A Complete Course in Dressmaking/Lesson 9/Stitchery for infants' clothes
STITCHERY FOR INFANTS' CLOTHES
Dainty little stitches add so much to these charming little garments. There is an opportunity to display exquisite taste in the combining of delicate colors, of using two or more different stitches together or selecting just the very prettiest stitch for the particular garment. Often on the little fronts and sleeves the outline stitch is combined with the feather stitch, flanking it on either side to give a contrast or the outline may be combined with cross stitching.
The description of several suitable fancy stitches is given below.
Fig. (1) Blanket stitch is an attractive finish for edges
The Blanket Stitch: This stitch, shown in Fig. 1, is one of the easiest ways of finishing an edge, especially on the heavier materials. It also affords an opportunity to add a charming bit of color on the tiny clothes.
When used on the edges of collars and cuffs, they are usually lined or the edges first finished with a binding before the blanket stitch is added. A bit of novelty is using together two contrasting colors of cotton when the blanket trimming is used for the heavier materials. For instance, a delicate blue and pink on a creamy white wrap.
Whipping the Edges: Where a delicate finish is desired, roll over the extreme edge of the material on the wrong side and fasten it by whipping over and over with the embroidery cotton as shown in Fig. 2. This is particularly pretty on a sheer batiste frock
Fig. (2) Just rolling and whipping an edge is often effective
for the edge may be rolled and whipped which makes a binding or other finish for the edge unnecessary.
When the edge is prepared for a lace finish, the roll must be very tiny, yet sufficient material rolled over so that it will not fray out. Fine needles and very fine thread must be used. This same whipping is used to join beading to the material and to the lace when insertion is used for wee garments. The same finish is employed in women's lingeries such as skirts, chemises and nightgown yokes and also for the French type of hand made blouse. Whipping is also frequently used on jabots and frills edged with lace for, when the ruffle blows back and forth, it presents a smooth finished surface on either side.
Fig. (3) Outline stitch may he the simple touch of handwork needed to make an infant's dress dainty
The Outline Stitch: This simple but extremely effective stitch is used on infants' dresses, caps and underwear. It is frequently combined with other embroidery stitches. It will often outline the neck, wrist bands or cuffs, belt and pocket, the latter being embroidered with some pretty design in cross stitch. This is the stitch so often used for the stems and leaves of flowers in embroidery. (See Fig. 3.)
Bring the needle out on the right side of the goods, draw the cotton and hold it with the thumb. Take a back stitch just beyond the first one, bringing out the needle at the exact spot where it was inserted in the last stitch. (See Fig. 3.) Always throw the thread in the same direction.
The Lazy Daisy Stitch: This decorative stitch is often seen on the little cashmere coatees and sacks, also on the cunning caps and hoods, wherever a touch of embroidery is needed. The daisy may be placed between lines of feather stitching, hemstitching or outline stitching, on the little fronts and yokes. It is also most fetching for other of baby's equipment such as carriage covers and straps, blankets, pillow covers and other dainties.
Fig. (4) Lazy daisy stitch is showy and works up quickly
The lazy daisies are more attractive when made with a soft finished cotton. Even for the silk materials and cashmeres, a silk floss with soft finish is best. Of course, you must be careful not to have it clumsy, as then its delicate charm is lost.
In making the daisy, each petal is formed with just two stitches. Mark where you want the center of the daisy and mark a circle for the outside of the daisy. Bring the needle onto the right side of the goods at the center. Insert it just beyond where you brought it out, this time, bringing out the point on the outer circle. Loop the cotton under it. (See Fig. 4.) Bring out the needle and insert it again just beyond the loop of cotton. This last short stitch holds the loop. Bring the needle out again at the center and proceed as before. Work the loops all the way around the circle.
French Knots: These are exceedingly popular now on all types of clothes, even appearing on ladies' serge suits, dresses and woolen frocks as well as infants' clothes. They are so excellent for filling up spaces quickly and without a heavy effect.
The knots are often used to fill the center of a flower, especially those nouveau art ones of the wavy curved outline and indicated center. The knots may be placed in clusters or between rows of other fancy stitch, or follow the line of the embroidered scallop.
On the infant's little things they are often of rose and delicate blue mingled together while on older garments they take much brighter, gayer tones, when they appear on collars and cuffs, blouses and smocks, centerpieces and guest towels.
