Narrative of a Voyage Round the World (Belcher)/Volume 1/Chapter 3
CHAPTER III.
Search for islands in the neighbourhood of Socorro— Clouds and Freshwater Island — Pass over position of Best's Island — Make Clarion's — Search for islands reported by Whalers between 130° and 136° W. — Cross Blossom's track— Method of inserting track — Make Island of Maui — Singular cascades — Arrive at Oahu — Enter the port to relit— Question of forcible entry of "Clementine" — Appeal to the Government — Unsuccessful — Re-capture Clementine, and send her for the king — Missionary threat— Land the missionaries — Arrival of the French frigate Venus — Letter from the king — Arrival of the king's yacht — Royal reception — King consents to the missionaries remaining — Suspicions of foul play — Take leave of Venus, and quit Oahu — Arrival in the Bay of Atooi — Quit Hanalai — Present condition of Oahu — Views of the king — College at Maui — Starling despatched to Port Mulgrave — Touch at Rose Island — Arrive at Port Etches —Aurora observed — Visit the Russian settlement of Port Etches — Discover traces of Captain Portlock on Garden Island — Quit Port Etches — Extraordinary appearance of land near Cape Suckling — Anchor in Icy Bay under Mount Elias — Point Riou not to be found — Icebergs — Arrival at Port Mulgrave — Rejoin Starling — Lip ornament — Quit Port Mulgrave.
CHAPTER III.
Our course was now directed for the Sandwich Islands, where we were almost certain of completing our supplies. Baffling winds, with a heavy S.W. swell, prevented our clearing Cape San Lucas until the 14th, when we began to make pretty fair runs.
Sunday, June 19th, having reached the range of Socorro and Clarion Groups, several of which are doubtful, I despatched the Starling to seek for Fresh water and Clouds Islands, and rejoin us off Clarion.
My attention was directed to Clarion, Nublada, and Best Islands. The weather unfortunately was very unpropitious, preventing our obtaining astronomical observations.
Birds, principally gannet, together with broad patches of weed at times, plentiful.
On the 20th we found we had been drifted much to the southward of our reckoning; hauled up for Best's Island, and passed over its assumed position, at which time we could easily have discovered a breaker five, and land ten miles off. About six we made the east end of Clarion Island, distant about fifteen miles; and by eight its bearing, due north, proved that its position in longitude is not far from correct.
The Starling was now directed to pursue a course so as to enter on the 130° meridian in latitude 17° N. I bore up to preserve a parallel course to her, and enter at 16° 30′ N., at which point another cluster of doubtful islands was reported to exist, as well as a continuous batch given us by the whalers in 1826 and 1827, as far as 135°, and which we then sought in the Blossom, without success. As the Starling would preserve a W.b.S. and the Sulphur a W.b.N. course through that region, avoiding the Blossom's track, they ought to have been found if they existed.
22nd. Wind light, Medusæ more plentiful, and a few sticks floating, excited our hopes of finding land; but the current having been determined to set S. 86° W., this would bring them from Clarion island.
24th. Breeze varied much in strength, water smooth. Tropic birds, (Phaeton Ætherius,) and frigate Pelican (Pelecanus Aquilus) also observed. As these latter birds do not go far from land, I am disposed to believe some one of these reports to be well founded, but the position erroneously determined. Weather unfavourable for astronomical observations, even should we discover land.
25th. Weather variable in puffs, varying our rate from five to nine knots. Shortly after noon the appearance on the lee quarter caused me to suspect land in that direction, but the indication was not sufficiently distinct to warrant any deviation from our course. Should chance lead me in this direction again, I shall certainly cross the meridian of to-day fifteen miles further south. Tropic birds, frigate pelican, gannet, and flying-fish, were noticed, and during the day we had partial showers.
26th. Same observations as to wind varying in puffs about nine a.m. and p.m.: fewer birds, but no symptoms of land. On the 27th entered the limits assio-ned to Whaler's discoveries. 28th. Crossed Blossom's track. 29th. Passed over many positions assigned. No symptoms of land beyond the smoothness of the water, wind coming in gusts at nine a.m, and p.m., and frequent showers — the last one of the strongest indications within the tropics. The spaces thus examined must, however, relieve the general navigation of this region.
I have been thus minute upon this subject, as I cannot divest myself of the impression that land exists in this neighbourhood. So many assertions can hardly rest on imagination.
By the ordinary system of laying down the track of vessels, no clue is obtained as to the actual limits of examination. The actual limit of vision is entirely lost sight of. To render this more distinct in the Sulphur's track, great attention has been paid to the radius of vision, so that the dotted circles distinctly point out where no land can exist. The space has also been sounded two hourly, with as much line as our velocity would admit.
Sharks troublesome; lost one patent log, and the rotator of a second damaged. Mr. Massey should invent something to obviate this nuisance. On July 7th, at daylight, saw the outline of the island Maui, (or Mowee of the charts,) and about eight the N.W. extremity of Hawaii (Owhyhee.) The heavy clouds capping the summits of both islands prevented our obtaining a glimpse of these remarkable peaks.
The numerous cascades resulting from the showers afforded us a very interesting embellishment to the lower scenery, which we were passing within three or four miles of the breaker line. To seamen there is a peculiar enjoyment even in the sight of fresh water; but the numerous silver threads of it here sportively displayed must be seen to be duly enjoyed. No description can convey the idea of their number and variety, and a sketch including twenty leaps within one or two hundred yards, would appear almost a burlesque, yet such was the fact. About four we passed the east end of Maui, and came suddenly upon Morotoi, (or Molokoi,) Rana (Lana) visible in the interval.[1]
The view of Molokoi from this position is very singular. Four exactly parallel outlines of most picturesque and lofty cliffs appeared almost a visual deception, or the effect of quadruple refraction. But as we advanced it proved in this instance a reality; height about four hundred feet, and varying but slightly from the perpendicular, The current being strong in our favour, and our velocity above eight knots, the scene varied sufficiently to preserve our interest from flagging. Here also, as on Maui, several very pretty and loftier cascades embellished the scenery, which was rich in colours, but like the work of the scene painter, not bearing to be examined too closely. Attired in nature's clothing only, the scene will probably never be subjected to cultivation.
