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INTRODUCTION.
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week, and push these treasures to the top of a long ridge of easy rock about 20,000 ft. up.

Then a third expedition ought to get them to the base of the final peak at about 23,000 ft.

Any way, we know the road—too well!

Our chances of bagging the peak look badly enough.

Collie is not keen on it, and old Hastings has managed to get a chill, so I am left with the Ghurkas.

They are first-rate climbers and good men, but cannot afford the help of a real A.C. man. Well, I shall soon be on my way home; you must not be disappointed about Nanga.

I have had some slap-up climbs, and seen cliffs and séracs such as the Alps and Caucasus cannot touch.

Nanga on this side is 12,000 ft. of rock and ice as steep and difficult as a series of Matterhorns and Mont Blancs piled one on the other.

I should have got up, I fancy, if Ragabir (a Ghiuka) had not got ill at a critical moment, and I had to see him down.

There is no doubt the air affects us when we get beyond 18,000 ft.

To-morrow I cross a high pass with the Ghurkas to the Baldarakiote Nullah. Hastings and Collie go round with the coolies and stores.

If the NW. side of Nanga is easy we may yet

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