Narrative of a Voyage Round the World (Belcher)/Annotated/Volume 1/Chapter 4
CHAPTER IV.
Norfolk Sound, Cape Edgecumbe — Sitka — Russian Governor Koupreanoff — Erect observatory — Establishment of Sitka — Small-pox among the Indians — Attention of the Governor — Entertainment to the natives — Probable cause of disagreements — Musical instruments — Slavery — Russian ball — Quit Sitka — Customary signals — Reach Woody Point — Anchor in Friendly Cove, Nootka — Arrival of Macquilla — Description of natives — Exhibition of magic-lanthorn and fireworks — A court fool — Sulkiness of Macquilla on our refusal to trade — Description of natives — Quit Nootka and proceed to San Francisco.
CHAPTER IV.
On the night of September 11th we observed the aurora. The breeze failed us about noon next day, within a short distance of Cape Edgecumbe. This remarkable land is not sufficiently described by Vancouver, or we should have reached the mouth of the sound, and derived the benefit of the floodtide, instead of being compelled to anchor and warp off the rocks.
Cape and Mount Edgecumbe may be easily distinguished; the latter by being a high dome-shaped peak, on which streaks of snow and bright lines of reddish-yellow clay radiate from its apex. There is not any other high hill on the coast, and the bluff termination of its western slope is Cape Edgecumbe, which, if the sound be open, will also exhibit close under its southern side two small but high islands called "Bird Islands."
In the morning we had stretched well into the southern part of the sound, and at daylight tacked to the northward with a light breeze in our teeth. I despatched Lieutenant Collinson to Bird Island, in order to secure the latitude and longitude during the present favourable weather. He was soon joined by Kellett.
About three the breeze enabled us to lay up for the centre channel, the houses, citadel, and flags of Sitka showing very distinctly. About half-past three we were visited by the Governor's secretary, Mr. Alexander, in a caiack, with the customary string of boarding questions answered by merchant vessels; but finding, as they had imagined, a ship-of-war, these were laid aside, and a note containing the principal points of interest forwarded by the caiack.
The pilot having arrived, we beat into the channel, where, the breeze failing, we resorted to towing, aided by the Governor's barge and other boats sent to our assistance; a practice quite indispensable here, where nine vessels out of ten are forced to tow in or out. The Governor had also despatched his lieutenant-aide, who directed in person the exertions of the Russians, and did not quit us until dark, when, unable to stem the tide, we dropped anchor about two miles from the Fort.
The aide-de-camp then accompanied me in my gig to call on the Governor, Captain Koupreanoff, formerly commanding the Azof, seventy-four, in the Black Sea, who received me in the warmest manner, and tendered all the facilities which the port or arsenal could afford; at the same time, to put me quite at ease in following up the objects of the expedition, he requested I would consider myself quite at home, and make my own arrangements as to the selection of a site for my observatory or any other pursuits. He speaks English well, and with true English feeling acted up to all he professed; indeed, his civilities were overpowering. The Sulphur is the first foreign vessel of war that has visited this colony.
Having warped the ship to within a cable's length of the arsenal, the observatory was landed on an island opposite, and we had the good fortune to obtain complete sights, and secure our meridian before midnight. The natives visited us, bringing salmon, &c., and some few skins, but the Governor having most kindly supplied us with more of the former than we could consume, and any traffic in the latter being expressly against the laws of the colony in which we were guests, I considered it prudent, and what courtesy demanded, that traffic on board or at the observatory should be tabooed. This soon shortened the numbers of hangers on, whose principal object is generally to note the nakedness of the land, and aid in depredations at night.
Independent of this, as the Governor informed me, that even in his time, two years, their fortress had been threatened, and that, although seven hundred only were now in our neighbourhood, seven thousand might arrive in a few hours, I deemed it prudent to keep them as much aloof as our sentinels, without resorting to strong measures, could effect. At the same time, as our boats would be engaged in the examination of the sound during our stay, it became necessary to preserve an amicable feeling so long as they conducted themselves quietly.
