Page:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus (1908).djvu/34

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INTRODUCTION.

shatter of snow form on Nanga about one day out of three towards i p.m., Bruce thinks the weather not quite as it should be. As a matter of fact, the cloud is so thin, and lasts so short a time, that it is almost immaterial to us; indeed, it is a convenient parasol.

The sun is a bit hotter than we are used to, but by wearing two hats, the one over the other (a usual dodge out here), and by putting a lump of snow in between, one keeps beautifully cool, an occasional trickle of water down one's back feeling quite pleasant.

I am as fit as I have ever been in my life; you need not feel the least anxiety.

Never have I been with better men, or climbed on easier ground, while for personal comfort nothing could be better. I expect you will get a wire before this gets home.

Whether we get up Nanga or not, the trip is well worth doing.

August 4 1895.

There is no mistake about the rarity of the air, it touches one up no end. I think the sun, also, has something to do with it.

So far we have done no great deeds, though we got to a height of 20,500 ft. on the way here.

Bruce and a Ghurka were with us. We tried to make a direct pass to this valley (Diamarai, north-west of Nanga), but, on getting to the ridge,