Life in the Old World

by Fredrika Bremer

CONTENTS.

FIRST STATION.
First day's journey—Entrance into Switzerland—Morning at Berne—Evening at Enghe—That which the Alps and the Sun said to me—Thun—The Titans when seen more nearly—A bath in the Aar—Queen Bertha—Arrival at Lausanne—Chilly days—New acquaintance—Picture of the Confederate States of Switzerland—“Des Terneaux” Chapel—The Free Church—Questions and Cogitations which led me to Switzerland—A. Vinet—Sketch of Lausanne and its everyday life—“A la Montagne!”	33
SECOND STATION.
Rossinières—Our large Beehive—Life in the high valleys—The footpath—The young girls and the Sunday-school—Chateau-d'Œx—My Chateau—The meeting at La Lechevette—Rambles in the Alpine valleys—La Comballez—Les Ormondes—Père Ansermez—The Folk-life of the high valleys—The Free Church—The Church of the future—The Idea of Protestantism	74
THIRD STATION.
Hasli valley and the Swedish emigrants—Rosenlaui—Grimsel—Gloomy scene—The source of the Rhone—The Forest Cantons—Grutli and its heroes—Life in Schwytz—Two types of Conservatism—Sunday on Rhigi—Nicholas de Flue—Life in Zürich—Einsiedeln, its pilgrims and teachers—Zwingli—My home in Zürich—Journey to Basle—Missionary Institution and Missionaries	114
FOURTH STATION.
From Basle to Brussels—That which took me there—Le Congrès International de Bienfaisance—The New Exposition—Conversation with King Leopold—“The Little Sisters of the Poor.”—Festivals and Ideas of the Future in Belgium—Ghent and the Beguines—Lace Making—Bruges—Flanders—A House in the Country—Ruysselede and Bernhem—Antwerp—Rubens' House—A Glance at Holland—A Statesman—Journey to Paris	208
FIFTH STATION.
Paris at the present time, and Paris thirty years ago—Prado—Valentino—“La Salpétriére.”—The Evangelical Church—The Deaconess-Institution—“Revue Chrétienne”—Statue of Joan d'Arc—An Attic and a Happy Couple—The Emperor and France	238
SIXTH STATION.
Again in Switzerland—Railway Irregularities—Vintage at Montreux—Romantic Illusions—New Acquaintance—The First Prisoner of Uri—Winter Residence at Lausanne—War and Peace in Switzerland—Still Life—New Life and New Interests—Young Italy—Its Patriots and Poets—“Risorgimento d'Italia”—The Waldenses in Piedmont—New Plans for my Journey—I must see Italy—Spring Life at Lausanne—Educational Institute—A. Vinet	253
SEVENTH STATION.
In Geneva—Countess de Gasparin—Merle d'Aubigné. The Arve and Rhone—Mont Salève—The Hero of the Scene—Visit to the Workshops of Watch-makers—Women's Work—A Female Worker—Churches and Ecclesiastical Affairs—Intellectual Life—Geneva, the Paradise of Unmarried Women—Calvin's “Institutions”—Jargonaut—“The Living Water”—Domestic Life—A New Flower—An Old Calvinist—Old and New Geneva	287
EIGHTH STATION.
Neufchâtel—A Home upon the Heights—Charles Secretan—Flights—The Industrial High-valleys—La Chaux de Fonds—Locle and Travers—The Island of St. Piérre—Federal Festival at Berne—Again on Lake Leman—Chamouni and St. Bernard—Rest by “the living waters”—Last days in Switzerland—Monte Rosa—To Italy!	324
NINTH STATION.
Journey over the Simplon—Domo d'Ossola—Bad Weather—La Tosa—Unexpected Meeting—Lago Maggiore—“Stock-Fish”—Isola Bella and Isola Madre—The Valleys of the Waldenses; their People, History, Latest Deliverance, and Present Life—Rambles and New Friends—Turin—The Po and Monte Viso—Carlo Alberto—Victor Emanuel—Count de Cavour—Gioberti—Cesare Balbo—Primato d'Italia—Speranze d'Italia—What are the Wishes of Italy?	379

TENTH STATION.
A Week in Genoa—Folks-Life—Palaces—Italian Evangelical Church—Journey to Spezia—Glance over the Sardinian States—Pisa—Exterior of Hospitals—Pisa, formerly and at the present time—The Leaning Tower—Catharina Ferucci—La Donna Italiana—Rosa Ferucci—The Cathedral of San Piso—Florence—Life—Art—Beauty—La Specola—Galileo—La Tribuna—Tuscany as formerly, and at the present time—From Florence, by Sienna, to Rome	19
ELEVENTH STATION.
In Rome—First impression—First rambles in old and new Rome—The Pope—The last Judgment—Church Festivals—Drawing-room Life—Popular Life—Faith in Miracles—The Catacombs—A Poetess—Christmas-day in the Vatican—Child preachings—S. Paulo fuori de Mure—Attempt at Conversion—A little of Every thing—Close of the year 1857	73
TWELFTH STATION.
New Year's Thoughts—Romantic Preludes—Festal Life in Rome—Beggars—“Museo Christiano”—Evening in the Palazzo Farnese—Festival of the Propaganda—Cold and Catarrh—View from the Capitol—Carnival—La Grippe—Preparations for Lent—Pontifical Jubilee, and Pontifical Bill of Fare—Soirée at the Grants'—Cardinal Antonelli	125
THIRTEENTH STATION.
Trinita di Monte—Conversion—Audience of the Pope—A little about the Pope and St. Peter—The Grand-Duchess Helena—Four Cardinals—Conversation of a Nun—Lent Sermons—The Carmelite Monk—Père Marie Louis—The Drive to Frascati and Tivoli—The Holy Week—An Abjuration—Festival and Danger—Retraite i Sacré Cœur—Conversion-fight, in evil and in good—Still an Abjuration—Removal to the Capitol—New Life—Little discoveries and experiences—The Catholic Church during the month of May—My Resume—Departure from Rome	174
FOURTEENTH STATION.
Arrival at Naples—Eruption of Vesuvius—Life in Naples—Unexpected arrival at Ischia—Mrs. M. and Mr. N.—An enchanted Island—The Princess Elsa and Waldo—Romantic Days and Weeks—The King and Queen of Naples—The People on the Island—Sorrento—Love and Disquiet—Noble and Ignoble Love—Folks-Festival and Folks-Life—Our Domestic Life—Worship of the Virgin—The Prince of Syracuse—Days at Capri—Amalfi—Salerno—Pestum—Pompeii—Something enchanted—The Romance continued—How will it end?	317
FIFTEENTH STATION.
The Miracle of San Gennaro—The Royal Family of Naples—Museo Borbonico—The Minister of the Interior, Bianchini—The Inner Life of Naples—The Innermost—Benevolent Institutions—The Handsome Nuns—System of Government in Naples—Excursion to Caserta and Portici—Villa Reale and the comet—The Folks-Theatre of Naples—New Acquaintance—New Troubles—The Prince of Villa Ambrosa—The Princess Elsa—A Day in Pompeii—Magnanimity and Despair—Rapid Journey to Sicily and—The End	408