Here there is an accommodation-house, and we stayed for lunch, and then some of the men convoyed us across the stony desert of the Karangarua. It is two or three miles across, one of the worst rivers when it is in flood, but that day we rode safely through its many streams. We could see the purple mouth of the gorge whence it issued, and the men told us there are several boiling springs up it, rarely seen by any but the Coasters. The high mountains were cloaked in mist; gorges and foot-hills were cut off by a level band of cloud; nothing to be seen but grey stones near hand, and distant purplish forest afar, under the soft, billowy mist. Later it cleared, and about five o’clock we were riding down to a lovely still ford, lying blue and fair in the sunshine. Long reaches of quiet water stretched under over-hanging trees, leading the eye up to distant blue mountains, across which lay the last wreaths of silvery cloud. Beyond the ford the land was cleared, and a few small settlements were dotted about. Truly a peaceful, lovely spot. I believe that it is the only quiet ford in South Westland—and we splashed through carelessly; and as I rode up to a wide, low house, I wondered why on earth we had arranged to go nine miles farther, when here was such a haven for the weary!
The horses were led away, and I was taken into a charming bedroom hung with white, all spotless and inviting; from this to a cheery parlour, where gay flowers bloomed in the window, and a tea-tray