About sunset we were off the N.W. extreme of Molokoi, and steering for Oahu. About midnight we found ourselves much closer to the breakers of the latter island than our speed warranted us in expecting, the current having helped us considerably.
Fortunately we were on the alert, and hauled off in time to escape danger. The wind being very strong, with rain, we hove to until daylight and then bore up for Honululu.
At six the pilot's boat came off, bringing Mr. Reynolds; the pilot being drunk, and the wind not admitting our entry, we anchored outside. I landed, and was received with much warmth by my old friends the British and American Consuls. On the morning following the ship was anchored within the harbour, and our refit commenced.
The Consul applied for my interference, in the question raised against this government, by the forcible entry of the brigantine Clementine, under the British flag, and compelling her to receive on board as prisoners two French missionaries, brought by her on her late voyage hither from California, — thus making a prison-ship of a British vessel — after her cargo had been started, the vessel returned to her owner, and these people were permitted to land. The government at first had endeavoured to carry their object by bribery with the master and owner; on this failing, they had recourse to force; on which the Consul advised the colours to be struck, and the vessel abandoned. The Consul, I think rather indiscreetly, caused the flag to be burned.
I had before been apprised that the lady chief, Kinau, who governs the island, was entirely under the control of a missionary, not only obnoxious to the civilised community, but also in bad odour with the natives and chiefs themselves, and that I should not be able to obtain satisfaction. It was further reported, that by his advice (or command) the cruel and barbarous act of sending these two persons to be landed on a desolate part of California in 1830, was carried into effect merely from the fancy that his followers would be seduced by them from his style of religion,—if I am to profane the name by terming it such.
My duty, however, was plain. If I could succeed in opening their eyes to the injustice and inhumanity of their act, as well as the grievous insult they had, through their ignorance, offered to our flag, tant mieux. Failing in that, stronger measures would follow.
Having given due notice to Kinau and her chiefs that I wished to speak on this subject, they assembled at her house, Kuanoa, her husband, receiving us with military honours, in his general's uniform. The chiefs were present, as well as most of the missionary establishment.
Finding remonstrance useless, and that their principal missionary leader, Mr. Bingham, evidently spoke in his own name as well as theirs, and therefore that they were not free agents, I ventured to acquaint them that stronger arguments must be resorted to, and I instantly ordered the brig to be recaptured, and the British colours re-hoisted.
Mr. Bingham then ventured to show himself in his true colours, and, intimating "that blood would flow from this act," I most distinctly assured him, "that having now ascertained his character, I should visit that threat on his head, and that his life should answer for the first drop of British blood which his agency should cause to flow." It is true that I did accompany that threat with my clenched fist, but totally false that any action of mine towards Kinau could be so construed. Indeed, I felt too much pity for her situation, and so far from the slightest animosity at that instant existing, she shook hands with me, and Kuanoa, the husband, warmly pressed my hand at parting.
I immediately decided on landing the missionaries, and sending an officer in the Clementine to Maui, requesting the immediate presence of the king, who was there on a visit.
At this critical moment the French frigate La Venus, of sixty gmis, made her appearance. Captain du Petit Thouars sent to request I would allow him to act in conjunction, and on his landing, a fresh interview was requested and obtained. However, finding them stubbornly determined on maintaining their acts, we came to the determination of awaiting the arrival of the king.
Before sunset the missionaries were reinstated in their domiciles, accompanied by the white population, and crowds of natives, who appeared to rejoice in the act. The recaptured Clementine, in charge of Mr. Speck, mate, and under her proper banner, triumphantly quitted Honululu to apprise the king of our first acts.[2]
The Starling hove in sight about the same time, and so far from showing any hostile feeling, Kuanoa himself, with his large war canoes, assisted in warping her in.
The Venus I had been taught to expect in these seas, her voyage being partly scientific; our meeting, therefore, was very cordial. At a dejeuné given on board the Venus to the Consuls and myself, the flags of England and America combined were hoisted at the fore, and a salute of eighteen guns fired. I regretted much our inability to return the salute, our orders forbidding it except in cases of necessity.
On the 20th the king arrived, contrary to the expectation of many, as we had been given to understand that every missionary entreaty and threat had been exerted to prevent him. However, as his reply to my letter was friendly, and very decided, I will do him the justice to say that I never for an instant doubted the pledge he had given me.
"Captain Belcher, of H. B. M. S. Sulphur,
- "Honululu, Oahu.
"Love to you, Captain Belcher, of the British sloop-of-war, the stranger beloved. I have received your letter, and I give my consent to your request of me to return to Oahu: I will indeed return, that we may together adjust that affair; because it was I, indeed, that returned those two Frenchmen on board the vessel: I did it by the hand of Kinau, my assistant-chief, the one who banished them. As was formerly done to those two men, by the hand of Kahamanu, who was formerly my assistant-chief, so it has been done to them at this time. This was my doing; but the taking capture the brig Clementine, and the burning of the flag, and acting in opposition to Britain, I have not by any means done that, nor have my assistant-chiefs.
"A vessel has gone after Kuakini, governor of Hawaii; when he comes, then I will sail.
He came in his yacht, the Don Quixote, a barque purchased from the Americans, and mounting a few guns for saluting. I waited on him on board her, and arranged a meeting for the day following.
The captain of the Venus, accompanied by his officers, and the American and English Consuls, with myself and such officers as could be spared, repaired at noon to the king's house, where we were received by the officers attendant on the king, in their state uniforms, similar to those worn at the time of Lord Byron's visit in 1825. The king wore a round blue jacket with lace straps on the shoulders, and an embroidered crown on the sides of the collar, with fawn-coloured drill trowsers.
