Marcx 8, 1872. THE BUILDING NEWS. 199
- PLUMBING.—V.
(Continued from page 171.) "WNHE eutters referred to in the last two articles are of the style practised, especially where stone is the principal material used in construction.* In the case of cottages or houses with projecting roofs, Figs. 11 and 12, many little differences in
detail occur, and the plumber must make his lead suit the place. ‘To assist in putting the lead into its site in channel in such gutters as here depicted, and also those at page 95, the plumber often gets a piece of wood made the same shape as gutter channel, only a little narrower, and about 3ft. long or so, with which he beats lead into its seat by striking wood on top with his hammer, he standing on wood at same time, or else pressing it down with his knee. As regards ‘‘flashings,” while often put on as per Fig. 3, last article, they may sometimes, upon a large building, or where a very large quantity of water flows down flashing, be put on as per Fig. 13, where the lead is about 18in. or 20in. broad. The raised piece at T is a wooden fillet nailed on; it is about 1}in. high, and about 1tin. broad, over which lead is turned, as per dotted line, Fig. 13. Where flashings are put on up against a brick wall or chimney a different style has to be adopted from that described in former articles, as no raggles are cut in the brick the same as in stone. Y Z, at page 96, shows how raggle is cut up side of stone chimney, but instead of the straight line there shown in brickwork, the joints of bricks U serve for raggles, as per Fig. 14, the straight line V being line or pitch of roof. ‘There are various ways of putting on the flashings here, as some may put them on as per Fig. 15, with an apron going into bricks, and coming down over up- stand, as at W ; others use ‘‘ soakers,” or put on the flashing in pieces to suit the bricks and slates. ‘To hold the apron or the flash- ing into joint of bricks, lead bats can be used
W | fallen oheeaiaiGelG’
in some good brickwork. In other cases
some use wooden wedges, and others use
‘‘thumbats,” or iron holdfasts, about sin.
long, and with thin flat heads, as per Fig. 16.
After these lead or zine flashings haye been
fixed, the joints require to be cemented.
- The stone chimney depicted at page 96 is built of
polished freestone, the blocks at sides about 3ft. long, and about lft. high; those at ends of chimney 2ft. long, and some only Lt, for filling in,
The valleys, or ‘‘flanks,” as they are
termed by some, are the inclined channels
formed by two roofs meeting, say, at right
angles; the breadth of either lead or zinc
used is from 1ft. upwards. ‘‘ Doubling,” or
wooden fillet is put on all up each side of
these ‘ flanks,” especially if lead is used. If
zine be used, however, the wooden fillet is
often dispensed with, a small roll being
turned in on each side of zinc for slates.
After gutters, flashings, flanks, &c., have
been laid and slates put on, the ridges come
next. These may be put on in the simple
manner shown by dotted line Fig. 17, which
is that described at pp. 64 and 65, the breadth
of lead used being one foot, or more, if neces-
sary. If zine is used the common breadth in
many cases is one foot, but it may be used
broader when required, for the breadth of
material must be in accordance with its site.
Another plan for fastening on zine ridges is
to sroove out the wood ridge as per Fig. 18,
and drive in iron staples in the groove as
shown at X ; then, at corresponding distances,
galvanised iron, or, perhaps, copper hooks are
soldered on inside of zine ridges, as per
Fig. 19, which shows longitudinal section ;
after which zine ridge is put on and slid
along into its place, the hook going through
staple, and thus holding down ridge. To
hold edge of zinc ridge zine clipsare nailed over
the woodridge and their ends bent up, so as to
clasp edges of zinc after zine ridge is put on.
This plan, known as ‘‘ Fox’s Patent Underlock
Fastening,” is, so far as ridges are concerned,
more troublesome and expensive than the
former, described at pp. 64and 65, with straps,
Mec 9 ra
F1a.26 FIG
«J Fic.28 Fie.29 4
but it appears to have the advantage of doing
without holes through zine ridge, although
many may consider that holes in a good zine
ridge which are filled up by either a copper
or a lead-headed nail, and protected by
the galvanised iron strap, are in practice quite
harmless.
Another plan of putting on lead on ridges
is that shown by dotted line, Fig. 20, which —
requires the lead to be about 18in. or 20in.
broad. Fig. 21 is section of another style of
ridge; to hold on and keep in position the
round, wooden, baton-shouldered iron spikes
are used, which are first driven down into
the ridge-board below it, and holes being
bored in the wooden baton, it is put down on
spikes to the shoulder, and the top of spike,
projecting through hole, is bent over so as to
hold like a rivet. The lead or zinc is then put
on as per dotted line Fig. 21.
I shall now describe the method of using
lead and zinc in covering flats, or ‘‘ platforms”
as they are sometimes called, on the roofs of
houses, and shall, for illustration, take a flat
16ft. long and 12ft. broad, of which Fig. 22
shows section, and which is to be covered
with lead. In this case the water runs off at
each side of flat, the rise in centre being
about two or three inches.
Several things have to be attended to here.
A flashing about one foot broad, say of
sheet lead, 6lb. per square foot, has to be put
on all around front of flat, which flashing
can be cut in four pieces, two at about 17ft.
long for front of sides, and two at about 13ft.
long for front of ends. Four long strips of
lead about 4in. broad are also required to go
along front of flat for clinch, two at 16ft. and
two at 12ft. long. Then the lead for top of flat
has to be ent out, say, of 7lb. sheet lead, the
breadth of the several pieces depending,
of course, upon the number of rolls it
is intended to have in the length of flat.
We shall take the number of rolls at 7, which