Knot the cotton and bring the needle out on the right side of the goods. Hold the cotton tightly and wrap it around the needle three or four times. See (A) Fig. 5. The more times the cotton is wrapped around the needle the larger the knot will be. Pull on the cotton until the loops slide down near to where the cotton comes out of the goods. Hold both ends of the cotton firmly as in (B) Fig. 5. Then reverse the needle as in (C). Fig. 5 will show you just how to do it. Insert the needle in the goods near where it came out and hold the loose end of the cotton firmly as you pass the needle onto the wrong side of the goods. This will form a French knot that will not rip out. The prettiest effect is gained in a French knot when you use a knot suited to the material, fine enough for silk or heavy enough for serge or wool.
Fig. (5) Making a French knot that won't rip
Cross Stitching: The beloved stitch of our grandmothers shown in Fig. 6 is here in all its glory of effectiveness and easy manipulation. To work cross stitches, mark a row of squares on the material.
Bring the needle out at the lower corner of the first square and insert it in the far upper corner, bringing it out at the other upper corner. Pass the needle across the square diagonally and insert it in the lower corner, bringing it out at the further upper corner of the next square. This time pass the needle diagonally across the second square and insert it in the lower corner, bringing it out directly above at the upper corner. Insert it in the opposite lower corner, bring it out in the far upper corner of next square and insert it in near lower corner of same square. Proceed as in Fig. 6.
Fig. (6) Cross stitch is another easy-to-make decoration
Fagoting: For joining materials prettily use open work fagoting. It's quickly and easily done. Not only is it used for infants' clothes but is frequently seen on the French type of hand made blouse or lingerie frock and on frocks of crepe de chine.
The fagoting is rarely of a contrasting color but matches in color and shade the material and, of course, nothing is prettier for a baby than white fagoting on white goods. The heavier cotton or silk will speed the work along. Again, it is desirable to choose a rather soft finish, as it will more easily pass through the material to be joined.
Fig. (7) Fagoting is back in style again
Fig. 7 shows the position of the needle in fagoting. Fasten the sewing cotton to one piece of goods. Pass the needle diagonally to the other piece under the stitch just made and take a stitch in the material of the opposite side and continue back and forth as in the illustration.
Cat Stitch: There was a time when cat stitching was only used for underthings but now it is quite the smart thing to cat stitch the little frocks, too. It may be combined with the lazy daisy stitch, French knots and the outline stitch.
Fig. (8) The correct position of the needle in cat stitching
If you are not accustomed to working this stitch shown in Fig. 8, mark two parallel lines on the goods with a tracing wheel about three-eighths of an inch apart. This width may be varied according to the size desired. Bring the needle out on the upper line and insert it about one-quarter of an inch beyond on the lower line. Fig. 8 shows the position of the needle. Bring it out again and insert it about one-quarter of an inch beyond on the upper line in the same position as on the lower line. Continue in the same way.
Feather Stitching: This is perhaps the prettiest of all the stitches in its delicate tracery of line. It combines artistically with lace and other stitchery. It is used over and over again in the baby's and children's dainties and in the finest of underthings and blouses. It is this touch of fine handwork which in the shops adds so much to the price.
When the stitch is used in its finest dimensions it is always white on white except for women's light-tinted underwear. When heavier thread and a larger stitch is used the captivating blues and pinks blossom forth on the little gowns and frocks.
Practise the stitch shown in Fig. 9 on scraps of material. Mark three lines one quarter of an inch apart. Bring the needle out on the center line and insert it on the upper line about one-eighth of an inch beyond, bringing it out on the center line about one-eighth inch beyond where it was first inserted and pass the cotton under the needle. Insert it on the lower line about one-eighth of an inch beyond and bring it out on the center line, passing the cotton under it. (See Fig. 9)
Fig. (9) Feather stitching makes a dainty ornamentation for infants' frocks and underwear
Scalloped Banding: A pretty way of trimming an infant's cap or wrap is with scalloped banding as shown in Fig. 10. It can be made from ribbon or a fold of material. If you are using a fold of material, cut it one and one-quarter inches wide. Fold the strip through the center lengthwise and stitch about one-eighth of an inch from the raw edges. Turn the strip right side out.
To scallop the strip or the ribbon, zigzag the thread as shown in Fig. 10 and then draw it up.
Fig. (10) Scalloped banding makes attractive trimming for a cap or coat
How to Make a Diaper: This more than necessary little article has all of the points of the most modern ideas in baby's clothes. All the horrid safety pins and pokey buttons can be eliminated and replaced by smooth eyelets and flat tieing tapes.
No diagram is necessary of this simple affair which is so quickly and easily made. Cut the material twenty-two or twenty-seven inches square. If you care to, you can make a pattern easily of heavy paper which will always be ready when you wish to add to the supply or make them for a new arrival.
