Bohemian Section at the Austrian Exhibition, Earl's Court London 1906/Statistics of Home-industries in Bohemia

by K. Burda

STATISTICS OF HOME-INDUSTRIES IN BOHEMIA.

 

While in many countries, home industrial work has ceased owing to the introduction of the factory system and adoption of wonderful mechanical labour-saving devices now so commonly used in these days of keen trade competition and commercial rivalries, in Bohemia home-industries still flourish; but not to the great profit of the workers whose hand productions must compete with the machine-made work of the factories. The fact however, is, that our home workers are contented, and not afraid of hard work even though the hours are long and their earnings small. The consequence is that their handiwork holds its own even in competition with the manufacturers of the large establishments.

The cheapness of the labour has led many energetic commercial men possessing capital, to do a great deal in the way of organising the trade of the various industries, and so the work which at one time was only produced to supply local requirements, now, thanks to the system introduced by large dealers, agents and others, the great world markets have been opened up for the products of our home industries.

It is our intention to deal separately in a series of short articles, with a number of the principal trades carried on for the most part in the homes of the people  But we shall first give a brief general survey of the field of labour and then follow on with a more detailed account of certain of the handicrafts.

We may here say that most of this work is done during the winter months, for our country-folk are naturally inclined for agricultural labour, and therefore they are to be found in the fields during the seasons favourable for out-door, and in winter apply themselves diligently to the production of a great variety of useful and ornamental articles, and in this wary during winter they are able by their industry „to keep the wolf from the door“.

The North East and the South East of Bohemia is where the textile branches of industry are most in evidence, weaving stuffs of fine quality, down through various grades of work and kinds of material to cheap linen and cotton goods. Others busy themselves in the production of the beautiful glass-ware for which Bohemia is famous, the polishing of precious stones of varied kinds and values give employment to a considerable number, lovely laces and embroidery keep many nimble fingers busy and so does the making of glass rings, buttons, beads and things commonly known as Jablonecké zboží (wares from Gablonz. Then in another direction, near the district of Krkonoše (Riesengebirge), there are many cleverly blowing glass-pearl beads, and making glass memorial wreathes. Then, the making of hammers and other tools, chains, nails, kitchen utensils and household requirements generally keep a good number of hands going during the dark months of the year.

Wood is worked up in the forest districts of the Šumava (Bohemian Forest) where the material is plentiful and cheap. There are produced here, such things as Chip boxes, toys, pipes, wooden vessels for domestic use, agricultural implements and articles of drum-like form such as sieves be.

Then there are parts kept busy in the making of baskets, and the plaiting of rush, osier and bast into many forms, from business-like hampers to dainty and prettily finished receptacles for the boudoir.

In the South of Bohemia they are noted for the manufacture of mother-of-pearl buttons, in this trade many of the home workers get employment from factories where work is given out. In the high borderland of Bohemia and of Moravia, they have to thank the wearing of hair nets for the employment of thousands of hands, let us hope the fashion will continue. In this part they do a good trade in sale of hair and variety of hair-made articles.

The staple industry in the East of Bohemia is the leather in its several branches from saddlery to portemonnaies. Brushes are also made in this district.

Amongst the least profitable of occupations is the making of thread buttons, and so it is well that the labour of children can be employed in their production.

Of all our home-industries; the most common is that which is concerned with the production of embroidery and lace, this demands a high standard of natural intelligence combined with patience and good taste. Our people possess the necessary good qualities and from many years have succeeded in producing laces and embroideries that can stand comparison with the work of other lace-making countries. But the authorities, imperial, provincial and municipal, have determined that the work people shall not be permitted „to rest on their laurels“, and therefore, for insuring continuance of progressive improvement in the condition of the people and the products of their labour, schools have been established by the various authorities throughout the country for the special training of workers.

Lectures on technical subjects are delivered, and lessons in drawing and original design imparted to all who show a special aptitude for art work. While new designs are continually being produced, the study and reproduction of the antique is encouraged especially the patterns of old Bohemian lace which are highly esteemed by all who appreciate fine work and beautiful design.

Linen and cotton under-wear, ladies’ robes, cravats, umbrellas, sunshades and gloves are made in Prague and the adjacent neighbourhood. The workers engaged in the production of the articles named, have benefited by the tendency in this age of hurry, for purchasers to prefer a ready-made article.

Many of the towns in their rapid extension, show the beneficial effects of the development of our home and factory industries. This is especially marked in the mountainous districts where nature herself forces her children to adapt themselves to new conditions of life.

And so by force of circumstances the country-folk whose original occupation was chiefly field-labour, have taken to home-work and factory employment.

In some trades, they are occasionally affected by the vagaries of fashion, and have to meet a sudden demand for an article which enjoys but a butter-fly life. However, our people are always able to deal with such passing fashions with due promptitude.

So is Lomnice nad Popelkou (Lomnice on the Popelka) in the North East of Bohemia, a typical example of the transformation of a small hill-town into a purely industrial centre. This is owing to the initiative of the inhabitants themselves. Here are many small weavers who make the material, dyes it and passes the fabric on to the needle-woman who fashions it into a variety of articles, some plain, and others most elaborately embroidered.

