Oregon Historical Quarterly/Volume 26/Journal of the First Expedition of Pierre Gaultier, Sieur de La Verendrye to the Mandan Villages on the Missouri

by Pierre Gaultier de Varennes

Journal of the First Expeditionn of Pierre Gaultier, Sieur de La Verendrye to the Mandan Villages on the Missouri

[Translation from the French by Douglas Brymner, Archivist]

Journal in the form of a letter, from the 20th of July, 1738, date of my departure from Michilimakinak, to May 1739, sent to the Marquis de Beauharnois, Commander of the Military Order of St. Louis, Governor and Lieutenant General of the whole of New France, lands and country of Louisiana, by his very humble servant La Verendrye, lieutenant of a company of the detachment of the marine in Canada, commissioned by his orders for the discovery of the Western Sea.

I had the honor, Sir, last year to notify you of my departure from Michilimakinak in six canoes, twenty-two men, so fitted out as to be capable of making great speed. I reached the flat lands on the morning of the first of August, the twelfth day after leaving. I stopped there about three hours to speak to the Indians as your representative. I found there only the chief of the Gamanestigouya, a few old and a few young people. I had already known that they had all left to go among the Sioux. I caused to be assembled what men there were, made them a present of tobacco and wheat, which they value more than merchandise, which is given to them cheap. I began my speech by finding fault with them for going to war against the word they had given me last year when passing among them, to undertake nothing till my return; that I brought them your word that you were not for the present inclined to have war; that every one should keep quiet on his lands; that you had your reasons for this; you would have them warned if you required their services. I then communicated news about which they are very curious.

The chief answered me at once: My father, be not vexed with us; parties have been raised against our will. It is the Canard (Duck, Indian name of M. LaPlante) who wished it, to tell the truth, speaking with fine presents from our father, which thou seest here with us. We did not wish to listen, expecting thy return; we are not children to have two words; thou hast been long with us; thou shouldst know us; we have always been attached to our father; we shall always be so. I encouraged them in these good dispositions, to listen after this only to chiefs entrusted with your orders, to hunt well in order to supply the wants of their families, that the French would bring your bounty to them upon their own land. I bade them adieu, wishing to take advantage of the good weather for the rest of the day.

I arrived on the 5th at Gamanestigouya.^[1] I had your orders published and left a copy with the French who keep the fort, concerning that post and that of Tekamamihouenne, to be handed to M. de la Marque, who was to arrive there at an early day. I left on the morning of the 6th, and went to the Lake Tekamamihouenne.^[2] On the 22nd of the present month I found a war chief, Monsony, with a small band, who was expecting me near the little strait on the lake. They begged me to camp early to give them the news. I did so and made them a present in your name, read to them the replies which you had had the goodness to make to their speeches to keep quiet for the present, to take good care of their lands, so that the French, who came from so long a distance to supply their wants, should always find the road open. The chief answered me: I thank thee, my father, for having had pity on us. I will carry the news to all our people, who are gone for wild rice; I will make them joyful at thy return and in relating to them the will of our father, with the words thou hast brought and the account which the old man has given me, as well of our father as of all he has seen below. Thou wilt find many people at thy Fort of Lake of the Woods,^[3] all the chiefs expect thee. In finishing my speech to them, I recommended them to continue faithful to the French, not ta forget your words, to hunt well, so as to satisfy the traders. He answered with loud acclamations of gratitude, assuring me that he would never forget all that I had told him. I did my best to encourage him and went to Fort St. Charles, Lake of the Woods.

On the 31st^[4] I did not find Lacolle, chief of the Monsony; I sent to notify him. Wishing to speak to all the chiefs together, I deferred speaking to them till the 3rd of September, when I collected all the headmen in my room and made a present in your name to the three chiefs, Lacolle, Lamicoine and leChenail, of whom I have several times spoken in my previous journals. I began by the answers to their speeches, which you had had the goodness to make, emphasizing strongly each paragraph, in order to make them understand the (kindness) you felt for them; that all (you) had allowed them was well assured to them, so long as they on their side should be obedient to your word. I knew that the old man whom I had brought with me, entrusted with their words, although with empty hands, had made a faithful report to them of the kindness (you) had shown him; he constantly sang your praises; that they had a good father, who should be pleased by doing his will. LaColle answered for all the others, that he did not cease to weep for my son and all the French men; that the lake was still red with their (blood), which called for vengeance, which he had not been able to take as he wished. It was not for them, people without intellect, to ask your reasons for keeping them quiet for the present; that they were obedient children; agreed to your will; would keep their lands as you ordered them, still hoping that you would obtain vengeance at some future time for the miserable stroke the Sioux had made on their lands. However, you were the master to punish or to pardon; that he thanked you in the name of all and prayed you to acknowledge them as your true children; that they would always be faithful to us; you ordered them to keep their lands; that was to their interest.

Lamicoine gave profuse thanks for the great care I had had of his brother. It was from the old man whom I had brought with me that he had learned he would never see him more, begging me to assure you of his gratitude; that whilst he lived he would not forget the good you had done to his brother; that it would be for him and his to be always attached to the French; that my return had brought joy to all; that their joy would not be long continued, as according to what his brother had told him, I was going to winter a long way off; that he prayed me not to abandon them; if I wished to go far away from them, to leave one of my children; that he wished it was in his power to follow me; that he would do so heartily; that his brother and his nephew who expected to follow me, would take his place. I encouraged them to keep their word and to hunt well to supply the wants of their families; that I was going further on; that was your will; I wished to increase the number of your children; that I left my eldest son with them in my place, who was adopted by the nations and would inform them *of your words The council ended with many thanks. I then thought of preparing to leave; had my son received as commandant in my absence, and had an order published. Taking the two others with me, I deferred leaving until the 11th of September, waiting for Mr. la Marque, to whom I had promised not to hasten so as to give him the opportunity of joining me, he having promised me at Michilimakinak to make haste, so that he might come with me in the autumn for the discovery of the Mandans, who were formerly called Ouachipouanne, according to the Monsony, Courtchouatte, Crees, Mandans: these are the names of the nation.