When the square is folded diagonally, make two half-inch slashes in the lower point. Bind or buttonhole the edges of the eyelets in the point and hem the edges of the diaper. Sew six inches of tape to each side edge. In tieing these pass through the eyelets in the point and hold the diaper securely in place.
How to make a Pattern of an Infant's Dress: After looking at the diagrams in Figs. 11 and 12, draw a box ABCD for the front. The lines must be at exact right angles to each other. Make the cross lines from A to B and from C to D measure thirty-one inches. Make the cross lines from A to D and from B to C measure fourteen and a half inches.
Next draw a box for the neck, always preserving the trueness of the right angles. Measure from point A on the AD line one and three-quarter inches and mark point E. Measure two inches from point A on the AB line and mark point G. Measure one and three-quarter inches on a line at right angles to line AB, commencing with point G and mark point F. Draw the connecting line from point E to point F and at right angles to AE line. When you have made the box correctly it is easy to draw in the curve as indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 11.
Draw the box for the armhole, measuring three inches from point E on the AD line and mark point H. Measure four inches on a line at right angles to AD line, starting at point H and mark point I. Measure four inches from point D on the DC line and mark point J. Draw a line at right angles
Fig. (11) Diagram for making front
of infants' dress pattern
Fig. (12) Diagram for making
back of infants' dress pattern
Slip a piece of paper under the diagram and trace around the outer edge of the pattern, allowing a hem at the bottom and seams at the side, armhole, shoulder and neck.
For the back make the box ABCD. Lines A to B and C to D measure fourteen inches. The lines A to C and B to D measure thirty inches. Always be careful to retain right angles. Next draw the box for the neck. Measure one-quarter inch from point B on BD line and mark L. Measure one and three-quarter inches from point B on AB line and mark J. Draw connecting line at right angles to line AB from point J to point K. Then blend a line from point J to point L.
For the armhole box, measure two and five-eighths inches from point J on line AB and mark G. Draw a line at right angles to line AB, measuring four inches from the starting point G and mark F. Measure four inches from point A on the AC line and mark E. Draw a line at right angles to the AC line from point E to point F. (See Fig. 12.)
For shoulder line, measure three-quarters of an inch from point G on the GF line and mark point H. From point H extend a line at right angles to line GF. Draw a line measuring three inches from point J to touch line H. For the shape of the armhole, measure one and a half inches from point F on the GF line and mark I. Measure seven and one-half inches from the point E on the EF line and mark M. Curve a line from the point of the shoulder line to I and continue curve to point M. Measure on the front diagram, Fig. 11 from point N to point M and apply this measure at the underarm of the back to locate point N, as these two edges must be sewn together. (See Fig. 12.)
Slip a piece of paper under the diagram of the back and trace around the outer edge of the pattern allowing a hem at the bottom and seams at the neck, shoulder, armhole and side.
The next step is to test the slope of the armhole, so study the diagrams in Figs. 13, 14, IS. Thumb tack the two cut out pieces of the pattern to the table with the shoulder edges meeting and see if the armhole is a true curve without jog or point in it. The curve should be continuous to fit well. Fig. 13 shows an armhole which has an excellent true curve. It would look as Fig. 16 in the garment. Fig. 14 shows an armhole which points out at the shoulder. This should be trued up by rounding off the point as indicated by the dotted lines. Fig. 15 shows an armhole which scoops in at the shoulder. This shoulder should be filled in to make a true curve as indicated by the dotted line. Examine the results of a badly curved armhole in Figs. 18 and 17. Where the pattern shows an armhole too pointed at the shoulder, as in Fig. 17, no sleeve would set nicely when sewn in. Fig. 18 shows a scooped shoulder where the sleeve would hitch up the arm if it were sewn into this armhole. Fig. 16 shows a dress where the curve is correct, which means a comfortable, well-fitting sleeve.
Another test of the pattern is to thumb tack it with the lower side seams together and see if the line at the bottom is correct.
These diagrams are invaluable as they furnish a key by which other infants' clothes can
Fig. (13) Thumbtack the front and back patterns together to test
the curve at the neck and armhole
be made. For example, if you want to make a kimono sleeve dress, follow the directions given in Lesson II for the Bungalow Apron combined with the body of this diagram, Figs. 11 and 12.
Fig. (14) A pattern that jogs
at the armhole will make a garment
that sets poorly
Fig. (15) An armhole that
needs filling in
Fig. (16) A garment with a
smooth curve at the neck and arm-
hole
Fig. (17) A garment that jogs
at the shoulder
Fig. (18) A garment with an
armhole that needs filling
Fig. (19) Diagram for making
sleeve pattern
The top of the sleeve is a half-inch in front of point E, a point which is marked G. Measure three-quarters of an inch from C on line CD and mark J. Measure the same amount from point D on line CD and mark K. Draw the lines for the sides of the sleeve from point H to point J and from point I to point K. In sewing the sleeve into the armhole, the top of the sleeve at point G should come at the shoulder seam and the sleeve seam should come one and one-quarter inches in front of underarm seam.
