A Topographical Description of the State of Ohio, Indiana Territory, and Louisiana/Indiana
A
TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION
OF THE
INDIANA TERRITORY.
This part of the northwestern country was constituted a territorial government, by an act of Congress, passed the 7th day of May, 1800, and was bounded eastwardly by the following line of separation; viz. "All that part of the territory of the United States, northwest of the Ohio river which lies westward of a line beginning at the Ohio, opposite to the mouth of the Kentucky river, and running thence to fort Recovery, and thence north until it shall intersect the territorial line between the United States and Canada, shall, for the purpose of a temporary government, constitute a separate territory, and be called the Indiana Territory. And Saint Vincennes, on the Wabash river, shall be the seat of the government." Only the eastern boundary is named in the act, and the Indian claim of a large portion of the Territory is not extinguished. The whole tract, agreeable to this line, is bounded south by the Ohio, west by the Mississippi, and north by the line between the United States and Canada, which makes the extent of this Territory considerably greater than the State of Ohio.
The general face of the country approaches to a level, but some parts of it are hilly. It has a number of large, navigable rivers meandering through it to the Ohio and Mississippi, and many smaller streams, some of which run into the lakes.
The Wabash is a large river, rising near the head waters of the river St. Joseph, and the Miami at the lakes, and running in a southwesterly direction empties into the Ohio,about four hundred and seventy miles below the Great Miami river. It is four hundred yards wide at the mouth, and navigable for keel boats, about four hundred miles, to Ouiatan, an ancient French village; and from this village, with small craft, to a portage on a south branch, which forms a communication with the Miami that runs into Lake Erie. This portage is eight miles, and comes to the Miami near Fort Wayne.
From a north branch, by a short portage, a communication is made with the river Saint Joseph, running into Lake Michigan. The Wabash is replenished with numerous tributary streams, and has generally, a gentle current above Saint Vincennes. Below are several rapids. Those which principally obstruct the navigation are between Saint Vincennes and White river, called the great Rapids. Near the village Ouiatan, it is said a silver mine has been discovered, which it is apprehended will prove valuable. About forty miles below the village comes in the river Vermillion Jaune. On this river is the residence of the much famed Indian Prophet. The town in which he lives is large for an Indian village, and has received the name of the Prophet's town. Much of the land on the Wabash is rich and well timbered, but towards the head waters there is less timber, and very fertile and extensive prairies. A white and blue clay of an excellent quality is said to abound on this river. There are many salt springs, and plenty of lime and free stone.
Saint Vincennes is a handsome town, about an hundred miles from the mouth of the river, situated on the east bank, upon a beautiful, level, and rich spot of ground. It is the largest town in the Territory, and is made the seat of government. This was an ancient French fortress, called Post Saint Vincennes. Since the American revolution the town has been repaired and enlarged, and is now a very thriving place, but the inhabitants still are mostly French. There are more than an hundred houses, some of which are built of free stone, in a handsome style, a considerable number of merchantile stores, a post office and printing office. Here, a profitable trade is carried on in furs and peltry. The situation is healthy, the winters mild, and the rich and highly cultivated lands around it are delightful.
About forty miles from Saint Vincennes, in a southwesterly direction, is the Great Sabine, so called, where salt, in large quantities, is made. It is situated in hilly land, on a stream of water which flows into the Ohio. The land is still owned by the government of the United States, but rented to those who carry on the salt works, and who are said to obligate themselves to make, at least, a certain quantity annually, and are not permitted to sell it for more than at a stipulated price. The waters in this Saline are said to have double the strength of those at the great salt springs on the Scioto river.
The land on the Indiana side, bordering on the Ohio river, from the Great Miami nearly to the Mississippi, a distance of about six hundred miles, is generally hilly and broken, but some excellent bottoms, of different extent, are interspersed. From a small distance above fort Massai and down to the mouth of the Ohio, the land gradually becomes level, forming a rich and delightful prairie. In this distance, there are many small streams, but no considerable river, excepting the Wabash, which falls into the Ohio.
But on the opposite side, within a less distance three large, navigable rivers, besides numerous smaller streams, contribute their waters to the Ohio. The first is Kentucky river, which comes in about seventy miles following the bends of the river below the Great Miami, is ninety yards wide at its mouth, and the same width, when the water is high, eighty miles above. It is navigable for loaded boats, at a high stage of the water, two hundred miles. The second is the Cumberland, or Shawnee river, which falls into the Ohio about five hundred miles below the Kentucky river, and four hundred miles below the Rapids, and is three hundred yards wide at its mouth. There being no obstructions, and having a fine gentle current, ships of four hundred tons can descend in times of floods from the distance of about four hundred miles into the Ohio. The third is the Tennessee, or Cherokee river, which enters the Ohio, about twelve miles below the Cumberland; and is five hundred yards wide at its mouth. This is the largest river that empties into the Ohio. It is computed to be navigable for boats one thousand miles, and will admit vessels of considerable burden as far as the Muscle Shoals, which is two hundred and fifty miles from its mouth.
