Narrative of a Voyage Round the World (Belcher)/Volume 1/Chapter 2
CHAPTER II.
Assume the command of the Sulphur — Escort Consul's family to Chagres, and measure meridian-distance by chronometers — Embark the ladies in her Majesty's ship Nimrod,and re-measure distance to Gorgona — Another attempt with the rockets from Caraveli ; unsuccessful ; Explosion bags from tree on Ato.Ormigero; successful — Measure distance to Panama — Power of Moteros in carrying burdens — Opinion on rocket measurement compared with chronometer — Present state of Panama — Move to Taboga — Leave Taboga — Visit Baia Honda — Magnetic Island (Pueblo Nueva) — Pass Gulf of Nicoya — Papagayo gusts — Arrive at Realejo — Obtain supplies — Port of Realejo — Quit Realejo by the Barra Falsa — Repair to Libertad — Visit San Salvador — Return and hear of fatal accident to coxswain — Surf — Difficulty of getting to ship — Succeed, and quit Libertad — Touch at Manzanilla (Port of Colima) — Reach San Blas — Visit Tepic — Quit San Blas for Sandwich Islands.
CHAPTER II.
Having formally taken the command of the Sulphur, and replaced Lieutenant Kellett in the Starling, Lieutenant Dashwood was invalided, and several of the Sulphur's crew were discharged for passage to England.
The affairs of the late consul's family having been arranged, and the necessary preparations completed for their removal, I recommenced my journey to Gorgona with five pocket chronometers. We formed a complete escort for the ladies; and, arriving shortly before them at Gorgona, made all the necessary arrangements for such comfort as could be procured on their water excursion down to Chagres.
Accompanied by Lieutenant Collinson, who was already previously prepared for my immediate departure, we stepped into a light canoe at eight the same evening, but did not succeed in reaching Chagres before noon the day following. The original agreement for this canoe, down and to return, was six dollars; but our increased number induced them to impose; therefore rather than lose an instant I was glad to hear the paddles in motion at the price of ten.
About dawn the ensuing morning, the heavy canoes arrived, and as our repose had been disturbed, in the same manner as on our former visit, we were fully prepared to receive our fair travellers, for whom we had prepared coffee and other requisites by the aid of our kind friend Captain Fraser, — their meeting with whom was a melancholy one, as about one year before he had landed them, in the bloom of health and enjoyment, at this very spot.
At eight, we took our leave of them, they embarking in the Nimrod, and we proceeding to our professional toils, under a broiling sun, on the ramparts of San Lorenzo.
We had arranged to return at two to Gorgona, but our crew had been tampered with, were intoxicated, and it was merely by giving way to all their absurd demands for increase of pay that we eventually departed at dark.
At ten on the 20th, we reached Gorgona, and tried a second set of rockets on Mount Caraveli, but being of faulty construction they failed, bursting the instant they were fired, without ascent.
A second station, by bags of powder exploded from a high tree on Ato. Ormigero, succeeded.
On the following morning we commenced our journey to Panama, the heavy chronometers being packed in a basket of hay, with the pocket watches above them; the whole secured on the head and back of a light-footed Motero.
Some of these men carry enormous burthens; I have already mentioned one case weighing one hundred and seventy-six pounds, brought on the head. It was in this manner, in a chair with the back secured to the head, and the hind legs supported by stirrups to the shoulders, that the Padres travelled in central America and the Equador. It is not improbable that some of these individuals exceeded the above weight.
On my arrival at Panama I found the weather continued so very hazy, and the light of the moon interfered so much, that further operations were delayed until the termination of our survey of the bay, when another attempt was made from Ato. Ormigero to connect Gorgona with Panama by explosion bags.
No one could have felt a greater interest than myself in these operations, and provided I could have been the actor, endued with ubiquity, very possibly I might have been better satisfied with the results. But I have long acted in conjunction with others, and I recollect only two or three instances where comparisons obtained by simultaneous signals from ship to shore, and within three miles, have been satisfactory. I know this from possessing two first-rate pocket chronometers, whose differences could not exceed 0',4", but which nevertheless exhibited as much as two seconds error
City of Panama from the Sea.
