ASTORIA AND THE COLUMBIA RIVER
CHAPTER II.
Astoria and the Columbia River.
On January 2nd, 1899, I left on the steamer Telephone, for Astoria. This was certainly a grand trip, though it was snowing at times and quite cold. After sailing down the Willamette river, past the old City of St. John into the broader waters of the Columbia, a distance of one hundred miles; stopping at St. Helen, Rainier and Mayger on the Oregon side of the river, as well as Kalama and Cathlamet on the Washington side, I arrived at Astoria, the second city of Oregon in population, at 4 p. m., having enjoyed a delightful sail on this inland arm of the sea, which is navigable for the largest ocean vessels during all seasons of the year. I remained at Astoria during the entire winter and summer. The main industry of this seaport town is fishing. Here is the home of the royal chinook salmon and at no other place in the world is the salmon found of such superior quality as at the mouth of the Columbia river, and during the entire fishing season the canneries and cold storage plants are busy preparing salmon to ship to all parts of the globe.
Every evening I could see about two thousand boats starting out with two men in each boat; some come back in the morning with their beauties and some perhaps stay a day or two, while at times some never return, as they become careless getting over the bar in the swift ocean waters, and before they realize their danger their boats would be upset and they would go to the bottom; in spite of all the efforts made by the life-saving crews to save them.
After weighing, the fish are cut up and placed in cans to be boiled, having first removed the large bones. After being boiled, a hole is made in the top of the can allowing the steam to escape, and after cooling, the hole is again sealed up. The cans are then dipped into a preparation for coloring them, which shows that they are perfectly air-tight; they are then wrapped with paper which advertises the quality of fish and the establishment where they were canned. The cans are then packed into cases, ready for the markets.
I have pictures in my possession of salmon weighing seventy-four pounds each, this being the kind that are usually canned, whereas the smaller varieties are packed in the cold storage plants.
I visited Warrington and Flavell, across Youngs Bay, and New Astoria and Fort Stevens, at the mouth of the Columbia river, where is situated the fortifications of the United States Government, which were greatly strengthened during the Spanish-American war. Opposite here are Fort Canby and Fort Columbia.
I used to enjoy the Sunday excursions to Seaside, where hundreds were bathing in the surf. This brings to my mind what happened to me one day, and I will give it to you. The tide was coming in, yet still seemed very quiet. As the waves would go out a little, I followed them to take a picture of Tillamook rock and lighthouse; had just got in a good position with my kodak when in came a large wave which nearly overpowered me. Seemingly I could not move I was so astonished. Mac came running after me, seeing my danger from a distance. I then had to go to the hotel for repairs and to get the sand from my clothing.
The Astorians pay very little attention to the Fourth of July, Thanksgiving, or other legal holidays, but commemorate the close of the fishing season by a three days' regatta, at which are gathered sportsmen from all over the Pacific coast. The young lady who receives the greatest number of votes cast for queen of the occasion is considered highly honored. The three days' celebration which I witnessed were occupied in boat-racing by the fishermen's sail-boats, double sculled row-boats, large sailing yachts and a fine performance by the life-saving crews, swimming contests, high diving and the divers with their diving-suits, and finally the balloon ascension, which was a perfect success, the aeronaut going up about two thousand feet and coming down with the assistance of his parachute. There were also a number of land sports, besides the Grand Ball, presided over by the Queen of the Regatta.
The City of Astoria is situated on the south bank of the Columbia, the river here being about five miles wide. It has an excellent harbor, with important shipping interests, besides sawmills and lumbering industries. Above the city is the government lighthouse at Tongue Point. Across the river are large saw-mills at Knappton, Washington.
On the 26th day of August, I returned by train to Portland, where I resided for the remainder of the year.