On the Indiana side of the Ohio, there are only some scattering settlements, excepting Jeffersonville, and Clarksville, two small villages, at the Rapids, one hundred and fifty miles below the Great Miami. Jeffersonville is situated in the bend of the river, on an high bank, just above the Rapids, where pilots are taken off for conducting vessels over them. It is a post town, but contains only a small number of inhabitants, and probably will never be a thriving place. Clarksville is another small village immediately below the Rapids, and opposite the elbow at Shippingport. In time it may become a place of considerable business. On the opposite bank, about midway between these two villages and opposite the Rapids, is Louisville, which is much larger, and bids fair to become a flourishing town. It is situated on an elevated plain, and contains about one hundred and fifty houses, a printing and a post office. It is a port of entry, and has a considerable number of mercantile stores, and several ware houses for storing goods. Shippingport is on the same side, at the foot of the falls. Here, boats generally make a landing after passing the Rapids. Ship building was began and was carried on with considerable spirit here, until it received a check by the late embargo law. Having an excellent harbour, the situation appears eligible for prosecuting this business to advantage.
The Rapids are occasioned by a ledge of rocks extending entirely across the river, and is the most dangerous place for navigation, in the whole extent of the Ohio river. The distance over them is about two miles, and the descent from a level above is twenty-two feet and a half. When the water is high the fall is only perceived by an increased velocity of the vessel, which is computed to be at the rate of about ten or twelve miles an hour. When the water is low, a large portion of the rocks are seen, and it is then that the passage becomes dangerous. There are three channels. One is on the north side, called Indian Schute, and is the main channel, but not passable when the water is high; another is near the middle of the river, and called the Middle Schute, and is safe and easy in all heights of water above the middle stage. The third is on the south side, called the Kentucky Schute, and is only passable when the water is high. Immediately above the falls, in the mouth of Beargrass creek, is a good harbour, having twelve feet of water in the lowest stage of the river. At the foot of the falls is another harbour, called Rock Harbour, with water sufficient, at all times, for vessels of any burden. These two harbours are of the greatest importance to those who have occasion to navigate this dangerous passage.
Opening a channel for the passage of ships by the Rapids has been seriously contemplated; which would be of immense advantage to the trade of the Ohio. That it is practicable cannot be doubted. The only difficulty seems to be to raise a fund sufficient for the purpose. It has been principally proposed to open the canal on the Kentucky side, to commence below Beargrass creek, and enter the river below Shippingport, a distance of about one mile and three quarters; and that it should be sufficient for ships of four hundred tons. The ground through which it would pass is a stiff clay, down to within about three feet of the flower of the canals which then is a rock. The average depth of the canal is computed at about twenty-one feet, in order to admit a column of water three feet by twenty-four, at the lowest stage of the river.[1] In passing down the Ohio, about forty miles below the Wabash, a curious cave is seen in a high bank, on the Indiana side. Its mouth opens to the river, and when the water is high it nearly flows into it. The entrance is an arch in a rock about twenty-five feet high in the centre, eighty feet wide at the base, and extending back from the opening one hundred and eighty feet. The mouth is darkened by several large trees growing before it, which give it a gloomy and solemn appearance. Passengers usually visit it, and have engraved on the sides within the mouth, a great number of names, dates and other inscriptions. Indian superstition and other fabulous stories reported respecting this cave do not merit a repetition.
Further down the river, and within forty-six miles of its mouth, is fort Massac, situated on a high commanding bank, where a Lieutenant's command is stationed. It was originally built by the French. Here the land is rich and level, consisting principally of natural meadow, with some beautiful groves, or copses of large trees. Near the fort, and along the banks of the river there are a number of settlers, who have well cultivated gardens and fields, which are very productive. At a small distance below, is Wilkersonville, situated on a bluff, formerly called Cedar Bluffs, but has very few inhabitants.
On the river Mississippi, the first settlement of any note in the Indiana Territory, is the village Kaskaskia. It is an ancient French town, about ninety miles above the mouth of the Ohio, situated on the Kaskaskia river, at the distance of five miles from the Mississippi. The village contains about one hundred houses, and the inhabitants principally French. In the vicinity of this village the land -is excellent and highly cultivated. The river Kaskaskia is navigable about one hundred miles, and drains an extensive tract of level country. There is a road leading from Saint Vincennes to the Kaskaskia village, nearly in a west direction. This road passes through almost one continued prairie for about two hundred miles, there being only scattered copses of wood, which have the appearance of small islands, in a wide extended bay. These natural meadows are covered with a tall grass, and the sun appears to rise and set in the grass. On this road there are few settlers, and the traveller is obliged, for several nights, to lodge in the grass or copses of wood. In this prairie, large herds of buffaloe, elk, and deer, may be seen grazing nearly the whole of the year.
Cahokia is another small village, sixty miles further up the Mississippi, and inhabited by French people. It is situated on a small stream, about a mile from the river, and contains about eighty houses. The land *here is rich, mostly level, and covered with large timber.
