CONTENTS.
BOOK I.—TO THE CAPITAL.
I.
BEFORE THE BEGINNING.
The Threshold.—From Snow to Flowers.—A Character, and what made him.—Our South and its Ethiop.—The Bay and Blaze of Havana.—Off
Page 17
II.
A DAY IN YUCATAN.
The First-born.—An Opportunity accepted.—An Index Point.—Cocoa-nut Milk.—The Market-place.—Euchre as a Food.—A Grave Joke.—The Drink of the Country.—The Cocoa Palm.—The Native Dress.—A Hacienda.—A Pre-adamite Haciendado.—Jenequen.—Prospecting.—Almost a Panic.—Done into Rhyme25
III.
THE SEA-PORT.
Under the Cocoa-nut Palm.—The Plaza.—The Cathedral.—No Distinction on account of Color either in Worshiper or Worshiped.—The Watering-place of Cortez.—How the Palm looks and grows.—Other Trees of the Tropics.—Home Flowers.—July Breakfast in January.—Per Contra, a Norther.—Its Utility.—Harbor and Fort.—Size and Shape of the City.—Its Scavenger.—Its Houses.—Street Life.—The Lord's Day.—First Protestant Service.—The Railroad Inauguration36
IV.
THE HOT LANDS.
From Idleness to Peril.—Solitud.—Chiquihuiti.—Tropical Forests.—The Falls of Atoyac.—Wild Beasts non sunt.—Cordova and its Oranges.—Mount Orizaba.—Fortin55
V.
ON THE STAGE.
Our Companions.—Vain Fear.—The Plunge.—Coffee Haciendas.—Peon Life.—Orizaba City.—The Mountain-lined Passway.—The Cumbres.—The Last Smile of Day and the Hot Lands.—Night and Useless Terror.—"Two-o' clock-in-the-morning Courage."—Organ Cactus.—Sunrise.—The Volcano.—Into Puebla and the Cars.—The three Snow-peaks together.—Epizaco.—Pulqui.—“There is Mexico!"65
BOOK II.—IN AND AROUND THE CAPITAL.
I.
FIRST WEEK IN THE CAPITAL.
Hotel Gillow.—Cost of Living.—The Climate.—Lottery-ticket Venders.—First Sabbath.—First Protestant Church.—A Praise Meeting.—State of the Work.—The Week of Prayer 89
II.
FROM THE CHURCH TOP.
First Attempt and Failure.—At it again.—The Southern Outlook.—Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl.—Cherubusco.—Chapultepec.—Guadalupe.—The patron Saint of the Country.—Round the Circle 98
III.
FROM THE SIDEWALK.
Views from Street Corners.—Chief Street.—Shops, Plaza, Cathedral.—Pligh and Low Religion.—Aztec Calendar Stone.—The Sacrificial Stone.—The President's private House.—Hotel Iturbide.—Private Residences.—Alameda 110
IV.
A NEW EVENT IN MEXICO.
Palace of the President.—The President.—How he looks.—What he pledges.—Former Property of the Church.—Its Consequences.—Corruption.—Prospects and Perils 126
V.
OLD AND NEW AMONG THE SILVER MINES.
A Mediæval Castle.—First Icicle.—Omatuska.—More about Pulqui.—A big Scare.—A Paradise.—Casa Grande.—A Sabbath in Pachuca.—A native Convert.—Mediæval Cavalcade.—The Visitors.—Mounting Real Del Monte.—The Castle of Real.—Gentlemanly Assassin.—Silver Factories.—Velasco.—A Reduction.—Haciendado Riley.—Mexican Giant's Causeway.—More Silver Reduction.—Horsemanship under Difficulties.—Contraries balancing Contraries.—La Barranca Grande.—A bigger Scare.—A Wedding.—Miner and Mining.—The Gautemozin.—The better Investment 131
VI.
ACROSS LOTS.
A drowsy Beginning.—Paradise somewhat Lost.—Trees of Paradise.—A lingual Guess at the Aztec Origin.—Tizayuca.—Zumpango.—The Lake System.—Guatitlan.—Hotel San Pedro.—Into Town.—Tree of Noche Triste.—Tacuba.—Aqueduct of San Cosme.—Tivoli Page 166
VII.
THE TOWN OF THE ANGELS.
Warnings unheeded.—Slow Progress.—Christ in the Inn.—Why Angelic.—Bad Faith and worse Works.—First English Service.—Outlook from the Cathedral.—Tlascala.—The Volcano.—Inside View of the Belfry.—Inside the Cathedral.—Triple Gilt.—Cathedral Service.—La Destruccion de los Protestantes 175
VIII.
THE MOST ANCIENT AMERICAN MECCA.
