Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management/Chapter XXI

by Isabella Beeton

RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK.

 

CHAPTER XXI

 

1074.—BOLOGNA SAUSAGES, IMITATION OF. (Fr.—Saucisses à la Bologna.)

Ingredients.—2 lb. of lean beef, 2 lb. of lean pork, 1 lb. of finely-chopped suet, powdered thyme, mace, pepper, fat bacon cut into strips, ox skins, brine.

Method.—Simmer the meat very gently until tender, then chop it finely, or pass it 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine. Pound it and the suet until smooth, and season highly with pepper, and more sparingly with mace and thyme. Press the mixture into the prepared ox-skins, and in filling them intersperse strips of bacon. Tie the skins in 8 or 9-inch lengths, let them remain in brine for 9 or 10 days (see various recipes for salting), then hang them in the smoke from a peat fire. They may be kept for a considerable time in a cool dry place. Serve cut in thin slices.

Time.—To cure, 8 or 9 days. To smoke, at least 3 weeks. Average Cost, 10d. to 11d. per lb.

1075.—CROQUETS OF PORK. (Fr.—Croquettes de Porc.)

Ingredients.—½ a lb. of finely-chopped cooked lean pork, ½ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, ¼ of a teaspoonful of powdered sage, a pinch of marjoram, ½ an oz. of butter, ¾ of an oz. of flour, ¼ of a pint of strong stock, salt and pepper, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat.

Method.—Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion lightly, then stir in first the flour and afterwards the stock, and boil gently for 10 or 12 minutes, stirring briskly meanwhile. Add the meat, sage, marjoram, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, stir over the fire until well mixed, and turn on to a plate to cool. Form into cork-shaped pieces, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat (See "Croquettes of Beef," also "Notes on Frying," page 443.)

Time.—To fry, 4 to 5 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable in winter.

1076.—FILLET AND FILLETS OF PORK.

Pork is very rarely cut into parts to which the terms fillet or fillets could be applied, small legs being cooked whole, while large ones are cured for hams A fillet would consist of the fleshy part of the leg (see "Fillet [of Mutton] to Dress"), which might be divided into small fillets, or, if preferred, small fillets could be cut from the loin or best part of the neck, just as noisettes of mutton are cut. Any directions given for cooking pork chops and tenderloins would be equally applicable to these.

1077.—GALANTINE OF PORK. (Fr.—Galantine de Porc.)

Ingredients.—A belly of young pork, either salted or fresh, but preferably the former, pickled gherkins, pepper, stock, or water with the addition of 2 onions, 1 carrot, ¼ of a turnip, a bouquet-garni (thyme, parsley, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, glaze.

Method.—Lay the meat, skin side downwards on the table, season well with pepper, and cover with thin slices of gherkin. Roll up as tightly as possible, tie with strong twine, and fasten securely in a cloth. Place the roll in a stewpan containing sufficient hot stock, or hot water and vegetables, to just cover it, and cook gently from 2½ to 3 hours. Press between 2 dishes until cold, then remove the cloth, brush over with glaze, and serve garnished with parsley.

Time.—To cook, from 3½ to 4 hours. Average Cost, 8d. per lb. Seasonable in the winter.

1078.—GRISKIN OR SPINE OF PORK.

Ingredients.—Pork, salt and pepper, apple sauce. No. 316.

Method.—Baking is a cookery process peculiarly adapted to pork, which needs to be thoroughly done without drying the outside. Place the meat in a baking-tin containing some hot pork or bacon fat, baste well, and bake gently until thoroughly cooked, keeping the meat well basted. Make the gravy from the sediment in the tin (see "Gravies"), and serve with apple sauce. If liked, a little finely-powdered sage and a small pinch of marjoram may be sprinkled on the meat ½ an hour before serving.

Time.—Allow 20 minutes to the lb. Average Cost, 9d. to 10d. per lb.

1079.—LITTLE RAISED PORK PIES. (Fr—Petits Pâtés de Porc.)

Ingredients.—2 lb. of lean pork, 1 lb. of household flour, 8 ozs. of lard, ½ a teaspoonful of powdered sage, cayenne, pepper and salt, ¼ a pint of water, 1 small onion.

Method.—Prepare the stock, meat and paste as directed in the recipe for "Pork Pie." Divide the paste into small pieces, raise in a round or oval form, and fill with meat. Sprinkle lightly with sage, moisten with stock, and put on the covers. Bake in a moderately hot oven for about 1 hour, then fill up with stock, and serve either hot or cold.

Time.—To bake, about 1½ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d.

1080.—LOIN OF PORK, BAKED. (Fr.—Longe de Porc.)

Ingredients.—3 or 4 lb. loin of pork, 18 potatoes, 8 apples, 6 onions, all peeled and quartered, salad oil, gravy (see "Gravies").

Method.—Score the skin in narrow lines, and brush it over with salad oil. Bake in a moderately hot oven for 40 minutes, then put the potatoes, apples and onions into the tin containing the meat, and continue to cook gently from 1¼ to 1½ hours longer. When ready, arrange the vegetables and apples on a hot dish, place the meat in the centre, and serve the gravy separately.

Time.—From 2 to 2½ hours. Average Cost, 9d. to 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable during the winter months.

1081.—PIG'S CHEEK.

Ingredients.—A pig's cheek, brown breadcrumbs.

Method.—If the cheek has been cured and dried, soak it for 5 or 6 hours; if freshly pickled, simply wash it in 2 or 3 waters. Cover with warm water, bring to the boil, and simmer gently for 2½ hours. Strip off the skin, cover rather thickly with lightly-browned breadcrumbs, and bake in the oven for ½ an hour. Serve either hot or cold.

Time.—To cook, 3 hours. Average Cost, 8d. per lb. Seasonable in winter.

1082.—PIG'S CHEEK, TO PICKLE.

Ingredients.—2 pig's cheeks. For the pickle: 4 ozs. of common salt 4 ozs. of moist sugar, 1 oz. of saltpetre, ½ an oz. of ground pepper.

Method.—Remove the brains and snout, and chop off the upper bone, to make the cheeks a good shape. Wash well, sprinkle thickly with salt, let them lie for 24 hours, then wash and drain well. Mix the above ingredients together, rub them well into the cheeks, and turn and rub them daily for 4 weeks. Hang in a dry cool place until required.

Time.—29 days. Average Cost, 7d. to 8d. per lb.

1083.—PIG'S EARS. (Fr.—Oreilles de Porc.)

Ingredients.—4 pig's ears, 4 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped veal, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped suet, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ½ a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, 1 egg, salt and pepper, ½ a pint of brown sauce (see "Sauces"), ¼ of a pint of stock, frying-fat.

Method.—Soak the ears for 5 or 6 hours, then cover with stock or water, and simmer gently for 1½ hours. Mix the breadcrumbs, veal, suet, parsley, anchovy-essence, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper together, and slightly moisten with beaten egg. Raise the skin of the upper side of the ear, press the forcemeat lightly in, and secure the opening. Fry in hot fat until lightly browned, then drain off the fat, add the stock, cover closely, and cook either on the stove or in the oven for ½ an hour. Drain well, and serve with the sauce poured over them.

Time.—About 2 hours. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable in winter.

1084.—PIG'S EARS WITH TARTARE SAUCE. (Fr.—Oreilles de Cochon, Sauce Tartare.)

Ingredients.—Pig's ears pickled, frying-batter (see No. 213), Tartare sauce (see "Sauces"), butter or frying-fat, salad-oil, finely-chopped shallot and parsley, salt and pepper.

Method.—Boil the ears until tender, let them cool, then sprinkle them lightly with shallot and parsley, and liberally with pepper. Pour over them 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, let them remain for 1 hour, turning 2 or 3 times, and basting frequently. Drain well, dip them into the batter, and fry in hot butter or fat until crisp and brown. Serve the sauce separately.

Time.—To fry, 4 or 5 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain, the ears bring seldom sold separately.

1085.—PIG'S FEET AND EARS, FRICASSÉED. (Fr.—Fricassée de Pieds de Porc.)

Ingredients.—4 pig's feet, 2 pig's ears, a slice of onion, a small blade of mace, a thin strip of lemon-rind, white stock or milk. For the sauce: 2 ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, ¾ of a pint of white stock, salt and pepper.

Method.—Wash the feet and ears, cover them with white stock or milk, add the onion, mace, lemon-rind and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until tender, then cut the feet into neat pieces, and the ears into strips. Heat the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook slowly for 5 or 6 minutes, then add the stock or liquor in which the feet and ears were cooked. Boil up, season to taste, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then put in the prepared feet and ears, and when thoroughly hot, serve.

Time.—About 2½ hours. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

1086.—PIG'S FEET AND EARS IN JELLY. (Fr.—Pieds de Pore en Aspic.)