The chiefs were seated on chairs, in line with the king; the lady chiefs on a bank of raised mats behind. Our party occupied a line of chairs fronting them.
The king has not grown much since 1827, but is confirmed in his formation, stout built, and about five feet six. His reception was very cordial, but I could plainly discern that he had been previously severely schooled for this meeting.
Before proceeding to business, both Captain de Petit Thouars and myself protested against the interpretation or interference of Mr. Bingham; indeed we requested his absence. This latter point was not conceded, and he took up a position where he could command the eye of the king; but the sharp glances of some of the officers of both ships were too powerful for him; and I believe something very much allied to menace from one of the lieutenants of the Venus damped his ardour, as he spent the remainder of the time with his head between his hands, nearly resting it on his knees.
The questions at issue were—1st, The forcible entry of the Clementine, and putting on board Messrs. Bachelot and Short.
2nd, The right of British subjects to reside at these islands, so long as they conformed to the laws, as established by treaty of Lord Edward Russell. This latter they endeavoured to reject—indeed refused to acknowledge. The discussion on the merits of the case of Messrs. Short and Bachelot continued until four, when all parties being exhausted, the king proposed an adjournment until the following morning.
The only object carried was the consent that Messrs. Short and Bachelot should remain unmolested until they could be removed, on the guarantees respectively of Captain Thouars and myself. The meeting was then adjourned.
The discussion was resumed on the morrow at ten, and before two we had concluded by gaining their consent to the unmolested residence of Messrs. Bachelot and Short, until a favourable opportunity offered for their reaching some civilised portion of the globe, and that no further molestation should be offered the Clementine.
I then presented the claims of the owner for demurrage and other expenses.
Before signing the documents, the king requested a private interview in the evening, when I remained with him from seven until ten, discussing quietly the line of conduct he should pursue, and what the civilised world expected of him — reading frequent extracts from Vattel, which I sent for to confirm him.
As I gave him to understand that I would not quit the port until I had a definitive answer for my government, relative to the disputed clause in Lord Edward Russell's treaty, he immediately consented to adopt my reading, and signed a copy that evening, promising another in Hawaian on the morrow.
He protested strongly against the charge of having forcibly taken the Clementine.
He expressed himself "very much indebted for this visit of kindness," and observed, "If I had one who would advise me as you do, occasionally, I should not get into so many scrapes." We parted on the best of terms.
I was escorted home by the officer of the guard and two soldiers, the Governor Kuanoa, and two lanthorns. This escort possibly prevented mischief, as, near the fort, we encountered a native with a musket, in a very suspicious attitude. The officer of the guard struck him full in the face, and he darted off in the direction of the fort. It has been surmised that foul play was intended. The fact of sending the guard, &c., was somewhat suspicious, although it did not occur to me until the following day, when I was told it was their intention to destroy me.
On the following day I sent a letter to his majesty, acquainting' him that the question touching the insult to the flag would remain for the commodore to dispose of, as well as the damages done to the owner of the Clementine. At the same time I sent a formal instrument for his signature, agreeing to the full reading of the treaty entered into with Lord Edward Russell, and further engaging to grant a fair trial, &c., before the usual prerogative of majesty was exerted against any British subject. This was completed in due form, and returned with an Hawaian copy.
The Starling had been despatched the previous day to Atooi, (Taui,) and by four o'clock, our affairs being settled satisfactorily, we embarked the Consul and family, and quitted the Port of Honolulu. As the Venus had saluted our flag, I thought it as well to give them a cordial parting cheer, and for this end gave her a pretty close shave. The cheer was heartily responded to by our French friends, the national colours of the French at our main, and the union at that of the Venus. Before sunset we noticed her get under weigh, and depart for Kamtschatka, Nootka, and Monterey.
At two the day following we were anchored in the snug bay of Hanalae, on the N.W. side of the island of Atooi. Here we found the Starling had arrived a few hours before us. These were the two first British vessels of war which had entered the port.
View of Honululu, Oahu, Sandwich Islands.
London, Henry Colburn, Great Marlbro' St. 1843.
Our object in coming hither was to embark bullocks, which, we were assured, were better and cheaper than at Oahu; and we were fully repaid for the trouble; we obtained noble animals, and meat as fine as in England.
During our detention, the survey of the bay was completed. At four, on the 27th, we took our departure for the north, taking leave of civilized society for some months. Hanalae, besides beef and vegetables of the finest quality, furnishes fruits, poultry, turkeys, &c., cheap and in abundance. Water can be filled in the boats, by sending them into the river.
I shall now return to Oahu, and compare it with what we left it in 1827, just ten years before. On the first glance I thought it had retrograded.
The appearance of the natives was miserable and dirty; their features apparently coarser, and that brightness of eye and independence of carriage which freedom alone can exhibit, were decidedly wanting. The habit of frequent bathing, which constituted half their original existence, is entirely exploded, and not one good trait or feature by which former navigators have described them can be traced!
The substitution of the mud brick, or adobe of the continent, for their former neat wooden paling, gives the town a most gloomy aspect, and adds a dirty cast, independent of the actual nuisance arising from the clouds of dust which dry weather and strong sea breezes bring to your house, resulting from the constant destruction of the adobes.
The native population has decreased in a degree exceeding ordinary calculation, whilst that of the foreign residents has increased in the same proportion. In 1827, with the exception of the Consul's family and the missionary ladies, not a foreign female could be found. At a ball given during our visit no less than twenty couple stood up. Some ladies then were absent from illness, and those of the missionary families could not be expected to attend such sinful pastime.