On Horse.—Irrigation.—Entrance to Cholula.—Deserted Churches.—Plaza Grande, and its Cortez Horror.—A wide-awake Priest.—A wide View from the Summit.—A costly Trifle.—The Ride back 191
IX.
A DAY AND NIGHT AT EL DESIERTO.
A Point of View.—The Woods: their Peril and Preservation.—How we got here.—Chapultepec.—Tacubaya.—Santa Fe.—Contadera.—Guajimalpa.—The Forest.—The Shot.—Solitude.—The Ruin.—Its Inquisition.—A Bowl of Song.—Moonlight Pleasure and all-night Horror.—Morning Glories.—Its History.—A more excellent Way.—Home again
204
X.
A RIDE ABOUT TOWN.
The Horse and its Rider.—Paseos.—Empress's Drive.—A Relic of Waterloo.—The Tree of Montezuma.—The Woods.—View of Chapultepec.—Baths of Montezuma.—Tacubaya Gardens.—The Penyan.—Canal.—Floating Gardens.—Gautemozin.—The Café 219
XI.
A GARDEN IN EDEN.
A Temptation.—Up the Mountains.—The Cross of Cortez.—Sight of the Town and Valley.—The downward Plunge.—A Lounge.—Church of Cortez.—The Enchanted Garden.—Idolatry.—The Market-place.—The Almanac against Protestantism.—Palace of Cortez.—The Indian Garden of Maximilian.—A Sugar Hacienda.—The latter End.—All Zones231
XII.
A WALK IN MEXICO.
The Market-place.—The Murder-place.—Mexic Art and Music.—Aquarius.—Ruins, and how they were made.—A Funeral.—San Fernando Cemetery.—The English and American also.—VaminosPage 248
BOOK III.—FROM MEXICO TO MATAMORAS IN AND AROUND THE CAPITAL.
I.
TO QUERETARO.
The Start.—First and last Church in the City.—The Game-cocks.—First Scare.—Guatitlan again.—Barrenness.—Gambling and Tortilla-making.—Descent to Tula.—A Bit of English Landscape.—Tula.—Hunt for a Statue.—A silver Heavens and Earth.—Juelites.—Mountains and a mounting Sun.—Vista Hermosa.—Napola.—A stone Town.—An Interior.—The Stables.—Sombrero Walls.—Eagle Tavern.—Playing with the Children.—Gamboling versus Gambling.—Cazadero, the Bull Prairie.—Hacienda of Palmillas.—Blacksmith Idolatry.—Misterio de la Santissima Trinidad.—‘Tother Side up.—Descent into the Valley of San Juan.—Lone yellow Cone.—Longfellow and Homer.—Elysium after much Turmoil.—A Dissertation on Beggars.—A Market Umbrella.—In Perils among Robbers.—The beautiful Valley of San Juan.—Colorado.—A Turner Sunset.—Sight of Queretaro.—The Aqueduct.—The Bed267
II.
QUERETARO.
Into the Town.—Maximilian's Retreat.—Capture and Execution.—Hill of Bells.—Factories and Gardens.—Hot-weather Bath.—A Home.—Alameda.—Sunday, sacred and secular.—A very Christian Name.—Crowded Market, and empty Churches.—Chatting in Church.—Priestly Procession.—Among the Churches.—Hideous Images.—Handsome Gardens285
III.
TO GUANAJUATO.
A bad Beginning.—A level Sea.—Celaya.—A Cactus Tent.—Salamanca.—Irapuato.—Entrance to Guanajuato.—Gleaning Silver.—The Hide-and-go-seek City.—A Revelation300
IV.
A SILVER, AND A SACRED TOWN.
Native Costume.—Reboza and Zarepe.—The Sombrero.—A Reduction Hacienda.—The Church in Guanajuato.—Its Antipodes.—A clerical Acquaintance.—A mulish Mule.—"No quiere."—The Landscape.—Lettuce.—Calzada.—The Town and Country.—Fish of the Fence.—The Cactus and the Ass.—Compensation.—One-story City.—High Mass and higher Idolatry.—The God Mary Page 307
V.
A HORSEBACK RIDE OVER THE SILVER MOUNTAINS.
Indian Dancing and Gambling.—A sleeping City.—Wood and Coal Carriers.—Mineral de la Luz.—A Mountain Nest.—Sometimes up, sometimes down.—Berrying and Burying.—The Apple-tree among the Trees of the Wood.—Off the Track.—A funereal Tread.—Lunch in the Air.—The Plunge.—A Napola Orchard.—Out on the Plains.—Valley of the Sancho 321
VI.
TO AND IN SAN LUIS POTOSI.