Seeing on the 10th of the month that he had not arrived, and everything being in good order, as well at the fort as for my departure, I left on the 11th, as I have already stated, hoping that he would join me soon to come with me. I arrived at Fort Marpas (Maurepas)^[5] on the 22nd, where I had the arms examined, published your orders concerning the said post, gave a copy of it to Mr. Larivière, clerk to these gentlemen, and selected five of his men to come with me. As I had agreed, I left nine men with Mr. de Larivière. I went to the fork of the Asiliboiles (Assiniboine)^[6] on the 24th, where I found ten Cree huts and two war chiefs, who expected me, with a quantity of meat, having been notified that I was coming. They begged me to agree to remain, to have the pleasure of seeing us and of giving us something to eat. I agreed, being happy to speak to them. I sent for the two chiefs to my tent. I knew that they went every year to the English; it had been reported to me that there was one who had received a belt from the English to play a bad trick on the French. I told the one who had been accused, everything that had been said of him. I had the honor of writing to you last year from Michilimakinak: of the rumors current on the subject. He answered: My father, I know there are many envious men who speak against me; I have not been to the English for more than six years. I sent, indeed, during the last years that the French abandoned us, and it was necessary to have our wants supplied. Ask those who have been on my account, who are here, if they heard of any such accusation. I can assure thee the Englishman is quiet and does not speak of the French. They are liars who have set these rumors afloat. Thou wilt know the truth in time. So long as the French hold our lands here, we promise thee not to go elsewhere.

I made then a small present to encourage them to keep their word; I told them everything I had said to the others, as well your orders as the news. Our old man then gave a great account of his journey, which afforded them much pleasure. The chief whom I had accused said to me: My father, we thank thee that thou hast spoken well below to our father for us; we now know that he has had pity on us by sending to us Frenchmen on our lands to supply our wants; we will keep quiet as he desires; the Sioux should do the same; our hearts are still sick for thy son who came the first to build a fort on our lands; we loved him much; I have once already been at war to avenge him; I have destroyed only ten huts, which is not enough to satisfy us; but now our father has ordered us to keep quiet; we shall do so. He then asked me where I intended to go; that the river Assiniboine was very low; that we ran the risk of making our canoes useless; that we were going among people who did not know how to kill the beaver, and covered themselves only with ox skins, which we did not need. They were a people without intelligence, who had never seen the French and could not know them.

I answered that I wished to go in the autumn among that nation of whites who had been so much spoken of; that I would ascend the river as far as I could to put myself in a position to make my journey according to our orders; that I wished to increase the number of our children to learn to hunt on the Assiniboine and to give them intellect, and that next year I would go elsewhere. Thou dost run a great risk, my father, that the canoes will leave empty. There are many Assiniboines, it is true, but they do not know how to hunt beavers; I wish that thou shouldest give them intelligence.

I left on the 26th. My old man asked me to remain a few days with the Crees, who urgently asked him to remain with them and that he would rejoin me shortly. As he had his vehicle I consented willingly, and recommended him to encourage these people to hunt well, to carry provisions to the French forts and to keep their word not to go to the English. He told me that he would speak to them as well as he could, and that he hoped I would be satisfied. I found the water very low, there having been no rain last summer. The river flows from the west, winding about greatly, wide, with a strong current and many sand bars; it is lined with fine woods on the banks and the prairies extend beyond sight, through whose extent are many cattle and deer. I chose to go by land, following the prairie; with the useless people in the canoes. The road is much shorter by the prairies; several points of the river are cut at once, and a straight road can be kept; game is along the river in great abundance.

I had not marched long without meeting several Assiniboines, who, having been warned that I was ascending their river, came to meet me. I still kept on my road, deferring to speak to them on their own lands. The company was increasing daily. I marched six days, making good use of the time. On the evening of the 2nd of October the Indians notified me that I could not ascend the river further, the water being too low; that my canoes could only pass the woods, provided all the people were at the portage^[7] which goes to the Lake of the Prairies,^[8] for this is the road of the Assiniboines in going to the English.^[9] Being here thou wilt stop everyone; thou wouldest go to the Mandans; thou art close to the road.

I consulted what we should do, believing that we were about sixty leagues from the fork by water and about thirty-five to forty by land, by taking the prairies. All present, seeing that we could not pass further and that we ran a great risk of damaging our canoes so that we could not leave, being in a place without resources for repairing them, having neither gum nor resin, felt that it was more suitable to remain in a place where there was plenty and which was on the road to go to the English, that we had reason to hope well of the people and all persons who certainly do not go to Fort Maurepas. I resolved on the morning of the 3rd to select an advantageous place to build a fort, which I made them begin immediately. I still hoped that M. de la Marque would come to join me. If I had gone higher up he would not have been able to find me. I spoke to the Assiniboines whilst they were building an oven, I assembled them near my tent, made them a present in your name, of powder, ball, tobacco, axes, knives, paring knives, awls, the whole much valued among those who are in great need of everything. They received me with great ceremony; many with tears in testimony of their joy in exchange for their grief s. I received them among the number of your children, giving them afterwards full instructions respecting your orders, repeating them several times in order that they might comprehend. That appeared to give them great pleasure.

They thanked me greatly, promised to do wonders. I recommended them to inform the Assiniboines of the Red River that there were Frenchmen among them; that the French would not abandon them; so long as they had intelligence they ought to know the kindness you had for them by sending them what they needed from such a distance; that their relative, the old man, whom I had brought with me, could tell them what had taken place with us daily. He, in truth, spared nothing to inform them and to teach them what it is to have to do with the French; all ended in great weeping and thanks. Some days later, I secured a guide whom, with others, I paid to accompany me on my search and to carry the baggage.

