Page:A narrative of travels on the Amazon and Rio Negro.djvu/288

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CHAPTER XIII.

são jeronymo to the downs.

Voyage down the Rio Negro — Arrive at Barra — Obtaining a Passport — State of the City — Portuguese and Brazilian Enterprise — System of Credit — Trade — Immorality, and its Causes — Leave Barra — A Storm on the Amazon — Sarsaparilla — A Tale about Death — Parã — The Yellow Fever — Sail for England — Ship takes Fire — Ten Days in the Boats — Get picked up — Heavy Gales — Short of Provisions — Storm in the Channel — Arrive at Deal.

At length, on the 23rd of April, I bade adieu, with much pleasure, to São Jeronymo. I stopped at several places to buy beiju, fish, pacovas, and any parrots I could meet with. My Indians went several times, early in the morning, to the gapó to catch frogs, which they obtained in great numbers, stringing them on a sipó, and, boiling them entire, entrails and all, devoured them with much gusto. 'The frogs are mottled of various colours, have dilated toes, and are called Juí.

On the 26th we reached São Joaquim, where I stayed a day, to make some cages for my birds, and embark the things I had left with Senhor Lima.

On the 28th I went on to São Gabriel, and paid my respects to the new Commandante, and then enjoyed a little conversation with my friend Mr. Spruce. Several of my birds died or were lost here, and at São Joaquim. A little black monkey killed and devoured two which had escaped from their cages, and one of my most valuable and beautiful parrots (a single specimen) was lost in passing the falls. I had left São Joaquim with fifty-two live animals (monkeys, parrots, etc.), which, in a small canoe, were no little trouble and annoyance.

I was lucky enough to get the Commandante to send a soldier with me in charge of the Correio, or post, and thus