Aztec Music.—Low-hung but high-hung Clouds.—Troops and Travelers.—A big, small Wagon.—Zeal of San Felipe.—Lutero below Voltaire.—Rough Places not smooth.—Mesquite Woods.—Silver Hills.—Two Haciendas.—How they Irrigate.—Lassoing.—The Frescoes of Frisco.—Cleft Cliffs.—The Valley of San Luis Potosi.—Greetings and Letters.—The Church of Mary.—The coming Faith.—A costly and Christly Flag.—Joseph and Mary worshiped in vain for Rain 334
VII.
OUT AT SEA.
Leaving Shore.—A hot Companion.—Parallel Mountains.—Parks and Divides.—Hacienda of Bocas.—Gingerbread Tigs.—A ragged Boy Apollo.—Marriageless Motherhood.—The Widow's Reply.—Sierra Prieto.—Mortevillos.—Reveling in the Halls of Montezuma.—Strife of Beggars.—Dusty Reflections.—Venada.—Chalcos.—The Worship of the dying Wafer 351
VIII.
MID-OCEAN.
The "Rolling Forties."—Ceral Hard-tack.—Not so Hard.—Mexican Birds.—Smoking-girls.—Laguna Seca.—La Punta.—First Breakfast in an Adobe.—Hacienda of Precita.—The Spanish Bayonet.—Mattejuala.—Birnam Wood marching on Dunsinane.—The first and last Mosquito of Mexico.—Yankee Singing.—Worse threatened 359
IX.
NEARING SHORE.
Preparations against a Rancho.—A golden Set.—Bonaventura.—A Rancho: what is it?—Companions.—Aztec or Chinese?—Desolation.—Tropic Thorns and Flowers.—An Oasis.—Hacienda of Solado, and its unexpected Hospitalities—Freaks of the Spanish Bayonet.—Green velvet Mountains.—The true Protector Page 366
X.
INTO PORT.
Sunrise.—Villa de Gomez Firias.—A lost American found.—Flowering Palms.—An unpleasant Reminder.—A charming Park.—Agua Nueva.—La Encantada.—La Angostura.—Battlemented Mountains.—Buena Vista.—The Battle-field.—The Result.—Why.—Saltillo.—Alameda.—Friends 375
XI
MONTEREY.
Songs in the Night.—Open Fields near Saltillo.—Effect of Irrigation.—"The Rosy-fingered Dawn."—Gathering together of the Mountains.—San Gregario.—A Thousand-feet Fall.—Rinconada.—Wonders of Flowers.—A Hole through a Mountain.—The Saddle Mountain.—The Mitre.—Santa Caterina.—A Tin God.—A familiar Color.—St. Peter.—No Bathing after Midday.—The Smallness of Mexican Heads.—Miss Rankin's Work.—Strife between Brethren.—Its Benefits.—The two Dogs.—The Eye of the Town.—Revolutions 387
XII.
THE BEGINNING OF THE END.
Rancho de Villa de General Trevina.—A Sign of Home.—A misty Escort.—Blistering Morin.—Chaparral.—The changed Face of Nature.—The Yankee-Hat and Hut.—Mesas, or Table-lands.—The bottom Rancho: Garcia.—Mier.—Comargo.—The Grand River unseen, yet ever near.—Last Night in a Rancho.—La Antigua Renosa 398
XIII.
JOLTINGS AND JOTTINGS.
A Creator and an Imitator.—Church-making and Carriage-writing.—The oldest Church and the youngest.—Compagnons on Voyage.—A Brandy-sucker.—Prohibition for Mexico.—Talks with the Coachman and Mozo.—Hides and Shoes.—San Antonio.—Its Casa and Inmates—Rancho Beauties.—Women's Rights in Mexico.—Sermonizing in the Wilderness.—A Night on Stage-top.—Fantastic Forms.—Spiritual Phantasms.—Light in a dark Place.—Matamoras and Brownsville 403
XIV.
THE FINISH.
Coach, not Couch.—A new Tread-mill.—Rascality of a Sub-treasurer.—The same Country, but another Driver.—Live-oak versus Mesquite.—A sandy Desert as large as Massachusetts.—Not a complete Desert.—A dirty, but hospitable Rancho.—Thousands of Cattle on no Hill.—A forty-mile Fence.—A Patch of four hundred square Miles.—Mr. King's Rancho and Pluck.—Perils.—Mr. Murdock's Murder.—Corpus Christi.—Indianola.—Good-bye Page 418
XV.
CHRISTIAN WORK IN MEXICO.
