bottom of the can was removed, care being taken to leave a clean edge. A round piece of glass was cut out and its edge covered with a strip of sheet galvanized metal which was cut as shown. This covering was hinged to the side of the oil can and a snap fastener was attached.
The upper picture shows the front and rear part including the axles and wheels and the lower one the arrangement of the foot pedal and rear control of the throttle with a wire and rod
The brake drums were made of hard-wood, cut and turned to a diameter of 6 in. The centers were bored out to fit over the check nut on the wheel hub. The drums were fastened to the sprocket by drilling four holes through the latter into which were inserted screws or small bolts. A strip of metal was fastened to the outside surface for the brake strap to rub against. Measure three-quarters of the distance around the disk and cut a heavy clock spring to this length. Draw the temper in each end and drill two small holes in one end and rivet it to a piece of ½-in. square bar 3 in. long. Drill a single hole in the other end and fasten a cable wire for operating the brake. Bend the spring to the curve of the disk and rivet a strip of motorcycle brake lining to inside surface. If this material cannot be procured, a heavy piece of leather will do, but it will not wear so long. Fasten the free end of the bar to the under side of the outside slat at a point where it will just clear the disk. Fasten a piece of 3/16-in. cable wire to the single hole and run it down and under a wood pulley placed midway between the disk and brake bar, as shown, thence to the end of the brake bar where it is fastened in a notch.
The arrangement of the pulleys, wire and drum for the steering of the front wheels
The brake bar is made of a piece of ½-in. square bar steel, placed across the slats toward the front as shown. It is fastened by boring a small hole through the center and at each end. A small,