No apparent change has taken place in the cultivation of the land ; they are still in the same state of idleness as to their own affairs. They cannot cultivate their land, because their labour is demanded for the church, the missionaries having obtained the necessary edict which compels the natives to labour on the reefs, to procure blocks of stone for the purpose of building a new church. The first duty, of obtaining subsistence for their families, was deemed but a secondary consideration. If they presumed to do so on Sunday their punishment was double labour the ensuing week. Even the servants of the foreign residents were interfered with, and arbitrarily marched off.
This state of things could not exist long; great discontent was manifested by all parties, and it probably would have proceeded to some decisive act, had it not been "considered advisable to suspend operations for one year."
At Tahiti the natives are compelled to frequent the church. Here the attendance may be avoided, but "you shall build one of stone." What, it will be asked, is this amount of labour? To cut a block of compact coral limestone from the reef, about three feet long, two wide, and one deep, at low water, and transport it to the shore—say half a mile.
The houses of the foreign residents are considerably improved; shops are more numerous and well supplied, and several of them are kept by Chinese.
The chiefs and upper classes are better clothed, and appear as if they were accustomed to dress properly. Of course the grog shops, bowling ground, billiard rooms, &c., have increased in proportion.
The port, however, is less frequented by whalers, in consequence of their stubbornness in maintaining a ridiculously high port charge. Atooi, where the port dues are evaded, is rapidly seducing the old hands from this port, which, indeed, they do not enter but to refit. I endeavoured to point out this mistake to the king, but his reply was, that the port was in the hands of Kinau—or, in other words, ruled by the missionaries.
If the king and chiefs continue their present course, this island will never improve, but for the benefit of the foreign residents.
The Benin groupe, I am told, is rapidly improving in settlers and importance. It is encouraged, I believe, by our Consul here. If any legal authority existed there, I have little doubt but half the trade of the whalers would be taken from hence, and would aid in establishing the Bonins.
The king and chiefs appear to desire to act in conformity with the established customs of civilized communities, but are led astray by bad advice, which, in the absence of those supposed to be empowered to advise them, they consider themselves bound to adhere to.
I found this observation particularly on what escaped from the king. He appears at all times anxious for the advice and support of Great Britain, and asked "if another lord would come out to settle this affair?" or "who would come to advise him?" He asked many questions; listened eagerly to every suggestion calculated to avert any future misunderstanding between our governments ; and, so convinced was I of his sincerity, that, although my success was more than doubted by all about me, I sent a written document by my first lieutenant, stipulating for his consent in toto to my wishes relative to the disputed article of the treaty, and an engagement on his part not to exert the undoubted right of a sovereign power against a British subject, without due notice to our Consul, and satisfactory reasons to the government; and this document he duly signed without comment, at the very instant of departure. I much regret that I had not an opportunity of paying him my last adieus, after his very decided courtesy towards me.
Amongst the improvements, and one of the greatest importance to the future welfare of Oahu, or of these islands generally, I must not omit to mention with the warmest approbation the school for the children of mixed parents, where they are instructed not only in all the branches of British charity education, but also in the English language. I was astonished at their proficiency. This school is supported by voluntary contributions of the white residents, and those frequenting the port, and is under the especial supervision of the ladies resident — particularly of the Consul's family.
Some of the specimens of needlework exibited to tempt our patronage were beautiful. These were the productions of children not exceeding eight years of age.
The example of these children at some future period will, it is to be hoped, materially tend to improve the society of Oahu.
In the present state of missionary thraldom they cannot much longer continue. The introduction of a clergyman, and the ordinary course of devotion, must soon supersede the present system. Such a friend to advise the king would probably cure all the heart-burnings which at present distract the community. His disposition is good, the people have ever been mild and amiable, or they would never have submitted to the yoke which galls them. The course they are at present pursuing is equally opposed to their feelings and their interests. The civilized world has from time to time been interested in their acts, by the prospect of a semibarbarous community rising into the rank of civilized society, and has extended the hand of friendship to assist in their elevation. Great Britain, France, and America, have completed treaties, and sent consuls to reside among them. But if repeated acts of outrage, fit only to be attributed to the dark ages from which they have but just emerged, continue to sully their flag, in which the British union is blended, then will they be hurled back from that footing, into the insignificance which their bad advisers and their consummate presumption will so richly merit. And should a vigorous exertion of power once be called for, then is their sun for ever set, and the flag of these islands, now so proudly but wantonly waving, may be confined to their own ports, as has been the case with San Domingo.
Possibly it is not known that the flag of these islands has our union in the upper canton, with blue, red, and white stripes three times repeated.
At Lahaina (Maui) a college is founded, of which Mr. Andrews is Principal. From specimens I have examined of their progress in engraving, (charts, and I believe those of the Sandwich Islands are in progress) their proficiency is very creditable; and from what I saw of Mr. Andrews himself, who interpreted for me at the interview with the king, I had reason to admire him.
To return to Hanalae: at the present season the anchorage is safe, but when the N.W. gales blow, a very heavy sea must tumble into the bay. I am informed that a Russian store-ship rode out the season in spite of everything. The anchorage is pretty well covered by a spit, over which there is about nine feet; but there is not sufficient space in bad weather for more than three vessels, although in the present fine season the bay is spacious.
The landing is within the mouth of a small river, which carries, for a considerable distance up, from one to three quarters of a fathom, into fresh water, and is further navigable for boats or canoes (drawing three feet) several miles.
The scenery is beautiful, and my surprise is that such a favourable situation should so long have been overlooked. The Consul possesses a tract of land on which his tenant (Kellett, an Englishman) feeds cattle, makes butter, cheese, and farms to great advantage. I am certain that our men derived more nourishment from the cattle we embarked there than from any previous diet, and contrary to the general feeling, preferred it to salt, regretting its loss. I would therefore strongly advise ships of war to sacrifice much to secure these advantages.