While the production of articles for outward adornment is the special work of so many, there are those in this district who give their attention to supplying some of the wants of „the inner man“, in the form of crackers and quite a variety of nice biscuits.

But in addition to the articles already mentioned this busy part produces in the neighbourhood of Lomnice, such things as garnet ornaments, coffee-mills and organs.

While the people are kept fairly busy, their earnings are small. Here the law of supply and demand operates so far as the labour-market is concerned. We have a superabundance of labour,—consequently is cheap. We are seeking to improve matters by extending our over-sea trade and opening new markets, to that end we hope that the Exhibition at Earl’s Court will assist us to find the best of all remedies, an increased demand for the productions of our home and factory industries.

Certain societies connected with museums; such as those of Chrudim, Králové Hradec (Königgrätz) and Hořice, have made special efforts to organise the labour and improve the commercial side of the business, and in this way promote the interests of all concerned, by pushing the sales of the people’s work.

The last named museum is endeavouring to form an industrial company for the purpose of introducing novelties for the benefit of the bead-makers in Trotín. In this laudable endeavour, they are assisted by the Technological museum of the Prague Chamber of Commerce where they are ever ready to assist the labouring classes in their work of self-improvement, by arranging instructive lectures and giving special advice.

The articles on exhibition at Earl’s Court will enable visitors to form some idea of the wonderful development of Bohemian home industries in their several branches.

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Thus far, we have dealt with the subject of the trades generally, we shall now endeavour to give some special information concerning the trades separately.

 

CUTTING AND POLISHING OF PRECIOUS STONES.

 

The principal occupation of the men employed in Turnov and its environs is the polishing of rubies and other precious stones. Those known as „cape rubies“ or „almandines“ are imported from India by way of Germany. Before the operator begins his work, the stones are sorted and arranged as to size and quality. The same preliminary is gone through with the finest class of rubies, sapphires, emeralds, amethysts, topazes and diamonds.

In addition to the stones named, there are others, which are not strictly classed as „precious“ but capable of a very high polish. These are used in the manufacture of the cheaper kinds of jewellery and for a variety of ornamental purposes.

Some of the work is done in the workshops of tradesmen employing labour, but much is done in the homes of the people.

In this stone polishing, 500 men are kept steadily employed throughout the year, but in exceptionally busy seasons as many as three thousand hands are engaged. At such times, they can turn out polished stones to the value of ₤ 42.000.

The tradesmen of Turnov do not depend entirely on the production of their own workshops, but have a considerable amount of work done by a staff of skilled men resident in the villages, who are expert in the cutting and polishing of specialities.

Many of them are engaged in the polishing of a stone called „karmasinky“ (carmoisine), this description, is much used by belt-makers and braziers in Jablonec, and a large quantity is exported, chiefly to France from which country the rough material is drawn

 

LINEN EMBROIDERY.

 

In districts of East Bohemia, such as Chrudim, Skuč, Nasavrky, Pardubice and Hlinsko, quite an army of women; more than two thousand, are employed in embroidering linen of all kinds and qualities; some, for the needs of humble villagers, others for the requirements of castle or palace.

The prices paid to the worker for the embroidery, includes the cost of material, printing or drawing of the pattern on the linen foundation, and for the design when a new style has been submitted and approved. An exception to this rule is, in the case of work sent from Vienna with the patterns already on the linen. Indeed, Vienna is the place from which the embroiderers get most work, the women of course do not deal direct with Vienna houses, the business is done through the agency of local dealers or the special representatives of the large whole-sale establishments.

1 d per yard, is paid for the cheapest class of work; the price increasing in the case of the finer qualities and more elaborate designs. But it is only a high grade of goods that commands 4 d. A more than ordinary smart hand can earn 10 d for a day’s work on plain full embroidery; but she must be quite an artist and very expert to get 1 s. 4 d or 1 s. 8 d for her days labour.

The staple products are counterpanes, ladies’ underwear, scarves, ties and a variety of other articles embroidered on a linen foundation.

 

ARTICLES OF MOTHER OF PEARL.

 

Most shell-bearing molluses are provided with a secretion with which they line their shells, and give the other wise harsh granular material of which the shell is formed, a beautifully smooth surface. This secretion is laid in extremely thin semi-transparent films, which, in consequence of such an arrangement, have generally a beautiful iridescence, and form in certain species, a sufficient thickness to be cut into useful and ornamental articles. The material itself in its hardened condition is called „nacre“ by zoologists, and by dealers „mother of pearl“.

Articles of mother of pearl appear in a multiplicity of forms, from the humble and neccessary button to all kinds of beautiful things for personal adornment; literally they are used „from head to foot“ for they appear in the pretty head-dresses of the ladies, on their waist-belts and as buckles on their dainty shoes. We also find it worked into parts of fine furniture, inlaid work handels etc.

We shall now confine ourselves to the giving of a few particulars concerning the most useful of the articles produced by our workers in mother of pearl, „buttons“!