Not yet.—The First Last.—A Telegram and its Meaning.—Perils and Perplexities of Church purchasing.—Temptation resisted.—Success and Dedication.—Cure Hidalgo and his Revolution.—Iturbide and Intolerance.—Beginning of the End.—The Mexican War, and its Religious Effects.—The Bible and the Preacher.—The first Revolt from Romanism.—Abolition of Property and of Institutions.—Invasion of the Papacy through France and Maximilian.—Expulsion thereof through America and Juarez.—The Constitutionalists the first Preachers.—The first Martyr: "Viva Jesus! Viva Mexico!"—Francisco Aguilar and the first Church.—The Bible and his Death.—First Appeal abroad.—Response.—Rev. Dr. Riley and his Work.—Excitement, Peril, Progress.—President Juarez, the first Protestant President.—The chief native—Apostle, Manual Aguas.—His Excommunication by and of the Archbishop.—A powerful Attack on the Church.—His Death.—The Entrance of the American Churches in their own Form.—Their present Status.—The first American Martyr, Stephens; and how he was butchered.—San Andres.—Governmental Progress.—The Outlook.—Postfatory 424
Appendix A 455
Appendix B 456
Appendix C 461
Appendix D 466
ILLUSTRATIONS.
| Page | |||
| Cathedral and Plaza by Moonlight | Frontispiece | ||
| The Bay of Havana | 23 | ||
| Governor's Palace at Vera Cruz | 37 | ||
| Vera Cruz | 45 | ||
| Fountain at Vera Cruz | 50 | ||
| Old Bridge of Atoyac | 59 | ||
| Orange Grove, Cordova | 61 | ||
| A Peon's House | 66 | ||
| Great Bridge of Mathata | 67 | ||
| View of Orizaba | 69 | ||
| River at Orizaba | 71 | ||
| The Organ Cactus | 77 | ||
| Maguey Plant | 82 | ||
| The Valley of Mexico, from the American official Map | faces | 89 | |
| Mexican Flower-girl | 91 | ||
| First Protestant Church | 94 | ||
| Chapultepec | 101 | ||
| Church of Guadalupe | faces | 102 | |
| The Lottery-ticket | 104 | ||
| Iztaccihuatl. | 106 | ||
| The Dome | 108 | ||
| The Market-place, City of Mexico | 112 | ||
| San Cosme Aqueduct, City of Mexico | 117 | ||
| The Palace of Mexico | 119 | ||
| The Aztec Calendar Stone | 122 | ||
| The Sacrificial Stone | faces | 123 | |
| Interior of a modern Mexican House | 124 | ||
| The Palisades of Regla | 153 | ||
| A Mexican General | 158 | ||
| Tree of Triste Noche | 171 | ||
| Garden of the Tivolis, San Cosme | 173 | ||
| Street View in Puebla | 177 | ||
| Ruins of the covered Way to the Inquisition | 179 | ||
| The Cathedral of Puebla | 182 | ||
| Convent of San Domingo, City of Mexico | 186 | ||
| Prisoners of the Inquisition | 188 | ||
| Church built by Cortez | 195 | ||
| Pyramid of Cholula | 198 | ||
| View from the Pyramid of Cholula | 200 | ||
| The Tree of Montezuma | 222 | ||
| The Baths of Montezuma | 225 | ||
| The Canal | 227 | ||
| Floating Gardens | 229 | ||
| Saw-mill | 245 | ||
| Planting Corn | 247 | ||
| Scene in Market | 249 | ||
| A Water-carrier | 255 | ||
| Soldiers' Monument in the American Cemetery | 261 | ||
| Cactus, and Woman kneading Tortillas | 270 | ||
| Mexican Beggar | 280 | ||
| Aqueduct of Queretaro | 284 | ||
| Queretaro | 288 | ||
| A Cotton Factory, Queretaro | 291 | ||
| Church of San Diego, Guanajuato | 305 | ||
| Mexican Wash-house | faces | 317 | |
| Funeral of Governor Manuel Doblado | 317 | ||
| Mexican Muleteer | 336 | ||
| The Virgin | 348 | ||
| Joseph | 349 | ||
| Buena Vista | 381 | ||
| Saddle Mountain | 391 | ||
| Bishop's Residence, Monterey | 393 | ||
| Alameda, Monterey | 397 | ||
| The Itinerary—from Vera Cruz to Matamoras | 415 | ||
| Church of San Francisco, City of Mexico | 425 | ||
| First Methodist Episcopal Church, City of Mexico | 430 | ||
| A distant View of the Church of the Ex-convent of San Francisco, City of Mexico | 437 | ||
| Church of San Jose de Gracia | 442 | ||
| Manuel Aguas | 444 | ||
| John L. Stephens | 448 | ||
| Tower and Castle of Acapulco, Mexico—Scene of the recent Massacre | 451 | ||