Our attention was now directed to a very different scene. Hitherto we had enjoyed the balmy airs of the tropics, seldom too warm, never oppressive. We were no longer to bask in sunshine, but to meet the chilling blasts from Mount St. Elias, the position of which our orders required us to fix, as well as to verify generally the principal longitudes of Vancouver.
Our progress northward was tedious and uninteresting. On the 17th August, the Starling was despatched to Port Mulgrave, to make the necessary observations for fixing the position of Mount St. Elias, which I suspected might not be seen clearly every day, and therefore might cause us detention. Our course was directed northerly, wherever she could fetch, Port Chalmers, Etches, or Wingham Island.
On the 21st, with light airs at noon, we expected to see Montague Island; but the current having driven us much to leeward of our reckoning, we determined on seeking Rose Island, or the nearest spot on which I could secure our meridian distance. About five. Rose or Middleton Island was plainly discerned, which put an end to our constant excitement by the frequent reports of land which proved to be only clouds.
At nearly dusk, breakers were observed between the point we were steering for and the ship; a breaker curled close to our lee-beam; the lead giving fifteen fathoms, previous cast forty-four; hauled off into forty-five.
It being calm we drifted during the night to the south-east, and at six the following morning anchored in twenty-one fathoms. Accompanied by Mr. Hinds, assistant-surgeon, I landed to determine the position, but drizzling rain frustrated this object, and the setting in, forbidding all further prospect for the day, compelled us to embark.
The island, which does not exceed thirty feet in height, is a very soft spongy soil, on a slaty micacious schale, intersected by quartz dykes. A few fuci, land shells adhering to ferns, and three small alca, comprised our collection. The ripples I had observed were found to arise from ledges of rock, on which as little as two fathoms was found. The tide was ascertained to sea—flood, north-east,—ebb, south-west.
Strong meanings, or rushes on the surface, intimated that we should have sufficient wind; however, before weighing I determined on trying what the bottom would afford, and succeeded in hooking three fine halibut, two of which I secured; one weighing a hundred and forty-six pounds, was given to the crew, the other divided amongst the officers.
Shortly after five we weighed with the breeze strong from the northward, and a heavy swell from the eastward ; the wind veering enabled us to shape a course for Port Etches, which we now had a prospect of reaching easily, but not before dark.
At nine we observed the aurora for the first time. The corruscations were all very brilliant, but instead of broad masses of wavy lambent light, it exhibited chiefly sharp rays shooting to the zenith, from E.N.E. to N.W. The stars clearly visible, with diminution of light.
At dawn, the snowy ranges of mountains from the termination of Montague Island as far as Cape Suckling, or in the direction of Kaye's Island, were entirely free from clouds or vapours, a sight not common in these regions, and generally a warning for bad weather. As the sun rose, our attention was anxiously directed to witness the effect of its rays on the innumerable snow-capped pinnacles, which this splendid range presented, each, even the lowest, an object of interest, compared with our late scenery. We were, however, disappointed; their obliquity, added to the faces being to the S.W., prevented the effect we anticipated. It was, however, accomplished at sunset.
Light baffling airs, with oppressively hot sun, kept teazing us until after noon, when we appeared to move but tardily towards the passage between Montague and Hinchinbrook Islands, where I was prepared to expect strong tides. About eight we had doubled the Cape, and a gig was sent to examine the coast; but shoal water, contrary to Vancouver's idea, rendered it necessary to anchor in seventeen fathoms. The tide ran at the rate of three knots, but not sufficiently strong to cause me any uneasiness. The boat returned without information; we therefore remained quiet for the night. Several fine fish were caught.
At four we weighed, and followed the gig sent ahead to point out the entrance to the port. Worked in against a fresh N.l'l breeze, soundings on both sides giving twenty-five, thirty, and forty fathoms, close in at our tacking position, almost touching the rocks.
About nine we anchored at the mouth of the small entrance to the inner harbour, in seven fathoms; pretty nearly in the position mentioned by Vancouver.
The weather immediately became threatening, blew very hard, brought one anchor home, and compelled us to let go the second.
We were visited by the Russian residents, who betrayed some little alarm at our arrival, and at one time I thought would have retired. The stay of the principal was short, but he returned after we anchored, enveloped in his waterproof cloak, formed of the small intestines of the seal, and endeavoured to persuade us to enter the inner harbour. This I certainly would have done, had I purposed remaining long. The day continued pouring with rain, debarring any kind of occupation or amusement.
The day following the wind subsided, but continued from the same quarter, with frequent showers. I called on the Russian resident, who evidently had made some preparation to receive me, so far as hot water and a clean table-cloth were concerned, but the prevailing odour was that of seal-oil. He regretted that he had nothing to present to me but a tanned skin dress, embroidered by the natives of the Aleutian islands, precisely similar to those which we obtained at Avateha, and one or two baskets. As I was well aware of the exact meaning of this attention, I did not hesitate in receiving it, particularly as I had brought with me presents of tea, sugar, and other comforts.
He then took me through the fish and oil establishment, which was inches deep in hardened filth and seal-oil; and thence to the room containing peltry. I was much disappointed at the quality of the furs. They comprised sea-otter, sable, rat, squirrel, fox, wolf, bear, seal, and beaver, very large and heavy. The only desirable skins were those of the sea-otter and sable, and they were not first-rate. As it is strictly forbidden to sell anything, and our visit bound us in honour not to permit anything of the sort, I felt little inclination to remain in this valuable repository.
This establishment of the Imperial Russian Fur Company consists of the official resident, eight Russians, and fifty Aleutian and other allies. The houses are included in a substantial wooden quadrangle, furnished at its sea angles with two octagonal turrets, capped in the old English style, and pierced with loop-holes and ports; the summits of the lines are armed with spikes of wood. It is calculated to sustain a tolerable siege, under determined hands. The sleeping apartments, or "'tween decks," as we should term them, are desperately filthy. The whole range is warmed by Dutch-ovens, and the sides being eighteen inches in thickness, are well-calculated to withstand the cold, as well as to defy musketry.
