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88 GULMARG

treasures of plant life, through which glimpses of the mighty Kinchinjanga, 28,160 feet, could be caught,—except that, I know of no other more beautiful road than this along the ridge of Gulmarg.

From it one looks down through the wealth of forest on to the valley below, intersected with streams and water-channels, dotted over with wooded villages, and covered with rice-fields of emerald green ; on tothe great river winding along the length of the valley to the Wular Lake at its western end; on to the glinting roofs of Srinagar ; on to the snowy range on the far side-valley ; and, finally, on to Nanga Parbat itself.

And never for two days together is this glorious panorama exactly the same. One day the valley will be filled with a sea of rolling clouds through which gleams of sunshine light up the brilliant green of the rice-fields below. Above the billowy sea of clouds long level lines of mist will float along the opposite mountain-sides. Above these again will rise the great mountains looking inconceivably high. And above all will soar Nanga Parbat, look- ing at sunset like a pearly island rising from an ocean of ruddy light.

On another day there will be not a cloud in the