: Lay the slices of ham on the bottom of a very large stewpan, over them the knuckles of veal, according to the size of the turtle; then the inside flesh of the turtle, and, over the whole, the members. Now moisten with the water in which you are boiling the shell, and draw it down thoroughly. You may now ascertain if it be perfectly done by thrusting a knife into the fleshy part of the meat. If no blood appears, it is time to moisten it again with the liquor in which the bones, etc., have been boiling. Put in a large bunch of all such sweet herbs as are adapted for the cooking of a turtle—sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3 bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a large onion stuck with 6 cloves. Let the members be thoroughly cooked, probe them to see if they are done, and if so, drain and send them to the larder, as they are to make their appearance only when the soup is absolutely completed. When the flesh is also completely cooked, strain it through a silk sieve, and make a