These are made in the districts of Čáslav, Kolín, Králové Hradec, Pardubice and Poděbrady, the centre of the industry being Žírovnice a town in the hilly borderland, and Moravia where the trade has rapidly developed since 1865. The buttons are turned on a lathe, the operation being performed with great rapidity.

According to the class of work, a particular shell is used; for they are of various kinds and imported from different parts of the world. In continuation of his work, the operator removes the rough outer layer by grinding, the surface is polished, disc perforated and the finished buttons sewn upon a card.

It would require more space than we can afford, to name all the varieties of this useful article to which all people are more or less attached.

The wares go principally to Vienna and Germany, and from these cities, the chief export trade is done with many foreign countries.

The earnings of men in this trade, of course vary and run from 5—13 s 4 d to 1—3 d.

It may be interesting to know, that in this branch of the carried on Žírovnice, they use 180 tons of shells in the production of 360.000 gross of buttons and the yearly aggregate earnings amount to ₤ 1500.

 

PIPE MAKING

 

The almost constant companion of „selfish man“, the pipe, is made in all sizes, forms and materials, at Proseč, Záboř and several other villages. Within this limited area there are about 300 people employed in the various operations of pipe making. Over a hundred different kinds are made,—from the simple common clay—to beautiful porcelain, artistically fashioned wood and art-work in carved meerschaum. Amongst the woods used, first in order, stands alderwood which is in greatest demand, ebony from India or Ceylon, briarroot and birchwood from Poland and Sweden. The higher grades of pipes are lined with meerschaum or porcelain.

A fair workman earns on an average 1 s 8 d per day, and his products are sold at 11 d, 5 s, to 12 s or even as much as ₤ 1·5. per doz. Of course, the most expensive are the beautifully carved specimes executed by men who in their way are first-class artists.

The pipe-maker employes other artisans who make the lids, fittings of nickel, brass and other metals. In Proseč and its vicinity, more than 50.000 doz. are made.

For some time past there has been an endeavour made to improve the condition of the pipe-makers by the introduction of labor-saving machines so as to free the men from the drudgery of the work, and by means of special instruction to the carvers to raise the standard of quality higher than in the past. These experiments, so far as they have gone, have been successful and so the quality of the work and the labour-conditions of the men go on improving.

 

TOYS ETC.

 

The requirements of the nursery and play-room are many and most varied in form and colour. Many of the toys not only entertain the young folks but assist in their instruction. In this field of labour the march of improvement goes as steadily on as in any concerned with the wants of the big relations of the little people. Beautiful dolls are made in plenty for future mothers. Gallant troops mounted and foot, with artillery are provided for our coming wariors. Ships for our captains and admirals that are to be, and complete noah’s arks for our budding zoologists. In fact our village workers in the toy branch of home industry provides everything necessary for the amusement and unconscious instruction of the children.

The toy-makers dispose of their work in large quantities at small prices to dealers who deal the goods throughout Bohemia and Moravia or export them to Lower Austria, Styria and Hungary. As in the case of so many home industries, winter, is the time when toy-making is in full swing, whole families working together, and the child must be very young whose aid can be dispensed with. The division of this kind of labour is very marked. There are families who only make birds, others confine themselves to dolls and so on, by this special attention to particular toys, the makers get to be exceptionally expert in the manufacture of the article of their choice.

The districts chiefly concerned with the toy trade are Krouna and Dědová (East Bohemia) where they also make several household articles such kitchen utensils of wood, ladles, twirlingsticks, rolling-puis etc.

In the district of Přeštice (S. W. Bohemia) there are about sixty families who confine themselves to the making of a very primitive kind of toys, but they are cheap and always in demand.

In the matter of remuneration, a man and wife working from 14 to 16 hours a day earn from 5 s. 4 d. to 7 s. 6 d. per week. Certainly money well earned.

Of course there are other places than those already mentioned where this industry is carried on, we would refer in conclusion to the forest districts of the Šumava where wood being plentiful toys of that material are produced in very large quantities to meet a never-failing demand.

 

BEAD-MAKING.

 

Beads might be described as a worl-wide requirement, for the dusky maidens of Asia and Africa are no less appreciative of this variety of personal adornment than their fair sisters of the occident. Their use is of great antiquity for they are found in the most ancient of the Egyptian tombs.

That the making of such things should be undertaken by Bohemians whose glass-making in other forms is famous, was but natural and presented no difficulies to the villagers who adopted the trade.

