chrome yellow in the proportion of about one part of blue to eight parts of yellow.
Eau de Nil. Tint white lead with medium chrome yellow, emerald green and a touch of Prussian blue.
Egyptian Green. Add two parts of raw umber and one part of lemon chrome yellow to white lead. Give the green tone to it by means of a little Prussian blue.
Elephant Green. A dark green, obtained by adding a little emerald green to black.
Emerald Green. This beautiful, bright green cannot be successfully imitated. It must not be mixed with ultramarine. The pigment is a great favorite with some painters, while others never use it. In this country the pigment is known as Paris green, but it is not used to any extent by painters, although it is used as an insecticide. In the absence of the real thing, a more or less presentable imitation may be obtained by mixing eight parts of white lead and one part of medium chrome green, or a light shade of chrome green may be used without lead. Emerald green, although so bright, has very little body, but it is very useful for glazing. A thin finishing coat is given over a good green ground to brighten it.
Foliage Green. One part of blue black may be mixed with four parts of lemon chrome. Use medium chrome yellow if a darker shade is required.
French Green. This is a bright yellowish green, which may be obtained by adding to emerald or deep chrome green about one-tenth part chrome yellow. Yellow ochre is sometimes used instead.
Gage Green. This is a variety of sage green. It may be made in the same way as pea green, and when that is reached a little black should be added to bring it to the required sage color.
Genuine Green. This is usually to be had ready mixed, but it varies considerably in name as well as in the exact tint.
Grass Green. The color sold as extra light chrome green