The establishment at Sitka is situated on a broad flat delta, on the outer rocky peninsula of which the fortress, which is now rebuilding, stands. It is about sixty feet above the sea-level, and completely commands all the anchorages in the immediate neighbourhood, as well as the peninsula. The inner line, which traverses the longest base of this delta, is protected by a heavy line of picketted logs, twenty-five feet in height, surmounted en cheveux de frise, and flanked at the angles, within musket-shot of each other, by small block-house redoubts, loopholed and furnished with small guns and swivels. It extends from the sea in three fathoms, about one mile through to the river. This cuts off all connexion with the natives, but through a portcullis door, admitting into a railed yard those bringing goods to the market. This door is closely watched by two or three guards, who, upon the least noise or dispute in the market, drop the portcullis, and proceed summarily with the delinquents.
As the traffic is generally conducted by women and children, and the Russians moreover employ female spies in the camp, they are always well warned, and fully prepared for any act of treachery. They have also a party of their allies, (slaves?) the Kodiacks, on the opposite side of the stream, who conduct the greater part of the traffic with the natives, and catch and cure fish for the general consumption.
The present very substantial house erecting for the Governor and his establishment, is about one hundred and forty feet in length, by seventy feet wide, of two good stories, with lofts, capped by a lighthouse in the centre of the roof. The summit of the light is one hundred and ten feet above the sea-level, and commands a most extensive prospect. The building is of wood, solid; some of the logs measuring seventy-six and eighty feet in length, and squaring one foot. They half dovetail over each other at the angles, and are treenailed together vertically. The roof is pitched, and covered with sheet iron.
When complete, the fortifications (one side only of which at present remains) will comprise five sides, upon which forty pieces of cannon will be mounted, principally old ship guns, varying from twelve to twenty-four pounders. The bulwarks are of wood, and fitted similarly to the ports on the maindeck of a frigate.
The arsenal, which is immediately under, on the low ground, is well-stored with cordage of every description, and of very superior quality. The cables and large rope come by sea, but the yarn, in packages of fifty-six pounds, is transported on mules through Siberia. The range of artificers is very complete, and specimens of their workmanship in
View of the Arsenal & Lighthouse, Sitka, New Archangel.
London, Henry Colburn, Great Marlbro' St. 1843.
every department (more than an arsenal generally boasts) attest very superior ability.
The saw-mills, which are worked by water, are about twenty miles distant, half way down the south side of the sound, at Les Sources, or warm springs, which serves as a sort of Harrowgate to the colony.
Their most valuable wood is a very fine-grained bright-yellow cypress, of which they build boats, and export the plank in payment of debts contracted for supplies from the Sandwich Islands, (principally China and other goods.) They have a building slip, protected by a house, similar to those in our dock-yards, and have, I am informed, built one very fine vessel.
The establishment comprises that of a ship of the line, one captain, the governor; one commander, (lieutenant-governor;) and lieutenants, masters, &c., according to the number of vessels employed. The total number is about eight hundred, but of these many, if not the greater part, are invalids; but few able-bodied men were visible. Many, of course their picked men, were absent in their vessels, visiting the ports and collecting the furs, which were daily expected to arrive,—when the vessels are laid up, and they remain quiet until the spring.
I visited every part of the establishment with the Governor, and although a man-of-war's man's ideas of cleanliness are perhaps occasionally acute, (and these people are yet a shade lower in civilization by their intermarriage with the natives,) yet I still witnessed comparative cleanliness and comfort, and much to admire, particularly in the school and hospital. In the latter, the name of the man, date of admission, and nature of disease, is placed over the bed of each patient, which in any contagious disease gives timely warning to any one fearing infection.