Ingredients.—4 pig's feet, 2 pig's ears, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ½ a dessertspoonful of finely-chopped fresh sage, salt and pepper.

Method.—Thoroughly cleanse the feet and ears, cover them with cold water, and simmer gently until the bones can be easily withdrawn. Cut the meat into dice, replace it in the liquor, add the parsley, sage, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then turn into a mould or basin, and put aside until cold.

Time.—About 3 hours. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized mould. Seasonable in winter.

1087.—PIG'S FRY.

Ingredients.—A pig's fry, which consists of the heart, lights, liver and sweetbread, frying-fat, flour, salt and pepper, sage.

Method.—Wash the fry well, cover it with water, add a little salt, and cook gently for ½ an hour. Drain and dry well, cut into thin slices, and coat them lightly with flour seasoned with salt, pepper and a little sage. Fry in hot fat until nicely browned, then remove and keep hot. Sprinkle a little flour on the bottom of the frying-pan, let it brown, then pour in a little boiling water, and add seasoning to taste. Boil up, strain, and serve round the fry, or separately.

Time.—From 1 to 1¼ hours. Average Cost, 6d. to 7d. per lb. Allow 1 lb. for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable in winter.

1088.—PIG'S FRY, BAKED WITH HERBS.

Ingredients.—A pig's fry, potatoes, peeled and sliced, 2 or 3 onions sliced, powdered sage, salt and pepper, flour.

Method.—Wash and dry the fry, and cut it into thin slices. Place a layer at the bottom of a greased piedish, add a sprinkling of sage, salt and pepper, dredge liberally with flour, and cover first with slices of onion, and afterwards with potato. Repeat until all the materials are used, letting potatoes form the last layer. Three-quarters fill the dish with boiling water, cover with a greased paper, and bake gently from 2¼ to 2½ hours. About ½ an hour before serving remove the paper, to allow the potatoes to brown.

Time.—To bake, from 2¼ to 2½ hours. Average Cost, fry, from 6d. to 7d. per lb. Allow 1 lb. of fry and 2 lb. of potatoes for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable in winter.

1089.—PIG'S HEAD, BOILED. (Fr.—Tête de Porc bouillie.)

Ingredients.—A pig's head, 1 lb. of common salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, pease pudding (see No. 1098.)

Method.—Scald and cleanse the head thoroughly, removing the hair, eyes, snout and brains. Soak in strong salt and water for 24 hours changing the water 2 or 3 times, then drain and dry well. Mix the salt and saltpetre together, rub it well into every part of the head, and repeat this process daily for 5 or 6 days. Drain the head from the brine, place it in a stewpan containing sufficient warm water to cover it, bring to the boil, and skim well. Simmer gently for 3½ hours, then serve with the pease pudding.

Time.—To cook, about 3½ hours. Average Cost, 7d. to 8d. per lb. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable in winter.

1090.—PIG'S HEAD, COLLARED. (Fr.—Tête de Porc.)

Ingredients.—A pig's head, 1 lb. of common salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, cayenne, salt and pepper.

Method.—Prepare the head as directed in the preceding recipe, boil it gently for 2 hours, then drain from the liquor and remove the bones, flatten the head as much as possible, sprinkle it liberally with pepper and cayenne, and roll up tightly. Put the roll into a cloth, and bind securely. Replace it in the stewpan, boil gently for 2 hours longer, press until cold, and use as required.

Time.—About 4 hours. Average Cost, 7d. to 8d. per lb. Seasonable in winter.

1091.—PIG'S KIDNEYS, BROILED. (Fr.—Rôgnons de Porc grillés.)

Ingredients.—Pig's kidneys, salt and pepper, powdered sage, salad-oil, maître d'Hôtel butter, or parsley butter.

Method.—Split the kidneys lengthwise, remove the skin, and pass a skewer through them to keep them flat. Brush over with salad-oil, sprinkle with sage, salt and pepper, and broil over a clear fire, cooking the cut side first. Place a small pat of maître d'hôtel butter in the centre of each half, and serve as hot as possible.

Time.—5 to 7 minutes, according to size. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d. each.

1092.—PIG'S KIDNEYS, FRIED. (Fr.—Rôgnons de Porc Frits.)

Ingredients.—2 pig's kidneys, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 shallots or 1 small onion finely-chopped, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, flour, salt and pepper, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.

Method.—Remove the skins, and cut the kidneys across into rather thin slices. Heat the butter in a sauté-pan, fry the shallots until lightly browned, then put in the kidney, and add the parsley and a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Toss over the fire for 3 or 4 minutes, then turn on to a hot dish. Sprinkle a little flour on the bottom of the pan, let it brown, then add a little boiling stock or water and seasoning to taste. Boil up, pour over or round the kidney, and serve.

Time.—To fry, 3 or 4 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d. each.

1093.—PIG'S PETTITOES, FRIED. (Fr.—Pieds de Porc frits.)

Ingredients.—4 or 8 sucking pigs' feet, frying-batter (see No. 213), stock, frying-fat, parsley.

Method.—Wash the pettitoes thoroughly, then cover them with stock or water, bring to the boil, and simmer gently for about ½ an hour. Split them open, dip them into the batter, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Drain, and serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley.

Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, uncertain, being seldom sold separately.

1094.—PIG'S PETTITOES, STEWED. (Fr.—Pieds de Porc en ragoût.)

Ingredients.—8 sucking-pigs' feet, the heart and liver of the pig, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 6 peppercorns, a small blade of mace, salt and pepper, stock.

Method.—Wash the liver, heart and pettitoes, cover with stock, add the peppercorns and mace, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Take out the heart and liver and chop them finely, the pettitoes being meanwhile allowed to cook slowly until quite tender. Heat the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook gently for 5 minutes, then strain and add ½ a pint of stock. Stir until boiling, season to taste, put in the mince and pettitoes, make thoroughly hot, and stir in the cream. Serve the mince on a hot dish with the feet halved and laid on the top of it.

Time.—About 45 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain, being seldom sold separately. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable in winter.

1095.—PIG'S TONGUES. (Fr.—Langues de Porc.)

Ingredients.—8 or 9 pigs' tongues. For the pickle: 4 ozs. of common salt, 2 ozs. of bay salt, 1 oz. of moist sugar, ½ an oz. of saltpetre.

Method.—Trim the roots of the tongues, rub them well with salt, and let them lie for 24 hours. Mix the above ingredients together, rub the mixture well into the tongues, and repeat this process daily for 9 or 10 days. When ready, the tongues should be well washed, and cooked according to directions given for dressing sheep's tongues.

Time.—To pickle, 9 or 10 days. Average Cost, uncertain, being seldom sold separately.

1096.—PORK, BAKED. (Fr.—Porc rôti au Four.)

Ingredients.—Leg or loin of pork, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 small turnip, 2 strips of celery, 2 doz. button onions, 1 teaspoonful of mixed herbs, 1 oz. of butter, 2 or 3 ozs. of dripping, ½ a pint of gravy, apple sauce (see Sauces), salt and pepper.

Method.—Score the pork in narrow lines. Slice all the vegetables except the button onions, place them in a baking-tin, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add the herbs and dripping. Lay the meat on the top, and cook in a moderate oven, basting frequently (see "Notes on Baking Meat," p. 428). ½ an hour before serving, peel the small onions, and fry them brown in hot butter. Serve the meat on a hot dish, garnish with the onions, and send the gravy to table in a sauce-boat. If necessary, the gravy can be made from the sediment in the meat tin.

Time.—Allow 20 minutes to each lb. Average Cost, 9d. to 10d. per lb. Seasonable in the winter.

1097.—PORK AND BEANS. (Fr.—Porc Salé aux Haricots blanc.)

Ingredients.—A shoulder of young pork pickled, 1 onion, 1 carrot, ¼ of a turnip, 10 peppercorns, Windsor beans, parsley sauce (see No. 206.)

Method.—Put the pork into a stewpan containing sufficient warm water to cover it, bring to the boil, add the vegetables and peppercorns, and boil gently for about 2 hours. Half an hour before the pork will be ready throw the beans into salted boiling water, boil gently from 25 to 30 minutes, then drain well, and pour over them the parsley sauce. Server the pork and beans on separate dishes.

Time.—From 2 to 2½ hours, according to size. Average Cost, 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable in the winter.

1098.—PORK, BOILED, AND PEASE PUDDING.

Ingredients.—Leg or other joint of salted or pickled pork, 1 good cabbage, 6 parsnips, 1 onion, 1 carrot, ½ a turnip, 1 strip of celery, 12 peppercorns. For the pudding: 1 quart of split peas, 1 oz. of butter, 2 yolks of eggs, salt and pepper.