London, Henry Colburn, Great Marlbro' St. 1843.
in comparisons thus taken. I have frequently taken a set of comparisons with our whole force of chronometers immediately after an assistant, and found errors of five-tenths or more. I am therefore perfectly satisfied that good pocket watches, previously rated at the extreme positions, are more worthy of confidence than explosion of rockets. We seldom find two observers note the flash of a gun in perfect accordance, even at three miles.
Panama was formerly a place of some note, but shortly after the visit of Ulloa, about a century ago, may be said to have arrived at its zenith. The remains of the buildings evince wealth, and afford some idea of the extent to which they hoped to carry their improvements. But they are now fast falling into decay. The port is seldom visited by vessels of any size, and the fortifications, which originally were admirably constructed, are rapidly following the fate of the houses.
The population is chiefly a mixed race: few Spaniards are to be found. One Englishman, and the American consular agent, comprise all the society we met. This doubtless will change the instant the steam navigation is in force. Inns and lodging-houses must then arise for the accommodation of those pursuing this route.
There is every facility for erecting a substantial pier, and improving the inner anchorage, which must follow the arrival of the steamers, unless they still submit to the miserable landing at the sea-port gate, which is as filthy as it is inconvenient.
Of the governor we saw nothing, except officially. I made the acquaintance of General Herran, with whom I was much pleased. He has been at the British court, and was a friend of the late Admiral Fleming. I am indebted to him for his influence in preserving order at our quarters on the lines.
Panama affords the usual supplies which are to be obtained in these tropical regions, and at moderate prices, but vessels wishing to procure water, bullocks, &c., can obtain them more readily at the island of Taboga.
Having completed our operations at Panama, as well as the survey of the immediate neighbourhood, the Sulphur was moved to the anchorage at Taboga, where she remained completing water and the necessary arrangements for the run up the coast. On quitting Panama, our chronometric force was twenty, two; of these seventeen were trustworthy.
On the 15th March, we quitted Taboga, and pursued our voyage along the coast, with the Starling in company. On being becalmed off a deep indentation of the coast, which appeared to be the mouth of a river, I left in my gig, in order to fix one of its points, directing the ship to follow in should the breeze permit, and the signal for depth be made. About noon she was anchored in what we found to be Baia Honda, and about four p.m. our operations having been completed, we again put to sea in our route to Realejo.
As the 21st March was at hand, I determined on selecting the first eligible spot for making our first suite of quarterly observations, and on the evening of the 20th was fortunate enough to find safe landing on a very convenient island off the mouth of the river leading to Pueblo Nueva.
As these observations were principally magnetic, this island received the name of Magnetic Island. No natives who could afford us any information presented themselves; and all we succeeded in eliciting, was that Pueblo Nueva was situated some distance up the river, of which a very partial survey was at that time made.
Our operations here having been completed, we moved on for Realejo. On the 28th, passed the Island of Cano, and on the 29th, between it and the main, found ourselves at daylight, off the mouth of a large inlet, which we had not time to examine; the current setting strong to the eastward; the weather very hazy, followed by thunder, lightning, and rain.
On the morning of the 30th, we passed the Gulf of Nicoya, and close to the island termed Cape Blanco, at its western point. Here we found ourselves obstructed by a point off which the breakers and rocky ledges above water, extended a considerable distance to seaward. The soundings were regular from twenty-five to eleven, and eight and a half fathoms, hard sand, in which latter depth we tacked successively within a mile and a half of the shore surf, and an outer roller about half a mile from us on the last tack. The weather during the whole day was thick and hazy over the land, followed at nightfall by thunder, lightning, and rain. These symptoms of the approach of the bad season rendered me doubly anxious to get to the northward, as our crew were not at this period in the best condition, and the moist heat we experienced was very oppressive.
At daylight the weather hazy, and Cape Blanco still in sight. A short distance to the westward we observed a sandy sloping bluff, off which a shelf, apparently composed of sand, with conical studded rocks, extended a considerable distance to seaward. On a sandy islet near the bluff, two very remarkable ears jutting up, off which we tacked in thirteen and a half fathoms, sand.
On the 2nd, atmosphere hazy, breeze freshened considerably, which on the 3rd reduced us to double reefs, gradually decreasing towards daylight, when the Volcan de Leon, as well as that of Viego, were plainly seen, and particularly well defined. These strong breezes just at the point we met them, viz. off the Punta Santa Catalina, are the prevailing gusts termed Papagayos, which blow with great force out of that Gulf, and frequently cause the loss of spars. Many fish of large size were seen, and several dolphin caught.