The native allies, who live in huts outside, are filthier than any Esquimaux; arising, doubtless, from their life of inactivity, resulting from doubtful dependence. On my return to the ship, I found that a boat-load of salmon had been sent, which afforded the crew a fresh meal, of a pound and a half of salmon per man.
A survey of the port was effected, malgré the unfavourable state of the weather, and our astronomical and magnetic observations were secured. I had completed my observations at a small island which I had selected for a station, but was at a loss for a mark, and had directed a tree near me, which was deprived of bark, to be felled for this purpose. I had barely time to arrest the sacrilegious order on perceiving letters on its sides, and easily traced
PORT ETCHES. SHIP KING GEORGE.
NATH. PORTLOCK, COMMR.
JULY 22, 1787.
On my return on board, I found in Mavor's edition of Portlock and Dixon's Voyage, Portlock notices having trimmed and marked a tree on Garden island in this manner.
At present the island is covered with pine trees: we could not trace any remains of plants differing from those on the nearest land. The surface of the Garden must have been very small, nor did the grass and mould in any part exceed six inches in depth.
On the side of the bay within, where he had his tents, a species of wild grain was noticed, and a large spot free from trees. It was gratifying, however, thus to meet some token of our adventurous countrymen, even in such an inhospitable clime; a sensation only to be appreciated by wanderers like ourselves.
We found strawberries, whortleberries, blaeberries (arbutus), pigeonberries, and a small cranberry, in tolerable profusion, without going in search of them. On Wednesday, the 30th August, we prepared for sea, and took on board spars and firewood. I paid my final visit to the Resident, leaving him a further supply of comforts, for which he evinced much gratitude.
About two we weighed and beat out, the fort saluting as we passed.
Port Etches might furnish a most complete harbour, if vessels frequented these regions, or a station should ever be required in so high a latitude. The currents, however, between it and Montague Island, render it difficult of approach in light winds, and the Russian informed me that many sunken rocks lie off Cape Hinchinbroke. But as they designate a rock over which there may be ten or fifteen fathoms, a sunken rock, they probably allude to danger to ground tackle.
It was on one of these ledges that Ave anchored in seventeen fathoms, and on tripping had twelve before clearing the rocks.
The result of our observations at this port gives Vancouver in error nearly to the amount which he ascribes to Cook.
Finding ourselves becalmed near the flat island mentioned by Vancouver, and wishing to verify its position, I started in my gig for this purpose, but had not proceeded far when a light favourable air brought me back: all sail was crowded for Cape Hammond, which was rounded at midnight.
I had been running my eye over Vancouver, and noticed the difficulty he described in getting round this cape, by reason of an adverse current; otherwise I had fully intended to anchor within Wingham Island, and endeavour to intersect Mount St. Elias from thence, as well as rectify the errors in that neighbourhood. But time was now too precious, and the ensuing morn proved that my determination had been judicious, as we had gloomy weather, no sun, light wind, and could scarcely stem the current.
All our transit bearings and other observations, plainly indicated the charts to be erroneous about this region. A river appears to flow near Cape Suckling, which has not been noticed.
Our attention was suddenly attracted by the very peculiar outline of ridge in profile, which one of our draughtsmen was sketching, apparently toothed. On examining it closely with a telescope, I found, that although the surface presented to the naked eye a comparatively even outline, that it was actually one mass of small four-sided truncated pyramids, resembling salt-water mud which has been exposed several days to the rays of a tropical sun, (as in tropical salt marshes,) or an immense collection of huts.
For some time we were lost in conjecture, probably from the dark ash colour. But our attention being drawn to nearer objects, and the sun lending his aid, we found the whole slope, from ridge to base, similarly composed; and as the rays played on those near the beach, the brilliant illumination distinctly showed them to be ice. We were divided between admiration and astonishment. What cause would produce those special forms? If one could fancy himself perched on an eminence, about five hundred feet above a city of snow-white pyramidal houses, with smoke-coloured flat roofs covering many square miles of surface, and rising ridge above ridge in steps, he might form some faint idea of this beautiful freak of nature.
APPEARANCE OF ICE.
Kaye's Island, viewed from the eastward, presents the appearance of two islands. The southern is a high table-rock, free from trees or vegetation, and of a whitish hue; the other is moderately high land for this region, with three bare peaks; its lower region being well-wooded.
Wingham Island, which can be seen to nearly its whole length between Cape Suckling and Point Le Mesurier, (the north part of Kaye's Island,) is moderately elevated, rising in three hummocks, which are bare on their summits. The southern at a distance, owing to the lowness of the neck, appears separated. The whole is well clothed with trees.
In one direction from the southward, Cape Suckling exhibits on its bower profile, the brow, nose, and lips of a man. It is a low neck, stretching out from a mountainous isolated ridge, which terminates about three miles from it easterly, where the flats of the ice pyramids just alluded to terminate. Apparently the river or opening near Cape Suckling flows round its base. There is little doubt but that we may attribute the current to this outlet, arising probably from the melting of the snow. We had less strength of current after passing this position. Immense piles of drift-wood were noticed on each side of the opening, but none elsewhere. Floating-trees of considerable magnitude were numerous, and one sufficiently interesting to cause its admeasurement by sextant, which afforded two hundred feet as its probable length. Current northerly. Water, within three miles of the land, whitish, showing a distinct division, doubtless snow-water and mud.
We continued to be teazed with light variable airs and strong currents, and on Monday, the 4th September, finding the wind failing, I determined on keeping in small water, so as to be able to anchor. Mount St. Elias being then within fair distance. About eight we anchored in fifty fathoms, mud; the day beautifully fine, horizon well defined, and our position as perfect as could be wished for our observations, all of which were obtained, and satisfactory.
