120 TRAVELS ON THE RIO NEGRO. [May,
and Chile, across to Brazil, through Para to Barra, and now proposed going by the Rio Branco to Demerara, and so to the United States. He supported himself by selling the deaf and dumb alphabet, with explanations in Spanish and Portuguese. He carried a little slate, on which he could write anything in English or French, and also a good deal in Spanish, so that he could always make his wants known. He made himself at home in every house in Barra, walking in and out as he liked, and asking by signs for whatever he wanted. He was very merry, fond of practical jokes, and of making strange gesticu- lations. He pretended to be a phrenologist ; and on feeling the head of a Portuguese or Brazilian would always write down on his slate, " Very fond of the ladies ; " which on being trans- lated would invariably elicit, " He verdade" (that's very true), and signs of astonishment at his penetration. He was a great smoker, and would drink wine and spirits so freely as some- times to make him carry his antics to a great length ; still he was much liked, and will be long remembered by the people of Barra. But, poor fellow ! he was never to see his native land again : he died a few months after, at the fortress of Sao Joaquim, on the Rio Branco, — it was said, of jaundice.
Notwithstanding all this, the time passed heavily enough ; and though Mr. Hauxwell soon after arrived to add to our party, still nothing could make up for the desolation and death which the incessant rains appeared to have produced in all animated nature. Between two and three months passed away in this unexciting monotony, when, the river having nearly risen to its height, and there being some appearance of the weather improving, I determined on taking a journey to the Solimoes (as the Amazon is called above the entrance of the Rio Negro), to the estate of Senhor Brandao, my kind host's father-in-law.
The river was now so high that a great portion of the low- lands between the Rio Negro and the Amazon was flooded, being what is called " Gapo." This is one of the most singular features of the Amazon. It extends from a little above San- tarem up to the confines of Peru — a distance of about seven- teen hundred miles — and varies in width on each side of the river from one to ten or twenty miles. From Santarem to Coarf, a little town on the Solimoes, a person may go by canoe in the wet season without once entering into the main river.
