miles from the point reached by Gosse in his journey from South Australia. In this cheerless situation he waited with anxiety for his companions, when he would decide, from the condition of their horses, whether to advance or retreat. Near by were stone sandstone ranges, and Forrest remarks in his map:—"From the ranges to the north and east, the horizon was as level and uniform as that of the sea; apparently spinifex everywhere; no hills or ranges for over thirty miles; most wretched desert."
On Sunday, 5th July, Alexander Forrest and the remainder of the party arrived at the camp. They had not passed this dreary tract without difficulty; two horses were abandoned some miles back, and the others, while in fair condition, were hungry and tired. Next day the whole party retreated fourteen miles to the south-west, where was sufficient water to last for nearly two days. On that and the following day John Forrest and Pierre, and Alexander Forrest and Windich, went out in different directions to search for water, for in the event of non-success, retreat was inevitable. Alexander Forrest and Windich found sufficient on the second day to last for two or three weeks. It was an encouraging and fortunate discovery. But there was a disheartening absence of feed. Because of this Alexander Forrest and Pierre started on a flying trip next day, the 9th, to find better country. They traversed clear open sand plains and red sand hills covered with spinifex. But though they found more water they did not see any grass, and turned disconsolately back towards the party. Just when their hopes were lowest, and their horses exhausted, they joyfully surveyed, on the 11th, a beautiful patch of grazing country—the first, for 130 miles. Upon going to the largest gully in this locality they beheld abundance of water. On the 13th horses and men were camped at this place, and the spring was named Alexander Spring, in honour of its discoverer. A cairn was placed on a flat-topped hill—named Mount Allot, after the Mayor of Adelaide—about fifty chains from the camp, and a neighbouring hill was named Mount Worsnop, in compliment to the town clerk of Adelaide. John Forrest and Windich left the party on 16th July to find water ahead. After traversing spinifex sand hills and salt marsh flats, and passing sandstone cliffs, from which many creeks trailed out into sombre spinifex plains, they came upon water on the 17th in gorges of the cliffs. Next day enough water was found to last for a month, and the site was named Blyth Creek, after the Chief Secretary of South Australia. The party joined them on the 20th. They were now about 100 miles from Gosse's limit. But the country between the two points was some of the worst and most terrible they had yet met, and, indeed, was that which caused Gosse to retreat. By searching on the rocky eminences in the spinifex they had been able to secure small supplies of water here and there. But now many days of close searching could not discover sufficient to sustain horses on the march. Several flying trips were made in vain from Blyth Creek, and the leaders became troubled in mind. They were 1,000 miles from Western Australian settlement, and after going so far it seemed discouraging that they should turn back. John Forrest writes in his journal of 2nd August:—"The thought of having to return, however, brought every feeling of energy and determination to my rescue, and I felt that, with God's help, I would even now succeed." He gave instructions that the party should be allowanced so that the stores might last four months, and prepared "for a last desperate struggle."
The day after writing this the indomitable leader, whose faculties and experience were now so greatly required, and the faithful Tommy Windich left camp for the north-east, with instructions to Alexander Forrest to follow two days later. Some twenty miles away their good fortune led them to rock holes filled with water. Slight rain had fallen, and helped to save them in their extremity. By the 8th August they were in regions traversed by Gosse, and were gladly entered upon granite country again, where on the same date they discovered water by which the whole party might camp. Thus "when everything looked at its worst, then all seemed to change," wrote Forrest. The explorers were here able to wash themselves, for as a rule washing the body and brushing the hair were out of the question. Indeed, Forrest says he was now dirty and ragged. The whole party rested at this place on the 11th. John Forrest and Windich again went forward on the 12th, and by following emu tracks next day they entered a gully and found a fine spring of fresh water. The desolate tract was traversed, and on that day the leader announced publicly to his companions that they were now in safety, although some weeks of travelling from the telegraph line. He remarks in his journal:—"I need not add how pleased all were at having at last bridged over that awful, desolate spinifex desert."
The succeeding country was already known, but the dangers and sufferings of the Forrest expedition were by no means ended. Tracks of horses had previously been seen, and additional ones were now surveyed, and Forrest, knowing that the latter could not be those of Gosse, conceived that they must have been made by Giles. Finally, on Sunday, 16th August, Windich found a gum tree marked
E. GILES |
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Oct. 7, '73 |
Again, on the same day, they came upon the tracks of a cart, which must have belonged to Gosse. Beaten tracks were observed a few miles away leading into a gully, and recognising that they were made by horses daily going to water, they followed them, and found the camp of previous explorers, where there was a beautiful spring running a quarter of a mile down the gully. A large bush hut and stock-yard had been built there, and a garden made. This spring was named Fort Mueller by Mr. Giles. On the 16th a large number of armed natives followed the main party for some distance and the explorers were finally compelled to fire on them—not killing any.
Springs were found on the border line between the two colonies just when they were in need of water, and named Elder Springs, after Mr. Thomas Elder, of South Australia. The horses were reduced to mere skeletons by their intense privations, and it was wonderful how they had kept up so long. Only four were abandoned. Natives were numerous in the country between the border and the telegraph line, and on 3rd September Forrest and Windich surprised 100 camped in a flat and feasting on kangaroos. Many of the blacks rushed towards them hurling spears, but the firing of revolvers frightened them away. The last long stretch of waterless country was surmounted by 4th September, and thenceforward the route lay through a better class of land, where water was obtained at easy intervals.
That desirable stage in this tremendous journey—the trans-continental telegraph line—was sighted on rounding a clump of trees on Sunday, 27th September. Long and continued cheers broke from the solitary band when they first saw this proof of the success of their energy, and the leader recorded in his journal:—"I felt rejoiced and relieved from anxiety, and on reflecting on the long line of travel we had performed through an unknown country, almost a wilderness, felt very thankful to that
