240 TRAVELS ON THE RIO NEGRO. [March,
third of a mile wide, but the bends and turns are innumerable ; and at every rapid it almost always spreads out into such deep bays, and is divided into channels by so many rocks and islands, as to make one sometimes think that the water is suddenly flowing back in a direction contrary to that it had previously been taking. Caruru caxoeira itself is greater than any we had yet seen, — rushing amongst huge rocks down a descent of perhaps fifteen or twenty feet. The only way of passing this, was to pull the canoe over the dry rock, which rose considerably above the level of the water, and was rather rugged, being interrupted in places by breaks or steps two or three feet high. The canoe was accordingly unloaded, quantities of poles and branches cut and laid in the path to prevent the bottom being much injured by the rocks, and a messenger sent to the village on the other side of the river to request the Tushaiia to come with plenty of men to our assistance. He soon arrived with eleven Indians, and all hands set to work pushing the canoe, or pulling at the sipos ; and even then, the strength of five-and-twenty persons could only move it by steps, and with great difficulty. However,- it was at length passed, and we then proceeded to the village, where the Tushaiia lent us a house.
The canoe was so weak in the bottom in one place, that I was fearful of some accident in my descent, so I determined to stay here two or three days, to cut out the weak part and put in a strong board. I now also saw that this canoe was much too heavy to proceed further up the river, as at many of the falls there was no assistance to be obtained, even in places as difficult to pass as Caruru ; so I opened negotiations to purchase a very large " oba " of the Tushaiia, which, before leaving, I effected for an axe, a shirt and trousers, two cutlasses, and some beads. We were delayed here five entire days, owing to the difficulty of finding a tree of good wood sufficiently large to give a board of twelve or fourteen inches wide ; and at last I was obliged to be content with two narrow boards, clumsily inserted, rather than be exposed to more delay.
There was a large malocca here, and a considerable number of houses. The front of the malocca was painted very taste- fully in diamonds and circles, with red, yellow, white, and black. On the rocks were a series of strange figures, of which I took a sketch. The Indians were of the " Ananas " or Pine-