At noon we had reached Point Desolada — a most appropriate name certainly; it seems almost in mockery that one or two stunted shrubs are allowed to stand on its summit — objects at all times of interest to us.
We failed in reaching Realejo before dark, and not knowing its dangers, preferred standing off and on during the night, in preference to the being rocked to sleep by anchoring in the heavy ground swell, or lulled by the roaring of the surf, at all times particularly loud on this coast. The sailing remarks will be found in the appendix.
At eight the following morning we anchored about a mile from the western end of Garden, where, on landing, I found a mark probably left by the Conway when she examined this place a few years back.
The Island of Garden is of volcanic origin, and the beach contains so much iron, that the sand, which probably is washed up, caused the magnetic needle to vibrate 21° from zero. I do not, however, believe that the needle was much, if at all, affected on the summit of the island, where our observations were conducted. Our position was on its new cliffy angle. The boats having examined and found the anchorage safe, the Sulphur was brought in and anchored within the Island of Aserradores, in perfectly still water, four fathoms mud.
On the Island of Aserradores our tide gauge was established, being free from undulation, although directly open to seaward through Barra Falsa; and we were fortunate enough to find a good well of fresh water close to the beach.
The principal object of my visit at this moment was to complete our supplies of sugar and rum, which we had been informed by our naval friends were good and reasonable, and, moreover, the produce of a farm belonging to one of our countrymen, Mr. Bridge.
In this we were rightly informed, and the purser was immediately despatched to make the necessary purchases, as well as bullocks, and other necessaries.
Trusting to the accounts I had read of the magnificence of this port, I had fully intended placing the ship near the town. The visit of the captain of the port soon undeceived me. He assured me that at low water not more than three feet would be found near the town, and so narrow, that there was barely room for the oars of my gig, and then only by careful steerage. Indeed, I found that although the ship might be warped two miles higher up, she would there be entirely shut from any breeze, her yards probably locked in the trees, and swarming with mosquitoes. I deem these remarks particularly called for, as the accounts given in the Modern Traveller may otherwise mislead.
This port, if a settlement were established on the islands of Aserradores, Cardon, or Castanon, would probably be more frequented ; but the distance from the position where vessels usually anchor (within Cardon) to Realejo, is a sad drawback to vessels touching merely for supplies. Rum is also too cheap and too great a temptation for the seamen. Supplies of poultry, fruit, bullocks, grain, &c, are, however, very reasonable, and of very superior quality; turkeys are said to attain an incredible weight; they still, however, justly maintain a very high reputation.
At the period of our visit, a young American had imported machinery for a cotton mill, and had also advanced funds to a family of Leon for the cultivation of the cotton plant on the island of Aserradores. But although the house on the island was in progress, and the machinery erected between Realejo and San Antonio, I much doubt the success of either speculation. Cotton thrives well in the interior, but not on Mangrove islands such as Aserradores, and the plan of the mill power I much question.
These people also are too indolent for the successful pursuit of anything which requires perseverance. They are attracted for the time by the novelty, and rave on the idea of the fortunes they are to make, but one unlucky accident overthrows all their hopes and stability.
The present village of Realejo (for the name of Town cannot be applied to such a collection of hovels) contains one main street about two hundred yards in length, with three or four cross openings, leading to the isolated cottages in the back lanes of huts.
With the exception of the houses occupied by the commandant, our Vice-consul, Mr. Forster, administrador of customs, and one or two others, there is not a decent house in the place. The ruins of a well-constructed church attest its former respectability; but the place is now little more than a collection of huts.
The inhabitants generally present a most unhealthy appearance, and there is scarcely a cottage without some diseased or sickly-hued person to be seen. Our botanical collector proceeded to Leon, in order to make the most of his time. The purser and surgeon visited the sugar establishment of Mr. Bridges at San Antonio, but the duties of the survey detained me at the ship.
About a mile below the town. the ruins of an old but well built fort, with three embrasures, are yet to be traced, and between it and the town are the floor timbers of a brig, which ventured up to grave, but fell to pieces before she was taken in hand. Vessels of 100 tons have grounded at the pier of Realejo Custom-house, but above that they would be left dry at low water.
Mr. Forster, the Vice-consul, happened to be on a visit to Grenada during our visit; we therefore had not the pleasure of becoming acquainted with him.
