CHAPTER X.
first ascent of the river uaupés.
Rapid Current — An Indian Malocca — The Inmates — A Festival — Paint and Ornaments — Illness — Sāo Jeronymo — Passing the Cataracts — Jauarité — The Tushaúa Calistro — Singular Palm — Birds — Cheap Provisions — Edible Ants, and Earthworms — A Grand Dance — Feather Ornaments — The Snake-dance — The Capí — A State Cigar — Ananárapicóma — Fish — Chegoes — Pass down the Falls — Tame Birds — Orchids — Piums — Eating Dirt — Poisoning — Return to Guia — Manoel Joaquim — Annoying Delays.
At length the long-looked-for canoe arrived, and we immediately made preparations for our voyage. Fish-hooks and knives and beads were looked out to suit the customers we were going among, and from whom Senhor L. hoped to obtain farinha and sarsaparilla: and I, fish, insects, birds, and all sorts of bows, arrows, blowpipes, baskets, and other Indian curiosities.
On the 3rd of June, at six in the morning, we started. The weather had cleared up a few days before, and was now very fine. We had only two Indians with us, the same who had run away from Javíta, and who had been paid their wages beforehand, so we now made them work it out. Those who had just returned from Barra were not willing to go out again immediately, but we hoped to get plenty on entering the Uaupés. The same afternoon we reached São Joaquim, at the mouth of that river; but as there were no men there, we were obliged to go on, and then commenced our real difficulties, for we had to encounter the powerful current of the overflowing stream. At first some bays, in which there were counter-currents, favoured us; but in more exposed parts, the waters rushed along with such violence, that our two paddles could not possibly move the canoe.