Method.—Soak the peas for 12 hours. Place the pork in a boiling pot, cover it with warm water, unless very salt, in which case use cold water (see "Notes on Boiling Meat," p. 429). Bring to the boil, skim well, boil for 10 minutes, add the onion, carrot, turnip and celery, all cut into thick slices, put in the peppercorns, and simmer gently until done. Boil the parsnips and cabbage separately; divide the former lengthwise into 4 pieces, and press the latter well, season it with pepper, and cut it into small squares. Serve the pork in a hot dish, garnished with the parsnips and cabbage. The liquor in which pork is cooked may be converted into good peasoup.

There are two methods of making the pease pudding. By the first method, the peas are drained from the water in which they were soaked, tied in a cloth, and cooked for about 1½ hours in the boiling-pot with the pork. They are then rubbed through a fine sieve, mixed with the butter and yolks of eggs, seasoned with salt and pepper, replaced in the cloth, and boiled with the pork for about 40 minutes longer. The second method is probably the better one. After being drained from the water in which they were soaked, the peas are placed, with a dessertspoonful of salt, in a stewpan, which they about half fill, and covered with cold water, which must be replaced as it boils away. Cook the peas gently for about 2 hours, or till they are quite soft, then rub them through a fine sieve, add the butter, yolks of eggs, and season to taste. Press the purée into a well-buttered mould or basin, and either steam or bake for about 40 minutes.

Time.—Allow 25 minutes to each lb. of pork. Average Cost, the pork 9d. per lb., the pudding 9d.

1099.—PORK, LEG OF, ROASTED. (Fr.—Gigot de Porc rôti.)

Ingredients.—A leg of pork, onion forcemeat, No. 404, salad-oil ½ a pint of gravy, dripping for basting, apple sauce (see No 316).

Method.—Remove the bones down to the knuckle bone, break them into smaller pieces, and simmer them for gravy. Make the forcemeat as directed, press it lightly inside the leg, and secure the opening. Score the skin in narrow strips, brush over with salad-oil, and either roast it before a clear fire, or bake it in a moderate oven (see "Notes on Roasting," p. 428). Serve the gravy and apple sauce in sauce-boats.

Time.—Allow 25 minutes to each lb. of meat. Average Cost, 9d. per lb.

1100.—PORK CHEESE.

Ingredients.—1 lb. of cold roast pork, 1 dessertspoonful of

BACON AND HAM.

 

 

Side of Bacon. 1. Forelock. 2. Collar. 3. Streaky. 4. Prime Back. 5. Small Back. 6. Flank. 7. Long Back. 8. Gammon. 9. Corner. 10. York Ham. 11. Side of Bacon. 12. Mild Cured Ham.

chopped parsley, ¼ of a teaspoonful of powdered sage, ¼ of a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, ½ a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, ¼ of a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, ½ a pint of gravy or stock, sufficiently strong to form a jelly when cold.

Method.—Cut the meat into dice, using more or less of the fat, according to taste. Add to it the parsley, sage, herbs, lemon-rind, nutmeg, and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper, and mix well together. Press tightly into a mould, fill up with gravy, and bake about 1¼ hours in a moderate oven. When cold, turn out of the mould and garnish with parsley.

Time.—About 1½ hours. Average Cost, 1s. 3d. in addition to the stock. Sufficient for 5 persons.

English Mode of Hunting and Indian Pig-Sticking.—Wild boar hunting is a sport of great antiquity, affording the highest interest and excitement. The kings of Assyria are depicted on the sculptured tablets of the Palace of Nineveh engaged in this royal pastime. The Greeks were passionately attached to this sport, and although the Romans do not appear to have been addicted to hunting, wild boar fights formed part of their gladiatorial shows in the amphitheatre. In France, Britain and Germany, from early times, the boar hunt was a favourite pastime of royalty and the nobility. The hunter was armed only with a boar-spear, about four feet in length, the ash staff protected with plates of steel, and terminating in a long narrow, and very sharp blade, and a hunting-knife or hanger. Thus equipped the hunter encountered his foe face to face, as the boar, with erect tail depressed head, and flaming eyes, charged the hunter with his tusks. But, expert as the hunter might be, the boar would sometimes seize the spear in his formidable teeth and crush it like a reed, or, coming full tilt against his assailant, by his momentum and weight hurl him to the ground, and with his sharp tusks rip up with a terrible gash the leg or side of the hunter, before the latter had time to draw and use his knife. At other times the boar would suddenly swerve from his charge, and doubling on his opponent, attack him in the rear. From his speed, great weight, and savage temper, the wild boar is always a dangerous antagonist, and great courage, coolness and agility are requisite on the part of the hunter. Boar hunting has been for some centuries obsolete in Britain, but is still carried on in the extensive forests of Germany and Austria. The Continental sportsman rides to the chase in a cavalcade with music and boar-dogs. The boar-dog is a small hound or mastiff, and is trained to attack the boar, harassing him until he is wearied out, when the huntsman rides up and despatches the boar with his lance. In India, especially in Bengal, the sport is engaged in by English officers and other European sportsmen, and is of a very exciting character, as the boar which inhabits the cane-brakes and jungles is a formidable foe. The hunters mounted on small, active horses, and armed only with long lances, ride at early daybreak to the skirts of the jungle, and having sent in their attendants to beat the cover, wait until their tusked antagonist comes crashing from among the canes, when chase is immediately given, and he is overtaken and transfixed with the lance. The boar, however, frequently turns to bay, with the result that the hunters and their horses are dangerously wounded.

1101.—PORK CUTLETS OR CHOPS. (Fr.—Côtelettes de Porc.)

Ingredients.—6 or 7 small lean chops, 1½ ozs. of butter. 1 large onion cut into dice, 2 sheets of gelatine, a few drops of liquid caramel, salt and pepper, tomato No. 281 or apple sauce No. 316.

Method.—Trim the chops into a good shape, and remove the greater part of the fat. Put any bones, lean trimmings, and the onion into a stewpan with barely sufficient water to cover them, and boil gently for at least 1 hour. Heat the butter in a sauté- or frying pan, and fry the chops slowly, to cook them thoroughly. In the meantime, strain the gravy, skim off the fat, rub the onion through a fine sieve, replace in the stewpan with the gelatine, which is intended to give it consistency, but when convenient may be replaced with glaze, which improves the flavour. Season to taste, and brighten the colour by adding a few drops of liquid caramel. Arrange the cutlets in a close circle on a potato border, pour the sauce (which must be thick enough to coat the cutlets) over them, and serve the tomato or apple sauce separately.

Time.—To fry the chops, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

1102.—PORK CUTLETS, GRILLED. (Fr.—Côtelettes de Porc grillées aux Cornichons.)

Ingredients.—7 or 8 lean cutlets cut from the best end of the neck, 2½ ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, ½ a pint of gravy or stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped gherkins, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper.

Method.—Trim off nearly all the fat, and make the cutlets a good uniform shape. Season both sides of them with salt and pepper, dip them in warm butter, coat carefully with breadcrumbs, and grill over a clear fire for 20 minutes, turning them 3 or 4 times. Pour the remainder of the butter into a small stewpan, add the flour, stir over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes, put in the gravy and vinegar, boil up, season to taste, and add the gherkins. Arrange the cutlets in a close circle on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and serve.

Time.—20 minutes, to grill the cutlets. Average Cost, 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

1103.—PORK CUTLETS WITH ROBERT SAUCE. (Fr.—Côtelettes de Porc à la Robert.)

Ingredients.—8 or 9 cutlets from the best end of the neck, ½ a pint of Robert sauce (see No. 272). For the marinade or brine: 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, ½ teaspoonful of vinegar, ½ a teaspoonful of powdered sage, salt and pepper.

Method.—Trim the cutlets neatly, leaving about ½ an inch of fat round each one. Place them on a dish, pour over the marinade, and let them remain in it for 1 hour, turning them frequently. Drain well, and broil over a clear fire for about 20 minutes. Or, if preferred, fry the cutlets in a little hot butter, in a sauté-pan. Arrange them in a close circle on a hot dish, pour the Robert sauce round, and serve.

Time.—To cook, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

1104.—PORK CUTLETS WITH SOUBISE SAUCE. (Fr.—Côtelettes de Porc à la Soubise.)

Ingredients.—8 or 9 cutlets from the best end of the neck, ½ a pint of thick Soubise sauce, ⅓ of a pint of demi-glace sauce (see No. 242), marinade as in preceding recipe, salt and pepper.

Method.—Prepare and marinade the cutlets as directed in the preceding recipe, and either grill them from 15 to 18 minutes over a clear fire, or fry them for the same length of time in hot butter, in a sauté- or frying-pan. Dish them in a circle, serve the Soubise sauce in the centre, and pour the demi-glace sauce round the base of the dish.

Time.—To fry or grill, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

1105.—PORK CUTLETS, OR CHOPS. (Fr.—Côtelettes de Porc grillées aux Tomates.)