On the 10th the Starling rejoined us, and our observations and interior survey being complete, we moved to the outer anchorage, to finish the external parts of our plan.
On the 12th the Starling was despatched to Libertad in order to make the necessary arrangements for obtaining time there, at the instant of our arrival, as well as to make enquiries, and provide for our visit to San Salvador, where our Consul-general, Mr. Chatfield, resided.
Realejo is the only port after quitting Panama where British residents can be found, or supplies conveniently obtained. Water of the finest quality is obtained from a powerful stream, into which the boat can be brought and the casks filled by baling, alongside of a small wall raised to cause a higher level. Here the women resort to wash, but by due notice to the Alcalde, this is prevented. A guide is necessary on the first visit, after entering the creek which leads to it, and which should only be entered at half flood; it is necessary to pole the remainder, the channel not having sufficient width for oars.
The water from the well on the island of Aserradores is good, but I have a great objection to water infiltrated through marine sand and decayed vegetable matter, and consider the chances of sickness one step removed by obtaining it from a running stream.
The mountains in the neighbourhood of Realejo are magnificent, particularly to the spectator at twelve or fifteen miles off shore; but as they will be subsequently noticed, as well as the Estero Doña Paula, which leads up to Leon, I shall not advert to them further at present.
On the 13th of April, we quitted Realejo, and aided by land and sea breezes, reached the anchorage off Libertad, on the 15th, by eight a. m. Here I found my good friend Kellett had fully met my wishes, and after breakfast, the surf being then moderate, we risked our persons, not however without a wetting, and gained the Custom house on the beach, which is little better than a mud hut, with a small cabin at one end for the officer. Here we were detained waiting for mules until two p.m., and without any respectable place of shelter, and nothing to amuse us, or even to kill time. This delay became doubly annoying as it would prevent our reaching San Salvador before dark. We mounted our mules, however, which seemed to promise us some little vexation from their miserable condition, and, accompanied by Kellett, set off for San Salvador. The mules, which were before blown in the exertions to evade their pursuers, and much worried by innumerable horse flies, which caused the blood at times to roll freely down their faces, could neither be persuaded nor compelled to move at a faster than cargo rate, little exceeding a walk.
The road is through a very mountainous tract, and for the first five miles the great effort is made to ascend by a bridle road, little better than a goat path, or very similar to the roads between Gorgona and Panama. On reaching the highest pitch from whence we could observe the sea, the scenery grew more interesting, and as the sun declined it became beautiful. At this season too every thing appeared to disadvantage, the atmosphere being hazy, and the vegetation parched; they were also burning the trees, &c., to clear and manure, and the temperature was sultry in the extreme.
About seven we reached the village of Hojia, but hardly had we made our calculations on reaching the city of San Salvador, at nine, when the sound of thunder and the appearance of heavy black clouds caused us to pause. Our guide also made his preparations for the coming storm with so much determination, by unsaddling and packing our baggage under the centre of an open horse-shed, that it was received by us as a signal for no further remonstrance.
Thunder, lightning, and rain we had in profusion. But there are few evils without some trifling loophole through which comfort may be derived, or at all events imagined, by those in the humour to make the best of all disasters. The change of temperature was a great relief, and we consoled ourselves by looking forward to the enjoyments of a cool ride when the clouds should have passed. The only shelter we had was shared with our mules; and, perched on our respective saddles and baggage, aided by Indian corn leaves, we were glad to sup on a couple of eggs, and a plaintain each, not having touched food since six A.M.
After enjoying sundry naps in every imaginable position, interrupted by the encroachment of a leak at one time, or the too near approach of the nose of a mule at another, we arose at midnight, resaddled the beasts, and with a clear sky resumed our journey.
At two we entered the city of San Salvador, and were misdirected by the guard to the house of the French Consul, who was not a little surprised at such an unexpected visit. He was, however, excessively civil, offered us accommodation, and finally sent his servant to conduct us to the house of our Consul-general, Mr. Chatfield, who turned out with much good-humour, provided refreshments, and having chatted away the interval employed in preparing our beds, we finally enjoyed an uninterrupted repose in civilized style.