On the evening of the 9th Mr. de la Marque with the Sieur Nolant, his brother, and eight men in two canoes arrived, which gave me much pleasure. I testified by gratitude to Mr. de la Marque for the trouble he had taken to bring us reinforcements; I questioned him if he had left many people at Fort St. Charles, Lake of the Woods, and whom he had left at [Fort] Maurepas. He answered me that he had left eight men at the first with two traders, having brought all the canoes he had, not because he hoped to be able to load them, since he had not been able to bring the heavy goods, but that he had promised he would join me, and did not wish to break his word; that I * required people for my expedition, that he had brought them, without injury to himself, not requiring his people during the winter. I thanked him, telling him that if he joined our expedition he would be saved, himself and all his people, the expense until they returned. He told me he wished to share the expense. I answered that that could not be, it was enough for me that he supplied the men and himself without the necessity of sharing the expense, which I had already provided for. I gave him room, at his request,in my fort to build a house to lodge all his people.

On the return from 'our journey on the 15th of the month, the fort and houses being completed, I thought of making everything ready for our departure. Mr. de la Marque told me he had brought Mr. de Louviere to the Fork with two canoes to build a fort there for the accommodation of the people of the Red River. I approved of it, if the Indians were notified. On the 16th I had the drum beat to arms, to pass every one in review and to select such as were necessary for my expedition. After the inspection of the arms, I published your orders regarding the post; I selected twenty men, ten of Mr. de la Marque's and ten of mine. I warned them to keep themselves in readiness for the 18th, gave them a pound of powder and twenty balls each, shoes, an axe, a kettle to be used on the journey; gave to each man, French and Indian, a bag of powder, sixty balls, two fathoms of tobacco; some small wares, more for present necessities than anything else, as awls, gun-flints, gun-screws and steels. I had put into a leather bag what I wanted for present use, that a wife of our guide carried for me, and all that was of use for myself, my servant and my slave carried. That settled, I had Sanschagrin received as commander in my absence, as a man of wise and prudent mind, who fills the office of sergeant. Taking my two children with me, I left him two soldiers and ten hired men as a guard for the fort, and then give him orders and instructions in writing of all he was to do during my absence.

On the 18th,^[10] all being in good order in the fort, I made all our people set out, with orders to encamp not far off, and afterwards to leave with Mr. da la Marque about noon, encouraging the Indians whom I left at the fort to hunt cattle,^[11] the beaver not being yet good, to furnish provisions to the French whom I left. Our small band consisted of 52 persons, twenty hired men, all good men, Mr. de la Marque, his brother, my two children, my servant and a slave, the rest Indians. The third day after leaving, a village of forty Assiniboine huts joined us, with the intention of speaking to me. The chief asked me to grant him the favor of remaining for the day, to have the pleasure of seeing us and of showing their hospitality. I agreed, on the solicitation of our guide. I made him a small present of powder, and made the same statement to him as I had done to all the others. He testified much gratitude, promising wonders; that he would carry provisions to the French, and would hunt to the utmost, so as to supply their wants. On the 21st we continued our route, as far as the first mountain,^[12] twenty-six leagues distant from our fort, still to the south by south-west; from the first mountain to the second^[13] west and by north-west, 24 leagues. From the point of the second mountain to go direct to the Mandans we must keep to the southwest. But we were obliged to do much more, as on a road which is two leagues in a straight line, we made three or four from our fort. It may have been a hundred and twenty leagues to the west south-west that our guide lengthened the road by from fifty to sixty leagues and a number of stops to which we were obliged to agree, making us spend the finest weather in autumn staying still, so that we took forty-six days to go a distance we should have done easily in sixteen or twenty days at the most. We had, perforce, to have patience; all that I could say to our guide to make him hasten was to no purpose. He made us take for the height of happiness twenty-two leagues of a road which was taking us off our route, to get to a village^[14] of a hundred and two huts which he had gone to look for, and had brought us eight men, whom the chiefs of the village had sent to beg me to join them, that they were all inclined to accompany me to the Mandans, telling me that the Sioux often visited in that direction and that I had need of an escort. We had to make up our minds to go there. We arrived there on the 18th of November, in the afternoon. A number of messengers had gone before us and we were received with great joy. They led us, Mr. de la Marque, his brother and my children, into the hut of a young chief, where every one was ready to receive us. They made a great feast for us and for all our people, who did not want for a good appetite. On the 19th I assembled the chiefs and head men of the village in the hut where I was, I gave them a present in your name of powder, balls, knives and tobacco, telling them that I received them into the number of your children; that if they had sense you promised hot to abandon them; that the French were now established on their lands and would provide for all their wants; that they must hunt the beaver and keep to their lands; that you did not wish for war at present, desiring to make all the lands smooth, so that all our children might live in peace, of whom I would increase the number every day. I made the same recital to them that I had made to all the others. There was a great thankfulness, with many tears and ceremonies, by passing their hands over my head, taking me in your room and place as their father, and our Frenchmen as brothers by again passing their hands over our heads, all weeping. This ceremony ended, the orator said: We thank thee, my father, for so willingly taking the trouble to come to us; we are all going in thy company to the Mandans to bring thee to thy fort; we have sent four men to warn them who are about to arrive, who report that the Mandans are greatly rejoicing at thy coming amongst them and are to come to meet thee. We have sent other four young men to bring them to the place we have selected for them; we will go quietly to the hunting to have fat on arriving there, to eat with the grain of which they always eat much, having seldom either meat or fat. I thanked them for their good will, and encouraged them to send us on quickly; that they could see as well as I, the very advanced season. Knowing that the Mandans had no supplies of fat, I purchased it in the village to give to all of our people whatever they would carry, and made the Indians carry for us, for which I paid them; I warned our Frenchmen that I intended to spend part of the winter among the Mandans; that if they did not take a good load of fat, they must eat their wheat and beans with water.