The current was found to set one mile and a half per hour west, varying but slightly in force, and not at all in direction. At this position, not a single drift tree was noticed. We were within the white water about two miles, which I am now satisfied flows from the ice. But why it preserves its uniformity of strength and direction, is yet a problem to be solved.
On the morning following it was cloudy, with rain, and the breeze springing up compelled us to trip. Towards the evening it cleared up, and we were treated with a most splendid picture of St. Elias and all the neighbouring peaks, in full beauty, not a vapour near them. Each range is in itself an object worthy of the pencil, but with the stupendous, proud St. Elias towering above all, they dwindled into mere hillocks, or into a most splendid base on which to place his saintship.
Although Vancouver describes St. Elias as "in
Mount St. Elias.
London, Henry Colburn, Great Marlbro' St. 1843.
regions of eternal snow," yet his edges, to the very summit, present a few black wrinkles, and the depth of snow does not, even in the drifts, appear to be very deep.
My anxiety to reach Point Riou and obtain observations on it, induced me to hold on by the land. Indeed there was no other chance of overcoming the current. The coast presents so little to recognise in Vancouver's chart, that I despair of doing more than fixing the position of Mount St. Elias, which, if Kellett has been successful in seeing from Port Mulgrave, will be now secure.
Towards noon the breeze favoured us sufficiently to reach into Icy Bay, very aptly so named, as Vancouver's Point Riou must have dissolved, as well as the small island also mentioned, and on which I had long set my heart as one of my principal positions. At noon we tacked in ten fathoms, mud, having passed through a quantity of small ice, all of a soft nature. The whole of this bay, and the valley above it, was now found to be composed of (apparently) snow ice, about thirty feet in height at the water cliff, and probably based on a low muddy beach; the water for some distance in contact not even showing a ripple; which, it occurred to me, arose from being charged with floating vegetable matter, probably fine bark, &c.
The small bergs or reft masses of ice, forming the cliffy outlines of the bay, were veined and variegated by mud streaks like marble, and where they had been exposed to the sea, were excavated into arches, &c., similar to some of our chalk formations. The base of the point, named by Vancouver Point Riou, probably remains; but being free, for some distance, of the greater bergs, it presented only a low sand or muddy spit, with ragged dirty-coloured ice grounded. No island could be traced, and our interest was too deeply excited in seeking for it, to overlook such a desirable object.
On our inshore tack we had five fathoms and three quarters, and were therefore quite close enough to make certain of our remarks, short of actual contact, which the favourable breeze would not admit of without some more important results.
We edged along, keeping within a mile and a half of the shore, carrying from ten to fifteen fathoms, until night, when we bore away to cross Beering's Bay, and rejoin our consort in Port Mulgrave.
I perceive in Vancouver, (vol. iii. p. 204,) twenty-three fathoms was his nearest approach, and within one league. He also terms it " low, well-wooded, with a small detached islet, a little to the westward." Also, " Eastward from the steep cliffs that terminate this bay, and from whence the ice descends into the sea." It is very probable there has been a misreading of his manuscript, or that severer weather had covered his trees with ice, for we saw none, and that portion of the coast was examined with his voyage constantly before me, and the discrepancies discussed with our spy-glasses on the objects.
Our observations and speculations, on the motion of the ice now before us, led us to suspect that the whole of the lower body is subject to slide, and that the whole of the substratum, as frequently found within the Arctic Circle, is a slippery mud. I am satisfied that this is the case in Icy Bay, as one berg, which was well up on the shore, moved off to seaward; grounding again near what I took for Point Riou.
This leads me back to our observations on the mathematical forms observed on the 3rd, after passing Bingham Island, and I perceive that Vancouver notices not only the ice, but (at p. 209, 210, vol. iii.) attempts to account for its formation, remarking that the ice observed (before reaching Point Riou and to the southward) was not so clean, "most of them appearing to be dirty." How came they so?
If the dark, "dirty" ice had been near the beach, it could readily be accounted for, by having been agitated with the beach mud, and forced up by gales. But the reverse is the fact. The darker ice was on the high ridges, and the bright near the sea. Only the theory of a slip would allow of its moving down the inclined plane without disturbing its mathematical arrangement. Vancouver's visit occurred in the latter end of June, ours in the early part of September.
In Icy Bay, the apparently descending ice from the mountains to the base was in irregular, broken masses, tumbling in confusion, similar to ice forced in upon the beach by gales of Mind. They were doubtless detached masses from the mountains. But near Cape Suckling the inclination of the steps was very slight, and apparently had subsided perpendicularly for many miles in gradation.
The forms observed will best be illustrated by the sketch. (Vide plate and woodcut.)
By night we had a confirmed fair wind, a relief of no small moment bodily, as well as mentally, for anxiety most decidedly deadens the faculties; and I was anything but easy respecting the Starling, as from Kellett's sanguine temperament he might think our protracted absence imported accident, and starting to seek us, might miss us for some time.
On the morning of the 7th we had sighted the land near Cape Phipps, and found that we had been driven much to the westward by the current. Fortunately I was prepared for this, and hauled up until I brought Mount Fairweather over Cape Turner, which the chart showed to be a good leading mark (or N. 88° E.) for the entrance.
We were even in doubt on opening the mouth of the port, which appeared like a cluster of islands. However, I knew, if she was within, that a gun would soon bring some signal in return, and Mas not deceived, as the smoke of the Starling's reply soon curled over the points. Being sure of our mark, we bore up for the anchorage, passing from soundings at sixty fathoms suddenly into thirteen and eight, and as suddenly deepening again to forty, until reaching the ledge off Cape Turner, when it exceeded the length of our handlines.
The observations in Vancouver were sufficient to have taken us in, but we picked up Kellett off Cape Turner, and instantly availed ourselves of his later examination of the port. We took up our berth close round the low gravelly point of the island, in thirteen fathoms, within three hundred yards of the beach.