If the little dress is to have a slashed and pleated closing, as nearly all infant dresses have, an extra inch must be added beyond the center back of the pattern. (See Fig. 20.) This point will be fully explained later on in the Lesson. Fig. 21 shows the finished dress.
Fig. (20) Allowing at the center
back of the pattern for the pleat
Fig. (21) Avoid lace or trimming that
will irritate the baby's tender skin
are planning to make pin tucks in the front of the dress do not cut the front piece. Cut just a piece of material an inch or so longer than the front pattern and several inches wider.
Fig. (22) The pattern for the infants' dress laid
on the material ready for cutting
Making an Infant's Dress: Make groups of pin tucks either side of the center of the material you have cut for the front, as shown in Fig. 23. Then fold the material through the center again. Place the pattern for the front on it and cut.
Fig. (23) Tuck the material
before cutting the front
Fig. (24) The material slashed
for a center-back closing
Most infants' dresses are made with a slashed opening at the center-back and pleats below. To make the back closing, slash the fold the desired depth and cut crosswise slashes at the bottom, three-fourths of an inch wide. (See Fig. 24.) Turn a hem either side of the lengthwise slash, creasing the material three-fourths of an inch from the raw edges. (See Fig. 25.) Turn under the raw edges one-fourth of an inch and machine stitch or fell the hems by hand. The hems will be one-half inch wide finished. Lap the right hem over the left hem and lay material at the bottom of the slash into small pleats. (See Fig. 26.) Tack these folds securely in place with over-and-over stitches on the wrong side of the garment. (See Fig. 27.)
Fig. (25) The
first step in
making a pleated
center back
closing
Fig. (26) The
finished center-
back closing on
the right side of
the goods
Fig. (27) How
a pleated closing
looks on the
wrong side of
the goods
The shoulder seams may be French seamed or the edges joined with seam beading. If seam beading is used cut off all but one-eighth of an inch seam allowance on the edges to be bound. French seam one edge of the seam beading to the front of the garment and then French seam the free edge of the seam beading to the back of the garment. Make the French seams not more than one-eighth of an inch wide when finished. Seam beading gives an effect similar to hemstitching.
Finish the neck with a fold of the material.
French seam the underarm joinings. French seam the sleeve joining and finish the lower edge of the sleeve with a fold. (See Fig. 28.)
Fig. (28) Finish
the lower edge of
sleeve with a fold
of material
Gather the top of the sleeve and French seam the sleeve to the armhole. French knots will make a pretty trimming between groups of pin tucks and around the hem. The making of French knots is described in the first part of this Lesson.
Making the Pattern for a Gertrude Petticoat: The diagrams for the petticoat are shown in Figs. 29 and 30. Use your foundation dress pattern as a block pattern. In making another pattern it is best to trace the foundation pattern on a piece of heavy paper and then use this traced pattern as a diagram on which to work.
Mark the square outline for the new neck as shown in Fig. 29. Measure one inch from the neck point and mark A. Measure a line two and three-quarter inches from point A at right angles to A line and mark point B. Draw a line at right angles to AB line from
Fig. (29) Diagram for making
front of Gertrude petticoat pattern
Fig. (30) Diagram for making
back of Gertrude petticoat pattern
Fig. (31) A
Gertrude petticoat
is the most
comfortable for the
baby
Fig. (32) Diagram, showing the Gertrude petticoat pattern laid on the goods
petticoat as shown in Fig. 30 make the box for the new neck. Mark a point one inch below the neck with C. Draw a line at right angles to back, measuring two and three-quarter inches from C and mark B. Measure two and three-quarter inches from upper point of neck and mark A and draw a connecting line at right angles to the line BC from A to B. Curve a line from A to midway between B and C on the BC line. See dotted lines in Fig. 30. Measure in a half inch from the shoulder line and mark D, and following dotted line enlarge armhole. Test armhole curve as explained in making the infant's dress and add a tab at the shoulder following the dotted lines, if you want the petticoat to fasten on the shoulder. (See Fig. 31.)
Cutting a Gertrude Petticoat: Diagram 32 shows the pattern for a Gertrude petticoat laid on the material folded double, lengthwise. Note that the center-front and center-back edges are on the fold.
