concrete. For a small boat, an old dishpan makes a splendid form in which to cast our anchor. A good quality of Portland cement must be used, in the proportion of one of cement to two of gritty sand. Mix thoroughly and add a quantity of broken or any old iron bolts and other small bits of scrap iron you may happen to find. In the center of the form, embed a large eyebolt with a large washer firmly riveted to the end.
An image should appear at this position in the text. The buoy or pick-up may be made in the form of a spar, but an old beer keg is the best, be- cause being heavily made it is easily rendered waterproof and will stand many years of hard service. To at- tach the mooring line, a heavy iron rod is run through the sides of the keg and the ends turned over to form eyes chain for attaching the cable. From anchor to buoy, chain is best but rope is all right if renewed each season.
How to Sail Your Boat
The knack of handling sailing craft is quickly learned, but the many little practical wrinkles of seamanship are only to be picked up after considerable experience on the water. Sailing is not the dangerous sport many people imagine it to be, however, and if the boat is of good model and not over-rigged, prac- tically all accidents may be placed at the door of carelessness and ignorance or a desire to appear smart and show off. Of course every boatman should know how to swim; one does not anticipate a capsize or collision, it is true, yet accidents occur now and then, and the ability to keep afloat is well worth acquiring — even if only for the greater confidence it gives.
As every boat possesses certain char- acteristics and little peculiarities, the handling of one craft differs somewhat from that of another, but the principles of handling are the same for all craft propelled by sails — from the four-masted schooner down to the little skiff we have just built. Hence, the owner should know his own craft — how much sail she can safely carry to get the best speed, and so on.
While a knowledge of the theory of sailing is not at all necessary to sail a boat, every skipper should have some idea of the effect of the wind on his craft. Now the wind pressure against the sails of our boat acts in two directions — it presses and drives the boat ahead, and also forces it sideways, to make it tip or "heel." The pushing force of the wind is of course encouraged in every possible way, by proper rigging and handling, while the heeling tendency is counteracted by making the boat sufiti- ciently stable to resist the upsetting force. This is gained by building the craft of ample beam, by using a deep or heavy keel, or by ballasting the boat with lead, iron, rocks, sand-bags or other heavy weight placed on the bottom of the craft.
When a smooth-bottomed craft (like a common row-boat) is fitted with a sail, the side pres- An image should appear at this position in the text.By "tacking" a boat can proceed against the strongest wind sure is so marked that the boat will be forced side- ways even faster than it is pro- pelled ahead. This sliding or , "making leeway" as sailors call it, must be eliminated so far as possible, and this is done by using a deep keel or — in the case of the boat we have made, by using a centerboard. When sailing close-hauled or beating against the wind, the center-board is dropped, thus affording resistance to the side pressure. When sailing free, or directly before the wind, the board is raised, so that all the driving force of the wind may be gained to propel the craft forward.