Not long since, the small-pox committed dreadful ravages amongst the Indians, and threatened to prove a still greater pestilence, by their neglect of their dead, and not unfrequently of the living, whom they quitted the moment they found them infected. The colony having arrived from the westward, brought their own Sunday; consequently we were generally working on our opposite holidays, a measure I could only obviate by respecting their day of worship, and giving our men a holiday. To our artificers, who could not work at the dockyard on their Sabbath, this was a serious drawback, when we considered the short period of our stay.
I visited their church, and witnessed the ceremony. The interior of the edifice is splendid, quite beyond conception in such a place as this. The padre, who officiated in his splendid robes, was a very powerful athletic man, about forty-five years of age, and standing in his boots (which appear to be part of his costume) about six feet three inches; quite Herculean, and very clever. I took a very great liking to him, and was permitted to examine his workshop, in which I noticed a good barrel-organ, a barometer, and several other articles of his own manufacture. He was kind enough to volunteer his services on one or two of our sick barometers, and succeeded effectually. Notwithstanding he only spoke Russian, of which I knew nothing, we managed to become great allies. He has since been promoted and gone home.
On their Sunday, all the officers of the establishment, civil as well as military, dine at the Governor's. During the week the military meet at the mess daily at one. The dinner is soon discussed. They reassemble at five, take tea, and remain until supper, at ten or eleven, during which interval cards or billiards occupy their time. The attentions of the Governor and his establishment were kind in the extreme.
The vessels in port were one ship, corvette-built, of four hundred and fifty tons, commanded by the Lieutenant-Governor, and two brigs commanded by a lieutenant and a master. They belong to the "Imperial Russo-American Fur Company," who are paid similarly to our troops employed in the service of the East India Company, retaining their rank, and their service time going on.
We visited several stations in the sound, in order to determine the position of Mount Edgecumbe, the Cape, Pouce, and some of the mountains in the sound, in prosecution of a projected survey; a party was also employed cutting wood (cypress) intended for the construction of a new whale-boat.The chiefs having pestered the Governor to ask permission to visit the Sulphur, and glad on my part of an occasion to show that no unfriendly feeling kept them away, I immediately consented to a nomination of the best characters, amounting to thirty-seven, which, with the addition of the Russian officers and ourselves, would form a pretty large party.
They observed great ceremony in their approach, and were dressed in the most fantastic garb imaginable, being generally painted with scores of vermillion, in some instances not devoid of taste. Some had helmets of wood, carved in imitation of frogs, seals, fish, or birds' heads. Others wore the very sensible plain conical hat[1] without rim, which serves effectually to ward off sun or rain; and the generality wore, or carried with them, their native shawl, which is very laboriously worked into carpet figures, from the wool of some animal which I could not ascertain. One or two had cloaks of American sables, which were very handsome, but far inferior to those of Siberia.
Most of the helmet party wore ermine skins, tied loosely about them, which I found were purchased at the factory, and are imported from Siberia (via Ochotsk) for traffic with the natives.
I had an opportunity here, as well as at Port Etches, of viewing some of the skins, particularly the sea-otter, which they purchase from the natives, and was not a little surprised to find how completely they have arrived at their standard value, which is a very high price. A moderately good sea-otter skin will fetch from six to seven blankets, increasing to thirteen for the best; no bargain being conclusive without sundry nicknacks, similar to the Chinese cumshaw. These generally may be estimated at one blanket, which should be worth twelve shillings here. In money they frequently ask forty dollars; on the coast of California, at San Francisco, and Monterey, as much as eighty to a hundred.
When offering objects for sale, they are very sulky if their tender is not responded to; which in some measure accounts for the ill-humour experienced at Port Mulgrave, and which I am inclined to think would have terminated in hostility had I commenced purchases which could not have been followed up. Upon very mature consideration of what I have heard and seen respecting this subject, I think many of the unprovoked attacks we have heard of have originated in some transaction of this nature—refusal to trade being deemed almost a declaration of war. Facts, however, which have been acknowledged, prove that wanton malice has visited upon the next tribe the sins of their offending neighbours. This accounts for the two extremes we notice—extraordinary timidity when they are the weaker, and overbearing impertinence when they fancy themselves the more powerful party.
