Page:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus (1908).djvu/31

This page has been validated.
INTRODUCTION.
25

Our cook is a brilliant success, and feeds us in great splendour.

Our other men are to-day occupied in washing our clothes, though I doubt if the results will be all that can be desired.

We came across the man who got the two guns over the Shandur Pass (Relief of Chitral). He made us feed and camp at his place, and had the mountain battery paraded for our delectation. I rather expect he will look us up in a day or two.

Our first business will be to get into condition. I expect we shall start for an 18,000 or 19,000-ft. peak to-morrow ; there are plenty about here, but mostly snqw grinds. However, that is good for the wind.

I don't think there will be any serious mountaineering difficulties on Nanga, and the peak is much freer from hanging glaciers than I had expected. I fancy the ascent will be mainly a question of endurance.

We are in excellent health, but our legs don't work so well as they should, so we shall devote three weeks to having walks.

You may expect, therefore, to get a wire about a month from date (17th August) or a few days later.

Our expedition has been notified to all the local authorities, and instructions given to help us in any way we want. You can, therefore, picture us well provided and taken care of.