As longcloth, nainsook and such materials have no up and down, the pieces can be laid with the tops toward each other. This will give room at the side to cut the continuous facing, if the petticoat opens at the center-back. Mark around the pattern pieces and cut as described in Lesson II.
Making a Gertrude Petticoat: Infants' clothes are usually handmade. Handwork gives a soft and dainty finish.
If the petticoat has a center-back closing, slash the center-back deeply enough so that the petticoat can be slipped easily over the head. The neatest way to finish the slash is with a continuous facing as described in finishing the placket in petticoat, Lesson III, only in this case sew one edge of facing to slash with running stitches and then slip-stitch the other edge in place. French seam shoulder joinings. Use running stitches in making the French seams.
If petticoat fastens on the shoulder do not close the shoulder seams. Finish neck and armholes with a narrow bias facing. Sew on facing just as casing was sewed to bottom of camisole, Lesson III, but finish facing only one-quarter inch wide.
French seam underarms. Fold under a seam's width at bottom of petticoat and press. Then run a draw thread around bottom. Turn hem desired depth and draw up thread at top of hem until top of hem is the same size as the petticoat at that point. (See Fig. 33.) Fell hem in place. Feather stitching makes an attractive trimming at neck and armholes of a petticoat. Feather stitching is one of the hand finishes described in the first part of the Lesson.
Fig. (33) Turn the hem and then run a gather thread around the top to take up the surplus fullness
Making a Kimono Pattern: For making this simple little pattern shown in Fig. 34 follow the direction already given for making a Bungalow Apron in Lesson II.
After you have made a pattern for the kimono you can then make a collar fit, in any shape desired. Lay the kimono pattern on another piece of paper and mark around the neck and along the front and back edges. To make a round collar decide the depth you want and mark at point at the center-back as A in Fig. 35. Draw a line from point A at right angles to the center-back. Mark points at an equal distance from the neck all the way around and draw the outer edge of the collar as the dotted line in Fig. 35. Be sure that the outer edge has a smooth even curve.
As the collar does not come together in the front, draw a line from the neck opening following the dotted line marked B. This can be placed at any point desired but it must touch the neck at the top. Round the front corner of the collar if desirable and allow seams at the outer edges and cut pattern. Fig 34 shows the made up kimono.
Excellent practise can be obtained in making other shapes of collars since these so often add charm to the simple garment. The same plan can be followed for making collars for any kimono sleeve garment and the collar will always be the exact size of the garment.
Fig. (34) A kimono sleeve sacque is easy to slip on and off
Cutting a Kimono: Diagram 36 shows kimono pattern laid on material folded double lengthwise. Cut as described in General Cutting Direction in Lesson II.
Making a Kimono: It is always a good thing to run a thread around the neck to prevent stretching. French seam the underarm of the kimono and then bind front and lower edges with ribbon.
One of the easiest ways to do this is to run a thread either side of the ribbon. Crease the ribbon through the center and insert the edge of the garment between two thicknesses of the ribbon, pinning the ribbon in position. See Fig 37.)
Fig. (35) Diagram showing how to
make a collar pattern
At the lower edge where the garment is slightly circular it will be necessary to draw up the ribbon until the top of the ribbon is the same size as the garment at that point. The Fig. 38 shows how to fold the ribbon at the corner. A pretty way of sewing the ribbon to the garment is with silk floss in outline stitch. This stitch is described in the first part of the Lesson.
Fig. (36) A kimono sleeved sacque cuts economically
Bind the outer edge of the collar in the same way. Mark the center-back of the collar and the center-back of the garment. Place the collar on the garment in its finished position, keeping the center-backs even. Baste around the neck. Then face the neck with bias lawn. The Fig. 39 shows the first stitching and Fig. 40 shows the facing turned onto the wrong side of the garment and slip-stitched in place.
Gather the lower edge of the sleeve and finish the sleeve with a narrow fold of the material. Cut the fold just the size you want the bottom of the sleeve to finish, plus seams. Join the ends of the fold and press open the seam. Slip this little band over the lower edge of the sleeve and stitch around 
Fig. (37) Binding the edge
with ribbon
Fig. (38) Mitering the corner
of the binding
the bottom. Turn under the free edge of the fold a seam's width and crease the fold through the center. Turn the sleeve wrong side out
Fig. (39) The first step in
facing on a collar
Fig. (40) The collar facing
turned onto the wrong side of the
garment
Making a Coat Pattern: This pattern is shown in diagrams in Figs. 41 and 42. Use the foundation dress pattern as a block pattern and allow an inch extension at the center front as the line AB. Also reshape the neck as it ought to be a little larger. Mark a point a quarter of an inch from the top at the center front and draw a new curve which runs into the side of the neck as the dotted line in Fig. 41.
