Veranda Columns and Rails. Be sure that the surface is dry. Scrape and sandpaper loose paint from veranda columns and rails before first coating. Fill the cracks and nail holes with paint. See that there is no mildew on the base, skirting boards or lattice work caused by dampness underneath the porches and verandas. Knife putty into cracks and nail holes before applying finishing coat. Use the same paint as for the building, well brushed out on the round columns and turned work.
Veranda and Porch Floors. Sweep the floor clean, also remove dirt from cracks so that the paint can be brushed into them. Paint applied too heavily on floors will not dry solid and will soon scuff up. Be sure there is no dampness coming from underneath, as such will cause the paint to blister or peel and not allow of proper hardening. It is very hard to avoid blistering in the repainting of floors that have been kept oiled. First wash the floor with turpentine and wipe off dry, then apply a thin coat of paint mixed half flat. Allow ample time for the paint to harden, then apply the finishing coat mixed with 2-3 oil and 1-3 turpentine, well brushed out.
On old floors that have been kept well painted, one coat is often sufficient. Where they are badly weather-beaten they should receive a coat of paint of good consistency mixed with 2-3 oil and 1-3 turpentine. When hard dry, putty the cracks, nail holes and seams, then apply a coat of paint of heavier consistency mixed with the same proportions of oil and turpentine. The floors and steps should not receive the finishing coat until all of the other painting has been completed.
The fence should receive the same care as to preparing the work for painting as the building. Sweep and dust the work thoroughly before painting. The same mixture of paint should be used on the fence as on the house and the fence trimmed with the same color.
Old Work—One Coat. Where the paint has stood for two
