Page:A narrative of travels on the Amazon and Rio Negro.djvu/268

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CHAPTER XII.

the cataracts of the uaupes.

Start for the Uaupés — São Jeronymo and Jauarité — Indians run Away — Numerous Cataracts — Reach Carurú — Difficult Passage — Painted Malocca — Devil Music — More Falls — Ocokí — Curious Rocks — Reach Uarucapurí — Cobeu Indians — Reach Mucúra — An Indian's House and Family — Height above the Sea — Tenente Jesuino — Return to Uarucapurí — Indian Prisoners — Voyage to Jauarité — Correcting the Calendar — Delay at São Jeronymo.

At length, on the 16th of February, two months and twenty-three days after my arrival at São Joaquim, I left on my voyage up the Uaupés. I was still so weak that I had great difficulty in getting in and out of the canoe; but I thought I should be as well there as confined in the house; and as I now longed more than ever to return home, I wished first to make this voyage, and get a few living birds and animals to take with me. I had seven Uaupés Indians that Senhor L. had brought from São Jeronymo, in order to take me up the river. Three more, who had already received payment for the voyage, did not appear; and, though they knew very well the time of my leaving, had fixed on that very day to give a feast of fish and caxirí, Antonio, my former pilot to Barra, was one. I met him coming to the village from his sitio, and he flatly refused to come with me, unless I waited some days more for him; I therefore made him send his Macu boy, João, instead, to go and return, and so pay for what both owed. This he did, and we went on our way rejoicing, for Antonio was what they call an Indian "ladino," or crafty; he could speak Portuguese, and, strongly suspecting him of being an expert thief, 1 was not sorry to be without his company.

On Saturday evening, the 21st, we arrived at São Jeronymo, where I was cordially received by Senhor Augustinho. The