In the same manner lower the armhole one quarter of an inch. Add a half inch beyond the armhole as indicated by the dotted lines. Also take off one-half of an inch from the width at the bottom and draw a new underarm line following the dotted lines.
Make the same corrections on the back pattern at the armhole and underarm seam as in Fig. 42 so that the two sides may exactly correspond. While these changes in such small measures may hardly seem necessary the actual garment is so tiny and the wearer such a wee thing that even a small fraction of an inch too much or too little may spoil the dainty fit.
In making a new pattern of this kind, lay the foundation pattern on a larger piece of paper and after marking or tracing around it, remove the pattern and use the diagram left to work on. Make the changes and tracing around the new outline allowing seams, cut
Fig. (41) Diagram for making
the front of a coat pattern
Fig. (42) Diagram for making
the back of the coat pattern
Making a Cape Pattern for the Coat: This little cape pattern is shown in Fig. 43. Lay the coat pattern on another piece of paper with the edges even at the shoulder and mark around the neck, shoulder, armhole and underarm seams and also the front and back lines. Remove the pattern and use the diagram to work out the cape. Decide the depth you want the cape at the center-back and draw a line at right angles to the center-back at point A as in Fig. 43. Continue shoulder line as line B.
Fig. (43) Diagram for making cape
Fig. (44) A coat with a short cape is suitable for
summer or winter materials
At the center-front, mark point C which measures the same distance from the neck that point A measured and on line B mark one and a half inches further from the neck than the measure on the lines A and C. Working with the neck edge of the diagram toward you sweep in a continuous curve which touches these three points. It should be a true curve without a bump or jogs. Place point C to mark the distance from the center-front to the edge of the cape that you desire; draw a line from the neck point to point C as the dotted line and also round off the corner of the cape. In tracing the pattern for the cape allow seams at all edges except the center-back which will be placed on a fold of the goods. Fig. 44 shows the finished coat.
From the instructions just given, you can make a cape for a child of any age by using the child's dress pattern as a foundation and for any woman by using her waist pattern as a block pattern.
For the sleeve of the coat use the dress sleeve pattern shown in Fig. 19. Take a half inch off each side at the bottom and run the lines to meet the points H and I.
Fig. (45) Place your pattern so that any left over material is in one
large piece
Cutting an Infant's Coat: Diagram 45 shows the pattern of the cloak laid on the material folded double, lengthwise. Mark around the pieces and cut as described in Lesson II.
Making an Infant's Coat: Make open seams at shoulder and underarm joinings.
Line cape with some soft silk. The lining should be cut a trifle smaller than the outside piece at all points. Lay the lining on the outside piece with the right sides of the material together. In stitching around the outside, hold the material to the size of the lining. Cut off the seam to within one-fourth of an inch of the stitching. Slash the edges around the curve and turn the piece right side out. The edges of the material will roll over the lining and hide the joining. Baste the cape to the neck edge.
Turn a seam's width at the front edge and the hem at the bottom of the cloak and press these edges. Cat-stitch these edges in place, being sure that the stitches do not show through onto the right side of the garment. (See Fig. 46.)
Join shoulder and underarm seams of lining and press open the seams. Pin the lining to the cloak, keeping the shoulder and underarm seams even. Turn under the edges at the neck, front and lower edge and fell the lining to the outside coat at these points. Baste the lining to the coat around the armhole. Close the sleeve seam and the seam in the sleeve lining and press seams open. Turn the sleeve wrong side out and slip the lining over the sleeve. Tack it to the sleeve along the seam.
Join the lining to the cuff at the top and close the ends of the cuff and the cuff lining. (See Fig. 47.) Stitch the lower edge of the cuff lining to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn under the free edge of the cuff and slip-stitch it over the raw edges at the bottom of the sleeve. (See Fig. 48.) Gather the top of the
Fig. (46) Finishing
the front
Fig. (47) Making
the cuff
Fig. (48) Finishing
the lower edge
of the sleeve
Fig. (49) Felling
the sleeve lining
in place
sleeve and sew the sleeve to the armhole with a plain seam. Turn the raw edges of the seam into sleeve. Then gather the top of the sleeve lining. Turn under the edge a seam's width and fell the s eeve lining over the raw edges at the armhole. (See Fig. 49.) Finish the closing with buttons and buttonholes.
Making the Pattern for a Long Cape: This pattern is shown in the diagram in Fig. 50. The same principle can be applied to making a long cape that was used in making shorter one but the result will be a cape that is very wide at the bottom. In order to retain the right proportions and make the cape smaller at the bottom, place the coat pattern on a piece of paper and spread the pattern open at the shoulders. (See Fig. 50.)