But to return to our party. The canoes were as fantastic as their occupants, (for which vide sketch.) They were carved in grotesque figures, and remarkably well handled. After encircling the ship, singing, and gesticulating, as if she was to become a good prize, they at length came on board, and were severally presented by the Governor,—not omitting their virtues or vice versâ, when they possessed sufficient notoriety. I observed that those who had become (nominally) Christians were entitled to precedence, but no particular virtues were enumerated as their especial property.
A feast, as it is termed here, of rice and molasses,
NATIVE CHIEF OF SITKA.
CASTANET.
being closely strung with the beaks of the Alca arctica. This being held by the centre of the cross from below, and given a short vibratory motion, similar to the escapement of a watch, produced not a bad accompaniment.
I was heartily glad when they decamped, as they began to be noisy, wanted more lumme (rum,) and thought they had not been treated well,—being as yet only half-seas over, it was too apparent what a pest they might have turned out had I indulged them further!
TOMB.
Slavery exists throughout the tribes on this part of the American coast, and some facts related by the Governor evince the extent to which they are subservient to the caprices of their masters. If a chief wishes to insult another, he sacrifices to him a certain number of slaves. It would be loss of stamp if the opponent failed in despatching an equal number, but generally a larger number answers the insult. This may continue until they have expended their stock, when they possibly come to personal attack, assisted by their allies of the tribe.
On the 26th of September, having completed our observations, we embarked the observatory, and moved down to the outer roads, in order to proceed to sea by a more direct channel. Before parting, the Governor gave an evening party and dance, to show us the female society of Sitka. The evening passed most delightfully; and although the ladies were almost self-taught, they acquitted themselves with all the ease, and I may add elegance, communicated by European instruction. Although few could converse with their partners, they still contrived to get through the dance without the slightest difficulty. Quadrilles and waltzing were kept up with great spirit, and I was not a little surprised to learn from our good friend and host, that many of the ladies then moving before us with easy and graceful air, had not an idea of dancing twelve months previous. I believe that the society is indebted principally to the Governor's elegant and accomplished lady for much of this polish.
This lady is of one of the first Russian families, and resembles the pictures of the empress. She accompanied her husband, enduring great hardships, through Siberia to Ochotsk on horseback or mules, in a most critical moment, in order to share with him the privations of this barbarous region. The lady of Baron Wrangel, I think, was the first Russian lady who ventured so far.
The whole establishment appears to be rapidly on the advance, and at no distant period we may hear of a trip to Norfolk Sound (through America) as little more than a summer excursion.
On the 27th of September we parted from our friends with much regret, and to the latest moment experienced acts of kindness and attention. Our egress was by the direct or southern channel, which leads clear of dangers, and allows of free working-room at a distance of three miles from the anchorage.
There are several remarkable hills in the sound which, in foggy weather, show their summits above all, and serve to help the navigator who has before seen them; but unless particularly inserted on the chart, they are of course useless.
Of these, Mount Edgecumbe, at the northern entrance, is three thousand one hundred and thirty feet above the sea-level, and is easily known by its denuded red stripes. The Pouce, immediately behind the arsenal, is three thousand four hundred feet, and indicates the direction to which the vessel must be pushed for anchorage before dark.
The Russian chart places a light on one of the rocks in the western channel, but this is incorrect. There is but one light, and that is on the citadel, and, unless a vessel makes her signal, will not be illuminated.Two guns is the customary signal; and boats will come out to assist, the pilot coming off in one of them.
There are many rocks nearly even with the water's edge, which by daylight may easily be avoided, but the distinct channels are not easily discerned by a stranger, even when assisted by the Russian chart.
The late strong breezes had raised a heavy westerly swell, which caused us to make very poor work of it, and agitated our chronometers considerably. However, on the morning of October 3rd, we reached Woody Point, and at four the same evening, anchored in "Friendly Cove," Nootka Sound, the very interesting point of Cook and Vancouver's operations.
