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July 18, 1863.]
ONCE A WEEK.
109

coarse sort of india-rubber, and as this specially abounds in the white species, it has been surmised that the tenacity of the filament spun by the silk-worm may be due to this element of its food. It is rarely that the white mulberry, originally a native of Syria, is seen in England, its very inferior fruit being only fit to feed poultry; but it may be readily distinguished, even in winter, from its negro brother by its slender, upright shape, and more numerous white-barked shoots. In general it grows faster than M. nigra, its leaves are less rough, as well as more juicy, and its bark, macerated and prepared like flax, may be spun into a very fine fabric. Having become naturalised in many parts of Asia and Europe, numerous varieties have originated, some of which bear very tolerable fruit, but none perhaps are equal to the black in this respect.

Asterisk.




ITALIAN SKETCHES.

NO. I. THE BLUE GROTTO.

Intending to spend some time in seeing all that was best worth visiting in the neighbourhood of Naples, we were advised to make Sorrento our head quarters in the first place: though only a village, it can boast of excellent accommodation for travellers. The inn, known by the name of La Bella Sinena, is equal to any hotel that I have visited: it was a gentleman’s country-house, and sold by him to its present master, who spares no pains to make it an agreeable resting-place to the numerous visitors of that lovely spot.

As the road winds along the shore from Castellamare to Sorrento, elevated as it is above it, the most enchanting views of the sea succeed each other, while the whole coast to the right seemed like a succession of the most luxuriant gardens. The great affluence of beauty, so to speak, almost overpowers one. Would that the whole world could see these glorious scenes! No storm from the north or east brings coldness or winter to these blooming gardens; the breezes are all from the balmy south,—the warm scented air from the regions of palms, oranges, and myrtles,—across that beautiful sea. At each fresh turn of the road new and striking points of view disclosed themselves; seen, perhaps, to greater advantage in the soft mellow light of declining day, than in the more glaring light of the gorgeous sunshine. Long before we arrived at Sorrento, those fairy-like creatures, the fire-flies, were darting quickly by, flashing in the air like brilliant sparks endowed with the power of motion. Beautiful, most beautiful Sorrento! What words can do justice to such exquisite loveliness!

On arriving, we at once sauntered into the balcony of the inn, which was built of stone and looked out over the garden. What a scene was before us, richer far in beauty than any of fancy’s numerous creations! Below us was a wood of orange, lemon, and citron trees, which were over-laden with golden fruit and scented flowers: cypresses, gigantically tall, formed the boundary of the garden, and seemed doubly dark against the clear heaven-blue sea, which stretched itself away behind them, while boats, with white sails, floated past. I gave myself up to the full enjoyment of the scene, and could not resist going below under the tall orange trees, that I might gather the tempting fruit and lovely flowers for myself.

The following morning we were awake at five o’clock, as we were anxious to start at six, having a long day’s work before us. How glorious the morning was—the sun shining in the cloudless blue sky, the nightingales’ making the very air resound with their joyous song, and that wondrous sea causing even the very heavens to look pale in the comparison! We were to proceed on donkeys, as it was only a narrow mountain path that we were about to follow. At that early hour the warmth was delightful, and the elasticity of the air was most exhilarating: earth, sea, and air alike seemed to rejoice.

At such a moment one felt what it was to enjoy life with that degree of intensity that makes mere existence so joyous to the dwellers in southern climes. The greater part of our way lay through orange and lemon groves. The broad-leaved aloe bordered the road, in some places rising to the height of eight feet, and making a most impervious fence.

Many picturesque groups met and passed us. Women, with red cloaks turned over their heads, one or two babies slung in baskets in front of them, while their husbands led the donkeys on which they were seated; then there were peasant girls in the picturesque dress of the Sorrentines, their baskets piled up with a luxuriant mass of fruit and flowers, arranged with a degree of natural taste that made each basket a picture.

Our path led across very steep hills, the ascent occasionally so abrupt that stone steps were cut out of the rock; and it was curious to see how well our donkeys managed to climb up them, though I cannot say the proceeding was a pleasant one to the rider. In about two hours we came in sight of the little town of Massa. As we wound down the last hill we saw our boat lying at the little landing, and very shortly we were making our way to the far-famed cave. The beautiful sea extended before us, stretching away to beautiful Sicily and to the far continent of Africa, while we were leaving behind us the rocky coast of Italy, with its singular caves, hollowed out, as many think, by the unceasing action of that tideless sea. One effect produced by these caves is very curious; it can only be perceived by anyone moving close along the shore (as I have frequently done), and then, on a still day, you hear a sort of harmonious sound somewhat resembling an Eolian harp, but a fuller sound, and not so deeply melancholy: it is for ever rising into fullness and distinctness, and then again dying away. I could listen to these sounds by the hour together, so indescribably attractive are they. The boatmen, who are full of imaginative ideas, attribute them to the spirits of the departed, condemned to abide in these caves as a penance for faults committed while in this world.

The boatmen told us we were most fortunate in our day; for if there is the slightest roughness on the sea, or even a swell, the entrance to the grotto is very difficult; in some cases adventurous travel-