The Travels of Macarius, Patriarch of Antioch/Volume 1/Part 1/Book 1/Section 6

The Travels of Macarius, Patriarch of Antioch (1836)
by Paul of Aleppo, translated by F. C. Belfour
Book I. Sect. VI
Paul of Aleppo3738893The Travels of Macarius, Patriarch of Antioch — Book I. Sect. VI1836F. C. Belfour

Sect. VI.

Constantinople.—At Maidan.

From St. Sophia we went to see the Mosque of the late Sultan Ahmed, who was so famous for his refractoriness. Its floor is formed of unpolished marble, as cut from the quarry. Afterwards we walked over the Esplanade, or Public Walk of Constantinople, which is celebrated throughout the world. It is called the At Maidan; that is, the Field of the Horse, or Race Ground, (Ἱππόδρομος,) and is in front of the Mosque. We viewed, erected upon a stone pedestal, the admirable Pyramid, called the New Tekelli Dash; which is one entire piece of stone, squared, and of a grey colour, inclining to red. On the four sides, it has engraved certain scientific shapes or figures and likenesses of animals, which are all philosophic words (Hieroglyphics). The Pyramid is fixed upon four cubes of brass; and has under it a cube of white marble, in one piece, the length and breadth and height of which is fourteen spans on each side square; and, on each side, it is sculptured with personal forms, every side presenting a different group. Its height from the base to the summit, that is, the height of the pillar and its pedestal, is equal to that of the minarets of the Mosque of Sultan Ahmed.

At the distance of a stone's throw from this Pyramid is a pillar of thick brass, twisted together in three rolls, as if it were three serpents or dragons entwined upon each other. Upon the top are three serpents heads, stretched with open mouths towards the three sides of the city: the lower jaw of one of them is broken. It is pretended, that the deceased Sultan Othman broke it with his mace; and also, that this pillar has been a protection, since the time of the Emperor Constantine, against the entrance of serpents into the city, one and all: and it is related, as an historical fact, that when, upon this occasion, this single head was broken, the side of the city to which it stretched was immediately invaded by serpents: but they do no injury.

Distant another stone's throw hence, is a second Pillar (صومعه), constructed of stone, called also Tekelli Dash.

We went next to view the Tombs of the deceased Sultans; that is, of the Othmanlis, from the time they conquered Constantinople, till now; together with the tomb of Sultan Murad and his nineteen children, who were strangled; and afterwards the tomb of his mother, Kosa Cason. We made a circuit through all these tombs. Over them are lamps of gold; and the rich offerings with which they are adorned surpass admiration. The officer in attendance admits visitors for sake of the good work.

The tombs of the Sultans Mustafa and Ibrahim are in another cemetery, near to the inclosure of Saint Sophia, on the way to the Divan. This is raised in solid white marble, both inside and out; and is of recent structure, giving delight to the beholder. Opposite to it is another cemetery of similar construction.

Here is the road to the Divan; and here are stationed the Writers of Petitions and the Exchangers of Intimacies; that is to say, of permissions to pass for interviews, and so forth, with their masters.

Hence we turned to visit the Aslan Khanah, or House of Lions; which consists of an ancient church of low structure, and another with a lofty cupola above it, wherein are still traces of the mosaic paintings, and of the portraits of Our Lord and the Four Evangelists, remaining until now. In the former are the wild beasts; consisting of four lions, one from Algiers (or Africa); the others from our country (Asia); and four panthers from divers countries: a jackal, a fox, three wolves, a hyæna, a head of an ancient elephant, an antique skeleton of a camel-panther (زرافه Girafa), together with an ancient crocodile. There are also traces in this lower church of the images and forms of Philosophy (Mythology) still left. It was dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, and is exceedingly revered. It is believed to have been the church of St. Chrysostom.

Near the Aslan Khanah is the Jiba Khanah, or House of Armour; upon the door of which is suspended an exceeding large and singular Jazma, or battle-axe. Its companion is hung on the door of the Top Khanah. Besides this, there is a variety of costly rarities.