On the 20th, the whole village set out on the march to' go the seventeen leagues where the meeting place for the Mandans had been chosen; every day they entertained us with the tale that the whites we were going to see were Frenchmen like ourselves, who said they were our descendants. All they told us gave us good hope of making a discovery which would deserve attention. Mr. de la Marque and I made plans along the road from what they were telling us, believing that to be true, from which we had to deduct much. I observed to Mr. de la Marque the good order in which the Assiniboines march to prevent surpise, marching always on the prairies, the hillsides and valleys from the first mountain, which did not make them fatigued by mounting and descending often in their march during the day. There are magnificent plains of three or four leagues. The march of the Assiniboines, especially when they are numerous, is in three columns, having skirmishers in front, with a good rear guard, the old and lame march in the middle, forming the central column. I kept all the French together as much as possible. If the skirmishers' discovered herds of cattle^[15] on the road, as often happens, they raise a cry which is soon returned by the rear guard, and all the most active men in the columns join the vanguard to hem in the cattle, of which they secure a number, and each takes what flesh he wants. Since that stops the march, the vanguard marks out the encampment which is not to be passed; the women and dogs carry all the baggage, the men are burdened only with their arms; they make the dogs even carry wood to make the fires, being often obliged to encamp in the open prairie, from which the clumps of wood may be had at a great distance. On the morning of the 28th,^[16] we arrived at the place selected for the meeting with the Mandans, who arrived towards evening—a chief, with thirty men and the four Assiniboines. The chief, after having from the top of a height considered for some time the extent of our village, which appeared of a good size, I had him brought to the hut where I was, where a place had been prepared to receive him on one side of it. He came and placed himself near me; one of his people then, on his part, presented me with a gift of Indian corn in the ear, and of their tobacco in rolls, which is not good, as they do not know how to cure it like we. It is very like ours, with this difference, that it is not cultivated and is cut green, everything being turned to account, the stalks and leaves together. I gave him some of mine, which he thought very good. I acknowledged that I was surprised, expecting to see different people from the other Indians, especially after the account given me. There is no difference from the Assiniboines; they are naked, covered only with a buffalo robe, worn carelessly without breech clout. I knew from that time that we had to make allowance for all that we had been told.

The chief spoke to me in Assiniboine, testifying the joy which I had given to all their nation by my arrival among them; that he begged me to accept them among the number of your children; that he wished afterwards to have to do only with us; that I might dispose of all he had; that he begged me to remain at his fort, that it was the nearest and smaller than the others, but well supplied with provisions; that there were six forts belonging to the same nation; that it was the only one not far from the river. He told me he had received two belts from me; that they had been shown to me on my arrival as they had always hoped to see me. I thanked him for all his civilities and offers, telling him that I had come from a long distance to form a friendship with them, and that I would speak to them so soon as I should have arrived at their fort. He immediately played us a trick; having examined our village on his arrival, as I have stated, judging that there would be a great many people, and if they all came to his fort, there must be a great consumption of grain, their custom being to feed liberally all who came among them, selling only what was to be taken away, he gave many thanks to the Assiniboines for having brought the French among them; that it could not have happened more opportunely; that the Sioux would not be long of arriving among them, having been warned, begging me, like the Assiniboines, to assist them, hoping much from our valour and courage. I was entrapped like the Assiniboines, with this difference, that the Assiniboines stood confounded, whilst I rejoiced, believing that I had found an opportunity to be avenged on that accursed nation. I promised him every assistance from myself and our Frenchmen should they come whilst we were with them, for which he thanked me. He was sent for to come to the feast and questioned respecting the Sioux.

The Assiniboines, numerous, strong and robust men, are not brave; they greatly fear the Sioux, whom they think to be braver. The Mandans know their weakness and profit by it, as opportunity arises. The council was held to discuss what should be done. The most decided opinion was that it was not necessary to go further than towarnmeoftheriskIwasabouttorunifIwishedto pursue our course. An old man rose firmly: Do not think that our father is a coward; I know him better than the others do; I have been with him ever since he left his fort; do not believe that the Sioux can frighten him or any of his people. What will he think of us? He has lengthened his road to join us, agreeing to our wish for his company among the Mandans and to bring him back to his fort. He would have gone to-day if he had not listened to us, and you would think of abandoning him by letting him go alone, which cannot be. If we fear the Sioux let us leave our village here till our return; let every man able to march follow our father. All agreed in the old man's opinion; it was decided that only a few should remain to protect the women; all the rest would accompany me. I was notified of the result of the council; word was sent throughout the village to warn every one to be ready to march the day after tomorrow, the 30th of the month,^[17] thus making a little longer delay among the Mandans, who knew how to profit by it by the sale of their grain, tobacco, peltry and painted plumes, which they know the Assiniboines greatly value, who had brought and now gave i,n exchange muskets, axes, kettles, powder, balls, knives and awls. They are much craftier in trade than the Assiniboines and others, who are constantly their dupes.

We left on the morning of the 30th, about 600 men, several women without children, the best walkers. On the evening of the third day of our march, about seven leagues from the first fort of the Mandans, I was informed that an Assiniboine had taken the bag from my slave on the road, under pretext of relieving him, and had returned to the village. My box, in which were my papers, and many things of use to me, were in the bag. I immediately engaged two young men to run after him, whom I paid, making them promise to bring the bag to the Mandans, where I would wait for them. They set out during the night, overtook the rascal, who had already decamped from the village, made him return everything and came back to their village to keep the whole, hoping to restore it to me on my return, not daring to come after me, being afraid of the Sioux. I saw myself deprived of many things which were of daily use. The orator gave notice that we must leave before four in the morning in order to arrive early at the fort. I found at a league and a half, about noon, near a small river, a number of people who had come to meet us had lighted fires, expecting us, and had brought coarse grain cooked and flour made into a paste, with pumpkins, to give all enough to eat. Two chiefs had made a place ready for me near the fire and presented me first with something to eat and to smoke. Mr. de la Marque arrived shortly after me. I asked him to sit near me and to eat whilst resting.