It is in the districts of NOVÁ PAKA and KRÁLOVÉ DVŮR (Königinhof) an area of about 70 km. that this industry is carried on. In these parts there are over 1200 persons employed in this branch of glass blowing. The rule is, for the master to buy the glass tubes from the works in Bohemia or Moravia and to sell them in the required quantities to the journeymen. White beads, are made in the largest quantities, and to watch the operations of the workmen is most interesting and instructive. The men sit at tables furnished with a blowing apparatus to which are fitted pipes for blowing the flame of the lamp upon the glass. By means of the pointed flame; which can be easily regulated by the operator, the glass-blower on getting his material heated to the required degree, draws the tube until he gets it to the thickness wanted for the particular bead in hand; and which may be any of the sizes known in the trade by numbers 00 to 20, these correspond with the fixed number of millimeters of the diameter of the bead. The thin tube is then cut into short pieces, to blow these, the man closes one end of the tube by melting it in the flame, he then blows a ball of the required size and by a second operation of blowing, makes a hole in the ball and severs the finished bead with a specially formed knife. These beads vary in form, oval and flat as well as round are made for hair and hat-pins. A flat kind is also produced by a quick touch of the bare finger on the glowing soft glass. A workmen sitting in the low room of his timber hut can blow any number from 3000 to 6000 in a day, after which during the evening hours, he goes on with the work of sorting and weighing.

For a thousand beads a journeyman gets; according to class of goods, from 2½ to 5 d. After deducting his expenses the average earnings of a workman amount to 1 s 5 d for a day of not less than 10 hours.

By means of a special colouring substance beads are made closely imitate real pearls. This and colouring operations generally, is done for the most part in Vienna.

Some of the master bead-makers, manage the commercial side of the business themselves and deal directly with the houses in Vienna, but as a rule this part of the trade is in the hands of about 42 dealers large and small who forward the goods to Vienna from whence they are exported to all parts of the world.

The exhibits of the PRŮMYSLOVÉ MUSEUM PODKRKONOŠSKÉ V HOŘICÍCH gives a good idea of the work of this industry

 

KID GLOVE MANUFACTURING.

 

In the manufactures of Prague that of glove making, is one the most important, giving employment to 1532 journeymen and 260 apprentices.

The glove is, both from its history and symbolic importance, one of the most interesting of all articles of dress. From time immemorial the glove possessed a legal significance in oriental countries in the forms, practised in the transfer of property. In feudal times the challenge to single combat was given by the casting down of the knightly glove, but this war-like „glove fashion“ has long since given place to others of a more friendly, comfortable, and frequently tender kind as when a gentleman selects such useful articles to present to a young lady as a sign of his warm regard and desire for her friendship—in other words to be „hand-and-glove“ with her. But, most people appreciate a good glove, and it is such an article of approved excellence, that we desire to direct the attention of the glove-wearing visitors to the section of the Bohemian gloves exporters in the Austrian exhibition at Earl’s Court.

Glove-making in workshops large and small, is the rule in Prague, but as a home industry it has been carried on since 1865, in Dobříš, Příbram, Březové Hory, Hostomice and Rožmitál. The leather is cut in Prague, and sent by the great manufacturers to agents in the towns, who distribute it amongst the needle-women; some of whom only do a part of the glove, others with the assistance of members of her family complete the glove in all its parts and deliver the finished article to the agent who in turn hands them to the manufacturer. „Kid“ gloves are of two principal kinds, glacé and Suède, according to the manner of dressing and finishing the leather used. Glacé gloves are those which are dressed, dyed, and polished on the hair or outer side of the skin, while Suède gloves are carefully pared and smoothed ,and dayed on the inner side of the skin for their purpose, and thus present the appearance of fine Chamois.

The annual production amounts to 730.000 dozens, valued at ₤ 600.000.

A girl working 2 hours a day at „tambour“ work can make from five to six dozens of gloves for which she receives from 1 s. to 1 s. 2 d., so that the average earnings are 5 s. 10 d. per week. But this is not the finished article, they have to be sewn, bodered and the button-holes made and buttons sewn on. There is a mode of stitching peculiar to several places, thus at Dobříš the „back stitch prevails, while at Hostomic“ the danish stitch is the rule.

At Příbram, sewing machines are much in evidence, with its aid, the leather is quickly sewn, then speedily the glove is hemmed, button-holed and furnished with buttons.

In the district of Beroun, Dobříš, Hořovice, Blatná and Příbram, quite an army of women are employed at this work, their numbers being from 10 to 11.000.

There are many German manufacturers who give out work in these districts, the agents providing the sewing-machines on certain terms and keep them in working order. The export trade is chiefly to Germany and England.

We may here say that all the gloves undergo close inspection by women specially qualified for the duty. The manufacturers are not only desirous of maintaining their good reputation, but strive to add to it by increased care in the supervision of the work in its several stages and by technical lectures which they have induced the Technological Industrial Museum of the Chamber of Commerce and trades to arrange. These educational efforts already have produced good results and encourages us to hope that this trade will continue to grow and florish!

 

BASKET WORK.

 

The district of Mělník is the centre of the basket-making industry, one of the most interesting branches of Bohemian home-made products. It was started about the year 1820, whon the managers of the Domain conceived the idea of making a profitable use of the willows that grow so freely on the flat banks of the Labe and Vltava (Elbe and Moldau), and at the same time provide the peasantry of the district, by means of supplementing their scanty earnings derived from agricultural labour.

The beginning was a very modest one, only two at first were set to the work; but as time went on others took it up untill at the present day there are 300 persons employed in „the weawing of the willows“. The workers reside in the villages in the vicinity of Mělník and are spread over a considerable area.

