interested to know how we had got over the Haast—and then I was led into a fresh sweet room, all hung with white. In a few minutes my hostess returned with a dainty tray, some strips of toast, and a welcome cup of tea. I remember the impression the d’oyly on the tray made on me, and that cup of tea was just what I was longing for. Then she brought me hot water and some thick cream (which she said would cure my mosquito bites), and left me to get into dry garments. I was surprised to find my pack was dry, though it had been under water. It was very late when we finally sat down to supper—a supper to be remembered! There was roast goose, beautiful bread and butter, cream and cakes—and I really think that for once our appetites did not disappoint our hostess! And when I laid me down that night in the cool clean sheets, with a mosquito-net arranged over my head, I felt it was worth all we had been through in the hut and on the road, and better than resting “weary limbs at length on beds of asphodel.”
Next day I spent with my hostess. There were some necessary washing and repairs to be done for both of us, and Transome was busy putting the camera to rights (which he did not succeed in doing) and exploring along the Haast.
My hostess was a marvel to me. She was the only woman in the settlement, and besides her husband she had several men to “do” for.
