sist on stewed frijoles or brown beans, and tortilla, the plain hot maize cakes, seasoned with a pepper sauce of chile, varying occasionally with a maize porridge called atolli, similarly seasoned. These Indian dishes[1] appeared also on the tables of the higher classes, as adjuncts, for with them both meals and dishes were numerous. They began the day with chocolate, thin, foaming, and flavored with vanilla or other ingredients, and taken with cake and fruit, a refreshment indulged in by the women at frequent intervals.[2]
The regular breakfast with meats and other substantial dishes came a little later. In some parts a las once, wine or liquor with cake, or other light food, was taken before the heavy noon meal, with its soup, sopa, cooked rice or roasted bread with melted fat, puchero, equivalent to the Spanish olla podrida, a mixture of different meats and vegetables,[3] supported by plainer dishes, including the frijoles with fresh cheese, and followed by the excessively sweet preserves and confectionery. Hot tortillas were served throughout the meal instead of bread, although this lay on the table. Wine or water was seldom taken till after eating. The siesta lasted till four o'clock. Toward dusk was laid a lighter meal, and chocolate with sweets and other drinks, or even tamales, meat pies, served for supper.[4]
- ↑ Described in Native Races, ii. 354 et seq., this series.
- ↑ Gage relates that they used even to take it during mass at church, pleading the need of sustenance. In Chiapas a bishop attempted to stop the custom, but only evoked hostility which resulted in his death by poisoning. Thenceforth it became a saying: Beware of the Chiapas chocolate. Voy., ii. 165-70.
- ↑ Most European vegetables were used, but veal and butter rarely.
- ↑ Estalla, xxvi. 301-2, rightly attributes much decrepitude to this excessive indulgence, and declares that this together with the climate made women of 30 appear as old as those of 50 in Spain. See also Pike, Explor., 373-4. Humboldt gives a list of the staple food of Mexico, and shows that this city
costly. Recop. de Ind., i. 155-8. The first remote cemetery opened at Revilla Gigedo's instance was at Vera Cruz in 1790. Puebla followed the examp le in the following year, but Mexico delayed longer. Revilla Gigedo, Instruc., 48-52. Distinguished persons were not supposed to be consigned beyond the church precincts, but decrees of 1813-14 abolished this exemption. Mex., Prov. Dioces., MS., 490-1.