There is great variety as to size and form of the specialities of the trade, amongst their are, the weary nurse’s friend in the form of a light and easily propelled baby car, hand and travelling baskets, hampers of many kinds, etc. About 3000 M. are worked up per year.

Wicker-work is very largely produced, the chief demand for articles of this special kind comes at present from Austria and Hungary, but it is the hope of the workers that Great Britain and her Colonies will in the near future, fake first place in the ranks of their esteemed customers.

That the authorities are desirous that a high standard of workmanship be mantained, is evident from the fact that instruction in the art of basket-making is compulsory in the special school established at Mělník by the government. Dealers generally make their purchases during the winter when prices are favourable for the buyer, they often succeed in getting baskets in the cold season at 3 d. and selling them in the summer at 9 d per basket, a very handsome profit indeed.

Wicker-work of a very superior kind is made at Zbraslav (Königsaal) near to Prague, and at Křivoklát (Pürglitz). Of recent years a successful endeavour has been made to secure for the workers a better return for their labour than the visiting dealer has been accustomed to give.

This has been accomplished through the agency of an industrial company having branches throughout the district. Sales are now arranged by the company of the articles made by the country people who are now reaping the advantages of properly organized commercial effort.

 

WEAVING.

 

There is no doubt that weaving is the industry which most prevails throughout Bohemia. As an art, even in its simplest form, it demands a certain amount of manual dexterity combined with some mechanical skill; and therefore, although one of the most ancient fundamental of human industries, its practice implies some amount of knowledge and civilization.

The textile skill of any people, has in all ages been a measure of their culture and advancement. The recognition of those simple facts enable us to appreciate the proofs of the intelligence and skill of our home-workers as exhibited in products of their cottage-looms.

In this industry scattered amongst a great number of villages, places such as Broumov, Náchod, Chotěboř and others too numerous to mention, 30,000 men are employed, the majority being engaged in the production of a common quality of linen or cotton goods.

The same kind of work is also carried on in the south and southwest of the kingdom, there; as in the other parts mentioned, the winter is the busy time for the loom, as the men resume their agricultural labour in the latter part of spring and generally throughout the summer. Even the combined earnings of summer and winter cannot amount to much, that the remuneration is not altogether satisfactory is evidenced by the large number of young men who have left the districts and emigrated in the hope of bettering their condition in foreign lands.

As in other countries, Bohemia has her factories, large establishments with power looms, spinning machinery and all the usual modern contrivances for securing rapid production. But even these modern concerns furnish the home-workers with a considerable amount of profitable employment by giving out jobs suitable for the cottage weaver and spinner. This is of course an arrangement of a mutually advantageous kind. The factory owners are not simple philanthropists, but some commercial men who act according to the principle underlying the well know saying that „business is business“. Indeed, they take particular care that the good name of their establishments does not suffer from the faulty execution of the work entrusted to the hands of the home workers. On return of the finished goods, the material is examined with the aid of a strong magnifying glass by an inspector at the factory, to see if the proper number of threads have been worked into the square centimeter. It is also measured and weighed; and if there be fault or deficiency: a fair amount is deducted from the sum allowed for a perfect job. However, much to the credit of our village weavers, cases of faulty workmanship are „few and far between“.

In the north district, an expert workman earns from 4 s 2 d to 5 s per week when making oxford shirtings or canvass and 4 s 2 d for towel-work; while on table linen, he can earn as much as 10 s per week.

In the district of Landskroun, the weavers work under very unfavourable conditions, hard description of material to weave and a twelve hours working day. Weaving fustian, a man frequently will only earn 2 s 1 d per week. In the production of linen linings, sack or sail-cloth even the most expert workman rarely gets more than 5 s for his week's labour.

Weavers of textiles for upholstery or furniture work get 6 s 8 d to 16 s 8 d per week. These goods are chiefly exported to Germany, Italy, the Balkan peninsula and China.

These poor toilers stick to their native soil, feeling isolated, living in a little world of their own, they know nothing of the great outer world, and exhibit little energy. If contentment be a virtue, then they possess it, if it be „great gain“ as the proverb teaches, then they have won it. Even in specially hard times they seem to fortify themselves with the very spirit of contentment and together-husband, wife and children bear their burden of cares bravely.

 

PILLOW-LACE MAKING.

 

The „pillow in ordinary“, is recognized and generally appreciated as an aid to repose. The pillow extraordinary, and which is most in evidence in the district of Žamberk and its immediate neighbourhood, is anything but an article suggestive of restful moments; rather is it the foundation upon which very beautiful work is dexterously executed by nimble fingers, and which necessitates a decidelly „wide-awake“ condition amongst the pillow owners.

The town of Vamberk is where the lace industry was first introduced in Bohemia at the beginning of the 17 th century by the Lady Magdalen de Meldeg a native of Belgium. The present pillow-lace branch of our home industries, is the revival of a trade which for a long time had suffered from neglect. In 1897, it was decided to resuscitate the old art and endeavour to put new life into it. Results have justified the action of those who led; and directed the movement. The primary object, to improve the condition of the people by providing work for the naturally intelligent and industriously disposed peasantry, has been attained, and the success achieved is the best possible proof of the excellent qualities of Bohemian Pillow-lace.