Fig. (50) Diagram for making long cape with shoulder dart
Draw the shoulder line, starting it center way between the front and the back of the neck and touching the front and the back at the armhole and extend the line, marking it A and B. Decide how long you want the cape and mark this point on the center-back and also mark the same measure on the front. Add one and a half inches to this measure and mark for the end of the AB line from the neck. Curve the line for the bottom of the cape as described in making the short cape. Allow seams at the neck edge and front and lower edge and cut out the pattern.
Making a Pattern for the Hood of the Long Cape: This little hood is shown in Fig. 51. Draw the ABCD box with right angle lines. Measure nine and a half inches from A to C and from B to D. Make the cross lines measure six and a half inches from C to D and from A to B. Measure three inches from point B on the AB line and mark E. Measure three inches on the AC line from point A and mark point F. Measure one and a half inches from C on the CD line and mark point G. Draw in the curve from E to F and on to G, keeping a continuous curve without awkward breaks. Notice that the upper part of the curve is more rounding while the lower half has a gentle slope to point G. It may help you to draw a straight line from E to F first and then fill in the curve.
Fig. (51) Diagram for making hood
Making the Long Cape: The finished cape in cashmere is shown in Fig. 52. Close the shoulder dart in the outside cape and in the lining as shown in Fig 53. Curve the stitching, reversing the curve at the outer edge and gradually running it off to nothing. This gives a well rounded, smooth dart on the right side of the goods. If the dart is stitched straight across it will end in a blunt point which will poke out on the right side of the garment. After stitching, cut through the center of the dart and press the edges open.
Fig. (52) A long cape is a practical wrap for the
small baby
Next baste the ribbon streamers to the wrong side of the front edges at the neck and sew the lining to the outside of the front edge, placing the lining with the right side next to the right side of the cape. Stitch down the fronts a seam's width from the edge and across the neck edge one inch. (See Fig. 54.)
Fig. (53) Taper the
stitching of a dart
Turn the cape right side out. Turn up the lower edge a seam's width and press it. Then fell the lining over it as in Fig. 55. To refresh your memory refer to instructions on felling in Lesson I.
Making the Hood for the Cape: Lay the two pieces of the hood together and stitch around the outer edges. (See Fig. 56.) Turn the hood right side out. Press and run in two gathering threads a half inch edge as in Fig. 57.
Gather the lower edge of the hood and baste it to the neck edge of the outside of the cape—laying the hood with the outisde next to the outside of the cape and with the neck edges even. (See Fig. 58.) Now turn under the raw edge of the lining and fell it over the raw edges of the neck. (See Fig. 59.)
Fig. (54) Finishing the front of the cape
Fig. (55) Finishing the lower
edge of the cape
AB line and the CD line. BD is the center back. Measure one and three-quarter inches from point A on the AB line and mark point J. Measure three-quarters of an inch from point B on the BD line and mark point H. Measure one and three-quarter inches from B on the AB line and mark point G. Measure two inches from point A on the AC line and mark point L. Draw a line at right angles to AC line, measuring one and three-quarter inches and mark point K. Draw a line at right angles to the KL line to point J. Draw a line at right angles to line BH, measuring one and three-quarter inches from point H. From this line draw a line at right angles to point G. Measure one and a quarter inches from point E on the EF line and
Fig. (56) The hood and the lining
stitched together
For an extension at the front add one inch as shown in the dotted lines from M to N in Fig. 61. Add another inch for a hem as dotted lines P to Q. In cutting out the pattern allow for seams at the neck, shoulder and front edges. The BD is the center-back and should be placed on a fold of the material.
Fig. (57) Run two shirr threads in the hood
To Make a Pattern for the Pointed Hood of the Cozywrap: To make the pattern for the pointed hood as shown in Fig. 60, draw the ABCD box with the lines at right angles. (See Fig. 62.) Make the lines from A to B and from D to C measure six inches. Make the cross lines A to D and B to C measure nine and a half inches. Measure two and a half inches from point A on the AD line and mark point E. Measure one inch from point D on the DC line and mark point H. The line BC represents the center-back. Draw a line from point B to point E. Measure a point center way between point B and point E on the BE line and mark point F. Curve a line from point B to point G and from there to point E, following the dotted line in Fig. 62.
Fig. (58) The hood joined to the cape
Making the Cozywrap: This delightful little wrap will help keep all the chilly winds away from precious baby. It may be made of various materials which are soft and warm. Eiderdown is most successful and so soft and woolly appearing. It launders beautifully.