We remained fully two hours resting. We were warned that it was time to go. I made one of my children take the flag painted with the arms of France, and march at the front; and ordered the French to follow in ranks. The Sieur Nolant relieved my son in carrying the flag, each taking it in turn. The Mandans would not let me march, but offered to carry me, to which I had to consent, being requested by the Assiniboines, who told me I would displease them greatly if I refused.

At four acres from the fort, on a small height, the old men of the fort, accompanied by a great number of the youth, were waiting to present me with the calumet and to show me the two belts I had sent them four or five years ago. They gave a seat to me and to Mr. de la Marque. I received their compliments, which related only to the joy they felt at our arrival. I ordered my son, the Chevalier, to make all our Frenchmen draw up in line, the flag four paces in front; all the Assiniboines who had muskets placed themselves in line like our Frenchmen. After compliments had been paid, I saluted the fort with three volleys. Many people came to meet us, but nothing in comparison with what appeared on the ramparts and along the trenches. I marched in good order to the fort,^[18] into which I entered on the 3rd of December at four in the afternoon, escorted by all the French and Assiniboines. We were led into the hut of the head chief. It was certainly large, but not enough to hold all who wished to enter. The crowd was so great that they crushed one another, Assiniboines and Mandans. There was only the place where we were, Mr. de la Marque, his brother and my children, free of them. I asked that the crowd should retire, to leave our Frenchmen clear, and to put their baggage in a place of safety, telling them they had all time to see us. Everyone was put out, but I had been too late. The bag of goods had been stolen, in which were all my presents, through the fault of one of the hired men in whose care I had placed it before reaching the fort. He had unloaded on entering the hut without looking out for the bag, which he had put beside him in the great crowd. I felt rather confounded; my box lost, my bag of presents, which was very necessary for the place, and there were upwards of 300 livres inside.

The Assiniboines seemed greatly annoyed and at once made a strict but useless search. Their fort is full of caves, well suited for concealment. The chief of the Mandans appeared greatly moved at my loss, and said for my consolation that there were many rascals among them. He would do his utmost to discover something about it. Had I accepted the offer of the Assiniboines, I might have had it found in a little time by force, but I preferred to lose it and to make peace about everything, as I wanted to spend a part of the winter with them to get a knowledge of the more distant country.

On the 14th^[19] I had the principal Mandans and Assiniboines assembled in the hut where I was. I gave them my present of powder and balls, telling them that I could give them nothing else; that they all knew that what I brought to give in presents had been carried,off. I declared to them that I was inclined to remain some time to gain a knowledge of the country according to our orders, which I could not do in a day. The Mandans testified their joy, assuring me that I need not be afraid of fasting, that they had provisions in reserve, far more than were necessary for us, and that their whole fort was well supplied, that I might dispose of it being master among them. The elder of the Assiniboines, the orator of the village, said to me: My father, we have brought thee here; I do not doubt that thou mayest be well here; we flatter ourselves with bringing thee back to thy fort; thou art the master to do what thou shalt consider suitable; we will come to seek thee, so soon as thou shalt wish it. Speaking then to the Mandans: We are leaving our father; take great care of him and of all the French; learn to know them; they know how to do everything; he is a spirit; we love and fear him; do like us. We leave much grieved at the theft which has been committed on our father by entering among us; what can he think of us; we cannot deny that it is an unworthy thing. The Frenchman came to see us and you robbed him; we are pleased that our father should be good or it would not have passed in that way. I do not fear to tell you so; we could have found the bag had he wished it; there is still time if he will. I made him finish, as I saw the old man was getting heated.

One of the Mandan chiefs answered: Neither I, nor my people have any share in what you accuse us of; I do not answer for others; I am vexed enough; I have had every search made by my young men; I have nothing to reproach myself with. Who knows if it is not an Assiniboine? There were some of both in the crowd; thou can'st answer for nothing. Be not uneasy as to what regards our father and all his people; he is here master as if he were at home. We beg him to number us among his children. This I did at once, by putting my hands on the head of each chief, which is the usual ceremony, answered by loud shouts of joy and thanks. I then said to the Assiniboines: I am sending four Frenchmen to my fort to give my news there; I recommend you to get them to that place as soon as you can. I have left powder in the village and all that is necessary to have them brought. The council ended with loud thanks from both parties. As the Assiniboines did not yet speak of leaving, although they had purchased all they were able to do, such as painted ox-robes, deer skin, dressed buck skin and ornamented furs and feathers, painted feathers, and peltry, wrought garters, circlets for head, girdles.

These people dress leather better than any of the other nations, and work in furs and feathers very tastefully, which the Assiniboines are not capable of doing. They are cunning traders, cheating the Assiniboines of all they may possess, such as muskets, powder, balls, kettles, axes, knives or awls, Seeing the great consumption of food daily by the Assiniboines, and afraid that it would not last long, they set afloat a rumor that the Sioux were near and that several of their hunters had noticed them. The Assiniboines fell into the trap and made up their minds quickly to decamp, not wishing to be obliged to fight. A Mandan chief let me understand by a sign that the rumor about the Sioux was to get rid of the Assiniboines. At six in the morning they all left in great haste, believing the Sioux were near and fearing the road might be blocked up. The chief with whom I had lodged brought five men to remain with me, saying: My father, I still hope that you will join us for a little; I march peaceably. Here are five of my young men whom I give thee to remain with thee and to guide thee when thou shalt wish to leave. I made him a small present to thank him, telling him that he knew that I had sense and that I intended shortly to reward him for his attention. He left with great protestations of friendship.