Ingredients.—2½ lb. of loin or neck of pork, ½ a pint of tomato sauce (see No. 281), salad-oil or oiled butter, salt and pepper.

Method.—Remove the greater part of the fat, divide the meat into cutlets, and trim them into a good shape. Brush over with salad-oil or butter, sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper, and grill the cutlets over a clear fire for about 15 minutes, turning them 3 or 4 times. Arrange neatly on a hot dish, pour the hot sauce round, and serve.

Time.—To grill the cutlets, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

1106.—PORK CUTLETS, OR CHOPS. (Fr.—Côtelettes de Porc Panées.)

Ingredients.—2½ lb. of loin or neck of pork, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of powdered sage, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, tomato sauce No 281 or piquante sauce 265.

Method.—Remove nearly all the fat from the cutlets, and trim them into shape. Beat the egg, add to it the sage and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper, dip each cutlet in the mixture, and coat carefully with breadcrumbs. Heat the butter in a sauté-pan and fry the cutlets gently for about 20 minutes, turning them frequently. Arrange on a border of mashed potato, pour the sauce round, and serve.

Time.—About 20 minutes to cook the cutlets. Average Cost, 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

1107.—PORK CUTLETS, HASH OF. (Fr.—Hachis de Porc.)

Ingredients.—The remains of cold loin of pork; to 6 or 7 cutlets allow 1 medium-sized Spanish onion coarsely-chopped, 1 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, ⅓ of a pint of good gravy, salt and pepper.

Method.—Divide the loin into neat cutlets, and trim away the greater part of fat. Melt the butter in a sauté- or frying pan, put in the cutlets, fry them until both sides are lightly browned, then remove and keep hot. Add the onions to the butter in the pan, fry until they acquire a good brown colour, sprinkle in the flour, season with salt and pepper, and cook for a few minutes longer to lightly brown the flour. Now add the stock, vinegar, and mustard, boil up and pour the mixture over the cutlets, which must be previously arranged in a close circle on a hot dish.

Time.—About 5 minutes, to fry the cutlets. Average Cost, 1s. 6d. to 1s. 9d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

1108.—PORK, HASHED. (Fr.—Ragoût de Porc.)

Ingredients.—1 lb. of either cold roast or boiled pork, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of Worcester sauce, 1 dessertspoonful of ketchup, 1 small teaspoonful of made mustard, ½ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, cayenne, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cut the meat into small slices, and sprinkle them with salt and a very little cayenne. Put the butter, Worcester sauce, ketchup, lemon-juice and mustard into a stewpan, and, when quite hot, add the slices of meat, and allow them to remain for 15 or 20 minutes, to become thoroughly impregnated with the flavour of the sauce. Shake the stewpan, or stir the contents occasionally, but on no account allow the sauce to boil.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

1109.—PORK, HASHED. (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—1 lb. of cold roast pork, ½ a pint of gravy or stock, 1 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, ¼ of a saltspoonful of salt, 2 cloves, salt and pepper, 2 onions.

Method.—Cut the meat into small slices, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and cut the onions into thin slices. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion until lightly browned, sprinkle in the flour, stir and cook these over the fire for about 5 minutes, then add the stock, vinegar, cloves, mace, and necessary seasoning, and stir until boiling. Simmer for 10 minutes to thoroughly cook the flour, then draw the stewpan to the side of the stove, put in the slices of meat, cover closely, and let them remain for about ½ an hour. Shake the stewpan occasionally or stir the contents, which must be kept hot but not allowed to boil. Arrange the slices of meat neatly on a hot dish, and strain the sauce over them. The dish may be garnished with sippets of toast, or, if preferred, the hash may be served with a border of mashed potato.

Time.—Altogether, about 45 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 5d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

1110.—PORK KIDNEY, FRITTERS OF. (Fr.—Fritots de Rognôns.)

Ingredients.—2 pig's kidneys, pig's caul, ⅓ of a pint of brown sauce, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 finely-chopped shallot, ½ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 oz. of butter, frying-fat. For the batter: 2 ozs. of flour, ½ a gill of tepid water, 1 tablespoonful of salad-oil or warm butter, the white of 1 egg, 1 saltspoonful of salt.

Method.—Remove the skins and cores, and cut the kidneys into dice. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the shallot slightly, add the parsley and kidneys, cook gently for 5 minutes, then drain away the butter, and, if preferred, use it instead of salad-oil for the batter. Make the brown sauce as directed, No. 233, cool slightly, then pour it on to the yolks of eggs, stirring all the time. Have this sauce ready to add to the kidneys, pour it over them, season to taste, stir by the side of the fire until the yolks thicken, then turn on to a plate to cool. Meanwhile, wash the caul in salt and water, dry well, and cut into 3-inch squares. Make a smooth batter of the flour, water, salt, and salad-oil or butter, then add the white of egg stiffly whipped. When the mixture is cold divide it into small portions, enclose them in the pieces of caul, dip them into the batter, and fry until brown in hot fat.

Time.—1½ hours. Average Cost, 1s. 6d. to 1s. 9d. Sufficient for 4 persons.

Note.—For other methods of cooking kidney, see recipes for veal, beef and lamb.

1111.—PORK, LOIN OF, GERMAN STYLE. (Fr.—Longe de Porc à l'Allemande.)

Ingredients.—A loin of pork, ½ a pint of malt vinegar, 1 large Spanish onion sliced, 10 fresh sage leaves, 10 juniper berries, 24 peppercorns, 6 cloves, 1 tablespoonful of salt, with the addition of a little thyme, basil, or other herbs preferred.

Method.—Remove the skin and any superfluous fat, and place the meat in deep earthenware dish. Add all the ingredients enumerated above, and let the meat remain in the marinade 4 or 5 days, turning and basing it daily. When ready, put both meat and marinade into an earthenware baking-dish, add ½ a pint of boiling water, and cook very gently in the oven from 2½ to 3 hours, basting frequently. Strain the gravy, and serve a little poured over the meat, and the remainder separately.

Time.—To cook, from 2½ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable in the winter.

1112.—PORK, LOIN OF, STUFFED. (Fr.—Longe de Porc Farcie.)

Ingredients.—A loin of pork, onion stuffing, No. 404, gravy (see "Gravies"), apple sauce, No. 316.

Method.—Score the skin in narrow lines, and make an opening for the stuffing by separating the meat from the bone on the inner side.

After putting in the stuffing secure the opening, wrap the loin in a greased paper, and roast before a clear fire, or in a moderately hot oven for about 2 hours. Baste frequently, and ½ an hour before serving remove the paper to allow the crackling to brown. Serve the gravy and apple sauce separately.

Time.—About 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable in the winter.

Note.—The sage and onion stuffing may be baked and served separately or altogether omitted.

1113.— PORK, LOIN OF, SAVOURY. (Fr.—Longe de Porc, Savoureux.)

Ingredients.—3 or 4 lb. of loin of pork, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped onion, ½ a teaspoonful of powdered sage, ½ a teaspoonful of salt, 1 saltspoonful of dry mustard, ½ a saltspoonful of pepper. Apple sauce, brown gravy.

Method.—Score the pork in narrow lines, mix the onion, sage, salt, mustard and pepper together, and rub the mixture well into the meat. Wrap the joint in well-greased paper, and bake in front of a clear fire for about 2 hours, basting frequently. Half an hour before serving remove the paper, in order that the crackling may become crisp and brown. Serve the apple sauce and gravy separately.

Time.—About 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable in the winter.

1114.—PORK, MINCED.

Ingredients.—1 lb. of cold roast pork, 2 onions finely-chopped, 2 apples coarsely-chopped, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, ⅓ of a pint of stock, dry mustard, salt and pepper.

Method.—Cut the meat into very small dice, and, unless gravy or good stock is at hand, boil the bones and trimmings for at least 1 hour, then strain and boil rapidly until reduced to ¾ of a pint. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion until lightly browned, then add the apple, and fry until tender, but not broken. Sprinkle in the flour and a good pinch of mustard, stir and cook gently for 3 or 4 minutes, then add the stock, and stir until boiling. Season to taste, boil gently for 5 minutes, then put in the meat, add the lemon-juice, and allow the stewpan to stand for about ½ an hour where the contents will remain just below simmering point. Serve in a border of rice, or mashed potato, or garnished with sippets of toasted bread.

Time.—To re-heat the meat, about ½ an hour. Average Cost, 1s. 6d. to 1s. 8d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable in winter.

1115.—PORK MOULD.

Ingredients.—1 lb. of cold roast pork, 2 tablespoonfuls of mashed potato, 1 teaspoonful of parboiled and finely-chopped onion, ¼ of a pint of sour cream or milk (about), salt and pepper, brown breadcrumbs, ¼ a pint of gravy.

