A pilgrimage to my motherland

by Robert Campbell

A Pilgrimage to My Motherland.

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AN

ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY

AMONG

THE EGBAS AND YORUBAS OF CENTRAL AFRICA,

In 1859-60.

BY

ROBERT CAMPBELL,

One of the Commissioners of the Niger Valley Exploring Party; late in charge of the Scientific Department of the Institute for Colored Youth, Philadelphia; and Member of the International Statistical Congress, London.

New-York:

PUBLISHED BY THOMAS HAMILTON, 48 BEEKMAN ST.

PHILADELPHIA:

BY THE AUTHOR, 661 NORTH THIRTEENTH ST.

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1861.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1860, by

ROBERT CAMPBELL,

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the

Southern District of New-York.

DEDICATION.

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To those friends in America and in England who generously contributed to the expense of the expedition, one of the objects of which was to make the observations and obtain the facts recorded in the following pages; but particularly to BENJAMIN COATES, of Philadelphia, whose unremitting efforts contributed in no small degree to the success of the enterprise, and to HENRY CHRISTY, of London, to whom chiefly the friends of Africa and the Negro are indebted for the cooperation of the English people, this little narrative is respectfully dedicated by

THE AUTHOR.

ADVERTISEMENT.

ALTHOUGH it is desired that this little volume should be sold entirely on its own merits, yet the friends of Christian Civilization in Africa are informed, that the profits are intended to aid the author in defraying the expense of removing with his family to Abbeokuta, which place he has adopted as his future home.

PREFACE.

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The intention was to prepare only a small pamphlet, containing those points of general information respecting the Egbas and Yorubas, as persons interested in the objects of my visit to those people would wish to learn; but in spite of efforts to be brief, the work has attained its present dimensions, with the length of which, however, as a book, there is certainly no cause of complaint. The narrative is, as far as possible, confined to personal observations, though this has perhaps deprived the casual reader of some details otherwise interesting. Much error, particularly in reference to Africa, has been propagated in consequence of writers generally not confining the subject of their books to their own observations. In my own case, I presume, the sources of information being equally accessible, that the intelligent reader can obtain for himself, as easily as I can for him, whatever information he desires about the early history of Africa, its ancient races, and the efforts of the Portuguese, British and Dutch to circumnavigate and colonize the continent.

Several items of information are omitted, partly because they are not of general interest, and partly because my worthy colleague and brother, Dr. M. R. Delany, will include them in the Report of our Expedition, the labor of which he has kindly assumed.

After what is written in the context, if I am still asked what I think of Africa for a colored man to live and do well in, I simply answer, that with as good prospects in America as colored men generally, I have determined, with my wife and children, to go to Africa to live, leaving the inquirer to interpret the reply for himself.

R. C.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I.

LIVERPOOL TO LAGOS.

Bathurst—Sierra Leone—Malignant Fever—Cape Palmas—Cape Coast Castle—Acra, English and Dutch, ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

9

CHAPTER II.

ARRIVAL AT LAGOS.

Bad bar—Landing mails under difficulties—Magnificent Spectacle—Dexterous Canoemen—Offering to the Water-demon—Sharks—Mr. Turner—The Consulate—Lieut. Lodder—Disgusting Spectacle—Lagos—Alcoholic Stimulants and Fever—Emigrants—Cowries—King Docemo—Kosoko, ex-king—A Visit to the Palace—Unfortunate Adventure—The Lesson, ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

14

CHAPTER III.

JOURNEY TO ABBEOKUTA.

The Crowthers—River Ogun—Ogboi Creek—Nymphæa—Rhizophora Mangle—Villages in the Swamp—Steam Navigation on the Ogun—Fish-Snares—Current—Rocky Bed—Crossing on Calabashes—"Agayen"—Subterranean Streams—Aro—Orange Cottage, ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

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CHAPTER IV.

ABBEOKUTA.

Introduction to the "Alake"—Royal Attire—Wives, over one hundred—Ogboni Elders—Native Game, Wari—Visit to the Chiefs, ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

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CHAPTER V.

NATIVE AUTHORITIES.

Peculiarity of Government—"Ibashorun" or Prime Minister—Shukenu—"His Highness Ogubonna," Friend of Civilization—"You are of my own Kindred"—Atambala—Age—Mr. Crowther and the Doctors—Order of Succession—Departments of Government—Shodeke, ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

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CHAPTER VI.

MISCELLANEOUS.

African Cities—Forms of "Compounds"—Native Food—Clothing—Industry—Percolator—Blacksmiths—Iron-smelting—Weaving—Farming Implements Indigo—Palm-oil Factories—"Taffi"—Traders—Personal Habits—Cola-nuts —Native Affability—Onoshoko, "Father of the King"—Polygamy—Slavery —African Honor—Symmetry of Form—Calisthenics—Archery—Native Games of Skill—Stray Fact—Wild Bees—An Adventure—Funeral—Processions—Discovery of Abbeokuta, ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

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CHAPTER VII

RELIGION.

Shango exorcised—Existence of Spirits—Ifa—Agugu—Oro—Aspect of a City on Oro-day—Gymnastic Sports—Pugilistic Encounters—Missions, ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

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CHAPTER VIII

JOURNEY TO YORUBA.

Our Caravan—Atadi—Extortion of Carriers—Ilgun—Peter Elba—Open Air Accommodation—Articles left by the roadside for sale—Ijaye—Kumi—Telegraphic Drums—Interview with Chief—"Palaver with the water"—Great Market—The Drivers—Carriers—Value of a Shirt—Departure for Oyo—Fever Again—Visit to King Adelu—Exchange of Presents—Tax collecting—Snake-Charmer—Adeneji—Small Pox—Ogbomishaw—Dr. Delany, Fever still again—Scarcity of Water, ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

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CHAPTER IX

ILOEIN.

Magnificent Conflagration—Grassy Plains and Forests—Freedom of the Country from Beasts and Reptiles; why—Extravagant Welcome—Nasamo the Executioner, and his Dwelling—Wifeless—Royal Present of Food—Prisoners—Interview with the King—Schools—Arabians—Mulatto—Musical In-struments—Banjo—Beggars—Looms—Gambari Market—Escort, ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

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CHAPTER X

RETURN.

"Two Horsemen," and their Adventure—Exchange Horses—What about Vaughn—Progress Arrested—New Route—Voices in the Bush—Village in Ashes—Isehin—A Hunting Party—Dead Man by the Roadside—Ibadan Soldiers, another Adventure—"Enough, Enough, white man, go on!"—A City on a Hill—Berecadu, and its Defenses—Night Travel in Africa—Abbeokuta again—"The Dahomians are Coming"—Deputation—The Doctor is come, and how he did it—Final Departure for the Coast—The Carrier Nuisance once more—Troubles—Heroic Woman—Safe at Lagos—Departure—Kru men—A Slaver, ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

108

CHAPTER XI

CONCLUSION.

Willingness of Natives to receive Settlers—Comparative Healthiness of Coast and Interior—Expense of Voyage—Protection—How to procure Land—Commercial and Agricultural Prospects—Time of Arriving at Lagos—The Bar—Extent of Self-Government—Climate—African Fever and Treatment—Cotton Trade—Domestic Animals—Agricultural Products—Minerals Timber—Water—African Industry—Expense of Labor—Our Treaty—Finis, ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

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