At first I doubted my senses, that so small a space could have occupied so much type, and until I had examined it myself in my boat, did not think it could afford shelter to two vessels. However, by placing one anchor outside, one well in, and the stream cable to the rocks, the Sulphur became well secure with the Starling within us. The greatest distance between any two points does not exceed a quarter of a mile, and mostly rocky.
The weather, during our stay, proved very unpropitious for astronomical observations, and beyond the absolute requisites for time and latitude, little was obtained, and that only after tediously watching for several days.The Indians very shortly began to assemble about us in their canoes, offering fish; one in particular refused any return, and, from his appearance, and quiet,
MACQUILLA.
dignified behaviour, as well as the respect shown him by those in his own canoe, and in those around him, I was satisfied that he was above the common herd. There were others, of probably opposition tribes, who assumed more, and were more gaudily dressed, but I determined on giving my quiet friend the preference. He was invited on board, and I had the satisfaction of finding him to be no other than Macquilla, the husband of the descendant of the Macquilla or Maquinna of Vancouver, (who states that he left his daughter his successor, and he probably assumed the name with his wife.)
He intimated that Wicán-án-ish stood first in repute, himself (Mack-quill-a) second, and Nook-á-mis third.
He was accompanied by his wife, a son, and daughter, who were evidently of the same breed as himself; much fairer and smoother-skinned than others of the race (or races) about us, and possessing rather prepossessing and agreeable features. Vancouver's description of Maquinna's daughter would accord very well with the present, excepting that the young lady here introduced was yet but a child. Her features were, however, more of the Chinese or Tartar breed, than those of the brother. Her manner was very simple and winning; she had black expressive eyes; and her affection for her father, on whom she often clung, with her head reposed on his shoulder, was quite a novel sight amongst these people.
The son, as well as the daughter, appeared to receive all the respect due to high rank, even from the father, who invariably turned over his presents to them.
I treated them with rice, molasses, and very diluted rum and sugar, after the fashion at Sitka, which they appeared to enjoy; but the damsel making very wry faces at the latter, wine was ordered; the father, however, anxious to taste everything offered her, evidently preferred the milder beverage.
After their repast, presents were given to them, and notice given to retire. This I found not so easily effected, the father and son remaining; and I was compelled to quit them, to pursue my duties on shore. I found them on my return still on board, and, from what I could ascertain from their signs, anxious to barter their furs. I endeavoured to make them comprehend that our supplies were not calculated for trade, nor beyond presents; that I expected no return; and further, that I would land in the evening, and show them fireworks, &c.
At dusk I landed, taking with me a magic-lanthorn and supply of fireworks. At the former they all exhibited the most unfeigned delight, to a degree quite outrageous; but at the ascent of the rockets, their impressions amounted to fear. I had several women grasping me by each hand, huddled into one groupe, and evidently trembling; and, by the light from the fire, I could perceive the tears rolling down the cheeks of Macquilla's wife and daughter, who fled to the bush the instant the fireworks were over; nor could they be persuaded to return, even to witness a second exhibition of the magic-lanthorn.
The excessive enjoyment of Macquilla was ridiculously displayed, by tearing the bushy hair of his particular friend or court-fool, but not so violently as to remove it by the roots.
On the day following, I still found the chief in bad humour, and at length he despatched his fool or first aid, to know whether I intended to trade or not, as he was about to proceed immediately to Tasheis, his residence, some miles up the sound,—Nootka being merely a fishing station.
Other natives observed in a marked manner, "Macquilla go to Tasheis;" I therefore presumed that declining to trade became an insult; and, as I wished to part on the best terms, I sent to assure him that I would see him again on board, the instant I had completed my observations. I accordinly did so, purchased several skins, and accompanied him to the beach, where I enjoyed myself about ten minutes, witnessing the effect of his speech, describing our uniforms which he had seen, as well as his treatment on board. At each pause a complete yell issued from his myrmidons, which at times was anything but pleasant. I suppose it meant "hear, hear," as amongst most cultivated assemblies elsewhere.
