colour is a delicate pink, interrupted by three or four pale yellowish bands which run down the sides. The scales, however, which are very large, are removed with a slight degree of force; and wherever this occurs, there is a deposit of blood at the injured part below the outer skin; manifested by the colour becoming then of a purplish red, and hence we so commonly see this fish, especially after it has been handled, marbled with patches of purple and scarlet upon the delicate rose-colour of the ground.
The Surmullet is much esteemed for the table; the flesh is of agreeable flavour, and easy of digestion. It is customary to prepare it for cooking without drawing, like the Woodcock; the reason in both cases being that the food consists of soft molluscous or annellidous animals, of which little traces remain in the intestines. The Romans carried their admiration of this fish to a most extravagant pitch in the luxurious times of the Empire. The satirical poets, lashing the vices and follies of the age, have given us some particulars of this mania, only surpassed by the Tulip-madness which raged in Holland in the 17th century, when a sum equal to 425l. sterling, together with a carriage, horses, and harness, was given for a single bulb. One Calliodorus gave a sum of money equal to ten guineas for a Surmullet of four pounds' weight; one of six pounds was bought for 48l.; one still larger for 64l.; and three of equal size were purchased by the Emperor for the same entertainment at the enormous price of 243l. 10s. At length Tiberius attempted to restrain the extravagance by imposing a tax upon all provisions brought to market.