I was notified shortly after that an interpreter whom I paid liberally to secure him had decamped in spite of all the offers which my son, the Chevalier, had made him, as he was going after an Assiniboine woman with whom he had fallen in love, but who would not remain with him. He was a young man of the Cree nation speaking good Assiniboine. As there were several Mandans who spoke it well enough, I made myself very well understood, as my son spoke Cree and the Cree interpreted into Assiniboine. But here was the height of misfortune, as we could only make ourselves understood by signs and demonstrations. If I had suspected my interpreter, who every day assured me he would always remain with me and never abandon me, I would have taken advantage of the time I had him with me to make the demands on the Mandans I wished to make. But flattering myself that I had a man on whom I could rely, I put off till after the departure of the Assiniboines.

All day I was greatly embarrassed; all that I wanted to know and the few questions I had put were asked in the evening after everyone had retired; such as, if there were many people along the river going down, and what nations; if the places at a distance were known. I was answered that there were five forts on the two banks of the river, belonging to their nation, much larger than that in which we were; that at a day's journey from the last of their forts were the Pananas, who had several forts; then the Pananis; that these two nations who held much of the country were now at war for four years, had always from all time been closely united and in alliance together; that he would tell me afterward the causes which had set them at variance. The Pananas and Pananis^[20] made their forts like them. In summer they grew wheat and tobacco on the lower part of the river, which was very wide, land not being visible from one shore to the other; the water bad for drinking. All these lands are inhabited by whites^[21] like us, who work in iron. The word iron among all the nations here means all sorts of metals which they call iron; that they only marched on horseback, both for hunting and war; that these men could not be killed by arrow or musket, being covered with iron, but that by killing the horse the man could be caught easily, as he could not run; that he had a shield of iron very clear, fought with lances and sabres, with which he was very skilfiul; the women were never seen in the fields; their forts and houses were stone. I asked if there were fine woods, and if the prairie continued in heights and hollows. He answered that the wood was along the river in places and also on the prairies in islands; that the further down the more the hills increased; that many of them were only rocks of fine stone, especially along the river. I asked if it took long to go where the whites, the horsemen, were. I was answered that the Pananas and Pananis had horses like the whites; it would take a whole summer to make the journey, and that since they were at war with the Pananas the men would not undertake to go far, the roads being closed to them. That cattle were abundant on the prairies, far larger and fatter than those we had seen on their prairies; their coat white and of several colours. He showed us horns split in half, of a greenish colour which hold nearly three pints. In all the huts they have them in use as ladles, proving that they have killed many when the road was open. That was all I could learn even by chance, as I had relied on my interpreter, that I would have time to be thoroughly informed at leisure.

Six days after the Assiniboines left I sent my son, the Chevalier, with Sieur Nolant, six Frenchmen and several Mandans to the nearest fort, which is on the bank of the river.^[22] If well received they were to sleep there, to get the best information of the course of the river; who dwell there; if they are acquainted with the lower part, in accordance with what was told us; to learn all that could be ascertained by signs and demonstrations. After their departure, Mr. de la Marque and I walked about to observe the size of their fort and their fortifications. I decided to have the huts counted. It was found that there were a hundred and thirty of them. Several of our squares and huts resembled each other. Several of our Frenchmen wandered about; they found the street and squares very clean, the ramparts very level and broad; the palisade supported on cross-pieces morticed into posts of fifteen feet. At fifteen points doubled are green skins which are put for sheathing when required, fastened only above in the places needed, as in the bastion there are four at each curtain well flanked. The fort is built on a height in the open prairies with a ditch upwards of fifteen feet deep to eighteen feet wide. Their fort can only be gained by steps or posts which can be removed when threatened by an enemy. If all their forts are alike, they may be called impregnable to Indians. Their fortifications are not Indian.

This nation is mixed white and black. The women are fairly good-looking, especially the white, many with blonde and fair hair. Both men and women of this nation are very industrious; their huts are large and spacious, separated into several apartments by thick planks; nothing is left lying about; all their baggage is in large bags hung on posts; their beds made like tombs surrounded by skins; all go to bed naked, men and women. These men are always naked, covered only with a buffalo robe; a great part of the women naked like the men, with this difference, that they wear a loose apron, about a hand breadth wide and a foot long, sewed to a girdle in front only; all the women have this kind of protection, although they have a petticoat wnich gives no constraint, they do not close the thighs; as is the case with other Indian women when they sit down. Several carry a kind of gown of very soft deer skin; there are many deer, they are very small. Their fort is full of caves, in which are stored such articles as grain, food, fat, dressed robes, bear skins. They are well supplied with these; it is the money of the country; the more they have of it the richer they believe themselves to be. They are fond of tatooing, but never more than half of the body is tatooed, both of men and women. They make wicker work very neatly, flat and in baskets. They make use of earthen pots, which they use like many other nations for cooking their food. They are for the most part great eaters; are eager for feasts. They brought me every day more than twenty dishes of wheat, beans and pumpkins, all cooked. Mr. de la Marque, who did not hate feasts, went to them continually with my children. As I did not go to them, my share was sent to me. The men are stout and tall, generally very active, fairly good looking, with a good physiognomy. The women have not the Indian physiognomy. The men indulge in a sort of ball play on the squares and ramparts.

On the evening of the 4th,^[23] the Sieur Nolant and my son arrived, well satisfied with their journey, having been well received and strongly urged to remain longer. The fort is on the bank of the river, as large again as this; the squares and streets very fine and clean; their palisade is in the best order and strength; the whole built in the same fashion as the one in which we were. From what they could hear, all their forts were alike; who saw one saw them all, with this difference, that some were much larger than others; that the last was the largest of all. The nearest to the Pananas that the river appeared to go, was according to the compass, south-west by south, by signs given to them; the lower part may go to the sea to the south-west by west. They were often amused with broken talk; not being able to answer questions put to them, they answered something else, for want of understanding. The waters of their rivers come down with great rapidity, having many shoals. The water is not good for drinking, being brackish. We have constantly found from the last mountain almost all the marshes and ponds brackish, or sulphurous. What they could understand was, that on the lower part of the river there were men like us, who made cloth and linen, were very numerous, and had wars with a large part of the Indians. We saw that it was useless to question them, as they could not undestand us.