Method.—Remove the skin and greater part of the fat from the meat, chop it finely, and add to it the onion. Season highly with salt and pepper, and work in sufficient sour cream or milk to bind the mixture together. Coat a well-buttered mould or pie-dish thickly with brown breadcrumbs, put in the mixture, and bake for about ¾ of an hour in a moderate oven. The mixture may also be formed into small cakes, coated with egg and breadcrumbs, and fried. The gravy may be made from the bones and trimmings of the meat, and should be served separately.

Time.—To cook, about ¾ of an hour. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.

1116.—PORK PIE.

Ingredients.—1½ lb. of lean pork, 1 lb. of household flour, 6 ozs. of lard, 1 small onion, ¼ of a pint of water, cayenne, pepper and salt.

Method.—Cut the meat into dice, and season it well with salt and pepper. Place the bones in a stewpan, add the onion, salt and pepper, cover with cold water, and simmer for at least 2 hours to extract the gelatine, in order that the gravy, when cold, may be a firm jelly. Put the flour into a large basin, and add to it a good pinch of salt. Boil the lard and water together for 5 minutes, then add it to the flour, stirring it thoroughly until cool enough to be kneaded. Knead until smooth, cover with a cloth, and let the basin stand near the fire for about ½ an hour. Throughout the whole process the paste must be kept warm, otherwise moulding may be extremely difficult; but overheating must also be avoided, for when the paste is too soft it is unable to support its own weight. At the end of this time, re-knead the paste, put aside about ¼ for the lid, and raise the remainder into a round, or oval form, as may be preferred. If an inexperienced worker finds any difficulty in raising the pie by hand alone, a small jar may be placed in the centre of the paste, and the paste moulded over it. When the lower part of the pie has been raised to the necessary shape and thinness, subsequent work may be made much easier by putting in some of the meat, and pressing it firmly down to support the lower part of the pie. Before adding the lid, moisten the meat with 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of the prepared seasoned gravy; the remainder is re-heated, and added after the pie is baked and still hot. Three or four folds of greased paper should be pinned round the pie to preserve its shape, and prevent it becoming too brown. The pie should be baked for at least 2 hours in a moderate oven, and its appearance is greatly improved by brushing it over with yolk of egg when about ¾ baked. Slices of hard boiled egg are often added with the meat.

Time.—To bake, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 1s. 6d. to 1s. 8d. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized pie.

1117.—POTTED HAM.

Ingredients.—To 2 lb. of lean ham allow ½ a lb. of fat, ¼ of a teaspoonful of ground mace, ¼ of a teaspoonful of nutmeg, ¼ of a teaspoonful of pepper, ⅛ of a teaspoonful of cayenne, clarified butter.

Method.—Pass the ham 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine, or chop it finely, pound it well in a mortar with the seasoning, and rub it through a fine sieve. Put it into a buttered pie-dish, cover with a buttered paper, and bake in a moderate oven for about ¾ of an hour. When done, press into small pots, and as soon as it is quite cold cover with clarified butter.

Time.—To bake, about ¾ of an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 9d.

Importance of the Boar's Head.—In ancient times the boar's head formed the most important dish, and on Christmas Day was invariably the first placed upon the table, its entrance into the hall being preceded by a body of servitors, a flourish of trumpets, and other marks of distinction. The dish itself was borne by the individual next in rank to the lord of the feast. The custom of serving a boar's head on a silver platter on Christmas Day is still observed at some colleges and Inns of Court. So highly was the grizzly boar's head regarded in the Middle Ages that it passed into the cognizance of some of the noblest families in the realm; thus it was not only the crest of the Nevilles and Warwicks with their collateral houses, but it was the cognizance of Richard III. It was also a favourite sign for taverns. The Boar's Head which formerly stood in Eastcheap will be familiar to every reader of Shakespeare as the resort of the Prince of Wales, Poins, and his companions, and the residence of Falstaff, and his knaves Bardolph, Pistol and Nym. Its sign of the boar's head was carved in stone over the entrance; a smaller one, fashioned in wood, was placed on each side of the doorway.

Many traditions and deeds of savage vengeance are recorded in connexion with this grim trophy of the chase in all parts of Europe.

1118.—SAUSAGES, TO BOIL.

Ingredients.—Sausages.

Method.—Prick the sausages with a fork, throw them into boiling water, and cook gently for 15 minutes. Serve on buttered toast or mashed potato. Or, let them cool slightly, remove the skins, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot butter or fat until crisp and brown.

Time.—To boil, 15 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to 10d. per lb.

1119.—SAUSAGES, TO FRY.

Ingredients.—Sausages, frying-fat.

Method.—Prick the sausages well with a fork, as this prevents the skins breaking. Put the sausages into a frying-pan containing a little hot fat, and fry gently, turning 2 or 3 times, so as to brown them equally. Serve on mashed potato or toasted bread.

Time.—About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to 10d. per lb.

1120.—SAVOURY LIVER.

Ingredients.—1 lb. of pig's liver, 1 lb. of potatoes, ¼ a lb. of onions, ¼ a teaspoonful of powdered sage, 1 teaspoonful of salt, ½ of a teaspoonful of pepper, ½ a pint of water, apple sauce (see No. 316).

Method.—Wash and dry the liver, cut it into rather thick slices, cut the onions into small dice, and slice the potatoes. Place a layer of potato at the bottom of a greased pie-dish, cover with slices of liver, add a good sprinkling of onion, and season well with salt and pepper. Repeat until all the materials are used, letting potato form the top layer. Pour in the water, cover with a greased paper, and bake slowly for 2 hours. Towards the end, remove the paper to allow the potatoes to brown. Serve with apple sauce.

Time.—About 2 hours. Average Cost, 10d. to 1s., exclusive of the apple sauce. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

1121.—SAVOURY PUDDING.

Ingredients.—½ a lb. of fine oatmeal, ½ a lb. of stale bread, ½ a lb. of finely-chopped suet, 2 large onions, 1 teaspoonful of salt, ¼ of a teaspoonful of pepper; ½ of a teaspoonful of powdered sage, ¼ of a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, 2 eggs.

Method.—Soak the bread for ½ an hour, then drain away any unabsorbed liquid, and beat out the lumps with a fork. Boil the onions in salt and water for ½ an hour, then chop them coarsely. Mix all the ingredients, adding the beaten eggs last. Melt as much dripping in a Yorkshire pudding tin as will form a very thin layer, put in the mixture, spread it evenly a knife, and bake for about 1 hour in a moderate oven. When done, cut into squares, and serve with good gravy. This pudding may be served with pork, duck or goose. In Yorkshire, this pudding, like the batter pudding that takes its name from the county, is served separately, and before the meat.

Time.—To bake, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 10d., for this quantity. Sufficient for 8 persons.

1122.—SAVOURY TENDERLOIN OF PORK.

Ingredients.—6 pork chops, preferably from the lean part under the shoulder, known (according to locality) as spare rib, tenderloin, or neck, 2 lb. of Spanish onions, flour, sage, powdered mixed herbs, salt and pepper.

Method.—Mix together a small teaspoonful of salt, and a ¼ of a teaspoonful each of pepper, sage and mixed herbs. Put this seasoning, the onions cut into dice, and a ¼-pint of cold water into a fireproof stew-jar, cover with a close-fitting lid, and cook gently on the stove or in the oven for about 1½ hours, stirring occasionally. When the onions are about half-cooked, place the chops in a baking-tin, in which a little fat has been previously melted. Mix together a ¼-teaspoonful each of sage, herbs, and salt, and ½ the quantity of pepper, sprinkle ½ this seasoning on the chops before putting them in the oven, cook gently for 15 minutes, then turn them, sprinkle on the remainder of the seasoning, and cook for 15 minutes longer. Drain off every particle of fat, being careful not to disturb the sediment, sprinkle a tablespoonful of flour on the chops and the bottom of the tin, and return to the oven. When the flour is brown, empty the contents of the stew-jar into the baking-tin, and mix the onions well with the browned flour, using an iron spoon to clear the bottom of the tin. Return to the oven for a few minutes, then arrange the chops neatly overlapping each other on a hot dish, and serve the onions and gravy in the centre.

Time.—About 1½ hours. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

1123.—STUFFED PIG'S FEET. (Fr.—Pieds de Porc, Farcis.)

Ingredients.—4 pig's feet, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 egg, breadcrumbs. For the stuffing: 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked and finely-chopped onion, 1 small tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, ½ a teaspoonful of powdered sage, 1 tablespoonful of oiled butter, ½ a teaspoonful of made mustard, ½ a teaspoonful of salt, ¼ of a teaspoonful of pepper.

