In assembling the plug care should be taken to see that the pack nut is not tightened too much so as to crack the porcelain, and the distance between the sparking points should be 132″ ,about the thickness of a smooth dime.
Dirty plugs usually result from an excess of oil being carried in the crank case—or from using oil of poor quality.
| How is the Power Plant removed from Car? | Answer No. 32 |
(1) Drain the water out of the radiator and disconnect the radiator hose;
(2) disconnect the radiator stay rod which holds it to the dash;
(3) take out the two bolts which fasten the radiator to the frame and take radiator off;
(4) disconnect the dash at the two supporting brackets which rest on the frame;
(5) loosen the steering post bracket, fastened to the frame, when the dash and steering gear may be removed as one assembly—the wires first having been disconnected;
(6) take out the bolts holding the front radius rods in the socket underneath the crank case;
(7) remove the four bolts at the universal joint;
(8) remove pans on either side of cylinder casting and turn off gasoline, disconnect feed pipe from carburetor;
(9) disconnect exhaust manifold from exhaust pipe by unscrewing large brass pack nut;
(10) take out the two cap screws which hold the crank case to the front frame;
(11) remove the bolts which hold the crank case arms to the frame at the side. Then pass a rope through the opening between the two middle cylinders and tie in a loose knot. Through the rope pass a "2x4," or a stout iron pipe about ten feet long and let a man hold each end; let a third man take hold of the starting crank handle, when the whole power plant can be lifted from the car to the work bench for adjustment.
| Connecting Rod Bearings—how adjusted? | Answer No. 33 |
Connecting rod bearings may be adjusted, without taking out the engine, by the following method: (1) drain off the oil; (2) remove plate on bottom of crank case—exposing connecting rods; (3) take off first connecting rod cap, and draw-file the ends—a very little at a time; (4) replace cap, being careful to see that file marks correspond, and tighten bolts until it fits shaft snugly; (5) test tightness of bearing by turning engine over by the starting handle. Experienced mechanics usually determine when the bearing is properly fitted by lightly tapping each side of the cap with a hammer; (6) then loosen the bearing and proceed to fit the other bearings in the same manner; (7) after each bearing has been properly fitted and tested—then tighten the cap bolts and the work is finished.
Remember, there is a possibility of getting the bearings too tight, and under such conditions the babbitt is apt to cut out quickly, unless precaution is taken to run the motor slowly at the start. It is a good plan after adjusting the bearings to jack up the rear wheels and let the motor run slowly for about two hours (keeping it well supplied with water and oil) before taking it out on the road. Whenever possible these bearings should be fitted by an expert Ford mechanic.
Worn connecting rods may be returned, prepaid, to the nearest dealer or branch house for exchange at a price of $1.00 each to cover the cost of rebabbitting. It is not advisable for any owner or repair shop to attempt the rebabbitting of connecting rods or main bearings, for without a special jig in which to form the bearings,