In the centre of the trade, more than a thousand workers are engaged in the production of this special kind of lace, in as much as there are 693 adult females and 320 girls kept busy.

They can earn 6 d—1 s 4 d or 4 d to 6 d per day. Very expert adults can make 9 d—1 s 8 d for a day’s labour.

The laces are disposed of to dealers in Vamberk who export chiefly to Germany and America.

The materials used in the work are the best that can be had in the leading markets. The finest yarn is imported from Belgium, while the rich silks come from Switzerland and France.

Amongst the many styles produced, one of the most characteristic is the „vláčková krajka“ in which the design is bordered by a special „Cordonnet“. This is chiefly exported to Gallicia and the Russian part of Poland.

There are no less than twenty schools in this district in which lace making is taught compulsorily, a practical proof of the government’s desire for the improvement of the people and the maitenance of a light standard of excellence in their productions.

Vamberk lace is made either of linen or cotton which is the material used in making „vláčková krajka“. The laces are sold through Austria-Hungary and the Orient by pedlars, but this old-fashioned way of doing business is gradually giving place to the more up-to-date methods of the modern world of commerce.

In 1889, the city corporation founded a municipal school for the purpose of improving the lace-makers methods, so as to raise the standard of the art-work and enable the lace-makers to increase their daily production without adding further strain on their physical powers.

Vamberk has about 1000 engaged in the work (600 pillows), and throughout the district a total of 3000 (2600 pillows). The proof of the general spread of this industry, is in the fact, that out of 450 schoolchildren, 270 girls and 92 boys are employed in it.

The earnings of a child under fourteen years of age who is bound to attend school amount to 3½ d—4 d per day for work done in leisure hours. A smart hand can make much as 1 s 5 d but many barely contrive to get 3—4 d for their day’s work.

The value of the year’s production is about ₤ 10.000 a fairly big total which promises to go on increasing.

Sedlice near Blatná, and Strážov close to Klatov in the S. W. of Bohemia now claim a brief reference. Pillow-lace making has been practised in these villages and their vicinity for a great number of years, in Sedlice there are two hundred engaged in the industry. The women, who are chiefly employed, are very much indebted to the lady of the domain, Mrs Stránecká for her active and practical benevolence. This lady has been a generous patron of the industry who has exorted herself in the interests of the humble workers and the prosperity generally by showing the importance of preserving tasteful designs of antique form and at the same time keep on bringing out novelties.

The motto that this lady appears in a practical manner to recommend to those engaged in the beautiful work of Pillow-lace making is EXCELSIOR!

And this with the assistance of kind friends, like Mrs. Stránecká, the goverment and municipal schools, and the one founded by the „Pošumavská jednota“ (union for promoting Bohemian-Forest districts) there is every reason to hope, that the present high standard of excellence in Bohemian Pillow-lace will not simply be maintained, but that its improvement go on continuously.

 

HAIR-WORK.

 

Like all trades concerned with the requirements of dress or adornment, particularly as to the wants of the ladies, that of the hair-worker is affected from time to time by change of fashion. What a glorious thing for our village workers employed in this business if the wig-weaving custom was again in favour, or the 18th. century fashion revived with its art and artful contrivances commonly used in dressing the hair of both ladies and gentlemen. Even the reappearance of the „chignon“ would from the trade point of view, be welcome. As it is our hair-workers are kept pretty busy with the present-day’s needs of the fashionable and every-day world. Wigs for those to whom nature has been unkind; with others in endless variety for the operatic and dramatic stage—Hair nets; which when in wear are invisible, „frisettes“ and other dainty little aids to hair-dressing, indeed our village hair-workers are equal to producing any possible wants of the professional hair-dresser, or the private requirements of ladies and gentlemen.

In the Chrudim and Chotěboř districts in the S. E of Bohemia, as many as 600 workers are employed, chiefly by two local dealers and the agents of several Vienna houses who send their orders in for the most part in winter, and so the villagers are enabled to earn money in the season when they have plenty of time for engaging in this indoor labour.

The material, human hair, is supplied by dealers from various parts of Bohemia, Moravia, Lower Austria, Tyrol and Hungary, in addition to these sources of supply, a large quantity is imported from China through the agency of houses in Hamburg, Bremen and Trieste. The agents assort the hair into the several qualities recognised in the trade and deliver it to the merchant at 5 s 10 d, 16 s 8 d to 41 s 8 d per kilogram. The merchant then has the hair assorted according to length, colour, and softness, and sells it to the hair-workers at from 13 s 4 d to 51 s 2 d per kilogram. Before being used, the hair is thoroughly disinfected with sulphur, then it is washed in a solution of sal amoniac to extract the natural colour after which it is dried and artificially coloured. Next, it is submitted to a second washing, dried, combed and sorted in lengths.

The pay for making hair-nets varies according to the closeness of the meshes from 1—12½ d to 1 s 2 d per doz. A steady expert worker can earn 3 d, 4 d and at the most 6 d for a day’s labour, the payment is not always in cash, but frequently in kind.