We were amused in the morning by the sound of martial music, and found a band of eight heroes very pompously attired, parading the street, but unaccompanied by troops. At ten they returned with the latter, in number about twenty; the master of the band, fancying himself at least a general, and using as many antics as a gander, leading forth his troop to the green. The whole number reminded one much of Listen's brave army in Bombastes Furioso.
The town is very prettily situated on a level plain or amphitheatre, from which several lofty mountains rise, that of the Volcano de San Salvador being the most conspicuous. The streets are broad, and very clean for a foreign town; the houses have very projecting eaves; they are substantial, although lightly constructed, and of one story only, in consequence of the liability to frequent shocks of earthquake. They have internal courts, and appear to possess convenience, space, and comfort. All are well supplied with water by aqueducts; have a good market, every necessary being cheap, and abundant; and nothing is wanting to their comfort but society, and strictly enforced order. The want of this latter, I am informed, is a sad drawback; and it never can be attained under their present laws, habits, &c. One of these habits, arising from their new system of Independence, is entering your house, and seating themselves without invitation: any opposition might be attended by unpleasant results — even to assassination.
During the day we accompanied Mr. Chatfield to call on the President Morasan, an intelligent gentlemanly person, very much like the portrait of Bolivar, which at the time was suspended over his chair. We afterwards called to make our apologies to the French Consul, who, being from home, returned the call, and pressed us strongly to dine the day following, but as our return was imperative, we were obliged to decline the honour.
The temperature in the shade during our stay averaged 76°.
At six the next morning, we commenced our journey to Libertad. The weather was cool and pleasant, from the effects of the late rain. The country in the neighbourhood of the city appears to be in cultivation — apparently sugar-cane. Cattle are abundant, and, although in a state of civil war, the toils of clearing the soil of wood, by fire and axe, are still in activity.
On reaching the highest point of the ridge, which commands the sea as well as the surrounding mountains, we had anticipated a grand treat, ])ut the action of the sun on the recently saturated earth had clothed all in vapour.
At a stream, half the distance down, we stopped to take our luncheon, which we enjoyed under the shadow of an immense tree overhanging the stream. Our poor beasts, however, were grievously tormented by their enemies, the horse-flies, which caused them literally to flow with blood, but more particularly about the head and neck.
About two o'clock, as we neared the beach, I perceived Lieutenant Collinson awaiting my arrival. His presence on shore, backed by the expression of his countenance, foretold disaster; and I very shortly learned that my gig had been overwhelmed in the surf, and my coxswain drowned. This was a severe blow to me, as I had never before lost a man since I held a command.
On our arrival at the beach, I found no less than fourteen hands on shore, and not the slightest chance of passing the surf. We Mere compelled patiently to await the following dawn, at which moment the sea, owing to the land breeze blowing during the night, and until six in the morning, usually overcomes the impetus given by the sea breeze of the day.
By the statement of Lieutenant Collinson, I found that our misfortune was witnessed by the persons in power with the most perfect apathy; and of this I had ocular demonstration in a second mishap.
In the morning we succeeded in passing our whale-boat, which got out well. Kellett followed in his gig, but unfortunately got into a heavy roller, and for some minutes I was at a loss to ascertain who were saved, my attention being directed to Kellett. By great exertion I prevailed on one or two natives to assist the seamen, who, although not more than knee deep, were sinking from exhaustion, and would probably without aid have been carried back by the efflux. I was myself, although fresh, scarcely able to keep my footing, the boulders and sand falling back with such force on the efflux.
During this affair, the commandant stood mute, nor did those under his command offer the slightest assistance. However, their miserable appearance but too truly indicated their utter helplessness and imbecility.
We succeeded in recovering the gig, which was slightly stove, and as we could not get off for several days, we employed ourselves in preparing her for the next attempt.
Every scheme to effect a communication, by casks, rockets, &c., failed, and every attempt to take advantage of a lull proved abortive, although Kellett watched in the water, with the boat afloat, for some hours. At length, on the morning of the 22 April, we succeeded in passing Kellett out in his gig by six a.m. We had no serviceable whale-boat remaining, and one of our gigs was therefore sent. She swamped in a heavy roller, but the officer, Mr. Speck, mate, and crew, having been selected for the duty and well prepared, swam in with the connecting line fast to our cutter, which was moored without the danger limit. They also succeeded in bringing in the boat, but bilged. A cask containing implements was then hauled in, into which the clothes and instruments were packed and sent off by the line to the cutter. Having repaired our boat rapidly, we made an attempt, and fortunately passed without a spray.