We did not cease going to their feasts all the time we were at their fort, but could not attend all those to which we were asked. We noticed that in the plain there were several small forts, of forty or fifty huts, built like the large ones, but no one was there at the time. They made us understand that they came inside for the summer to work their fields and that there was a large reserve of grain in their cellars. This is all the information they could give of their journey. On the 8th of December^[24] I ordered my son to take the latitude which was forty-eight degrees, twelve minutes. On the evening of the 7th I had consulted with Mr. de la Marque as to the course we should take. Like myself, he knew that little remained with us for presents, which rendered it impossible for us to go further; the season too trying to be able to undertake anything, and above all, no interpreter nor any hope of getting one during the winter. We had every reason to fear that the roads would become impracticable in spring on account of the waters and with the risk of arriving too late for the setting out of our canoes; the powder I would have would not perhaps be enough to supply all our wants during the winter and with the small quantity of goods remaining we might find ourselves in a difficulty about all our people, having no longer anything to carry us on, as the Indians would only serve us so far as they were paid and that in advance, as they look on promises as a very small resource. On the other hand, that we had reason to apprehend setting out on a march in the worst season of the year. After having considered the whole, we decided that we must set out, leaving two men fit to learn the language in a short time, one in the fort in which we were and the other in the nearest fort, as being alone they could learn much more quickly and could consequently give all the information. Mr. de la Marque selected one of his hired men, a man of intelligence, whom he offered me as being one of the most capable, able to write. I accepted him with pleasure and gave him my servant as the second, although he was very useful to me, as well as very useful and attached to my service, I preferred to deprive myself of him for the good he might afterwards render, knowing his strong and quick intellect, with a good memory and facility in learning languages, very wise and fearing God. I gave him full instructions of all he had to do, and on his side, Mr. de la Marque promised to send to look after them next summer.

That ended, so far as regarded the two men whom I left, I notified our five Assiniboines, whom I made to understand that I wished to set out shortly, which gave them much joy. I showed them by signs, not being able to make myself understood otherwise, that it would be necessary for them to set out with two Frenchmen on the morning of the next day, that everything would be ready for them, so that they might go speedily to the village to warn them to expect us; that I would leave four days after them', so that I might prepare everything for the journey. I then informed the Mandans of my design, which appeared to give them much sorrow. I showed them the two Frenchmen whom I left in my place, recommending that they should be taken good care of. They gave me many thanks, with great protestations of friendship and fidelity. I then let them know that I would not abandon them. I asked the chief to give me meal for the journey. The news soon spread throughout the fort. On the morning of the 8th, I made the two Frenchmen set out, guided by two Assiniboines, as I have already said, to go to warn the village of my departure. Wheat flour pounded for the journey was brought, much more than was necessary. I thanked them, giving them some needles which they greatly value. They would have loaded a hundred men for the journey; in a short time all hastened to bring me some. I made all our people take what they wished, which was done in a very short time.

Having provided for all that our people needed, I assembled the chiefs and principal Mandans, made them a present of powder, balls, and several trifles, which they greatly value, owing to their need for them. I gave the head chief a flag, gave him a leaden plate, which I had ornamented with ribbon at the four corners. It was put into a box to be kept in perpetuity, in memory of my taking possession of their lands, which I did in the king's name. It will be preserved from father to son, better than if I had put it in the ground, where it would have run the risk of being stolen. I made them understand as well as I could, that I left them that mark in memory of the Frenchmen who had come upon their lands. I very much desired I could have made them understand, in order to tell them many things which might have been very useful to them and to us, which to my regret and to theirs I could not do. I had wrought with so much diligence, that on the evening of the eighth everything was ready for our departure, which I calculated to accomplish sooner than I had given notice of. During the night, between the 8th and 9th, I was taken ill, and in a very short time was very ill; I did not know what to think of it. I kept my bed for three days. Finding myself better on the fourth, I prepared to set out the next day. I gave the two men enough to defray their expenses liberally, and even to pay a guide, if need were to bring them to our fort; informed them once again of the cause which obliged me to leave them there. So soon as they could make themselves understood, they were to neglect nothing to learn what was this nation of whites, what metal they worked with; if there were any mines to their knowledge; what nations were above, going up the river; if they knew a height of land—in a word, to neglect nothing to obtain all possible information respecting the country.

I set out, although ill, in the hope that it would be nothing and that I would recover at the village my box in which I had put some remedies. On the 13th of December,^[25] to the great regret of all the Mandans, a chief came to conduct us a league and a half's distance, whence I sent him back; he testified to me by great demonstrations the regret he felt at my departure, making a sign that I would not abandon him, but to return and that he would accompany us. I gave him a small present of powder, once more recommending the two Frenchmen whom I left with them. He made me a sign that he would take one to his own house. I dismissed him after giving him many thanks. In the evening I noticed that we had only two Assiniboines with us. They made me understand that one had remained with our Frenchmen, not wishing to abandon them; that they would return only in summer with them. I arrived at the village on the 24th, still very ill. We had experienced excessive cold, which caused great delay.