The earnings of the curl-makers amount to about the same as those in the net branch, which is certainly not sufficient to enable the humble village workers to enjoy many of the luxuries of life.

 

GLASS RINGS, BUTTONS ETC.

 

In 1880, the glass-making trade was established in Jablonec (Gablonz) and its vicinity. From the first start, until the present time, the business has grown steadily and now the industry is recognised as one of considerable importance.

The rings are made of colowred glass and ornamented in a variety of ways to suit the taste prevailing in such distant markets as India, Egypt, Syria and N. Africa. The polishing process is performed in the districts of Semil and Turnov. Glass buttons are also manufactured in large quantities.

About thirty dealers employ in the aggregate, about a thousand „hands“, some as „outworkers“ and others in the employer’s workshops. The value of a year’s production averages ₤ 83.000.

In making the rings, the polisher takes a large glass tube („pot“) which he cuts into rings on a special cutting lathe, the rough surface pattern be required, it is first rough-cut on the wheel and polished on a fine sandstone wheel. The rings are then enameled and annealed to impart the requisite lustre and toughness.

The principal seats of this industry, are Frydstein, Železný Brod (Eisenbrod), Držkov.

The making of glass buttons is also very interesting to watch in the various stages of the work. First the operator takes a rod of glas and heats it at a glass blower’s lamp until it is in a sufficiently plastic condition to be pressed into a mould of the required size and pattern, after which they are carefully finished according to the special need of the button in hand, for there is a great variety, some kinds for gentlemen’s fancy vests and many sorts suitable for ladies costumes.

This branch of the trade depending so much on fashions which are continually changing, fluctuates very much, and so the earnings of the workers are far from being steady, varying according to the state of the markets for this particular form of glass ware, from 8 s 5 d to 14 s 2 d per week.

It is not generally known that glass can be used in the production of ladies satchels, but such is the fact, and many elegant kinds of this form of „lady’s friend“ are fashioned by the skillful hands of our glass workers who amongst other ornamental and useful articles, make, small chains, pretty strings of glass work; and charming belts for girls and young ladies.

 

RUSH PLAITING.

 

Plaiting provides employment for some 800 people in Bakov nad Jizerou (Bakow a. I.).

There is great variety in the form and use of rush productions. Bath slippers, light shoes, caps and helmets for tropical wear, wall mats, hand-bags and many other useful articles.

As in the case of other Bohemian home industries, the winter is the season when the rush plaiters are busy; as out-door labour claims the attention of many of the villagers in the seasons favourable for agricultural operations.

The control of the trade is in the hands of three dealers who do a large business, and about twenty others in a smaller way in the plait trades. They supply the material to the workers and pay for the labour. They also sell the finished articles and act as agents for the merchants who do large export trade; chiefly to Germany and America. The requirements of the foreign markets absorb about two thirds of the entire production of the district, the other third represents the home trade.

It is very interesting to observe the operations of plaiting so smartly performed by our village workers. First, the fibres of the plants are plaited to form strands about two foot long, assorted according to quality, bound in bundles and labeled. In the making of hand-bags, some are plaited on wooden blocks which give the form, in other cases the strands are hand-sewn.

For making articles of this kind, the worker gets for one of ordinary quality 1½ d. These of higher quality and tasteful finish are paid at the rate of 11 d per bag. A pair of common shoes realizes for the plaiter 1 d, while the better kinds commands 7 d, or more, while helmets for the tropics bring the maker from 5 to 6 d each.

In this industry whole families take part, the men assisting the wives when they return from their daily labour in other trades. The children are taken to the work at a very early age; and their assistance is not to be despised, the household motto would appear to be „in unity there is strength“, indeed it is absolutely necessary for all to help, as the possible earnings at best are very low. To plait a strand 50 yards long of three cords, an expert man must work at least three hours and only earns from 1 d to 1½ d. A great drawback is the increasing price of raw material which is supplied from the south part of Bohemia where there are large fish ponds, consequently it is difficult to produce the goods to compete with the products of other countries more favourably circumstanced as to cost of material. However, things are improving, thanks to a considerable extent to the good, resulting from the instruction in improved methods of working imparted at the model workshop founded by the government, it gives us reason to anticipate a continuance of improvement.

 

NAIL MAKING.

 

There is a great change come over the nail industry which at one time flourished in Hostomice, Rožmitál, Hořovice, Zbirov, Mýto and their districts; where in the old days 2000 hands were employed, there are now only from 600 to 700 engaged in turning out all kinds of nails and tacks; from those suitable for light shoes, to hobnails for the hunter or alpine climber. The wants of the carpenter and others in the building trades are many and varied as to size and form. It would be difficult to say how many business require a good assortment of nails to complete their equipment. And so the humble nail maker provides for the needs of little children's shoes, which certainly is a peaceful requirement, or supplies the wants of the gun carriage builder; which is suggestive of war.

The reduction in the numbers of those employed is easily accounted for, the trade suffers as all manual labour must do from the factory products made with labour and time-saving machinery; Hand workers find it difficult to stand such competetion.