The Starling had only arrived three days before us, having been, like ourselves, delayed nine days by currents and baffling winds. The day was sufficiently fine to enable me to secure all the requisite observations for latitude, time, astronomical bearings, and altitudes of St. Elias and Fairweather, as well as magnetic details.
The principal chief of this tribe, Anoutchy, paid his visit of ceremony, accompanied by his lady. Better specimens of the improved state of the Indians I have not seen. Both were clean, and well-dressed; the chief by the aid of an old coat and trowsers bestowed on him by Kellett; and his lady in a dark-coloured cotton gown with blue and scarlet cloak, á la robe, over all. He had assumed the name of Iwan Iwatsky, probably in compliment to one of the Russian traders, who frequently visit this port.
Their manners were good, even in some degree polished; and although not particularly well-bred at table, they were evidently not unacquainted with the use of knife, fork, and plate.
It was a very gratifying sight to observe such a change amongst such a set as we found them associated with, even comparing them with their compeers (as chiefs).
A NATIVE CHIEF OF PORT MULGRAVE.
Kellett acquainted me that this chief possessed very high notions of territorial right, and had thrown difficulties in the way of wooding and watering, which he was glad that our presence would remove.
Having given him a few presents, and intimated my intention of adding to them at my departure, he was well pleased, and retired to the shore.
On the first arrival of the Starling, but few canoes had appeared; these nearly doubled daily, until his position called for a vigilance which was unpleasant, and made them comparatively prisoners.
Our presents having allayed every unpleasant feeling, the utmost security was felt, so as to admit of full range to sportsmen and naturalists.
One peculiarity which I noticed in this tribe, is the manner in which they receive presents—as a due, not as a gift; and consequently no return is made for civility. They have probably had a lesson from their friends the fur-dealers, whose maxim is "nothing for nothing." Excepting in traffic, at which they are very keen, nothing could be obtained.
Fish, halibut and salmon of two kinds, were abundant and moderate, of which the crews purchased and cured great quantities. Game very scarce; one goose and a small blue-winged duck were all the birds that were brought for sale. The remains of Russian establishments were observed; a blockhouse perched on a cliff on the east side; and on the low point, where our astronomical observations were taken, the ruins of another; also a staff, with a vane and cross over a grave.
Strawberry plants were very numerous, but the ladies had cleared them of fruit, and were busied during the day procuring supplies of these and other berries from the main, which, with salmon, appear to constitute their chief food.
Although many seal-skins were noticed, I did not observe this or animal food amongst them. Deer is said to abound, but on asking for it, they pointed to and named Sitka (in Norfolk Sound) and Nootka. Their implements of chase are far inferior to those in use amongst the Esquimaux or Aleutians.
WOMAN WITH MOUTH-PIECE.
The men are wretchedly clothed, in mats woven with the inner bark of the cypress, which is tough, flexible, and very soft. The women are very similar to the Esquimaux, differing however in the mouth-ornament, which is here worn in an aperture under the lower lip. It is of wood, and retains its place by the elasticity of the flesh contracting in the groove, substituting larger ornaments as they grow up, or as the aperture elongates. They are as filthy as such tribes usually are, beyond description, and use vermillion, and any paint they can get. I must, however, except the chief's lady and daughters, as not wearing these ornaments, or paint, and exhibiting a dislike to it. The latter I had not the pleasure of seeing, but I am told one is very pretty,—I suppose we may add, "for the tribe."
On the 8th October, after completing our astronomical observations, and swinging the ship for local attraction, we took leave of our friends, and with great difficulty got up our anchor, owing to the tough clay in which it had hooked. Light airs prevented our getting out, although towed by the canoes as well as our own boats; I therefore turned her head to her old anchorage for the night. The chief and his lady, who had come to secure the assistance of their tribe, as soon as they perceived my determination, were quite delighted,—the only time I had seen them relax their features,—and haranguing the canoes, particularly her ladyship, they not only increased in numbers, but also in efforts, which had they applied earlier, we should have gained an offing. We were very soon at anchor. I think they gained a saw and hatchet for this manoeuvre. They well knew every hour of delay would enrich them.About six the following morning a breeze enabled us to get out. We were visited by the greater part of the canoes; but the chief and his lady, who had taken tea with us, and finished by asking for a little warm gin and water, were probably too sleepy to pay us a visit at this early hour.
About nine the breeze giving us too great a velocity for the canoes, and their saleable articles being expended, one by one they gradually dropped off and left us to pursue our course. We found some difficulty in gaining a fair offing, and stood in until the last moment of daylight, in order to ensure a long tack after eight p.m.
At half-past seven I left the deck, after the deep sea cast was given "no bottom;" but I was not quite satisfied that I ought to credit it. However, as I had great objections to discuss the matter with the mate in charge of the watch, I thought possibly that the next cast he would be more attentive. I had hardly been seated in my cabin five minutes, when breakers ahead and under the lee were reported, and the first lieutenant being on deck, relieved him from charge, and prepared for putting her about. On reaching the deck, I found her behaving well, and by timely humouring with the helm, she was safely stayed. After the sails were full, and with the wind abeam, the influence of the roller swell, within which we were, was such that she barely reached out. The least depth we found after she was tacked, and had gone several times her length, was seven fathoms, sand. The swell was very high, not cresting outside of us, but roaring fiercely within, where all was one sheet of foam.
I am inclined to think this must have been an off-shore shoal; as at the time I quitted the deck no land could be seen within three miles of us. I did not make any signals until we reached forty fathoms, (fearing to draw Starling into danger,) when lights were shown, a blue light burned, and a gun fired. She did not perceive or did not answer, and my anxiety during the night was great. But trusting to the tried caution of Kellett, I felt easier for the Starling than if she had been in other hands.
During the night the wind and sea increased much, making her plunge heavily, but before daylight the weather had moderated, and the wind shifting to the westward, enabled us to crowd canvass for Norfolk Sound.