My box was restored to me; nothing had been touched; they had been satisfied with the slave's bag, which was returned to me empty. Having rested a little, I reproached them for lying to me respecting the Mandans; that there was very little truth in all they had told me. They answered, that they had not pretended to speak of the Mandans, saying that they were like us, that they had intended to speak of that nation which is at the lower part of the river, who work in iron. An Assiniboine rose above the others, saying to me: This is the only one who can speak better to thee about it; thou hast not understood properly what was said to thee; I do not lie. Last summer I killed one who was covered with iron, as I have already said several times. If I had not killed the horse first, I could not have killed the man. I said to him: What hast thou brought of his spoil to show us that thou speakest the truth? As I wished to cut off his head, I noticed men on horseback, who were blocking the way, I escaped with difficulty; I kept nothing to carry off; I threw away everything I had even to my blanket, in my flight. What I say is true, and I will have it told to thee by others who were with me the following spring. They are not here now, but thou shalt see them. What I have said I repeat; the other side of the river cannot be seen; the water is salt; it is a country of mountains; a great extent between the mountains of fine land; many cattle, big and stout, white and of different colors, many stags and deer; I have seen their wheat fields, where no women are to be seen; what I tell thee is without deceit; thou wilt learn further of it afterwards. I continued my journey after three days' rest. I reached the first mountain on the 9th of January,^[26] where we remained a long time. Mr. de la Marque made up his mind to go on, seeing me still very ill, in order to send me assistance. He arrived on the first of February; I arrived only on the 10th,^[27] greatly fatigued and very ill.

I met the assistance he sent me at thirty-five leagues from the fort, which gave me great pleasure, having great need of it. I have never endured so much wretchedness in my life, from illness and fatigue, as in that journey. I found myself, after a fortnight's rest, a little restored. Mr. de la Marque waited my arrival to carry out his design of going to Fort Maurepas, having learned that there were no provisions. I told him that I thought his presence would be very useful in his post. He determined to set out, asking me to leave his brother with a large party of hired men for provisions at my fort, flattering themselves that there was more hope there of seeing people. We were nearly starving, when fortunately two huts of Indians came, whom I stopped at the fort. They supplied us by their hunting moose and deer. We numbered forty-two persons in the fort, which means a large consumption of food. Mr. de la Marque left on the 16th^[28] of the month. I received news from him shortly after. He informed me that he dreaded a famine, not seeing Indians. We are now in the 16th of April and have not yet seen any one. I do not know how God preserves us.

I sent my son, the Chevalier, that morning, the 16th of April, with an Indian to go to make a search for the fort of Lake Winipigon,^[29] and to take notice of the rivers which fall into it, especially the White River^[30] (to which I intend to go on the return of our canoes), from the mine which is in the lake, and from that which is in the White River, from the outlet into it, especially the White River (to which I intend to go on the Indians from going to the English, by making them hope for our speedy arrival.

I received a letter from Mr. de la Marque on the 23rd of April, which notified me that he had not yet had any of the Indians; that he has decided to go to find them in the great River Winipigon^[31] where they are engaged building their canoes.

I think he is leaving the post too early; the Indians might arrive from Red River after his departure. On the 22nd of the present month I learned from an Indian that a large band of Assiniboines had drawn up on the Lake of the Prairies who were working on their canoes to go to the English.

On the 24th I sent Sanschagrin with a hired man to bring them here so as to turn from going to the English. On the 30th five Assiniboines arrived towards evening to let me know that a large number of people was coming; we have much need of them, having done nothing till now.

On the 3rd of May this great band was reduced to very few.

On the 10th, Mr. Nolant, despairing at no more com- ing, asked leave to set out, representing to me that there were no more provisions and that they could not remain longer. I did my best to induce him to have patience for some time yet, being much vexed that he should go empty.

Seeing him determined to set out, I gave him per- mission.

On the same day, the 10th, in the evening, fifteen Assiniboines arrived to notify us that there were sixty huts coming and that they had been told we had gone. I sent them back with tobacco to hasten their coming. They arrived on the 18th and did their trading in a short time. These left. On the 20th, three men arrived to beg me to delay our departure, that thirty huts would arrive. I made them set out with speed, giving them tobacco to tell their people to hasten their coming.

I discovered these days a river flowing to the west. All the lakes and rivers of which.I have had any know- ledge go to Hudson's Bay, the Northern Sea, except the Mandan River.^[32]

I will obtain complete knowledge of it this summer, either by myself or some person on my behalf.

I have deferred the departure of my canoes till the 28th of the month, waiting uselessly for the people to come; only a few arrived, all postponing their coming till summer.

They are so stupid that they think they will be waited for into the summer, and that there will always be time enough to carry off their beavers.

I promised them that as soon as my son and the two men arrived, whom I had left with the Mandans, I would remove from this as quickly as possible.

1. Site of present Ft. William.
2. Probably Dog Lake.
3. Fort St. Charles
4. Of August, 1738.
   We are indebted to Chas. E . DeLand, President South Dakota Historical Society 1910-1913 for these explanations.
5. At mouth of Winnipeg River.
6. Site of present city of Winnipeg.
7. Site of present city of Portage la Prairie.
8. Lake Manitoba,
9. At Hudson's Bay.
10. Of October.
11. Buffalo.
12. Probably the Pembina Mountains.
13. Turtle Mountains.
14. This Indian village is supposed to have been on the west side of the Mouse River just south of the international boundary in North Dakota.
15. Buffalo.
16. November.
17. November.
18. This fort was located about five miles south of Minot, near the south loop of the Mouse River.
19. Should be December 4th.
20. Perhaps Pawnees on the upper Platte River.
21. The Spaniards on the lower Mississippi River.
22. This fort was on the east side of the Missouri River, one mile south of the mouth of the Little Knife in McLean County, North Dakota. (O. G . Libby, University of North Dakota.)
23. Of January, 1739.
24. Of January, 1739.
25. Of January.
26. Should be February 9th.
27. March 10.
28. March.
29. Lake Winnipeg.
30. Saskatchewan.
31. Winnipeg.
32. Verendrye believed he had found that the River of the Mandans (Missouri) was the highway to the "Western Sea."