Page:Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine.djvu/257

This page has been validated.
APPENDIX.
211

would take us to Mount Hor and Petra. As we could not come to terms, camp was moved in the afternoon towards the Wâdy 'Arabah and pitched in Wâdy Harûn. The Arabs then gave way and acceded to the terms we had stipulated for. Next morning we started before daylight and returned to the ruins we had visited before; from thence we ascended by a steep zig-zag path to a saddle on the Mount Hor range. Passing along a slightly descending ridge we soon came to the base of a mountain rising from the ridge: this is Mount Hor, being actually from this side a mountain on a mountain, though, from the north the descent is much more precipitous to a far lower level. Unfortunately, the morning was exceptionally hazy, so that it was difficult to distinguish surrounding features.

An old path, similar to that on Jebel Mûsa, with worn steps made out of boulders at difficult parts, led up the mountain to another level space or platform, from which the highest peak rises abruptly. Passing over some ruined arches on an ancient cistern or building, the path leads up steeply by steps cut out of the rock itself to the summit, where there is the usual little round dome on a square building covering the tomb of the patriarch Aaron. Looking inside, one saw the usual carpet covered cenotaph, with some ostrich eggs hanging over it—all in an uncared-for condition. We had to wait some hours on the summit owing to the mist which hung in dense clouds about us until 12 o'clock, when it partially cleared, and was able to take some observations which were necessary for extending the triangulation to the north. After observing, we made our way rapidly down to Petra, and were able to visit the ruins and the more important tombs. There was no time to make a thorough investigation, but I was able to verify the accuracy of Laborde's plan of the place, and was much struck with the stupendous works in rock-cutting that had been undertaken and executed with the nicest accuracy; also with the immense number of tombs, the ornamentations being as fresh and clear as when first cut, particularly those at Pharaoh's treasures. The colours of the rocks are wonderfully variegated, and most brilliant; red to purple and blue are the most predominant colours, and these are set off by a cold grey background of limestone hills.

The ruins and tombs would doubtless well repay a thorough investigation.

It was dark when we got to the pass we had come up at dawn in the morning, and we reached camp about 9 p.m. after a long day.

Arrangements having been made with the Sheikh of our party to take