Method.—Put the feet into a stewpan with a teaspoonful of salt, cover with cold water, and boil gently for about 3 hours. When done, split the feet, remove the bones, and press the forcemeat made of the above ingredients into the cavities. Replace the halves together, and press between 2 dishes, with a heavy weight on the top, until cold. When ready to use, cut the feet into slices about 1 inch in thickness, roll each piece in flour, brush over with egg, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry until nicely browned in hot fat. Or, if preferred, fry them in a little hot butter in a sauté-pan. Garnish with fried parsley before serving.

Time.—5 or 6 hours. Average Cost, 1s. to 1s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

1124.—SUCKING PIG, ROASTED. (Fr.—Cochon de Lait rôti.)

Ingredients.—A sucking pig, not more than 3 weeks old, butter, or salad-oil to baste with, onion forcemeat (see No. 404).

Method.—Make the forcemeat as directed, put it inside the pig, and close the opening by means of a trussing needle and string. Brush the entire surface of the pig with salad-oil or warmed butter, wrap it in several folds of well-oiled or well-greased paper, draw the legs well back, tie into shape, and either roast or bake the pig for 2½ or 3 hours, according to its size. It should be thoroughly well basted, and about ½ an hour before the time of serving, the paper must be removed, and the pig brushed over with thick cream or salad-oil to improve the colour, and crisp the surface. Before serving, cut off the head, and split the pig down the centre of the back; lay the 2 halves on a dish, divide the head, and place ½ at each end of the dish. The usual accompaniments are brown and apple sauces, and sometimes hot currants: the latter should be prepared the day before. To make them plump, they must be scalded, and afterwards thoroughly dried. Re-heat in the oven before serving.

Time.—From 2½ to 3 hours. Average Cost, from 6s. to 10s. 6d. Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons.

How Roast Pig was Discoverd.—Charles Lamb, in his delightfully quaint prose sketches, written under the title of the Essays of Elia, has devoted one paper to the subject of Roast Pig, describing in his own inimitable, quiet, humorous manner how the toothsome dainty known as crackling first became known to the world.

According to this authority, man in the golden—or, at all events, the primitive—age, ate his pork and bacon raw, as indeed he ate his beef and mutton. At the epoch of the story, a citizen of some Scythian community had this misfortune to have his hut, containing his live stock of pigs, burnt down. In going over the debris to pick out the available salvage, the proprietor touched something very hot, which caused him to put his suffering finger into his mouth. The act was simple, but the result was wonderful. He rolled his eyes in ecstasy and conscious of an unwonted and celestial odour, with distended nostrils, and drawing in deep inspirations of the ravishing perfume, he sucked his fingers again and again. Clearing away the rubbish of his ruined hut, there was disclosed to his view one of his pigs roasted to death. Stooping down to examine it, and touching its body, a fragment of the burnt skin became detached, and in a spirit of philosophical inquiry the man put it into his mouth. No pen can describe the felicity he then enjoyed—it was then that he—the world—first tasted crackling. For a time the Scythian carefully kept his secret, and feasted in secret upon his newly found-luxury. When the pig was at last eaten up, the poor man fell into a deep melancholy, refused his accustomed food, lost his appetite, and became reduced to a shadow. Unable to endure the torments of memory from which he suffered hourly, he rose up one night and secretly set fire to his hut, and once more was restored to health and spirits. Finding it impossible to live in future without his newly discovered delicacy, every time his larder became empty he set fire to his house, until his neighbours becoming scandalized by these incendiary acts, brought his conduct before the supreme council of the nation. To avert the penalty threatened him, he brought the judges to his smouldering ruins, and discovering his secret, he invited them to eat! With tears of gratitude the august synod embraced him, and with an overflowing feeling of ecstasy dedicated a statue to the memory of the man who first instituted roast pork.

1125.—TENDERLOIN, FRIED. (Fr.—Tendrons de Porc.)

Ingredients.—Tenderloin chops (see "Savoury Tenderloin"), sage, salt and pepper, frying-fat.

Method.—Place the chops in a frying-pan containing a little hot fat, sprinkle lightly with sage, salt and pepper, cook gently for 10 minutes, then turn and sprinkle the other side. Cook slowly for 10 minutes longer, then remove the chops and keep them hot, and pour away all the fat. Add a little boiling water to the sediment in the frying-pan, season to taste with salt and pepper, boil up, pour round the chops, and serve.

Time.—About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 7d. or 8d. per lb. Allow 1 large or 2 small chops to each persons. Seasonable.—Obtainable at any time.

1126.—TO SCALD A SUCKING-PIG. (Fr.—Cochon de Lait.)

Put the pig into cold water directly it is killed; let it remain for a few minutes, then immerse it in a large pan of boiling water for 2 minutes. Take it out, lay it on a table, and pull off the hair as quickly as possible. When the skin looks clean, make a slit down the belly, take out the entrails, well clean the nostrils and ears, wash the pig in cold water, and wipe it thoroughly dry. Take off the feet at the first joint, and loosen and leave sufficient skin to turn neatly over. If not to be dressed immediately, fold it in a wet cloth, to exclude the air.

1127.—TO SMOKE HAMS AND FISH AT HOME.

Take an old hogshead, stop all the crevices, and fix a place to put a cross-stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be smoked on. Next, in the side, cut a hole near the top, to introduce an iron pan filled with sawdust and small pieces of green wood. Having turned the tub upside down, hang the articles upon the cross-stick, introduce the iron pan in the opening, place a piece of red-hot iron in the pan, cover it with sawdust, and all will be complete. Let a large ham remain for 40 hours, and keep up a good smoke.

1128.—TO CURE BACON OR HAMS IN THE DEVONSHIRE WAY.

Ingredients.—To every 14 lb. of meat allow 2 ozs. of saltpetre, 2 ozs. of salt prunella, 1 lb. of common salt. For the pickle: 3 gallons of water, 5 lb. of common salt, 7 lb. of coarse sugar, 3 lb. of bay-salt.

Method.—Weigh the sides, hams and cheeks, and to every 14 lb. allow the above proportion of saltpetre, salt prunella and common salt. Pound and mix these together. Rub well into the meat, and lay it in a stone trough or tub, rubbing it thoroughly, turning it daily for 2 successive days. At the end of the second day, pour on it a pickle made as follows: Put the above ingredients into a sauce-pan, set it on the fire, stir frequently, remove all the scum, allow it to boil for 15 minutes, and pour it hot over the meat. Let the hams, etc., be well rubbed and turned daily; if the meat is small, a fortnight will be sufficient for the sides and shoulders to remain in the pickle, and the hams 3 weeks; if from 30 lb. and upwards, 3 weeks will be required for the sides, etc., and from 4 to 5 weeks for the hams. On taking the pieces out let them drain for 1 hour, cover with dry sawdust, and smoke from a fortnight to 3 weeks. Boil and carefully skim the pickle after using, and it will keep good, closely corked, for 2 years. When boiling it for use, add about 2 lb. of common salt, and the same quantity of treacle, to allow for waste. Tongues are excellent put into this pickle cold, having been first rubbed with saltpetre and salt, and allowed to remain 24 hours, not forgetting to make a deep incision under the thick part of the tongue, to allow the pickle to penetrate more readily. A fortnight or 3 weeks, according to the size of the tongue, will be sufficient.

Time.—Small meat to remain in the pickle 2 weeks, hams 3 weeks; to be smoked from 2 to 3 weeks.

1129.—TO CURE BACON IN THE WILTSHIRE WAY.

Ingredients.—1½ lb. of coarse sugar, 1½ lb. of bay-salt, 6 ozs. of saltpetre, 1 lb. of common salt.

Method.—Sprinkle each flitch with salt, and let the blood drain off for 24 hours; then pound and mix the above ingredients together and rub it well into the meat, which should be turned every day for 1 month. Hang it up to dry, and afterwards smoke it for 10 days.

Time.—To remain in the pickle, 1 month; to be smoked, 10 days.Sufficient for 1 pig.

How Pigs were formerly Pastured and Fed.—In feudal times immense droves of pigs were kept in England by the barons and franklins, the swine-herds forming a regular part of the domestic service of every feudal household. Their duty consisted in daily driving the herd of swine from the castle-yard. or outlying farm, to the nearest wood, chase, or forest, where the franklin or vavasour had, either by right or grant, the liberty—called free warren—to feed his pigs off the acorns, beech nuts, chestnuts which lay in abundance on the ground. In Germany, where the chestnut is largely cultivated, the amount of food furnished by the trees in the autumn is enormous, and both wild and domestic swine have for a considerable part of the year an unfailing supply of excellent nourishment.

1130.—TO CURE HAMS. (M. Ude's Recipe.)

Ingredients.—For 2 hams, weighing each about 16 or 18 lb., allow 1 lb. of moist sugar, 1 lb. of common salt, 2 ozs. of saltpetre 1 quart of good vinegar.

