CHAPTER XVIII.
DEPARTURE FOR GUATIMALA—ESPARZA—TOWN OF COSTA RICA—THE BARRANCA—WILD SCENERY—HACIENDA OF ARANJUEZ—RIVER LAGARTOS—CERROS OF COLLITO—HERDS OF DEER—SANTA ROSA—DON JUAN JOSÉ BONILLA—AN EARTHQUAKE—A CATTLE FARM—BAGASES—GUANACASTE—AN AGREEABLE WELCOME—BELLE OF GUANACASTE—PLEASANT LODGINGS—CORDILLERAS—VOLCANOES OF RINCON AND OROSI—HACIENDA OF SAN TERESA—SUNSET VIEW—THE PACIFIC AGAIN.
On the thirteenth day of February I mounted for my journey to Guatimala. My equipage was reduced to articles of the last necessity: a hammock of striped cotton cloth laid over my pellon, a pair of alforgas, and a poncha strapped on behind. Nicolas had strung across his alvarda a pair of leather cohines, in shape like buckets, with the inner side flat, containing biscuit, chocolate, sausages, and dolces, and in front, on the pommel, my wearing apparel rolled up in an ox-hide, after the fashion of the country. During my whole stay at the convent the attentions of the padre were unremitted. Besides the services he actually rendered me, I have no doubt he considers that he saved my life; for during my sickness he entered my room while I was preparing to shave, and made me desist from so dangerous an operation. I washed my face by stealth, but his kindness added another to the list of obligations I was already under to the padres of Central America.
I felt great satisfaction at being able once more to resume my journey, pleased with the lightness of my equipage, the spirit of my mules, and looked my journey of 1,200 miles boldly in the face. All at once I heard a clattering behind, and Nicolas swept by me on a full run. My macho was what was called espantoso, or scary, and started. I had very little strength, and was fairly run away with. If I had bought my beasts for racing I should have had no reason to complain; but, unluckily, my saddle turned, and I came to the ground, fortunately clearing the stirrups, and the beast ran, scattering on the road, pistols, holsters, saddle-cloths, and saddle, and continued on bare-backed toward the town. To my great relief, some muleteers intercepted him, and saved my credit as a horseman in San José. We were more than an hour in recovering scattered articles and repairing broken trappings.
For three days my road was the same that I had travelled in entering Costa Rica. The fourth morning I rose without any recur-
