199
name Taira signifies “a plain.” It is surrounded on most sides by hills, which towards the North-west and West rise into mountains of considerable elevation. The plain is entirely under rice cultivation, and crossed only by the common narrow paths of the settled districts of the country. The ruins—as I took them to be—of the former daimio’s castle, stand on a hill just over the town.
Proceeding direct to the Government office, a temporary looking building occupied by a number of officials sitting at desks, I was at once introduced to the chief. He received me civilly, inquired about the particulars of the wreck, and promised to have quarters prepared for all the people, and forward them on their way to Yedo, being the nearest foreign settlement, distance 5612 ri (138 miles English). When I told him, however, that, being a resident of Hakodate, I requested a passport for the purpose of proceeding thence overland, he demurred and sought to convince me that my proper course was to return to Yokohama. I therefore left him and put up at a native hotel where I ordered a horse, purchased a blanket, a Japanese pipe and tobaccco, and was nearly ready to start when Captain Newell and the rest of the people arrived. As the ship’s interpreter had not yet come on, I assisted in getting them billeted.
About half-past two an officer came to inform me that the idea of my travelling North—was, as he expressed it, “mudzkashi”; a word difficult of complete expression in English, but in this case meaning that the chief official would not give his permission. My mind was however made up, and I therefore informed him that being ready to start I should not wait even half an hour for the passport, but proceed without one. He seemed in great tribulation and went back to the government office.
I then told the man with the horse, who had already packed my scanty shew of baggage, to proceed on the northern road, and after a few minutes, I followed on foot. Outside the town I mounted on the pack saddle, and, with the horse led by coolie,—which is invariably done in this part of Japan—I commenced my journey in earnest.