Method.—As soon as the pig is cold enough to be cut up, take the 2 hams, rub them well with common salt, and leave them in a large pan for 3 days. When the salt has drawn out all the blood, drain the hams and throw the brine away. Mix sugar, salt and saltpetre together in the above proportion, rub the hams well with these, and put them into a vessel large enough to hold them, always keeping the salt over them. Let them remain for 3 days, then pour over them 1 quart of good vinegar. Turn them in the brine every day for a month, then drain them well, and rub them with bran. Have them smoked over a wood fire, and be particular that the hams are hung as high as possible from the fire; otherwise the fat will melt, and they will become dry and hard.

Time.—To be pickled, 1 month; to be smoked, 1 month. Sufficient for 2 hams of 18 lb. each.

1131.—TO CURE HAMS. (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—To 2 hams allow 2 lb. of treacle, ½ a lb. of saltpetre, 1 lb. of bay-salt, 2 lb. of common salt.

Method.—2 days before they are put into pickle, rub the hams well with salt, to draw away all slime and blood. Throw away what comes from them, rub them with treacle, saltpetre and salt, lay them in a deep pan, and let them remain 1 day. Boil the above proportion of treacle, saltpetre, bay-salt and common salt for 15 minutes, and pour this pickle boiling hot over the hams. There should be sufficient of it to cover them. For a day or two rub them well with it, afterwards they will only require turning. They ought to remain in this pickle for 3 weeks or a month, and then be sent to be smoked, which will take nearly or quite a month to do. An ox-tongue, to be eaten either green or smoked, pickled in this way is excellent.

Time.—To remain in the pickle, 3 weeks or a month; to be smoked, about 1 month.

1132.—TO CURE HAMS (Westmoreland Recipe.)

Ingredients.—3 lb. of common salt, 3 lb. of coarse sugar, 1 lb. of bay-salt, 3 quarts of strong beer.

Method.—Before the hams are put into pickle, rub them the preceding day well with salt, and thoroughly drain the brine from them. Put the above ingredients into a saucepan, and boil for 15 minutes; pour over the hams, and let them remain 1 month in the pickle. Rub and turn them every day, but do not take them out of the pickling-pan, and have them smoked for a month.

Time.—To be pickled, 1 month; to be smoked, 1 month.

1133.—TO CURE HAMS (Suffolk Recipe).

Ingredients.—To a ham from 10 to 12 lb., allow 1 lb. of coarse sugar, ¾ of a lb. of salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, ½ a teacupful of vinegar.

Method.—Rub the hams well with common salt, and leave them for a day or two to drain; then rub well in the above proportion of sugar, salt, saltpetre and vinegar, and turn them every other day. Keep them in the pickle 1 month, drain them, and send them to be smoked over a wood fire for 3 weeks or a month.

Time.—To remain in the pickle, 1 month; to be smoked, 3 weeks or 1 month. Sufficient for 1 ham.

The following is from Morton's "Cyclopædia of Agriculture."

CURING OF HAMS AND BACON.

The carcass of the hog, after hanging over-night to cool, is laid on a strong bench or stool, and the head is separated from the body at the neck, close behind the ears; the feet and also the internal fat are removed. The carcass is next divided into two sides in the following manner: the ribs are divided about 1 inch from the spine on each side, and the spine, with the ends of the ribs attached, together with the internal flesh between it and the kidneys, and also the flesh above it, throughout the whole length of the sides, are removed. The portion of the carcass thus cut out is in the form of a wedge—the breadth of the interior, consisting of the breadth of the spine and about 1 inch of the ribs each side, being diminished to about ½ an inch at the exterior or skin along the back. The breast-bone, and also the first anterior rib, are also dissected from the side. Sometimes the whole of the ribs are removed; but this, for reasons afterwards to be noted, is a very bad practice. When the hams are cured separately from the sides, which is generally the case, they are cut out so as to include the hockbone, in a similar way to the London mode of cutting a haunch of mutton. The carcass of the hog thus cut up is ready for being salted, which process, in large curing establishments, is generally as follows: The skin side of the pork is rubbed over with a mixture of 50 parts by weight of salt and 1 part of saltpetre in powder, and the incised parts of the ham or flitch and the inside of the flitch covered with the same. The salted bacon, in pairs of flitches with the insides to each other, is piled one pair of flitches above another on benches slightly inclined. and furnished with spouts or troughs to convey the brine to receivers in the floor of the salting-house, to be afterwards used for pickling pork for navy purposes. In this state the bacon remains a fortnight, which is sufficient for flitches cut from hogs of a carcass-weight less than 15 stone (14 lb. to the stone). Flitches of a larger size, at the expiration of that time, are wiped dry and reversed in their place in the pile, having, at the same time, about half the first quantity of fresh, dry, common salt sprinkled over the inside and incised parts; after which they remain on the benches for another week. Hams being thicker than flitches, will require, when less than 20 lb. weight, 3 weeks; and when above that weight, 4 weeks to remain under the above-described process. The next and last process in the preparation of bacon and hams, previous to being sent to market, is drying. This is effected by hanging the flitches and hams for 2 or 3 weeks in a room heated by stoves, or in a smoke-house, in which they are exposed for the same length of time to the smoke arising from the slow combustion of the sawdust of oak or other hard wood. The latter mode of completing the curing process has some advantage over the other, as by it the meat is subject to the action of creosote, a volatile oil produced by the combustion of the sawdust, which is powerfully antiseptic. The process also furnishing a thin covering of a resinous varnish, excludes the air not only from the muscle, but also from the fat, thus effectually preventing the meat from becoming rusted; and the principal reasons for condemning the practice of removing the ribs from the flitches of pork are that by so doing the meat becomes unpleasantly hard and pungent in the process of salting, and by being more opposed to the action of the air, becomes sooner and more extensively rusted. Notwithstanding its superior efficacy in completing the process of curing, the flavour which smoke-drying imparts to meat is disliked by many persons, and it is therefore by no means the most general mode of drying adopted by mercantile curers. A very impure variety of PYROLIGNEOUS acid, or vinegar made from the destructive distillation of wood, is sometimes used on account of the highly preservative power of the creosote which it contains, and also to impart the smoke-flavour; in which latter object, however, the coarse flavour of tar is given, rather than that derived from the smoke from combustion of wood. A considerable portion of the bacon and hams salted in Ireland is exported from that country packed amongst salt, in bales, immediately from the salting process, without having been in any degree dried. In the process of salting above described, pork loses from 8 to 10 per cent. of its weight, according to the size and quality of the meat; and a further diminution of weight, to the extent of 5 to 6 per cent., takes place in drying during the first fortnight after being taken out of salt; so that the total loss in weight occasioned by the preparation of bacon and hams in a proper state for market, is not lesson an average than 15 per cent., on the weight of the fresh pork.

1134.—TO CURE PIG'S CHEEKS.

Ingredients.—Salt, ½ an oz. of saltpetre, 2 ozs. of bay-salt, 4 ozs. of coarse sugar.

Method.—Cut out the snout, remove the brains and split the head, taking off the upper bone to make the jowl a good shape. Rub it well with salt; next day take away the brine, and salt it again the following day. Cover the head with saltpetre, bay-salt and coarse sugar in the above proportion, adding a little common salt. Let the cheeks be often turned, and when it has been in the pickle for 10 days, smoke it for 1 week or rather longer.

Time.—To remain in the pickle, 10 days; to be smoked, 1 week. Average Cost, 6d. per lb.

1135.—TO CURE OR PICKLE PORK.

Ingredients.—¼ of a lb. of saltpetre, salt.

Method.—As pork does not keep long without being salted, cut it into pieces of a suitable size as soon as the pig is cold. Rub the pieces of pork well with salt, put them into a pan with a sprinkling of it between each piece, and as it dissolves on the top, sprinkle on more. Lay a coarse cloth over the pan, and over it a board, and place a weight on the board, to keep the pork down in the brine. If the air be excluded, it will continue good for nearly 2 years.

Average Cost, 9d. per lb., for the prime parts.

Wide Distribution of the Hog.—The hog is one of the most widely distributed of animals. It is found even in places where the inhabitants are semi-barbarous, and where the wild species is unknown. When the South Sea Islands were first discovered, they were found to be well-stocked with a small black species of hog, the traditionary belief of the islanders being that the animals were coeval with themselves. They had no knowledge of the wild boar from which the domestic breed might be supposed to be derived. The hog is the principal quadruped of the South Sea Islands, and is fed upon the fruit of the bread-tree, yams, and other vegetables, a diet which renders the flesh juicy, rich in fat, and delicate in flavour.

1136.—TO BAKE A HAM. (Fr.—Jambon rôti.)

Ingredients.—Ham, a common crust.