In making nails by hand, the „nailer“ heats the end of the nail-rod at his small forge, and brings it into the form of the spike of a nail by a few strokes of his hammer on the anvil. It is then cut to any required length on a chisel, leaving it still attached to the rod. Dropping it next into one of two holes in a „bolster“ and detaching it from the rod the „nailer“ forms the head from the projecting end by a few more strokes of the hammer, and then the nails is finished . Dies or „swages“ are required for the heads of ornamental nails.

The earnings of the nail maker run from 5 s to 8 s 4 d per week, that is for small ware, and from 6 s 8 d to 16 s 8 d for larger sorts. But the hours are long, 12 hours of hard work is what the nailer has to perform for but a small wage. No doubt they believe that „half a loaf is better than none“, and so in the cold season when carpenters, bricklayers and others whose trades are slack in winter, fill in their time in the nail-making industry. In Mýto they make a variety of very useful tools, hammers of all kinds and sizes, tongs for trade or household use, chisels and other requiremets of the skilled mechanic. These articles in addition to chains made at Liboc near Prague, are for the most part exported to Hungary and the Balkan peninsula.

 

SHOE-MAKING.

 

In Bohemia the work of shoe-making is largely carried on in well equipped modern factories, but there are still great numbers of people who carry out all the operations of shoe-making in their homes, and while boots and shoes that are made chiefly by machinery have many good points, the hand-made shoe holds its own in the two main essentials of good foot-wear, combined solidity and elasticity, qualities not always present in the machine made article.

The majority of the home-workers do business with the local dealers; or get employment from factories in the mmediate neighbourhood where they give out work. There iis a certain amount of business done with the agents of houses in Vienna, Pesth and other large towns; for the good reputation of our workers in leather is well known troughout the empire!

The district of Mnichovo Hradiště, Litomyšl, Vysoké Mýto, Pardubice, Rychnov, Chrudim, Králové Hradec are the homes of about 4000 shoe-makers who turn out goods to the value of ₤ 266.276 per year. Large quantities are exported to England, France, Germany, Denmark, the Netherlands and to the Orient, the latter is a market having special requirements which our workers evidently satisfy, as our orders from eastern lands go on increasing. There is no doubt, that the future prosperity of our workers depends mainly on the expansion of our export business. Their wage-earning power is very moderate. The division of labour in this industry is carried to the extreme. The workmen are paid so much per pair, and labour from early morning until late at night, a 16 hour working day for the workmen, his family, apprentices and occasionally others who are journeymen assistants, is quite common in the shoe-making districts. This calls for reform, let us hope that is may be our good fortune to carry back a remedy from England.

In the preceding articles on Bohemian home industries, we have dealt with the trades separately, and having; as we hope, succeeded in showing how the home-work custom prevails all over the kingdom, we would now by a list of manufactures and the names of towns and districts associated with particular products, supplement the information already furnished.

Gloves, Linen ware, Bodices, Cravats, Umbrellas, Dolls: PRAGUE.

Linen-ware. . . . . . . . . . . KLATOVY

Leather-work, Saddlery, Straps etc. Files, Sieves and other wire-work small implements, Kitchen utensils and other useful articles for the household: CHRUDIM, NOVÉ STRAŠECÍ.

Brushes: JABLONNÉ, RYCHNOV.

Thread buttons: ŽAMBERK, LANŠKROUN.

Glass beads, Memorial wreathes rosaires etc.: PŘÍBRAM,

Mouth pieces of rotau and quills for cigar tubes: CHRAST.

Portemonnaies and tobacco pouches: TŘEBECHOVICE.

Machine, Knitted articles: JINDŘICHUV HRADEC (Neuhaus), TŘEBOŇ, PELHŘIMOV, NĚMECKÝ BROD, TÁBOR, PÍSEK, NOVÁ PAKA, DOMAŽLICE.

Matchboxes: HOŘOVICE.

Plain stitch embroideries: KASEJOVICE.

Stockings: NOVÁ PAKA.

Cardboard boxes: DOMAŽLICE.

Tin ware: SVRATKA, RYCHMBURK.

Straw covers for bottles, House utensils, Root-made boxes: BOHUMILEC.

Hard-wood ware: HORŠŮV TÝN.

Silk colanders and fine hair-nets: ŽELECHY.

We trust that the foregoing list may be found useful for reference, because it is our hope that many who visit Earl’s Court and examine our home work productions will see that it is to their interest to accord to us their patronage. We have directed attention to the systematic endeavours that we are making in Bohemia, by government and municipal schools, as well as by the help of philantropic ladies and gentlemen, to educate our people and provide them with something beyond the ordinary mental equipment, by giving them a course of sound technical instruction by means of which our workers will be able; not only to maintain their present good reputation but to increase it and merit the highest commendation of all who having bought of our wares, and put to them to the test, show practical satisfaction by a repeat order of increased amount. This is our hopeful anticipation, its realization, depends upon our new friends and customers whom we invite to Earl’s Court where we promise them a hearty welcome.

K. Burda.

 

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