The Illinois, a noble river, enters the Mississippi forty-five miles further up, and twenty-five miles above the mouth of the Missouri. It is four hundred yards wide at its mouth, and is navigable four hundred and fifty miles. Numerous tributary streams fall into it on both sides, some of which are also navigable a considerable distance. The Little Michilimackinac enters the river, from the southward, one hundred and ninety miles from the mouth, and is navigable ninety miles. One of the principal branches of the Illinois takes its rise near the head waters of the Chichago river, which enters into lake Michigan. Between these two rivers, there is a short portage of only two miles, making an easy communication between the Mississippi and the lakes. The navigation is uninterrupted, for vessels of considerable burden, from Lake Michigan to Niagara falls. From Lake Erie, to the Mohawk river, which empties into the Hudson, it is said, all the portages do not exceed twenty-six miles. Thus, by portages of about twenty-eight miles, an inland navigation is opened between New Orleans and New York; a distance computed to be nearly four thousand miles. Perhaps there is not to be found an inland navigation of equal extent, in any part of the world. Another large branch of the Illinois rises near the river Saint Joseph, passing south of Lake Michigan, where a portage may be easily formed. It is called the Theakiki river.
The banks of the Illinois are generally high. The bed of the river being a white marble, or clay, or sand, the waters are remarkably clear. It abounds with beautiful islands, one of which is ten miles long; and adjoining or near to it, are many coal mines, salt ponds, and small lakes. It passes through one lake, two hundred and ten miles from its mouth, which is twenty miles in length, and three or four miles in breadth, called Illinois lake. The river, and waters communicating with it, are replenished with a variety of excellent fish. The large tract of country through which this river and its branches meander, is said not to be exceeded in beauty, levelness, richness, and fertility of soil, by any tract of land, of equal extent, in the United States. From the Illinois to the Wabash, excepting some little distance from the rivers, is almost one continued prairie, or natural meadow, intermixed with groves, or copses of wood, and some swamps and small lakes. These beautiful, and, to the eye of the beholder, unlimited fields, are covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, and other vegetable productions, which afford fattening and plentiful grazing for innumerable herds of buffaloe, elk, and deer. All the variety of forest trees and shrubs, common to the western country, are found in some parts of the Indiana Territory; but different kinds abound more in some situations and soils than in others. There is also a great difference in the* size of the growth of the same kind of trees, in different soils. In the neighbourhood of the Illinois the crab-apple, plumb, and cherry trees grow in great plenty, yielding fruit in abundance. Here the grape vine flourishes admirably, producing large quantities of grapes, of which the inhabitants make a good red wine, for their own consumption. It is said in the year 1769, one hundred and ten hogsheads of well tasted and strong wine were made by the French settlers, from the grapes. The sugar-maple, and black and white mulberry grow in plenty.
The settlers on this river are almost entirely French people, who live principally in small villages. Where the land is cultivated, it yields large crops of almost every article they commit to the ground. It has been found that tobacco, indigo, hemp, and flax, can be raised here to much advantage.
Between the Illinois and the falls of Saint Anthony, a distance of about eight hundred and seventy miles, there are a large number of considerable streams, and some of them navigable rivers, which come from the eastward and discharge their waters into the Mississippi. The following are the largest navigable rivers, and the computed distance from each other, with the distance they are said to be navigable. The first is Rocky river, or Riviere a la Roche, one hundred and sixty miles above the Illinois. This is a large river, but the navigation is said to be impeded by rocks and rapids. The second is Mine river, or Riviere, a la Mine, two hundred and ten miles above Rocky river, and navigable fifty miles. The third is Ouiconsin, one hundred and twenty miles further up, navigable two hundred miles. A bend in this river, near its head waters, passes so near to a bend in Fose river, which empties into Green Bay, a branch of Lake Michigan, that the portage is said to be only one mile and three quarters, forming another easy communication between the Mississippi and the lakes. The fourth, Black river, one hundred and fifty miles further, and navigable one hundred miles. The fifth, is the river Chippeway, sixty-five miles above Black river, and navigable one hundred miles. The sixth, is Sotoux river, only fifteen miles further up, and navigable eighty miles. The mouth of this river is said to be three hundred and eighty yards wide. The seventh, is the Saint Croix, further distant sixty miles, and is said to be navigable one hundred miles. The mouth of this river is two hundred yards. From the Saint Croix to Saint Anthony's falls, is ninety miles, which is in forty-five degrees of north latitude.
North of the Illinois the country gradually becomes hilly, and near to Lake Superior, are mountains of very considerable attitude. It is inhabited by numerous bands of Indians, of different nations; some wandering bands, others live in villages conveniently situated for hunting excursions. It has been said that near some of these large rivers, lead ore has been found in large quantities, and that in some places copper ore has been discovered of a very great degree of purity. But this extensive tract of country has been very little explored. Almost the only white people who have visited it, have been the traders in furs and peltry.
- ↑ In the Ohio Navigator a very accurate description is given of the Rapids with an excellent map of the falls. From this description the account of them here given, is principally taken. To this very valuable work, the writer is indebted for many observations respecting the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, and for much information in regard to the country bordering upon them.