Method.—As a ham for baking should be well soaked, let it remain in water for at least 12 hours. Wipe it dry, trim away any rusty places underneath, and cover it with a common crust, taking care that this is of sufficient thickness to keep in the gravy. Place the ham in a moderately heated oven, and bake for nearly 4 hours. Take off the crust, and skin, and cover with raspings, the same as for boiled ham, and garnish the knuckles with a paper frill.

1137.—TO BOIL A HAM. (Fr.—Jambon bouilli.)

Ingredients.—Ham, water, glaze or raspings.

Method.—In choosing a ham, ascertain that it is perfectly sweet, by running a sharp knife into it, close to the bone; if, when the knife is withdrawn, it has an agreeable smell, the ham is good; but, on the contrary, should the blade have a greasy appearance and offensive smell, the ham is bad. If it has been long hung, and it is very dry and salt, let it remain in soak for 24 hours, changing the water frequently. This length of time is only necessary in the case of the ham being very hard; from 8 to 12 hours would be sufficient for a Yorkshire or Westmoreland ham. Wash it thoroughly clean, and trim away from the under-side all the rusty and smoked parts, which would spoil the appearance. Put it into a boiling-pot, with sufficient cold water to cover it, bring it gradually to boil, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Keep it simmering very gently until tender, and be careful that it does not stop boiling nor boil too quickly. When done take it out of the pot, strip off the skin, sprinkle over it a few bread-raspings, put a frill of cut paper round the knuckle, and serve. If to be eaten cold, let the ham remain in the water until nearly cold; by this method the juices are kept in, and it will be found infinitely superior to one taken out of the water hot. When the skin is removed, sprinkle over bread-raspings, or glaze it.

Time.— A ham weighing 10 lb., 4 hours to simmer gently; 15 lb., 5 hours; a very large one about 6 hours. Average Cost, from 1s. per lb., by the whole ham.

1138.—TO BOIL A HAM. (Another Method.)

Ingredients.—Vinegar and water, 1 head of celery (or less), 2 turnips, 3 onions, a large bunch of savoury herbs.

Method.—Prepare the ham as in the preceding recipe, and let it soak for a few hours in vinegar and water. Put it on in cold water, and when it boils add the vegetables and herbs. Simmer very gently until tender, take it out, strip off the skin, cover with bread-raspings, and put a paper ruche or frill round the knuckle.

Time.—A ham weighing 10 lb., 4 hours. Average Cost, 1s. per lb., by the whole ham.

1139.—TO BOIL BACON. (Fr.—Petit Lard Bouilli.)

Ingredients.—Bacon, water.

Method.—As bacon is frequently excessively salt, let it be soaked in warm water for an hour or two previous to dressing it; then pare off the rusty parts, and scrape the under-side and rind as clean as possible. Put it into a saucepan of cold water, let it come gradually to a boil, and as fast as the scum rises to the surface of the water, remove it. Let it simmer very gently until it is thoroughly done; then take it up, strip off the skin, and sprinkle over the bacon a few bread-raspings and garnish with tufts of cauliflower or Brussels sprouts. When served alone, young and tender broad beans or green peas are the usual accompaniments.

Time.—1 lb. of bacon, ¾ of an hour; 2 lb., 1½ hours. Average Cost, 10d. to 1s. per lb. for the prime parts.

1140.—TO BOIL PICKLED PORK.

Ingredients.—Pork, water.

Method.—Should the pork be very salt, let it remain in water about 2 hours before it is dressed. Put it into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover it, let it gradually come to a boil, then gently simmer until quite tender. Allow ample time for it to cook, as nothing is more unwholesome than underdone pork, and, when boiled fast, the meat becomes hard. This is sometimes served with boiled poultry and roast veal, instead of bacon; when tender, and not over salt, it will be found equally good.

Time.—A piece of pickled pork weighing 2 lb., 1¼ hours; 4 lb., rather more than 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. per lb. for the prime parts.

1141.—TO MAKE LARD.

Method.—Melt the inner fat of the pig by putting it in a stone jar, and placing this in a saucepan of boiling water, previously stripping off the skin. Let it simmer gently, and, as it melts, pour it carefully from the sediment. Put it into small jars or bladders for use, and keep it in a cool place. The flead or inside fat of the pig before it is melted makes exceedingly light crust, and is particularly wholesome. It may be preserved a length of time by salting it well, and occasionally the brine. When wanted for use, wash and wipe it, and it will answer for making paste as well as fresh lard.

Average Cost, 10d. per lb.

1142.—TO MAKE SAUSAGES. (Fr.—Saucisses.)

Ingredients.—1 lb. of pork, fat and lean, without skin or gristle; 1 lb. of lean veal, 1 lb. of beef suet, ½ a lb. of breadcrumbs, the rind of ½ a lemon, some nutmeg, 6 sage leaves, 1 teaspoonful of savoury herbs, ½ a teaspoonful of marjoram.

Method.—Chop the pork, veal and suet finely together, add the breadcrumbs, lemon-peel (which should be well minced), and a grating of nutmeg. Wash and chop the sage-leaves very finely; add these, with the remaining ingredients, to the sausage-meat, and when thoroughly mixed, either put the meat into skins, or, when wanted for table, form it into little cakes, which should be floured and fried.

Average Cost, for this quantity, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for about 30 moderate-sized sausages.

The Hog in England.—From time immemorial the hog has been valued in England. In the Anglo-Saxon period vast herds of swine were tended by men who watched over their safety, and collected them under shelter at night. The flesh of the animal was the staple article of consumption in every family, and a large portion of the wealth of the well-to-do freemen of the country consisted of swine. Hence it was a common practice to make bequests of swine with land for their support, and to such bequests were attached rights and privileges in connexion with the feeding of swine, the extent of woodland to be occupied by a given number being granted in accordance with established rules.

1143.—TO MAKE BRAWN.

Ingredients.—To a pig's head weighing 6 lb. allow 1½ lb of lean beef, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2 teaspoonfuls of pepper, a little cayenne, 6 pounded cloves.

Method.—Cut off the cheeks and salt them, unless the head be small, when all may be used. After carefully cleaning the head, put it on in sufficient cold water to cover it, with the beef, and skim it just before it boils. A head weighing 6 lb. will require boiling from 2 to 3 hours. When sufficiently boiled to come off the bones easily, put it into a hot pan, remove the bones, and chop the meat with a sharp knife before the fire, together with the beef. It is necessary to do this as quickly as possible to prevent the fat settling in it. Sprinkle in the seasoning, which should have been previously mixed. Stir it well, and put it quickly into a brawn-tin: a cake-tin or mould will answer the purpose, if the meat is well pressed with weights, which must not be removed for several hours. When quite cold, dip the tin into boiling water for a minute or two, and the preparation will turn out and be fit for use.

The liquor in which the head was boiled will make good pea soup, and the fat, if skimmed off and boiled in water, and afterwards poured into cold water, answers the purposes of lard.

Time.—From 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, for a pig's head, 5d. per lb.

The Saxon Swineherd.—The men employed in tending swine in Anglo-Saxon times were usually thralls or slaves of the soil, who were assisted by powerful dogs, capable of singly contending with a wolf until his master came with his spear to the rescue. Sir Walter Scott, in Ivanhoe, gives a graphic picture of Gurth, an Anglo-Saxon swineherd; and also of his master, a large landed proprietor, whose chief wealth consisted of swine, the flesh of these liberally supplying his rude but hospitable table.

1144.—HOW TO LARD WITH LARDING BACON.

Ingredients.—Bacon and larding-needle.

Method.—Bacon for larding should be firm and fat, and ought to be cured without any saltpetre, as this reddens white meats. Lay it on a table, the rind downwards, trim off any rusty part, and cut it into slices about ⅛ of an inch in thickness when intended to be used for larding cutlets, small fillets and birds, and slightly thicker when for the purpose of inserting in a whole fillet of beef, or joints of a similar or larger size. Lay these slices on the board and cut them again in strips, each of the four sides of which shall be equal. The length of lardoons varies from 1¼ to 2 inches. They should be inserted as evenly as possible in horizontal lines, and the lardoons forming the second and fourth rows must intersect those of the first and third, thus producing the diagonal lines, and diamond-shaped spaces. The primary object of larding is to add a fatty substance to lean, dry meats, such as the breast of chickens and other birds, backs and thighs of hares, small, lean fillets of veal, mutton and beef, and many other things. They, however, add greatly to the appearance of a dish when the lardoons are arranged evenly, and their ends cut to a uniform length by means of scissors. Larding is a simple and easy process when the lardoons are inserted across the grain or fibres of the meat, but may be very troublesome if an attempt be made to lard thin fillets in a contrary direction. In inserting the needle no more of the flesh should be taken up than is necessary to hold the lardoon firmly in place; and it must be pulled through with a short, sharp jerk, a finger of the left hand being pressed on the end of the lardoon to prevent the end of it passing through with the needle.