The body of the coxswain was not found, although the shores were searched daily. It is probable that he was taken by the sharks, as he was a light hand and expert swimmer.
"Port of Libertad." One would naturally expect from this title that something pretending to a bay, or deep indentation at least, would have warranted the appellation. But a straight sandy beach, between two slightly projecting ledges of rock about one mile asunder, forms the playa of Libertad: it is law and interest only that have made it a port.
At times the bay is smooth, but the substratum at the beach being of large smooth boulders of compact basalt, the instant the surf rises they are freed from their sandy covering, and a dangerous moving stony bottom left, on which the boat grounded. We were informed that it is generally violent for three or four days at full and change, which corresponded to the time of our visits.
The village contains about twelve huts, with a family of about six in each. There is also a long government building constructed of adobes, in which the tackle of the bongos used for landing cargoes is usually stored; and a cabin for the commandant at its extremity served for parlour, bedroom, kitchen, &c. The only pet birds were fighting cocks perched under the chairs, or probably tethered in the corners. Cockfighting is a complete passion in Spanish America.
This is all that can be hoped for at Libertad.
The rollers which set in on this beach curl and break at times in four or five fathoms, at least a quarter of a mile off. Those within, which are the most dangerous, are caused by the offset or efflux.
The sand beach is composed chiefly of magnetic iron sand, the dried superstratum, about one inch in thickness, caking in flakes free from admixture.
The anchorage is uneasy, and, I should think, unsafe, and should be avoided near the full moon. Sudden rollers come in, which are apt to snap chain cables, unless with a long range.
Poultry, bullocks, &c., are to be obtained, but compared with those of San Salvador or Realejo, the prices are exorbitant. Bullocks can only be embarked in one of their bongos.
On the 22nd we quitted our anchorage, intending to make the shortest passage to San Blas. By the advice of several old traders, I stood to sea in order to reach the trades, as the inshore passage is not only tedious, but subject to strong gales in opening the Gulf of Tehuantepec.
We experienced a very heavy swell from the north, succeeded by strong breezes, and parted company from the Starling during the night — the ship very wet and uneasy.
Crossed the track of the Blossom; compared observations for magnetic declination: observer in both cases, E. B.
That given in Bauza's chart 10½, is probably an error of the engraver.
Fish were numerous — among them many flat fish similar to the old wife; but until cooked, I was not aware they had been taken, otherwise specimens would have been preserved, as the caudal, dorsal, and anal fins were uncommon.
Having crossed the limits usually assigned for the trade, and outside of the Blossom's track, I gave up all further idea of making more westing, and in 12° 30′ N. long. 102° 40′ W. stretched in for the land, our water being short, and trusting to Acapulco being on our lee in the event of distress.
On the 12th May we made the land about three hundred miles eastward of Cape Corrientes. Continued to ply close in shore, taking advantage of land and sea breezes — the latter never holding longer than six hours — viz. coming in about ten and ceasing at four. Current strong, easterly. The land breezes, when close in shore, helped us from eleven p.m. until eight a.m., but were never sufficiently strong to impel us beyond three knots, — seldom two.
On the morning of the 14th, saw the Starling about ten miles to the E. S. E.; kept sight of her from the mast head until the evening of the 19th, when she again parted.
On the evening of the 17th, when tacking very close in, apparently at the mouth of a large river or estuary, observed a vast crowd of men, women, and children, waving to us. This, Ave afterwards found, was some superstitious ablution which had collected thousands from the interior. I have witnessed a very similar exhibition at Lytham in Lancashire, in the month of August, at the highest spring tide.
On the evening of the 20th we anchored off Manzanilla, and dispatched a boat to seek for water. On her return, we learned that the Leonora barque, having some English amongst her crew, was at anchor inside, and that water might be obtained close to the beach. On the following morning, we beat in, and anchored in a snug berth in twelve fathoms. We determined the position; obtained ten tons of water and one bullock; and at midnight were again en route.
The bay is small, but safe, anchorage good, water brackish. There are no houses, — men and families living exposed under the trees, and had not the Leonora been there, it is probable that we should not have met a soul.
This port is the main sea communication with the city of Colima, thirty leagues, or eighteen hours travel from hence, and containing a population of thirty-eight thousand.
