having committed many crimes while at home in Kham, and that, though the quiet one was not so bad a man, he had yet killed a fellow-creature in a quarrel. At all events neither would think twice before taking a man's life. The old dame thought it certain that they, or at least the impatient one, would pounce upon me as soon as we reached the north-west plains of Tibet, and rob me of all my money and effects, as well as of my life! Thereupon I said: "That could not be; for they are both men of great honesty and uprightness." She returned: "Konjogsum (Holy Trinity)! send to me death, if I tell a lie!" These are words of adjuration to which Tibetans attach great importance, and I could not persuade myself to regard my informant's warning as a mere string of falsehoods. So another trouble ahead was added to my burdened mind.
After travelling twelve days more and only making a distance of about one hundred miles, we reached a Himalayan village called Tukje, where then lived the local Governor, named Harkaman Suppa. Through Gya Lama's introduction I enjoyed the privilege of being received as a guest by this Governor. Two days after my arrival there the special man whom Gya Lama through his thoughtful kindness, as already told, had sent to accompany me so far, took leave of me, apparently well satisfied that my two servants were and would be all right. But they were far from being all right, and I felt that I would never be able to accomplish my journey unless I got rid of them. While I was worrying myself with these thoughts, I came across information about the route that lay before me that proved to me another source of discouragement. In effect, it was that three months before the Tibetan Government had detailed five soldiers to guard, against all foreigners and any strange person, the road in my route which lay through the State of
