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that the other shades can be worked in afterward. When finished, the shades should blend into each other, showing no harsh outlines. It is much better to begin working in the middle of a leaf or petal, and throw your thread to opposite sides of your needle in the two halves. In working leaves, study their formation and direct your work accordingly. In a chrysanthemum or oak leaf, for instance, it is easier to treat each division as a separate leaf, beginning at the top of each and working down toward the main stem, so directing your stitches meanwhile as to join the parts harmoniously. It is an excellent plan to keep a sampler on which to try stitches and effects of color. In working flowers with petals closely set together, as the chrysanthemum, corn-flower, etc., it is sometimes necessary to divide the petals by a line of a darker shade. This should be put in the last thing, as otherwise it is liable to be lost in the work. This holds true of veinings also. It is well to remember that needle-work is decorative mainly, and should not be elaborated like a painting. Two or three shades, are as a rule, sufficient in leaf or flower, and where either is small a single shade may answer. Narrow leaves look best worked in satin stitch. The centres of many flowers are worked in what is called the French knot. It is also used for working the anthers to some flowers. To make it, having brought your needle through the material at the spot where your knot is to be made, wind the thread three times round the needle close to the spot where the thread came through. Then turn the point of the needle down through the place where it first came up, holding the thread firmly in the left hand until it is quite drawn through (Fig. 9). The twisted threads must be held very close to the work, or the knot will have a loose, untidy appearance. When the work is coarse, the thread can be doubled or the number of knots increased. In filled in embroidery, as