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CONTENTS
Santa Cruz―The Government Employé―His Appearance on Sunday―Mendicancy in Teneriffe―Jocular Beggars―The Population of Santa Cruz―Hospitals―The Theatre―The Philharmonic Society―Reading and Billiard Rooms―Santa Cruz from the Sea―The Roadstead―Variety of the Scene―A Visit to the Country―Preparations for the Journey―Stay at Matanza―My Host and Hostess―The Blue Blood of a Teneriffe Lady―Strange Household Ornament―A Dangerous Staircase―A Tormenting Boy―Antonio's Amusement―The Oppression of Extreme Friendship―The Martyrdom of an Artist―A Favourable Diversion of the Enemy―Useless Hints―The Fate of my Paint-box―Antonio Poisoned―A False Alarm. . . . . . . 263
Impression produced by the Peak―The Grandeur of Nature contrasted with the Degradation of Man―Great number of Beggars―The Cry for Cuartos―Rhyming Mendicants―The Decline of Teneriffe―Destruction of the Vines―Public Burdens―Miserable Condition of the Poorer Inhabitants―Immense Number of Government Employés―Expensive Military Staff―The Governor―Extent of the Civil Department of Government―Dependence in Spain on Government Employment―The Pretendientes―Aversion to Commercial Situations―Caste in Modern Society―The Islands Drained of their Means by the Extravagance of the Spanish Home Government―Demoralizing Influence of the Spanish Authorities―Extortion from the Poor―Uncertain Situation of the Employés―Intrigue for Office―Leave Matanza―Our Retinue―Amusement on the Road―Improvisation―Arrive at Santa Ursula―Difficulties about Breakfast―The Everlasting No―A Sudden Resolution and Unexpected Eruption―We Forage for Ourselves―The Young Lady without a Novio―Our Journey Resumed. . . . . . . 281
Valley of Orotava―Its Beautiful Appearance―Roman Catholic Festivals―The Amusements of our Guides―Peasant Girls―Their Conversation with the Camel-Driver―Bencomo, the Guanche King―Our Journey Resumed―A Second Meeting and Conversation with the Peasant Girls―The Mysterious Songster―The Ventriloquist―Our Destination Reached―The