Binding the edges is the most practical way to finish the wrap unless you want to line it. All the details of binding you will find in referring to Lesson II. Narrow silk ribbon in cheery colors can be used. In fact, almost any material which is washable and has firm enough texture to bind the edges of material as thick as eiderdown will be successful. The piece basket may inspire some unique combinations.
Fig. (59) Felling the lining in place
The first step is to bind the fronts. Turn and stitch hems: Fig. 63. Fold wrap, lapping the fronts and stitch the shoulder seams and the lower edge. (See Fig. 64.) Overcast the edges and refer to the instructions on the subject in Lesson I.
If you do not wish to bind the little wrap, turn and press and stitch the front seams and line the wrap. In this style, stitch the shoulders and the bottom of the wrap and the lining as in Fig. 64. Then while the wrap is turned wrong side out, slip the lining over the wrap with the wrong side of the lining next to the wrong side of the wrap. Tack it together at the shoulders and the bottom. Turn under the raw edges of lining at the front and slip-stitch them over the hems.
Fig. (60) Infant's cozywrap of eiderdown
Fig. (61) Diagram for making pattern for cozywrap
described in Making a Kimono in this Lesson or line the little hood. If the wrap is lined the hood should be lined also or just the little hood may be lined. In lining the hood, fold the lining and stitch as in Fig. 65. Press open the seam at the top of the lining and outside hood and slip the lining over the hood with the right side of the lining next to the right side of the hood. Stitch around the front edges and turn the hood right side out.
Fig. (62) Diagram
for making pointed
hood
In joining the hood to the wrap, place the hood on the outside of the wrap with the neck edges even. If the wrap is unlined lay a piece of bias binding on the top of the wrap and stitch as in Fig. 66. Turn the binding onto the wrong side of the wrap and stitch as in Fig. 67. If the wrap is lined, in sewing the hood to the wrap the first time, leave it free and afterwards turn in the raw edge of the lining and fell it into place.
Fig. (63) Bind the front
edge and run a hem
Fig. (64) As the wrap looks turned
wrong side out
Fig. (65) The hood
wrong side out
Fig. (66) Facing the hood to the neck
from F to E, following the dotted lines in diagram shown in Fig. 68. In cutting, the
Fig. (67) The facing turned
onto the wrong side
Fig. (68) Diagram for cutting
cap pattern
To complete the pattern, cut a circle three and three-quarters inches across which allows for seams, and when finished will measure three inches across. The easiest way to cut a circle if you have no compass is to cut a square of paper three and three-quarter inches across, fold it in half as in Fig. 69. Then fold it again as in Fig. 70. Measure from the inner corner one and seven-eighths inche
Fig. (69) Use a square of paper
to cut a pattern for the back of
the cap
Fig. (70) Fold the paper in
quarters and round of the
corners
and mark points every quarter of an inch apart. Then draw a curve touching these points. Cut along the curved line and use the paper circle as a pattern. Fig. 71 shows the finished cap.
Fig. (71) An infant's cap suitable for
silk, broadcloth or batiste
Cutting the Cap: Diagram 72 shows the pieces for a cap laid on the material. Mark around them and cut as described in Lesson II.
The material for the cap should be soft, as a baby's head is very tender. Batiste is suitable for summer, and corded silk or silk and wool flannel for winter, with a China silk lining.
Fig. (72) The cap
pattern laid on the
material for cutting
Fig. (73) The back
of the cap gathered
and the seam closed
Fig. (74) Joining
the back section to
the cap
Bind the outer edges of the cap with ribbon, just as the edges of the kimono were bound. Bound edges are much better than lace trimming for lace is apt to irritate the baby's skin.
Fig. (75) Lining the cap
Fig. (76) A quilted interlining
for the winter cap
If the cap is lined make an open seam at the back and a plain seam in joining the circular section to the cap, both in the outside and the lining. Then turn under the outer edges of both lining and outside a seam's width, press and slip-stitch the lining to the cap. (See Fig. 75.) For very cold weather an interlining can be added if the outside cap has been cut large enough. Use cotton batting for the interlining, quilting it to the lining before the lining is sewed to the cap. (See Fig. 76.)
Apply What You Have Learned to Other Garments: All these interesting things which you have been learning in this Lesson on making infants' clothes will be used in the succeeding Lessons. All the little embroidery stitches, the way of adding tucks to a plain pattern, the manner of finishing the neck are to be used on children's clothes and garments for yourself. All the delicate and refined French handmade blouses have these various fine details and it is the dainty, perfect finish that stamps them as of the first order of exquisite work and design. Summery dresses, too, need much the same type of treatment as these little infants' clothes.