Macquilla is about fifty, five feet eight inches in height, his shoulders very square in proportion, and limbs exceedingly muscular. His countenance might assume any expression, from that of determined courage to that of the kindest and mildest feelings; but not of fierceness. His complexion is whiter and smoother than usual. His superiority consists in a dignified, unobtrusive mildness of manner and deportment.
His son appears to be between twenty-three and twenty-five years of age, and stands about five feet nine inches; is fair, and possesses more knowledge than the father. His expression is mild.
The daughter is apparently about fourteen or fifteen years old, and, like all the females of the north-west coast, very short-limbed. Like her sex, she was desperately bent on ornaments, and had enough about her neck and wrists (although covered by her blanket) to set up a distinct trade. Unfortunately, I had none to bestow; Government, or Captain Beechey, not having considered the ladies of sufficient importance, to provide the presents necessary for their gratification. This is bad policy, as their first demand is invariably for presents for the wives and children; and if they are not gratified, we well know the result all the world over.
The dress of the natives differs much from those to the northward. Their cloaks, which are circular capes with a hole in the centre, edged with sea-otter skin, are constructed from the inner bark of the cypress. It turns the rain, is very soft and pliable, and is in use for mats, sails, ropes, clothing, &c.; the roofs of their houses are also covered with it.
They make use of the dried fucus giganteus, anointed with oil, for lines, in taking salmon and sea-otters. The hook is baited with a herring, which abound on the coast, and are taken by a long comb with teeth about an inch asunder, and ten inches in length. This instrument is beaten into the shoal as the canoes glide over it, and as the operator feels it strike the fish, they are, by a slight inclination of the hand, turned into the canoe.
The sides of the bay are covered by salmon-stages in the summer season, when that fish is very abundant. Gooseberries, strawberries, and the whortleberry appear to be plentiful in summer, and probably the raspberry.
No vestige remains of the settlement noticed by Vancouver, nor could I discover on the site of the Spanish battery the slightest trace of stones employed for building. The chiefs pointed out where their houses stood, and where the potatoes grew, but not a trace remains of an European.
On my taking leave of them, the chief and his family exhibited much feeling; indeed, I was not without some slight share of it myself. I had become much interested about the party. Their general courtesy and freedom from importunity, daily present of ten salmon, and information rudely imparted, added to a very pressing invitation to visit them at Tasheis, had convinced me they were superior to any we had yet fallen in with, and that they deserved encouragement.
If the season had permitted, I certainly would have gone with them to Tasheis, and examined that part of the country, but time was precious, the bad season had now arrived, and I much doubted even of the propriety of nearing, much more attempting to enter, the river Columbia.
On the morning of the 9th October, having completed our observations at Friendly Cove, Nootka, we sailed, intending to call off the mouth of the river Columbia, and if tranquil enter; but twenty-four hours after our departure, the weather proved boisterous, attended by a long westerly swell, which rendered it necessary to preserve our offing, and make the best of our way to San Francisco.
On the morning of the 19th October, we made Punta de los Reyes and the Farallones, the weather being beautifully fine, and the sea smooth; but the breeze throughout the day did not enable us to make much progress, and further tantalized us by springing up at sunset. Having closely surveyed the entrance to this port in 1827, I felt satisfied that it was safer and less harassing to our crew to enter by night, than to remain outside, subject to sudden bad weather, as well as the chance of drifting on the bar, where a very unpleasant swell prevails with the ebb.
About nine we entered the heads, and shortly after midnight, as the moon cleared the eastern hills, we dropped anchor in Yerba Buena Bay. We were fortunate in having entered, as it presently blew half a gale, and the Starling outside experienced very unpleasant weather.
- ↑ Used by Mandarins in China.