The following was kindly furnished by a friend, who at the moment was on business at Colima.
"This port has a good anchorage, and is well protected against the southerly winds prevalent during the rainy reason, but, on account of a very considerable lake of stagnant water in its immediate neighbourhood, is very unhealthy during- the summer. Infested by myriads of mosquitoes and sand flies, even in the dry season, it is nearly impossible to reside there.
"This port has been open to foreign commerce for several years, but has not been able to make much progress. The port itself has not a single house, and the first adjacent town is Colima, formerly the capital of the territory bearing the same name, now embodied with the department of Michoacan.
"Colima, it is true, is a large town, of considerable consumption, containing about thirty thousand inhabitants; but the distance from the port (thirty leagues) and the difficulty of communication, the roads being passable in the dry season only, naturally augment the expenses on any mercantile transaction, to such a degree that it scarcely pays — as any cargo which could be introduced, would be merely to supply the district of Colima. Such drawbacks, added to the detention, deter vessels from touching at Manzanilla.
"Another cause which must divert the maritime trade from Colima and Manzanilla, is the preferable market at the capital of Guadalaxara, for its produce of sugar, maize, coffee, cocoa, indigo, &c.; and as these articles are not eligible for exportation, on account of the high cost prices, the foreign merchant could only deal in cash payments, whilst Guadalaxara, which is generally overstocked with goods, via Tampico on the east, and San Blas on the west, can supply Colima with the necessary merchandize by barter.
"The articles saleable at Colima are linens, cotton goods, woollens, and a little hardware; but, as already stated, in small quantities, calculated perhaps for the the consumption of about ten to fifteen thousand souls."
The captain of the port had previously received full instructions to afford us every facility that the country could offer, and to repair to the beach on our arrival. We found him here, but doubtless brought down by the supercargoes of the Leonora. He urged me strongly to wait until the following day, when the colonel commanding at Colima would call upon me. We quitted the port at dawn.
After a very tedious beat, we succeeded in reaching San Blas on the 27th, but did not gain our berth at the usual anchorage until the following morning, when we found the Starling had been here two days.
No prospect of provisions, and no dispatches.
On the receipt of a letter from my old friend Mr. Barron, our Vice-consul at Tepic, who held out hopes of finding provisions at Mazatlan, which had belonged to a whaler wrecked at Cape St. Lucas, I immediately despatched the Starling to purchase them, with directions to rejoin me off Isabel Island.
Having received a very pressing invitation to come to Tepic, where Mr. Barron was suffering in apprehension of a severe family affliction, and it being essentially necessary that we should arrange about letters, provisions, &c., I set off immediately, accompanied by my assistant-surgeon Mr. Hinds, and Messrs. Simpkinson and Nicholson, mids.
As we entered the town, Mr. Barron's favourite daughter, about eighteen, expired, and it was not for some days that I could communicate with him on service matters. I had already received an invitation from another friend Mr. Forbes, to make his house my resting place during my visit, (I was also his guest in 1828,) and foreseeing the gloominess of the house of affliction, he had most kindly made arrangements for the accommodation of all our party.
The funeral, which took place the following day, was very splendid, and attended by all the rank and respectability of Tepic; indeed the loss appeared a public calamity; so entirely was the deceased the idol of this small community, every family seemed to participate in it; nor did they regain their spirits during our stay.
Having made the necessary observations for proving the longitude of Tepic, and completed my affairs with the Consul, we started for San Blas at half-past three the following morning, and reached the beach at four in the afternoon. Passing through the town of San Blas, it being my first visit since 1828, I was astonished at its utter desolation. It seemed like another Pompeii, or the tomb of a city, compared to what I had witnessed in 1828.
In the square, which at that period had every door open, not three human beings were to be seen; and on the market evening, (Saturday,) when I certainly expected to have found some little remnant of former gay scenes, not one hundredth of the numbers were assembled.
It is truly melancholy to witness such changes. I fear its fate is sealed, and nothing but a pile of ruins will mark this once gay spot, particularly as the main road now passes beneath the hill, and the houses at the beach have increased.
That same evening I took my departure, the ship having weighed in the afternoon, and awaited me outside the Piedra de Tierra.
On the 10th June we passed the Isabel, when the Starling rejoined, having fortunately obtained part of the supplies for which she had been despatched.